Home Forums General General 3d printer, i got one

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  • #122013
    gamegonegood
    Participant

    I saw you guys are using 3d printers, so I jumped-in & here is what happend

    My first 3d printing experience, I hope I can pass on what I learned

    before I bought one, I learned that some brands of the filiment are not as pure a more expensive ones, this was not a problem, but I chose a printer that had its own filiments so I did not have to worry about all the settings, I learned that the settings are many, so getting a simple printer setup for myself was the most important thing .

    I also wanted a fully assembled one

    I chose XYZ Printing da Vinci mini w 3D printer (fully assembled), Wireless, FREE for: £12 300g PLA filament, £15 maintenance tools, modelling software, and video tutorials, 15x15x15cm Built Vol.

    it had the tools & a starter filiment too

    i went to the xyz site and signed up before I needed to whiles installing

    I found I needed xyzmaker full package on a windows 10 machine, the software was very confusing which was needed, but just get the maker full package.

    I watched videos on the site while i waited for delivery there pretty short, i also was hungry for youtube tutorials on unboxing and assembling, this worked out because i knew everything when it arrived

    I was frightend with other peoples experiences, but if you prepare and do everything right your fine, the problem i found was i did not know which way round the filliment went i watched some videos and spotted the correct way

    you need to know when you load or unload filiments you need to choose it in the options then the nozzle heats up and you can push it on or off

    I decided i did not want to waste the small free filliment on something simple so i got a terrain piece a church & went for it. its now printing as i write, yoo open it in maker and just press print

    i forgot to check if everything was level before i printed but wow it told me auto leveling, this is why i bought this printer for the ease of use

    I did not have any glue , but i printed anyway . Im half way through the print and its fine

    I put the sheet on the bottom to far left, because i thought it was going to cover the whole plate, so i was worried a full size model would not fit, but I used a 15cm model and it just fits, have a look at the photo i posted

    also I worried so much i would do something wrong, i did not even check if the nozzle was a card distance from the base, it seems that it worked right out of the box and is more tollerent than i thought, to see the print working is amazing, the other software you get is for tablets or phones, I intent to make models so Im not going to use a tablet im using a PC with a big monitor.

    this printer comes with modeling software & its easy to use, I tried blender, I like blender but the software is much simpler, Im glad i have both. the models can be 15cm x 15cm x 15cm I realised this was big enough for models at 25-28mm scale or below.

    I looked at some models on line & some seem to print out a kit to glue together, Im afraid i want stability in my models, if i want a kit ill buy one. Ive not looked at much yet so dont asume i know what im talking about yet Its my first day, these are just my thoughts etc…

    Im amazed is the simple conclusion, when you realise you can print scenery , you start planning your battlefield. the filiments are more expensive BUT! you avoid many options to set , the printer already knows what it prints with. its super simple to get going.

     

    • This topic was modified 1 year, 10 months ago by gamegonegood.
    #122023
    Thomaston
    Participant

    Whoa, you went and bought a 3d printer on a whim? gutsy.
    Wow, 3D printers are getting cheaper and cheaper.

    I agree it should be very useful for terrain.

    Tired is enough.
    I like tiny miniatures

    #122030
    gamegonegood
    Participant

    I never thought it would be this exciting too be honest, going from 2d to 3d is great fun.

    #122031
    Aotrs Commander
    Participant

    Speaking as a professional, you can do a lot more than terrain with it.

    This is a model (mesh) my mate bought from HeroForge online for his character Throllgar, and printed on our Replicator 2.


    We also know for a fact you get get this sort of quality off a £200 little printer off Ebay – my mate’s mate bought a Wanho Mini (I3, I think?) and the results off that made my Dad fork out the £120 for Simplfy 3D slicing software for our Replicator 2 – which gaves us this. It was like having a new printer entirely; as soon as the first print rolled out we were like “yeah, that was worth it!”

    So the quality of your slicing software definitely has an effect on what you can do with it. (And to be fair, the Replicator 2 wasn’t bad before.) Cura’s not bad, though, and you often get that with some printers. The big advantage with Simplify is it allows you to edit the supports, and they are much more intellient in design, which means they come off nicely, and we can print things we never would have been able to do before (such as 144th scale infantry).

    I personally use TurboCAD for my modelling; Dad uses Rhino, because he got a copy when he was working at RR, but anything is fine if you’re prepared, like everything else, to sink the time in!

    A 3D printer is also a great way of doing DIY.

    If you’re using PLA filament, definitely shop around, because you can get a reel for about £20 which is perfectly fine stuff with no differences I can see between it and the propritary stuff at two and a half times the price.

    The £12 cheap real we got from Aldi wasn’t really up to much, though.

     

     

     

     

    #122033
    gamegonegood
    Participant

    thanks for the advice, that’s a great fig, I got modelling and slicing etc with the printer, I will find out how it compares , blender is free Ive been playing with it last night. but I have heard of rhino, my model of a church should be done in an hour or so, I will post it when its hot of the press

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 10 months ago by gamegonegood.
    #122040
    Aotrs Commander
    Participant

    Rhino is kind of out of the reach of us lesser mortals, being in the I-don’t-want-to-know price range (oops, I looked – just shy of one thousand euros, ouch!)

    TurboCAD (the version I use anyway, the cut-down one) is “onlt” about £80 or so; we used it because we’ve been using TCAD since version 1.0 for fold-flat cardboard buildings (and, in my case, Full Thrust record sheets…) since the mid-90’s so it wasn’t much of a stretch. (Well, aside from going from version 3.0 to version 16 the first time…!)

    But like all these things you gets, to some extent, what you pays for. I use an early version on Blender as part of my “desparately try to fix this mesh” solutions, but it isn’t exactly hugely user-friendly UI – though I imagine the more recent versions are much better.

     

    #122042
    gamegonegood
    Participant

    I was having problems doing a Boolean modifier to cut a model in blender, the sculpting looks cool part of it, I used it years ago and wow it was hrd, but I seems a bit more easy now, saying that there was not easy to learn what I have , just easier. so rhino will have to stay with the herd then.

    my 3d print is looking pretty good, don’t know why I have not done this sooner.

    #122048
    gamegonegood
    Participant

    Cura & Simplify, do hey work on any 3d printer?

    #122049
    Aotrs Commander
    Participant

    Dunno about every printer; you’d have to double-check your specific one with Cura (which is open-source, by-the-by), but  quick check of Simplify’s config assistant suggests it does with yours, at least.

    #122051
    gamegonegood
    Participant

    thanks! I will have a lookout for them , cara open source is nice , would go with blender.

     

    here is my first model too 4 hrs

     

    #122052
    Gregory Principato
    Participant

    Not sure I am a fan of the finished item. Good luck and I hope it works for you.

    Greg

    #122053
    gamegonegood
    Participant

    yes, its the photo, and it will look plenty better when painted.

    #122058
    Aotrs Commander
    Participant

    PLA can be a bit tricky photographically, I’ve found myself. We’ve tried several, but I think the best in that regard has been some silver we’re using now (though that brown wasn’t too bad). The worst is white or pale grey, which is almost but not quite as bad as the commerical white nylon (which is horrible!) I often find if I have to take pictures of that, I have to adjust the automatic contrast on PSP 8 several times to take the glare off, and it’s hardly ideal.

    #122060
    gamegonegood
    Participant

    Its nightime here too, so its under a lamps light. I don’t feel I’m doing to bad my first model done, already printing my second, considering I never knew a sqeak about 3d printing yesterday.. this print is 7hr, my next door is going to love the sound of my printer 🙂 I think there out today , so print in daylight from now on. wow it was scary figuring it all out.

    #122167
    gamegonegood
    Participant

    photo is still shinning, so dosnt look as good as it is, but here is a pic of the bottom half of a house I just printed

     

     

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 10 months ago by gamegonegood.
    #122176
    gamegonegood
    Participant

    ok printed a few more things here is the pic

     

     

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 10 months ago by gamegonegood.
    #122667
    gamegonegood
    Participant

    another print

    THE AMAZING THING IS NO NEED FOR KITS, YOU CAN GET MODELS THAT ARE SIMPLE SOLID PIECES

     

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 10 months ago by gamegonegood.
    • This reply was modified 1 year, 10 months ago by gamegonegood.
    • This reply was modified 1 year, 10 months ago by gamegonegood.
    • This reply was modified 1 year, 10 months ago by gamegonegood.
    #122674
    Truscott Trotter
    Participant

    Wow that last one looks great.
    A different filament makes a big difference in appearance
    Did you make any other changes to settings etc?

    #122680
    gamegonegood
    Participant

    I just use the defaults that are set for you on normal print, the green photo shines for photoing. the printer is great for auto levelling and setting everything for you that’s why I got this printer. I did find you give the print bed a blast with a hairdryer before you start printing helps the first layer to stick, but its a good printer for beginers

    #122695
    Thomaston
    Participant

    The white one does look better. I’d like to see these painted. A lot of the lines on the grren one might get covered up. Looking good.

    Tired is enough.
    I like tiny miniatures

    #122701
    gamegonegood
    Participant

    yes, the green in real life is just as good, but it looks oily in the light

    #122705
    gamegonegood
    Participant

    ok just did a bridge

    #122708
    Sane Max
    Participant

    My son in law bought one very recently. He is a recovering nerd – not a gamer or collector anymore – but he dashed straight round to show me the first thing he had printed – a ‘not space marine’  and it’s ace! He is going to try to knock out 6mm armour on it, I think it will cope very well with the mostly flat surfaces.

    amazing world we live in!

     

    Patrick

    #122778
    gamegonegood
    Participant

    it is amazing world, machines like this are star trek.

    #122785
    Aotrs Commander
    Participant

    Couple of highlights from my own stuff (I mean, I could do this all day…!) – the Nomad Transport, with girders, single piece (this one was a commercial print, but we HAVE printed one off the home printer).

    Directly inspired by Spacecraft 2000-2100AD – if you look at the CAM-117 picture in the first entry, there’s a transport it’s blowing up, from which came the Nomad.

    Pain in the arse to paint, since clever me decided that this fleet needed to have lots of yellow, so it had to be spray-undercoated WHITE. So I had to paint the inside of the girders black (and they are only JUST big enough to get a paintbrush in).

     

    144th scale Hilux technical, clearly not at all painted in the C&C Generals GLA colour scheme. You can see the lines on the bonnet; shallow surfaces with no details are the worse surface for a 3D printer, as it exaggerates the steps. Also this because this is crazy-close photo (my camera came from my maternal grandfather and he never bought crap stuff!) and so it’s well bigger than it would be if you picked it up to stare at it. (One frustration I have with my release photos is that I often have to take a picture, look at in on the screen and then have to go find the tiny piece of filament string that I couldn’t even see with the naked eye…!)

    #122788
    gamegonegood
    Participant

    Wow! yes keep doing it all day, I think a 3D printer thread is great! and your photos show whats possible, Im not a great painter but when I;ve printed enough stuff its going to be alot of painting

    #122795
    gamegonegood
    Participant

    ok just did a tomb and 2 pillars, the pillars take minites to print and they wont take much painting.

     

     

     

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 10 months ago by gamegonegood.
    • This reply was modified 1 year, 10 months ago by gamegonegood.
    • This reply was modified 1 year, 10 months ago by gamegonegood.
    #122811
    Mike
    Keymaster

    Hmmmm I may be interested in buying some prints to use as masters in moulding if you are interested?

    #122844
    Aotrs Commander
    Participant

    Couple of points, having done casting masters for commissions a time or two. Home printers aren’t great for masters (at least FDM ones, anyway); while they’re fine for end-use, you need something higher quality for a master or you’ll get every imperfection the print you’re moulding off has. You might get away without too much for terrain, but you’d struggle with models. You’d really want to get a high-quality commercial print done for that (and that can get expensive).

    3D also prints don’t always translate well to casting without them being specifically designed for it, as they have different design criterion and you can print things you can’t cast. (And vice-versa, you can have finer details on a cast model than an FDM printer will print too.) The nomad, for instance, you simply couldn’t cast as a single piece because of stuff like the girders. E.g., when I did the masters for Kallistra’s WWI tanks, I did the CAD design in a different way to the way I do my own moderns/scifi, because of the different requirements. (Several pieces, different detail; the rivets on Mark IV my printer wouldn’t touch, but with the high-quality commerical master they used, they cast just fine.)

     

    #122845
    Mike
    Keymaster

    Thanks. I know. I have been using printed masters for years. Perfactory mostly. But I am thinking ruins which can be ‘fixed’ for casting quite readily.

    #122846
    Aotrs Commander
    Participant

    Thanks. I know. I have been using printed masters for years. Perfactory mostly. But I am thinking ruins which can be ‘fixed’ for casting quite readily.

    Fair enough! Forgive me if that was teaching you to suck eggs; I find often myself dealing with a lot of people that don’t really know much about the subject, so I always try to be informative.

     

    #122847
    Mike
    Keymaster

    Thats quite ok, sorry for being brief in my “I know what I am about dagnammit” reply…

    #122895
    gamegonegood
    Participant

    OK! I had my first misshap, a print half way through was printing air, so I used the needle tool to poke through the nozzle, then I used the wire brush to clean the filament pipe, I found it wont work unless you recut the filliment because the melted end needs cutting off. all took me 5 mins, if you were told this before you bought a printer it would scare you off, but it was really simple after watching the xyzvideos tutorials they have. So on I go

    #122908
    Brian Handley
    Participant

    Mark, you were unfortunate.  I have a cheap Monoprice Select Mini V2 and it rarely clogs.

    You realise you have turned to the dark side.  Everything from LEGO men to spare parts for gadgets at home.

    I even print some of my own 12mm figures.   Not to everybodies taste as there is minimal detai,l as there should be at 1/144.  However they don’t look stupid as do many metal ones when lined up against the vehicle they are supposed to climb in.  Mine  look like they might just be able to get in.  With metal figures ist looks farcical.   3D printing lets you do wargameing the way you want too.

    In the last week I have printed 20 odd vehicles 10 T72’s and 10 APC’s  so about £70  in metal for the price of maybe £5  in plastic.   You know what they say “Onece you have had plastic you never go back”.

    #122912
    gamegonegood
    Participant

    wow! 3D printing must of been invented for Miniature wargaming , its perfect for the hobby. I did not mind the printer needing a nudge as I learned all about how to fix anything , nice your printer is reliable. I love it because you choose whatever you want to print. I have not printed out miniature figures yet, but I have seen some D&D figs I like, I also have models of D&D dice to print, if you need d4 d8 d12 etc.. that’s a good saving,

     

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 10 months ago by gamegonegood.
    • This reply was modified 1 year, 10 months ago by gamegonegood.
    #122944
    Gone Fishing
    Participant

    Forgive me, I’ve asked this sort of thing before, but it is a bit of an obsession.  For those of you who have some experience printing figures – would it be possible to take a 28mm figure and enlarge it to 54mm? Could a home printer do that? I game in the big scale, you see, and while common mooks and minions are definitely out there, certain character types are very hard to find.

    Mark, your scenery items are looking really good. It’s fun to watch your enthusiasm and growing skill with the thing!

    #122945
    gamegonegood
    Participant

    the printing software has quite a few scaling tools in all directions, and as a scaling percentage. so you would just scale a 28mm by 197%, you just type 197 in the scale that’s it. BUT you have to have the computer model. I believe you can turn photos into models but I have not tried that yet. you can buy models or download free models.

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 10 months ago by gamegonegood.
    #122947
    Aotrs Commander
    Participant

    the printing software has quite a few scaling tools in all directions, and as a scaling percentage. so you would just scale a 28mm by 204%, you just type 204 in the scale that’s it.

    To add to this, scaling up a model is usually much more doable than scaling down. At least with scaling up, you know everything isn’t going to be too small to print (well, assuming the original was, anyway). 28 to 54mm would likely turn out fine; 54 to 28mm might give you problems (the ever-present issue of Minimum Wall Thickness).

    One thing to remember is, especially as the scale goes down, the more likely you are to have to model a part proportionally over-sized to ensure it is of a printable thickness. Working down at 144th where I am means, for instance, MGs have to be quie over-large proportionally. So when I have to scale up one of my models, the process is a a bit more involved as I have to fix those parts relative sizes to maintain the absolute sizes.

    You would likely start to have problems shirnking a 28mm down to 15mm or something, for instance.

     

    I believe you can turn photos into models but I have not tried that yet

    I’m pretty sure you can’t, given how damn hard a job it is to make a 3D model of technical drawings and from photos. (I suspect even if there was such programs, they’d make CAD packages cheap.)

    I went and had a quick google look. There are packages that claim they can make a photo into a 3D (from the looks of it, by extrapolating a heightmap from the shades I would guess) or model a human face from a photo, but neither of those are quite the same thing as making a model. I.e., you can’t take a picture of a tank and make it into a tank. Notably, the pictures they used were all stuff like headshots, where essentially you’re looking at the front of a foreground object, so I would surmise that would be the principle limitation. So the answer is (as I suspected) you can, but only in fairly specific way.

    (I hazard you might, with some photo editing, be able to do background scenery or something, maybe?)

     

     

    #122948
    gamegonegood
    Participant

    the cheap & easy way https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_cKb3oEM47E they are using an xbox 360 camera to scan a 3d object ready to 3d print.  free skinning app https://skanect.occipital.com/    my only issue with this is can you scan a small object like a figure??

    I found the tech on the camera  here      https://www.instructables.com/id/3d-Scan-Anything-Using-Just-a-Camera/

    but seems very time consuming, but if its an obsession, not sure what it would cost though

     

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 10 months ago by gamegonegood.
    • This reply was modified 1 year, 10 months ago by gamegonegood.
    • This reply was modified 1 year, 10 months ago by gamegonegood.
    • This reply was modified 1 year, 10 months ago by gamegonegood.
    #122955
    Gone Fishing
    Participant

    This is most interesting. Not trying to hijack the thread, but do either of know where to go for free figure files I keep hearing about? I’d love to sniff around and see what’s available. If it makes any difference, I’m interested in doing some Conan-themed figures in 54mm.

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