Home Forums General General 10mm Skirmish?

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  • #72260
    shelldrake
    Participant

    I am currently in bed with the man flu and would love to be able to play a solo game to help pass the time/take my mind off my lungs not working.

    I am seriously looking at the tray with legs in front of me as a wargames table using 10mm figures.

    The area I could use is roughly 33 cm x 54 cm, and I could make a terrain base using foam card in sit inside the surface area, and it seems buildings aren’t a problem to buy.

    I think there would be enough room to have two or three small units per side in this area

    My only concerns are:

    a) what period to experiment with my idea. I like many historical periods, and picking one I want to go with isn’t easy. I am seriously tempted to go with Pendraken’s Falklands war range, although any Black powder to modern period is very tempting.

    b) not sure what to base the figures on – I want something that is easy to pick up without having to use the actual miniature for picking them up to move them around, but also nothing that is so big it takes up a lot of room or makes them too tall for any scenery.

     

    Has anyone else done any 10mm skirmish gaming and as any tips they can share?

    #72264
    Guy Farrish
    Participant

    Haven’t yet done 10mm skirmish – supposedly working on it but have done 6mm – see 6mm Skirmish Basing

    I used self cut plastic card in this (on a 2’x2′ board) version but have since transferred to Michael’s idea of small tiddlywinks – dirt cheap on ebay. (not sure they’ll get there before you recover from your bubonic plague though – maybe best go with card for now, stick down with copydex and rebase later!

     

    Get well soon!

     

    #72265
    Mike
    Keymaster

    b) not sure what to base the figures on – I want something that is easy to pick up without having to use the actual miniature for picking them up to move them around, but also nothing that is so big it takes up a lot of room or makes them too tall for any scenery.

    I would suggest something square and with sheer edges.
    I use round bases, which are harder to pick up as you can’t jam corners into your digits and with the edges being bevelled they do not have much purchase area.

    However I am totes fine with simply picking them up by the figure, what are you concerns around this?

    #72266
    shelldrake
    Participant

    I would suggest something square and with sheer edges. I use round bases, which are harder to pick up as you can’t jam corners into your digits and with the edges being bevelled they do not have much purchase area. However I am totes fine with simply picking them up by the figure, what are you concerns around this?

    I am worried that the paint will come off despite using a varnish, but I suppose if I am careful, it wouldn’t matter too much.

    #72267
    shelldrake
    Participant

    Haven’t yet done 10mm skirmish – supposedly working on it but have done 6mm – see 6mm Skirmish Basing I used self cut plastic card in this (on a 2’x2′ board) version but have since transferred to Michael’s idea of small tiddlywinks – dirt cheap on ebay. (not sure they’ll get there before you recover from your bubonic plague though – maybe best go with card for now, stick down with copydex and rebase later! Get well soon!

    I have some tiddly winks lying around that I can try – cheers

    #72272
    Steve Johnson
    Participant

    I have some figures in process for Lion Rampant etc. I have one foot figure on a tiddlywink base, two on a 1p coin and 3 on a 2p coin. For cavalry I can’t remember, but I think the smallest base was a 2p coin. This works for me and doesn’t seem too fiddly at all. Hope this helps?

    #72306

    You can pick up enough 10mm troops for skirmish forces for multiple periods pretty cheaply.  I have modern, ww2 and Napoleonic skirmish forces for when sick or cannot be bothered with a big game.

    #72314
    shelldrake
    Participant

    You can pick up enough 10mm troops for skirmish forces for multiple periods pretty cheaply. I have modern, ww2 and Napoleonic skirmish forces for when sick or cannot be bothered with a big game.

    Having a look at what figures are on the market, I could easily buy both sides with extras for the price of a WW2 infantry section, which would get me only one side of the solo battle.

    I like the way you think

    #72319
    irishserb
    Participant

    I haven’t done 10mm, but for 6mm, I used styrene tile sheet from Evergreen.  I picked a size that seemed to fit the figs, maybe 3/16 or 1/4 inch  squares, and simply snapped them at the tile seams to make little square bases.  The plastic was .04 inches thick, which doesn’t give a lot to grab hold of.  I was fine with simply grasping the figures, so thickness of base with respect to handling wasn’t a concern.  I would guess that 5/16 inch or a touch larger squares would work similarly for 10mm figs.  Best of luck with your project

    #72325
    shelldrake
    Participant

    A couple of photos using tiddlywinks and some WW1 pendraken figures I had lying around.

    I put together a late war section with 1 lewis gun (nearest one in the photos) and 9 riflemen. I also have a tank. Figures were placed on the tiddlywinks, which seems like the perfect size.

    I would probably use something else for cavalry and bigger weapons.

    The photos show the actual tray/playing area I am wanting to use.  If I play setting up a game left to right I will be able to use one section/group per side and have room to manoeuvre. If I set up front and rear, I could put a couple of units per side for a bigger game.

     

     

    Given the low number of figures needed to get a game going, I might order a variety of different periods to try out.

    #72327
    shelldrake
    Participant

    I have some figures in process for Lion Rampant etc. I have one foot figure on a tiddlywink base, two on a 1p coin and 3 on a 2p coin. For cavalry I can’t remember, but I think the smallest base was a 2p coin. This works for me and doesn’t seem too fiddly at all. Hope this helps?

    Tiddlywinks seem good. Not knowing what size a 1p etc coin is (being in Australia), it is hard to imagine what size they are. My country ditched their 1 and 2 cent pieces ages ago, so I can’t even give them a try.

    #72328
    shelldrake
    Participant

    Oh my… I have just found 10mm zombies, dinosaurs, alien greys, bugs…

    • This reply was modified 3 years, 12 months ago by shelldrake. Reason: changes a o to a 0
    #72333
    kyoteblue
    Participant

    Just Jack has done 10mm skirmish and posted AAR here and on his blog. I recommend reading them.

    #72539
    Shaun Travers
    Participant

    I concur with Kyote – have a look at what just Jack has done with 10mm skirmish.  He normally plays on 2’x2′.  I have done skirmish games with 20mm on 2’x2′ and it works fine.  Possibly measure in centimetres rather than inches and use a 1’x1′ board with 10mm and it should be just fine!

    #72540
    Altius
    Participant

    I remember playing a 10mm skirmish campaign set in WWII North Africa years ago that was a lot of fun. We used full-sized tables, though, rather than scaling it down. Lots of long range shooting in that one.

    Where there is fire, we will carry gasoline

    #72542
    shelldrake
    Participant

    I remember playing a 10mm skirmish campaign set in WWII North Africa years ago that was a lot of fun. We used full-sized tables, though, rather than scaling it down. Lots of long range shooting in that one.

    That sounds like a lot of fun – how many troops were used for the games?

     

     

    #72544
    Altius
    Participant

    It was a fairly low number. About 10-20 figures per side for each game. The premise of the campaign was that each player was a member of a single squad in Tunisia and you had one figure to control. Once he was dead, you were out. I made it about halfway through the campaign before I made a really dumb mistake and got my man killed. It was fun.

    Where there is fire, we will carry gasoline

    #72741
    shelldrake
    Participant

    I have started making the terrain boards for my tray skirmish.

     

    I am using foam card/ board, and instead of making one single board, I have made two, with the intention of making other boards that can be swapped out, such as a river board.

    I put masking tape round the edges as I have given them a black undercoat of spray paint and didn’t want the foam to melt.

    They are drying as I type, and hopefully tomorrow I will flock them.

    I still haven’t mad emy mind up as to the figures I want for the game, but I did find a handful of sample 10mm figures I had lying around, and some Peter Pig 15mm figures, and I am seriously leaning towards getting the Peter Pig miniatures instead, as they are smaller than the majority of my 15mm figures, and a bit larger than the 10mm.

    If I do go ahead with the Peter Pig miniatures I will probably get some WW2, Wild West, AWI or Modern Africa.

     

     

     

    #72744
    Mike
    Keymaster

    This may be too late, but I avoided the melting issue with THIS method.

    #72843
    shelldrake
    Participant

    Cheers. I have seen some of these canvas things in some cheap shops in my area, and have been tempted to try them too.

    As you thought, it was a bit late, but well worth keeping in mind for a later date.

    I have flocked my bases and now about to make some modular roads for the tray now. I will post some more photos once they terrain bases are fully dried.

    #72847
    shelldrake
    Participant

    Here are some photos of work in progress.

    I have cut out the roads for the tray board, and now I will cover them with fine sand and paint them to make them look more like a country road type of thing that will fit in for different game settings.

    The road is in three pieces – one long straight, and two angled pieces. that way I can move them around to make a different appearance for each game. I have plenty of the black stuff I used, so I can make many different road options if I desire.

    I will need to make some scenery pieces to fill the gaps you can see in the photo so that there aren’t any gaping holes in the fence/hedge lines. Some trees and corner peices to match the roads.

    and with a Russian tank (15mm scale) to give an indication of the size for the playing area:

     

    All games played on this tray are intended to be scenario driven. It might be a mission to take out an MG pit, to ambush a tank or a clearing patrol. Forces could be a simple anti-tank team with a panzerschrek for example or a section in support of an MG and they need to hold off the attackers.

    I am happy with the work done so far, and with some trees and extra bits of scenery, I think it will work well.

    #77772
    shelldrake
    Participant

    Update: the removeable terrain boards show above warped a bit and wont lie flat in the tray anymore, so back to the drawing board for that particular tray.

    In the mean time I purchased a smaller MDF tray, painted the bottom and flocked it. It is a bit small for 15mm games at squad/section level, but I think it would work for 10mm well enough.

    MDF tray being prepped for painting

    Painted with matt black.

    Flock applied and the tape removed

    Added some scenery and figures to test if it worked

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    The following are shots of a WW2 game in the making. Figures are Peter Pig, buildings are Red Vectors sold through Minibits, the trees are something cheap I based, and the hay stack is a work in progress that I scratch built:

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    As you can see, the second tray is too small for 20 figures per side in 15mm, as the game would start up in close contact with each other.

    The first tray measured 53cm x 32.5 cm, whereas the second one is 37.5 cm x 27.5 cm.  The 10mm figures fit ok on the smaller tray, so I may end up going with the 10mm for the small tray.

    I am thinking of making a tray myself to get the size I think will work, but I am not much of a carpenter, so might have to think long and hard about that idea.

    • This reply was modified 3 years, 9 months ago by shelldrake.
    • This reply was modified 3 years, 9 months ago by shelldrake.
    #77813
    Ivan Sorensen
    Participant

    The real space savings in 10mm comes in the tanks. Put a 10mm tank next to a 15mm tank and it’s quite remarkable really.

    They’re also substantially cheaper and skirmish gamers tend to want one of everything 🙂

    Nordic Weasel Games
    https://www.wargamevault.com/browse/pub/5701/Nordic-Weasel-Games?src=browse5701

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