- 03/09/2014 at 21:37 #7012Ivan SorensenParticipant
For games where you need to position figures individually, how do you represent your wooded areas?
The traditional seem to be some sort of green base, with a few symbolic trees placed on it, but I’m curious what people are up to. I’m thinking mainly 15mm and up.
Nordic Weasel Games
https://www.wargamevault.com/browse/pub/5701/Nordic-Weasel-Games?src=browse570104/09/2014 at 11:25 #7050PaulParticipant
I use a base, suitably textured, painted and flocked, with “a few symbolic trees” glued to it. I have some model railroad trees where the trunk of the tree can be removed from the “stump” if you need to remove a tree to place a figure.
I am also planning on making a base with “holes” to place individual trees based on washers (similar concept to a movement tray for figures).
Those are brave men knocking at our door. Let's go kill them!04/09/2014 at 12:38 #7052ShandyParticipant
Good question as I have to come up with something for my new project. Up until now, I use a piece of felt delineating the wooded area and put scenic bases with 2-3 trees on it. Looks reasonably well and is easy to use. As I don’t like to fiddle around with terrain while playing, easy to use is paramount.
For the new project (medieval Spain, so woods are rather sparse pine tree affairs), I’m thinking of making a larger scenic base and inserting smaller bases with trees into ‘holes’ as Paul said. Not individual trees though, that would be too fiddly.
I always wanted to build one of those dense woods where the trunks form a barrier around the base and the treetops are a removable roof, but never managed to. My one effort stalled due to using the wrong materials.
My blog: http://wargamingraft.wordpress.com04/09/2014 at 15:30 #7069PatriceParticipant
Till recently I used dark green felt and a few trees on separate bases.
Now that I am trying to improve my terrain, I am thinking about painting and flocking forest bases.
Also I notice that in real forest there is not much grass on the ground, around my home even in summer (now) it’s mostly dead leaves from last winter and some plants/thorns/bushes where they can get some light through the tree branches. Perhaps tea leaves would do, with in places some green tufts, brambles for dead branches etc (one of my next projects…)
https://www.anargader.net/04/09/2014 at 19:00 #7082PaulParticipant
Of course, another option is just to model the trunks of the trees (particularly for vast expanses of forest) and leave out the foliage. I know that people do this for boards that are mostly covered in trees, but I’m not completely sold on the idea myself.
Those are brave men knocking at our door. Let's go kill them!04/09/2014 at 19:10 #7085Nick the LemmingParticipant
Mostly like these:
Bases to denote forested / wooded areas, with a few trees scattered around for decoration.04/09/2014 at 19:51 #7088Steve JohnsonParticipant
My system is to have a mdf/hardboard base, with grit and flock on it painted to look like the rest of my scenery. Onto this I place free standing trees mounted on 2 pence coins. This way the trees can be moved out of the way, used on their own to line roads etc and the base can represent scrubland etc when not a ‘wood’.04/09/2014 at 20:25 #7096
I did my 6mm ones like this for a while.
This is from an old old post.
With woods and wargames I generally see 1 of 2 things happen when men enter woods, either the men are balanced on the top of the trees (looks daft) or the woods are removed and replaced with a string outline (boo hiss bring back the nice looking woods)
So here is the something I have been meaning to do in ages.
A section of woods with removable trees for when the miniatures get in there!
The tree holders are actually unused tubes from cotton wool buds.
They are ridged and will hopefully look slightly woody when painted.
Now we have some rough texture applied to make it more like undergrowth and less like a field.
(this is sand textured gel, similar to Vallejo pumice)
Also there is a rough patch left flat which will be made to look like a path/trail that will marry up with my paths on my terrain tiles.
Build time so far: 9 minutes
Now we have painted the edges of the base, painted the tree trunks and flocked the wee little pathway..
14 minutes build time so far.
Now we have the first 2 layers of flock.
Dark green base with lumps in it from my hedge making pot of flock.
Then a layer of green with some bits of brown it.
A bit of grass down the middle of the path where the wagon wheels don’t go.
Starting to look a bit more woody now….
Total build time 19 minutes.
Next layer of flocking, some lighter grass shades and some rocky bits.
Total build time 24 minutes.
The almost final step is adding a sheath around the thin tree trunk.
The bottom holder section is thicker than the rest of the trunk so I have added a sheath (again made from cotton wool buds) to the rest of the trunk ensuring it looks a bit more fluid.
34 minutes to build so far.
Some French Voltigeurs approach the woods.
Inside the woods with trees removed, making it easy to place the miniatures.
Inside the woods with the trees put back in place, easy peasy.
42 minutes total build time.11/09/2014 at 14:21 #7963Fernando DarlingtonParticipant
That’s a very clever idea Mike.07/10/2014 at 12:42 #10169irishserbParticipant
Depends on the type of tree, but most are either Woodland Scenics plastic armatures or wire armatures, wrapped with floral tape or putty and “foliated” with some sort of flock, cluster or lichen. Some tropical cycads and palms are made from beads stacked on a wire core, maybe textured with putty or acrylic paste, and with leaflets from artificial plastic ferns and whatnot to top them off. They are usually based in ones, twos or threes on .06 or 08 inch thick styrene sheet textured, painted, and flocked to match one of my terrain types (woodland forest green, sandy yellow/green mix, or yellow/brown desert). I do have some pines that are various sizes of bottlebrush with flock, but never have found a way that is “just right” for pines. I also have a small number of palms and tropicals for 15mm and smaller that are plastics from Ebay.
Method is the same regardless of scale (6mm to 28mm), with tree size varying accordingly.
Representation is one tree represents one tree, actual size and shape.08/10/2014 at 17:09 #10237jef croucherParticipant
i use irregular patches of green felt with a single base of 2-3 trees on each patch, so the more dense the wood the more tree bases go on, but you can still move figures about between them
i use woodland scenics plastic trees stuck onto circular cork coasters (from Cordens in Warminster!). The bases are textured with cheap filler and scatter material and soaked in a thin coat of dark earth. I also recommend the cheap wire twist trees from Minibits which can be plugged into the coaster. The trees look a bit ‘C&N’ at first, but spray them with a variety of tree colours (!) and they come out nicely.
Hope this helps.
http://jefslittlewinki.pbworks.com/w/page/67177157/FrontPage27/10/2014 at 22:36 #11351
Although I only do 6mm, I am in the green felt with a few toy trees on top. However, I quite like the look of something I saw on The Place We Do Not Name where a guy cut a bunch of toothpicks in half, stuck some into a piece of foamcore and covered the upper surface with clump foliage to give a canopy affect.
Am wondering about doing it with a piece of green carpet tile with clump on top, so it drapes over the hills.27/10/2014 at 22:43 #11352
The Place We Do Not Name
You can mention The Miniatures Page here.
TWW is about the community and if that means mentioning another site to help a member here, then that is fine.27/10/2014 at 22:55 #11353Mr. AverageParticipant
I play at 1 Tank =1 Tank at 3mm scale on TerrainMaker hexes, and usually, clump foliage of a good mix of colors, arranged with some small clearings here and there, do the trick. A bit of dilute white glue sealer sprayed on top keeps the mess to a minimum. When necessary, putting the tank on top of the canopy doesn’t really detract too much from the visual effect as it’s rarely there for long.29/10/2014 at 14:01 #11479
Most kind Mike, but I find that not to do so is good for my blood pressure, tau, yin, yang, glycemia, digestion and regularity01/11/2014 at 04:13 #11756SpuriousParticipant
For my 6mm stuff I made some woods using felt as a base and a transparent caulk as the glue for the clump foliage and flock. I also cut an exact copy of the base shape of felt (through the miracle of folding the cloth over) to use as a replacement if I needed to put a large number of units in the woods (a few typically surf the sponge quite well but it can get complicated) but usually I do without the second piece for practicality. In that it saves time when setting up the table.
Works well, retains a decent degree of flexibility but won’t mould itself to every curve due to the small size and lightness of the pieces.
Come to think of it, I probably should have flocked the under-pieces too with emphasis on a leaf-litter colouration rather than leaving them plain.
10/01/2015 at 06:59 #15450Norm SParticipant
- This reply was modified 6 years, 9 months ago by Spurious.
Good idea to use two felt pieces. I like the multiple textures that you have in that one tile.15/01/2015 at 17:01 #15776NoelParticipant
I’ve been playing around with delineating woods with terrain elements, rather than using “wood bases”.
So I try to have woods be surrounded by fields, fences, roads, that sort of thing. If not, I have some small ‘scenic’ rocks on penny bases to use to mark the boundaries of my wooded areas.
I used to mount my trees on scraps of wood or bases I wasn’t going to use and then put rocks and other stuff on there. Some pictures of my 28mm stuff is here:
With my 6mm stuff, I’ve been doing similar but using more uniform bases rather than whatever I’ve got laying around.30/01/2015 at 23:31 #16556Ron DuBrayParticipant
Here are some photos of my 28mm woods.
Ron W DuBray29/03/2015 at 15:12 #20840Silent InvaderParticipant
Late to the party but this is my first post here so it might as well be something I’m presently working on
I pretty make the woodland in a way that works for the specific project.
My current build is for Belgium 1914 (my Tommy And Fritz game), which uses trees with plugs so that they can be removed for access:
But I also sometimes use trees permanently fixed to the board, as in Winter Wreaks Wild:
And other times I mount a small group on CDs, such as for By Arrow Bill & Sword:
Edited 26/11/16 for broken image link
29/03/2015 at 15:25 #2084113/08/2015 at 16:38 #2919315/08/2015 at 06:36 #29263EtrangerParticipant
- This reply was modified 4 years, 8 months ago by Silent Invader.
No need to apologise Tim! I missed these the first time round too.15/10/2015 at 16:45 #32731malc johnstonParticipant
At the moment i am in the middle of creating woods and trees, always full of ideas – i wanted a large wooden area that can be also be seperated into single base trees, will get the photos up and show you by the end of the week how i do it.Some nice looking ideas and trees here.
Willyoupleasehelpmefixmykeyboard?Thespacebarisbroken!21/10/2015 at 01:43 #33053McLaddieParticipant
I’m a little late to the thread, but I’ve always used washers for tree bases. Moving troops through woods with fixed trees always annoyed me. I’ve taken magnetic sheeting, painted it in browns and greens, spruced it up with flocking to indicate the boundaries of woods. The trees ‘stick’ to the base and don’t tip over, but you can move the trees when necessary.
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