Home Forums General General How to completely remove acrylic paint from a metal miniature?

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  • #173447
    Stug
    Participant

    Hi everyone. What is the best way to completely remove the paint from a metal miniature? I want to remove Vallejo acrylic paint and Vallejo acrylic polyurethane primer.

    Thanks for your help!

    #173448
    Wicked Wargames
    Participant

    I’ve always used white spirits, white spirits alternatives or Paint remover from Wilko’s. Soak in chosen liquid for half hour minimum and brush well with a toothbrush. Guaranteed to work with a bit of effort and the right amount of patience. In a pinch nail polish remover can work. But can sometimes produce stringy leftover bits. Whatever happens don’t panic because an overnight bath in white spirits will tear anything off the model for sure. It might also melt glue joins. So keep an eye on that and let it dry thoroughly before washing with warm soap if you need to re paint or reassemble. Good luck ☺️

    WWW.WICKEDWARGAMES.COM - The wargames company i run with a friend.

    #173451
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    Detoll is my go to – specifically the yellow / orange one but it does smell (some would say stink TBH) – a toothbrush and wooden toothpick helps to lift the sticky bits in the corners.

    I understand Biostrip is excellent – I’ve seen the results (and they where great) but never tried it.

    #173453
    Geof Downton
    Participant

    I use acetone, but I’m weird enough to like the smell of Detol, so I may change in future…

    One who puts on his armour should not boast like one who takes it off.
    Ahab, King of Israel; 1 Kings 20:11

    #173454
    Steven Francis
    Participant

    I brought some paint stripper from Wicks (UK) to do a radiator….turn out nothing will remove the 1960s paint several layers down so thought I would try it in a plastic mini….few minutes and done with no damage to plastic. Slot quicker, cleaner and less smelly than Detol.

    https://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Paint+Varnish-Stripper—1L/p/15505

    Interesting that it used to carry 5 star rating when I got it bit they have dropped to two….

    I have had some GW sprue sitting in some for a week with no harm so assuming plastic safe

    #173457
    willz
    Participant

    As Andrew says Detol, works every time.

    #173459
    miniaturemen
    Participant

    Biostrip.

    Place minis in an empty coffee jar, pour in biostrip to cover, leave for 24 hours then scrub with a nail brush.

    Available in various quantities and can buy direct ( think the company is Fuze) or from Amazon.

     

    #173461
    Paint it Pink
    Participant

    For metal miniatures, nothing in my experience beats Nitromors. Don’t use of plastic.

    For plastic miniatures then Dettol, Simple Green, Isopropyl alcohol, or power cleaner like LA Awesome all work.

    Brushing will be required.

    One is good, more is better
    http://panther6actual.blogspot.co.uk/
    http://ashleyrpollard.blogspot.co.uk/

    #173463
    Stug
    Participant

    Thanks everyone for your help. Finally, someone told me to use isopropyl alcohol. I already had a bottle of 99% of isopropyl alcohol so I made a try. My models are still in the bottle and the paint is removing fast since I added them about eight hours ago. I will let them for maybe one complete day to see the results.

    #173484
    OotKust
    Participant

    Thanks everyone for your help. Finally, someone told me to use isopropyl alcohol.

    personally I’d not waste money by using IPA, rather normal enamel/ household paint strippers that contains caustic concentrates. Put models in jar/ glass tray (not your mothers baking dish!) cover to minimise fumes and leave in a safe place overnight.

    You probably need rubber gloves (latex will melt) and old tooth brushes to scrape away paint. Acrylics may just melt away but I’ve never done it to them.

    cheers dave

    Blinking paint by numbers... bahhumbug!

    #173487
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    For metal miniatures, nothing in my experience beats Nitromors. Don’t use of plastic. For plastic miniatures then Dettol, Simple Green, Isopropyl alcohol, or power cleaner like LA Awesome all work. Brushing will be required.

    I did get some simple green once (cost an arm and a leg in the U.K.) but my good lady loved the smell so much it got used around the house 🙁

    Never found a UK stockist of LA Awesome but was sent some cleaned figures from he US that had been dunked in this and they where spotless.

    Did not Nitromors change the mix a few years back? A friend had real problems on his doors last year much to his surprise.

    … less smelly than Detol…

    It’s a Marmite smell (for none UK folk – you either love it or hate it – no middle ground) and reminds me of being looked after when ill as a child – warm comfy feeling!

    Worse thing with Dettol can be the sticky paint gunk that remains sometimes and washing that off – never found a way around this other than more liquid and a short soak again.

    Another one is brake fluid but I understand this melts plastic / resin and your hands so I’m loath to try this…

    Biostrip even have a dedicated page for minis here and ArtisOpus has a video up on t’tube about it.

    Anyone tried sandblasting metals? I’ve seen a few restoration videos where this is used on the bodies or Matchbox style cars and the details (panel lines etc) survive fine.

    #173493
    Sane Max
    Participant

    I strip and repaint an army every year, and have developed a system that is cheap and efficient for large numbers of figures

    I put them in an old pan, and add a dishwasher detergent tablet. cover them in water and bring to the boil, allow to cook for 15 minutes then leave to cool. dont leave the pan be, it will froth over and also there’s the risk of it boiling dry…..

    Once cool I gently scrub with a washing -up brush, and usually a good 90% of the paint comes off also coming off are bases et, and any glued parts will come apart.

    Then into the Stripping agent. I too rate Nitromors very highly, but it’s pricey. The pre-strip in the pan of hot water means the stripper doesn’t get clogged up with old paint and lasts much much longer.

    #173500
    Paint it Pink
    Participant

    I did get some simple green once (cost an arm and a leg in the U.K.) but my good lady loved the smell so much it got used around the house 🙁 Never found a UK stockist of LA Awesome but was sent some cleaned figures from he US that had been dunked in this and they where spotless. Did not Nitromors change the mix a few years back? A friend had real problems on his doors last year much to his surprise.

    I got my LA Awesome from Amazon, but currently not listed. However, here’s a UK supplier.

    And if you search LA’s Totally Awesome Cleaner Stain Remover Degreaser Spray you’ll find it available on eBay too.

    As for Nitromors, I find that for stripping paint off models it still does the job, and is less caustic on ones flesh too.

    One is good, more is better
    http://panther6actual.blogspot.co.uk/
    http://ashleyrpollard.blogspot.co.uk/

    #173506
    Count Belisarius
    Participant

    I’ve used Dettol a few times to good effect. Once you start on them with a toothbrush after soaking add a little washing up liquid to the brush but NO water. I find as soon as you add water that makes the stringy/clogging effect much worse. I only use water once I’ve got 99% of the paint off.

    #173543
    Mishima
    Participant

    Can’t help with the miniatures…

    But anyone know how to get acrylic paint out of carpet??!!!!??

    Tim from Gomi Designs. 15mm Vietnam riverine. www.gomidesigns.co.uk

    #173545
    Sane Max
    Participant

    But anyone know how to get acrylic paint out of carpet??!!!!??

    Yup. Simply douse the paint-stained area liberally with Nitromors. Leave it to work for a few hours, then, after removing all of your clothes to prevent splashing them, sponge the area clean with a mixture of Dettol, White Spirit and a dishwasher tablet dissolved in boiling water. You will no longer be able to see any paint on your carpet.

    Patco TopTips Ltd accept no responsibility for loss, damage, breathing difficulties, hideous burns, divorce, eye issues, anal bleeding, unexpectedly large bills at CarpetWorld and your house being declared a Hazardous Area by the Environment Agency that may result from following Patco Top Tips. Do not follow Patco Top Tips.

    #173546
    Paint it Pink
    Participant

    Can’t help with the miniatures… But anyone know how to get acrylic paint out of carpet??!!!!??

    A serious answer; carefully using MEK. Dab or brush on and wipe off.

    MEK is a volatile and caution should be taken not to inhale the vapours.

    One is good, more is better
    http://panther6actual.blogspot.co.uk/
    http://ashleyrpollard.blogspot.co.uk/

    #174118
    Stug
    Participant

    I’ve always used white spirits, white spirits alternatives or Paint remover from Wilko’s. Soak in chosen liquid for half hour minimum and brush well with a toothbrush. Guaranteed to work with a bit of effort and the right amount of patience. In a pinch nail polish remover can work. But can sometimes produce stringy leftover bits. Whatever happens don’t panic because an overnight bath in white spirits will tear anything off the model for sure. It might also melt glue joins. So keep an eye on that and let it dry thoroughly before washing with warm soap if you need to re paint or reassemble. Good luck ☺️

    I use acetone, but I’m weird enough to like the smell of Detol, so I may change in future…

    Finally, I think I will have to try another technique, maybe white spirit. A few weeks ago, I put some of my miniatures in a closed jar and added isopopylic alcohol. A lot of the paint disappeared after brushing my miniatures with a toothbrush but most of the black primer remained even after more than two weeks.

    Yesterday, I tried a new technique and added some of my metal miniatures in a closed jar filled with 100% acetone. Twenty four hours later, most of the paint and the primer are still there. If I brush with a toothbrush, it removes a littble bit of the paint but not the primer. I have to use a toothpick to be able to remove the primer. And using a toothpick in the little cracks is very time consuming.

    So acetone doesn’t work so far.

    I use acetone, but I’m weird enough to like the smell of Detol, so I may change in future…

    How long do you keep your models in acetone? It’s been twenty four hours and most of my paint and primer are still there even if I used 100% acetone.

    #174122
    Not Connard Sage
    Participant

    Dettol works on plastic and metal, and it has few health hazards – VOCs are not your friends.

    Pour a bottle into a container, insert figures, leave for a couple of days. Scrub with toothbrush.

    Primer can be a pain to remove, for obvious reasons. Etch primer is the worst. You need patience, but a vat ultrasonic cleaner helps 🙂

    Obvious contrarian and passive aggressive old prat, who is taken far too seriously by some and not seriously enough by others.

    #174130
    Geof Downton
    Participant

    How long do you keep your models in acetone?

    Usually overnight, sometimes longer, scrub with a toothbrush, put them back in the jar if necessary. Like you, I’ve often had to use a toothpick for stubborn bits, I’m not sure, but the stubbornness seems to be dependant on how long the paint has been there. I’m not sure why you’re having such difficulty, you’re doing what I would.

    One who puts on his armour should not boast like one who takes it off.
    Ahab, King of Israel; 1 Kings 20:11

    #174188
    Stug
    Participant

    How long do you keep your models in acetone?

    Usually overnight, sometimes longer, scrub with a toothbrush, put them back in the jar if necessary. Like you, I’ve often had to use a toothpick for stubborn bits, I’m not sure, but the stubbornness seems to be dependant on how long the paint has been there. I’m not sure why you’re having such difficulty, you’re doing what I would.

    Now my miniatures have been in 100% acetone for at least 55 hours. There is not much progress since.

    #174220
    Paint it Pink
    Participant

    I’ll repeat, for metal miniatures, nothing beats Nitromors; paint can be off in 15 minutes; stubborn primer overnight.

    Here’s a link to stripping plastics that is informative.

    And a link to LA Totally Awesome.

    Stop wasting your time trying to reinvent the wheel.

    One is good, more is better
    http://panther6actual.blogspot.co.uk/
    http://ashleyrpollard.blogspot.co.uk/

    #174228
    Not Connard Sage
    Participant

    If we’re getting mardy, I’LL REPEAT Dettol or just about any household disinfectant will do the job without pissing around with flammable substances, VOCs, dire toxins or anything else likely to be injurious to health.

     

    I’m outta here

    Obvious contrarian and passive aggressive old prat, who is taken far too seriously by some and not seriously enough by others.

    #174234
    Guy Farrish
    Participant

    Yeah, Dettol much less ‘orrible to people than Nitromors used to be (is Nitromors as effective since they took out the methylene chloride?).

    If you do use Dettol – keep it away from moggies as the active antibacterial phenols are poisonous to cats, even in quite small doses.

    #174261
    Paint it Pink
    Participant

    Acetone and White Spirits also have drawbacks, but the main reason to not use them is that the former will melt plastic, and isn’t a very good stripper. White Spirits is even worse as a stripper.

    In all cases, be an adult, use in a well ventilated area, and keep away from children and pets.

    One is good, more is better
    http://panther6actual.blogspot.co.uk/
    http://ashleyrpollard.blogspot.co.uk/

    #174262
    Not Connard Sage
    Participant

    Acetone and White Spirits also have drawbacks, but the main reason to not use them is that the former will melt plastic, and isn’t a very good stripper. White Spirits is even worse as a stripper. In all cases, be an adult, use in a well ventilated area, and keep away from children and pets.

     

    Yeah, they’re both flammable, and are volatile organic compounds

    Obvious contrarian and passive aggressive old prat, who is taken far too seriously by some and not seriously enough by others.

    #174278
    Sane Max
    Participant

    For plastic, you can’t top Meths. Immerse, scrub gently and patiently, repeat. Only toxic if you drink it… doesn’t even break superglue bonds so no need to re-glue little arms and legs. I just did a couple of 40k tanks for Grimdark Future and am very pleased.

    #174284
    Not Connard Sage
    Participant

    For plastic, you can’t top Meths. Immerse, scrub gently and patiently, repeat. Only toxic if you drink it… doesn’t even break superglue bonds so no need to re-glue little arms and legs. I just did a couple of 40k tanks for Grimdark Future and am very pleased.

    It’s also a VOC, and flammable.

    It’s seems half this forum is scared witless of 3D resin, thinking it’s going to kill them in ‘orrible ways, and the other half are quite happy to set fire to themselves and acquire chemical induced pneumonia.

    Which is amusing when you consider the average wargamer’s inability to use the simplest of tools without needing medical interventions.

    I suppose you could split the difference. Throw the buggers in a vat of isopropyl alcohol, and chuck in a match. That ought to do it 😀

    Obvious contrarian and passive aggressive old prat, who is taken far too seriously by some and not seriously enough by others.

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