26/08/2016 at 10:39 #47411
Is anyone at all interested in a stage by stage post about how I paint my 6mm infantry?26/08/2016 at 11:15 #47420ThuseldParticipant26/08/2016 at 11:41 #47423
So I will be painting my RDF HARD suits which will be easy and both difficult.
Easy as the RDF don’t use many colours, difficult as they are bigger and I want them to be detailed and super bad ass.
So, get the model and stick it to the tiddly wink (base) with superglue.
I don’t like (hate) seeing the integral metal base showing through on the finished model.
So I raise up the surface to make a level smooth ground / floor for the model.
Normally I use Vallejo White Pumice, but today I decided to use green stuff.
I seem to be doing things a bit different today, normally I undercoat all my infantry and vehicles in brown.
I find black just encourages lazy painting (when people don’t paint the whole figure, and where the black shows through they call it a shadow) and white is too light.
Brown is a nice medium base colour.
However, as these are going to be grey I went with grey just to see if it makes any difference.
(plus the shop had no brown once, so I had to buy grey and I want to get it used up)
So a quick thin spray, don’t spray close or for long as it will clog the details.
Also why I don’t use Halfords primer, it is very thick.
Then I go and water down my RDF grey (Coat d’arms 231 Mid Grey) and brush it on all over, making sure I get into the cracks.
It is very very close to the Humbrol spray grey as it happens.
I use an old brush as it is handy for poking into armpits and the like.
The 1st ink wash is up next.
I use Coat d’arms 177 Super Wash Dark Brown.
At this stage the ink wash is more about showing the detail and definition than about the shading.
It helps identify areas that need special attention.
Again an old brush reserved for washing is used, no need to use anything fancy when the wash is applied all over.
That is all for now, I will do some more once I am settled on colours.
I find that it is best to get the main colour on the model before deciding on what colours the details will be.26/08/2016 at 16:30 #47442Dan RaynerParticipant
These step-by-step tutorials are invaluable to newcomers to the scale (like me!) and I would think are exactly the kind of thing that will attract people to the forum.
Looking forward to your next post!26/08/2016 at 18:06 #47447McKinstryParticipant
Great and thank you. I always take something away from tutorials.
Just curious though, I almost always prime white with smaller scales as the paint has a tendency to look darker on smaller figures and anything that counteracts that, including primer color, makes it pop a bit more. Has the smaller runs darker thing not been an issue for you?
Never wrestle with a pig. You both get muddy and the pig just likes it.26/08/2016 at 18:47 #47449
Has the smaller runs darker thing not been an issue for you?
I think so, maybe.
As noted I don’t like black undercoating , I also don’t like white.
I tried it a few times but found it made the figures a bit plastic.
That look a painted plastic model has compared to a painted metal one.
There is something about them that just looks different and I kind of get that same vibe with 6mm undercoated in white.
Also I find a black undercoat obscures details and white kind of snow blinds me!
For me, the normal brown is a happy medium.
What can I say…!?!
I have added some colour details, the joints and gun barrels, ammo belt and actuators etc, will try some photos tomorrow when we have better light.
EDIT: Oh and black is a bugger to paint say yellow or red onto, as I have to first paint it white then the bright colour.
Not so much with brown or grey, though still a bit.
Oh, and no.
Maybe, I pick up my models and look at them from close, so the darker because they are smaller is not as issue, as they don’t small when they are IN MY FACE
27/08/2016 at 10:41 #47494
- This reply was modified 4 years, 6 months ago by Angel Barracks.
Breaking out the smaller Series 7 brush I added some details.
The HARD suits are for Alpha Squad who are assigned the colour red for their designation.
So they get red on the top of the suit. Also on the top is the suit number, as each suit has a specific owner. It helps with customisation, repairs and lingering smells etc.
All the weapon barrels are painted black as are the actuator arm on the rocket pods.
The left sleeve has a blue power light so people so outsiders can see if the suit is still functioning correctly and the right has a green light that shows the status of the arm mounted machine gun.
The ammo belt is painted a sort of bronze/brass/copper colour, I wanted to avoid a shiny silver metal for the ammo.
The joints in the elbows and knees have also been painted black.
Then on the top I have added the numbers as noted above suing some decals.
That is about it for now, next will be some shading on the grey suits.27/08/2016 at 12:51 #47500greg954Participant
Good stuff, always worth a read.
I will be ordering some of these at some point for my RDF. Because I couldn’t be bothered to paint my RDF at the time, guess who did?
So when I do go and paint a squad for my RDF and need them to match. This will come in mighty handy for a reference.
03/09/2016 at 13:04 #47930
- This reply was modified 4 years, 6 months ago by greg954.
Managed to sneak in a bit of painting whilst the family went swimming…
First was a black inkwash, unlike the previous brown wash which was applied all over, this is just carefully brushed into key areas.
I did the hands, ammo belt, hatches and arms.
Then I mixed up some black and grey and painted in shadows into the recesses.
So the model is now shaded.
Next I need to bring back the base coat, the normal mid grey, after this we can add the highlights.
Now I don’t like drybrushing as I find it is not precise enough and by the nature of it being a bit dry, it can leave a rough finish.
On big figures these little bits of paint that make the rough finish may not be that noticeable, but I find on 6mm they are.
So steady painting with a slightly watered down mix to bring up the main grey colour.
Next up will be the highlights and then the detail work, such as going back to touch up the lights, ammo belt, decals, motifs, dirt etc..
The school holidays are almost over so I should be able to get these finished in the first few days of next week.03/09/2016 at 15:25 #47936Victoria DicksonParticipant
I’m getting seriously tempted by these, must resist, must resist…
(And yeah, black undercoat is for lazy painters, that’s why I do it lol)04/09/2016 at 11:05 #47974
So the highlights on the grey are done.
Two shades lighter done by simply mixing some white with the grey and applying to certain raised areas.
Then a final shade applied to edges and more prominent raised areas.
Up close with the zoomed in image it looks quite rough:
But in real life with the old mk 1 eyeball they are much smoother and pleasant, as this may help illustrate:
They don’t look quite so shabby when closer to their actual size.
Next up the colour details and their highlighting and some weathering.04/09/2016 at 11:31 #47977RhodericParticipant
I’m inspired and intimidated in equal measure. More than anything, though, it’s very nice to see 6mm receive this kind of love. Thank you for doing this thread.05/09/2016 at 13:22 #48061
So next up is the highlighting of the lights and stuff.
Same principle… Apply the original colour and make a base layer, then apply a slightly lighter shade, then again one further even lighter layer, picking out edges and corners.
Then onto the weathering, this is a combination of muddy feet and bits of run off that has accumulated on the armour.
Two colours, a sort of reddy brown for the mud which is Coat d’arms 241 Rust and an orangey colour that is Coat d’arms 224 HOrse Tone Bay (also excellent as roof tiles for Spanish peninsular buildings)
Now the basing.
Like a numpty I used really cheap craft paint when I first painted the edges of my bases, whilst cheap is nice it has it’s problems.
The problem here is that this particular one needs three coats to stop it being transparent.
So the edges get three coats but the top only gets one.
This is left to dry.
Once dry I varnish the edge of the base.
Now here we come to the tricky part.
Very little scatter/flock is designed with 6mm in mind, it tends to often look big an clumpy and a bad base can ruin a nice figure.
Take your time, don’t just slap some paint on the base and dunk it in flock or it could look uncool.
I use four flavours of flock.
The base brown which is my planets grass, then some GW sand with teeny weeny pebbles, some red scatter and some orange short strand scatter.
This short strand scatter is great as the individual strands are no longer than 2mm which helps with the early noted problem.
you can also get some that has fibres just 1mm, which is better for things like 3mm.
I also have my eye dropper / egg cup ready.
This has a mixture of water, PVA glue and liquid soap, about 50/50 water/glue with a teeny drop of the liquid soap added.
The soap helps break down the surface tension so when you apply the solution to the base it does not sit there like a bubble, it soaks nicely into the base.
So, now that the base is dry we get some more of that nasty cheap craft paint and water it down just a touch, maybe 10% added water.
We apply this all over the area to be flocked and whilst still wet we pop the figure in the base flock pot and make sure it is all flocked.
Pull them all out and let them dry.
Once they are dry they are not too bad as done, bit not too bad will not suffice!
So we cearfully apply the water/glue mix to the edge of the base and let it soak in toward the centre and cover it.
Then apply some gravelly rocks and some more brown stuff if there are any bare patches.
Wait for that to dry.
Then once dry, I use a brush and dab some glue/water mix onto select areas where I want extra stuff.
In this case some red flock which are the seeds from the Deema Pods which grow on Kometenmelodie, and some of the static grass.
To apply the grass, take a tiny pinch and drop gently onto the wet glue patch from just above, then holding the model very tight turn it upside down and flick the bottom of the base quick firmly.
I find this knocks off most of the excess and also helps make the static grass hang directly down, which when you turn it the right way up, means the grass is pointing up.
Take a fine brush and wet the end and use it to pluck off any stray grass and dry it out to help poke any grass in the right direction.
Wait to dry and we are done!
It is a bit of a long process and is not at all what you must do, it just what I do to achieve the look that I like.
hopefully it has been of use to helping you tackle 6mm, or failing that, just as a distraction.05/09/2016 at 14:15 #48074
Tell a lie, not quite done.
I have added a coat of matt varnish and then added a little bit of gloss to the lights to make them shine a bit more.05/09/2016 at 14:30 #48076StroezieParticipant
Love the weathering! It realy takes them to the next level.
For some reason that last picture made me think of that suit standing open between two tied down jurapeds next to Jane’s 😎.
If you like small scale skirmish, check out http://planetares6.blogspot.be/?m=0
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