- 06/09/2018 at 10:31 #98690
Progress so far on terrain bits for my 6mm Sengoku project. Squares are 10cm. Buildings by Mura Miniatures and some Castle Arts. Civilians from GHQs Vietnam range.
06/09/2018 at 10:41 #98693ThomastonParticipant
So lush and tranquil, makes me want to live there. How much research did you have to do to get this?
I like that pond, did you use the same for the rice paddies?
Tired is enough.
R-rated narcissism06/09/2018 at 10:53 #98694
The pond is done with clear acetate, but the rice paddies are gloss varnished. I think it must have been because I wanted people standing in the rice paddies. I did about half an hour’s reading on Japanese medieval agriculture online, then realised that wasn’t much fun and I could just look at some screenshots of Nobunaga’s Ambition instead. Ideas for the village stuff came from watching hundreds of hours of Taiga dramas……
There’s a guide to the base with the pond here: https://tenkafubu608971038.wordpress.com/terrain-tutorials/a-6mm-village-base/06/09/2018 at 10:53 #98695MikeKeymaster06/09/2018 at 11:52 #98703RhodericParticipant
It’s captivating. Well done and thanks for sharing, it’s really appreciated!06/09/2018 at 14:47 #98712Darkest Star GamesParticipant
That is fantastic work! Just lovely, sir! I am envious and appreciative.
Ya know, change out the houses for hootches and add some water buffalo and you could easily play some Vietnam with it…
"I saw this in a cartoon once, but I'm pretty sure I can do it..."06/09/2018 at 15:03 #98714ThomastonParticipant
Your technique worked really well, the pond reflected more and looked like a more significant body of water.
Also liked the vegetable patch. Different shades for wooden roof is also a nice touch.
Taigas are good but once I’ve seen a few I start to recognize the same set in other series.
Read a few of your blogs, this is the first time I heard of sonae, don’t think Turnbull’s book even mentioned the term.
Also interesting choice of basing for Tenkatoitsu, my first thought was each base with the corresponding ratio of range, samurai and ashigaru but your first method of separate base for each types is more flexible.
Finally the grids, have you considered shifting the tiles so they’re staggered? It works the same as hexes with 6 adjacent tiles instead of 8.
Tired is enough.
R-rated narcissism06/09/2018 at 16:22 #98721NoelParticipant
That’s tabletop art.06/09/2018 at 17:40 #98728
Also interesting choice of basing for Tenkatoitsu, my first thought was each base with the corresponding ratio of range, samurai and ashigaru but your first method of separate base for each types is more flexible. Finally the grids, have you considered shifting the tiles so they’re staggered? It works the same as hexes with 6 adjacent tiles instead of 8.
Yes, small bases grouped together on movement trays was one thing we thought about. I’m not keen on movement bases and I’d only envisaged playing large battles, so I was OK with the permanent bases. It is a lot of work, though. And if I were less obsessed with the Sengoku Jidai I think I’d use fewer troops per base. Now that I’m thinking of doing small battles, I’ve revisited the smaller bases. Again, it’s a big commitment, so I would advise thinking about movement trays/sabot bases etc.
As to grids, I like them in games anyway. It’s probably easier to just use measurements and I might test that out soon, but I prefer the exact movement you get with grids which speeds the game up. I didn’t consider offset squares as the boards we have in club are grids. But really, it’s not necessary to use either. Grids, no grids or hexes will work fine with the game.06/09/2018 at 19:28 #98738ThuseldParticipant06/09/2018 at 22:59 #98756Darkest Star GamesParticipant
Question: is the static grass applicator you use just a squeeze bottle/shaker type, or one with a wire lead to the glue to connect a current?
"I saw this in a cartoon once, but I'm pretty sure I can do it..."06/09/2018 at 23:14 #98757
I use a Flockit machine, but I usually use it with a copper plate to shoot the fibres upwards. For top-down flocking I just attach the clip to a copper plate and put the thing to be flocked on the plate. I think a Flockbox or similar would do just as well if not better. But there’s no need for connecting a wire to the glue.
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.