10mm WFB

[Angel Barracks]

So.

I roped Samantha into some wargaming and I have decided to carry on my OSR vibe with WFB.

I have ordered:

Some 10mm dark elves from Pendraken.
I also ordered some 10mm fantasy humans from them.

Some trees from ebay.
A big static grass mat from a model train shop and some loose static grass of the same colour.
I am waiting to get an invoice for 27 self adhesive cork floor tiles so I can make the gaming surface.

Then last night I noticed that Pendraken do some lovely historicals that are even better for my Empire themed army so bought a shed load of those too.

Once the figures arrive I shall set about working out how best to individually base them and get the bases on order and then start the painting.

I will then of course need a few buildings which I will probably get from Battlescale.

This is exciting but expensive, no idea how you regular gamers manage so many things at once…

Updates to follow.

[Shaun Travers]

“no idea how you regular gamers manage so many things at once…”

Years of practice 🙂

[Geof Downton]

Angel Barracks wrote:

no idea how you regular gamers manage so many things at once…

Whilst I couldn’t possibly disagree with Shaun, I’d like to propose as a possibility, “Liberal interpretation of the definition of ‘manage'”…

One who puts on his armour should not boast like one who takes it off.
Ahab, King of Israel; 1 Kings 20:11

[Shaun Travers]

lol and agree.  “Manage” as a concept is definitely in the mind of the beholder!

[Angel Barracks]

Ha, whilst I wait for the goodies.

Prototype unit cards:

[Angel Barracks]

ugh they should be 9pts..

[ian pillay]

looking forward to see how this project develops.

I think you could get away with some being single based and some being multi based. Would save time on setting up units.

 

Tally-Ho! Check out my blog at…..
http://steelcitywargaming.wordpress.com/

[Mr. Average]

I cannot but applaud your use of 3E Warhammer – it is the last edition to predate the Super Kill-Guy and Army List Or Nothing fetish that has dominated ever since. You really can start from first principles and cook up whatever army you want. And to someone who cut his teeth in gaming circa 1985, it’s really not as complicated as people make it out to be.

[Logain]

Fun project! Ian’s got it right, sounds like a good project for 1-2-3 basing.

I find the only way my projects progress is with a lack sleep.

[Angel Barracks]

ian pillay wrote:

I think you could get away with some being single based and some being multi based. Would save time on setting up units.

I have considered this, I still may.

Mr. Average wrote:

And to someone who cut his teeth in gaming circa 1985, it’s really not as complicated as people make it out to be.

I don’t find any of it difficult per se, what I will say is that the rules and mechanics are pretty clear and easy to follow, it is just that there are a lot of them…

[Angel Barracks]

Making some OSR hills….

Not polystyrene ceiling tiles though..

😀

[Mr. Average]

You’re definitely making me want to get back to my 6mm WFB set.

[ian pillay]

Mr Average that is really cool. Or as the young ‘uns  at work would say, “sick that is, innit”

 

Tally-Ho! Check out my blog at…..
http://steelcitywargaming.wordpress.com/

[Angel Barracks]

Was going to flock the sides, but I think I wont as this is more OSR and it helps break up the monotony..

 

[Angel Barracks]

hmmmmmm 10mm or 6mm buildings?

I am thinking 6mm as I want a more abstract version of a BUA rather than a ‘realistic’ one, anyone got images of 6mm vs 10mm buildings with 10mm models?

[Angel Barracks]

Also, what sort of base size can I get away with for a single 10mm figure, are they likely to fit on 10mm x 10mm squares?

[Guy Farrish]

Okay, I know I am thick, and I m prepared to self administer a kick -but: OSR?

PS Lovely table and hills

6mm buildings and 10mm figs – no pics but I’ve seen it done, done it and it works very well for me.

In fact it usually gives a more ‘realistic’ footprint than 10mm buildings.

[Mike]

Old
School
Renaissance

[Rhoderic]

Or Old School Revival. Both definitions are in use, and interchangeable.

I presume the OSR part of this project is more about the vintage WFB ruleset and the aesthetic of the terrain, than the choice of 10mm as a fantasy gaming scale.

[Guy Farrish]

Thanks both – I’ll let you fight it out over the details!

Old School I’d heard of – the R (whatever it stands for) was a new one on me.

(I’m of an age when the concept of Warhammer being Old School makes me raise an eyebrow if not shake my head)

[Steve Johnson]

Well Guy, I had no idea what OSR meant either, so thanks for asking! As for buildings, 6mm works better to give an impression of a BUA. Leven Minatures do a great range at a good price, with plenty to choose from to get the look you want.

As for basing individual 10mm figures, I would say it’s rather tricky and would recommend say 4 figures per 20mm or 25mm square base, then use markers or small die to record casualties. Even on sabot bases they would move too easily singly based and risk falling over etc, or maybe that’s just me being clumsy!

[Mike]

WFB requires individual basing for individual casualty removal and this will alter your frontage, plus you can change formation which requires figures to move about individually, plus I want to!

 

So pffft.

However as you are here Steve….

Do you reckon a single  Pendraken figure will fit on a 10mm x 10mm base?

 

 

[Steve Johnson]

I’ll have to check Mike and get back to you. Some of the sculpts are chunkier than others, but generally speaking they’re all pretty similar. I’ll try and take some ‘photos of suitable miniatures on 10mm square bases all ranked up.

[Mr. Average]

I find 10mm is about right for my 6mm figures.  I suspect 12mm might be better for your “Large Scale” set.  I strongly recommend a heavy duty magnet base, though, and steel movement trays.  You’ll find them most efficacious.

Also, re: buildings, you might look at paper terrain to get off the ground and try some various scales.  The input is low and will let you see which sizes best suit your desired effect.

[Deleted User]

Did you stick the flock mat to a board or just laid it on the table?

Kallistra also carries a line fo 12mm minis, its grown since the last time I checked. You can see some pics for their minis with 12mm buildings.

https://www.kallistra.co.uk/?page=15

I would have gone with 6mm buildings too, not sure how it’ll look since they varie so much by manufacturers. Pictures of 10mm minis with 6mm buildings at bottom

http://kealios.blogspot.com/2015/11/10mm-or-6mm-terrain-for-warmaster.html

This reminds me, Warmaster is 10mm. You could potentially use official GW minis, if you have a small fortune stashed away somewhere.

From experience, any minis will fit nicely on a base equal to or greater than its scale. I’ve based 10mm/12mm on round 12mm base before and it works fine. Personally I’d base 4 minis on a 20mm base and keep all the rules measurements. Heroes probably be single if on beast, foot heroes will have retainers. It’ll look more epic and ranges look more realistic, but that’s just me.

[Angel Barracks]

Ohh these are 10mm bases, looks like they may be just the ticket..

 

[Mike Headden]

10mm figures with 6mm buildings. My bete noir!

“Sire, why are we sending in the Guard to wrestle possession of some Wendy Houses from the enemy?” 🙂

If 6mm is all that’s available then needs must when the devil drives but for me figures and scenery in scale is best.

If you can look at a dozen figures and see a battalion surely you can look at a house and see a village?

There are 100 types of people in the world, those who understand binary and those who can work from incomplete data

[Guy Farrish]

If you can accept a c1:160 height scale for your figures works with a ground scale between say 1:400 and 1:4,000 depending on your rules, why is the gap between c1:160 and c1:300 such a deal breaker?

After all – if your 10mm/6ft tall soldier falls over, he suddenly becomes between 13ft and 130ft long!

Makes your building a bit of an odd shape whichever way you look at it.

I had a bit of wobble with the idea at first but as long as I don’t get figures towering over houses I generally don’t even notice five minutes into a game.

 

[Darkest Star Games]

I know the dudes over at The Wargaming Company use 6mm buildings with their 10mm Nappies and they work quite well.

"I saw this in a cartoon once, but I'm pretty sure I can do it..."

[Angel Barracks]

My hills have warped.

🙁

[Andrew Beasley]

Ouch.

You could try painting / glueing the back and weighing them down while drying…

[Steve Johnson]

Yep, try painting the back and weighting them at the same time to try and get rid of the bending.

Boring ‘fact’ alert:

• If the hills are made of foam of any sort, when it is cut from blocks or even when stored, it tends to have a bend to the sheet. So the ‘secret’ is to make the hill from the convex side.
• Also, when you paint or glue layers, you need to aim for odd numbers so everything is in balance (this is how plywood is constructed). So if you have your hill, you would need to paint both sides to keep it in balance.

I hope this makes sense?

[Mike]

Already painted and PVA’d the back, they have been blasted with the hair dryer and are currently under a mountain of books.

How do you weigh it down when drying, won’t the wet side be touching something?
(the desk or the weights?)

[Darkest Star Games]

Put it on wax paper perhaps?  That way they just come off without sticking?

"I saw this in a cartoon once, but I'm pretty sure I can do it..."

[Geof Downton]

Darkest Star Games wrote:

Put it on wax paper perhaps?

…or silicone baking paper.

One who puts on his armour should not boast like one who takes it off.
Ahab, King of Israel; 1 Kings 20:11

[Guy Farrish]

Or glue a piece of paper on the bottom – to make a three ply sandwich (See Steve’s comment above about plywood) so you get :

—–grass

—–polystyrene

—–paper

 

and the stresses between the top and centre layer even up those between the centre and bottom layer.

 

[Mike]

Ha. That was exactly what I was going to try next.  😀

[Guy Farrish]

Great minds…?

[Angel Barracks]

I was trying to work out why my hedges look short, turns out Pendraken 10mm are more like 13mm..

Bugger.
Best make some new hedges at some point…

 

[Steve Johnson]

Remember that when hedges were cut and layed by hand, they were only about waist height, maybe a tad more. Modern hedges are higher because they can be cut by machines attached to tractors and are in fact better for wildlife, as badgers and foxes can’t raid the birds nests. Something I learnt on a hedgelaying course some years ago.

So in fact your hedges are right Michael given the above.

[Author]

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