Home Forums Terrain and Scenery I slapped some paint on some plastic

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  • #163411
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    Not up to painting figures yet but I’ve dug out some GW terrain bits and had a play (and enjoyed it):

    Quite happy over the grotty look but next time I’ll look to add a bit more rust after the varnish as that dulled it down more than I expected. I think that will be better than adding lots more before the varnish.

    One thing I am stuck on though is adding ‘sludge’ in the edges / joints. I’ve tried lots of Nuln Oil and though it gives the colour but lacks the bulk. I’ve seen ‘mud’ used on tank tracks and diorama bases but not seen a black oily version but maybe a dark version exists?

    #163417
    Fred B
    Participant

    Oooh, I love how it came out. The contrast between the (tardis?) blue and rust and copper/bronze is great!

    I don’t have a good sludge recipe, but would love to learn your rust recipe – love the look and would like to recreate it on some silos I am working on.

    #163423
    Steve Johnson
    Participant

    They look great Andrew.

    #163444
    Mike
    Keymaster

    I’ve tried lots of Nuln Oil and though it gives the colour but lacks the bulk

    Weathering pigments/pastes?

    Mix in some PVA?

    Nice rust btw.

    #163445
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    Thank you for the praise – other than the blocks, these are the first things really I’ve painted this year without giving up in disgust with my efforts.

    Oooh, I love how it came out. The contrast between the (tardis?) blue and rust and copper/bronze is great! I don’t have a good sludge recipe, but would love to learn your rust recipe – love the look and would like to recreate it on some silos I am working on.

    The blue is an old old tin of GW Macragge Blue and the rust is a base of GW Typhus Corrosion, Ryza Rust and Nuln Oil.  The Typhus is painted on with a normal brush with the Rust then scrubbed and dry brushed with an old stiff paint brush with a flat end – at one point (many years ago) the brush was a ‘Filbert’ but the middle has worn down so much the closest new brush would be a flat or bright brush ( link to big picture).

    The tip of the brush is very firm and its a heavy dry brush at the bottom and a scrub higher up.  The Nuln Oil flattens the very bright spots as does the varnish.

    I’ve tried lots of Nuln Oil and though it gives the colour but lacks the bulk

    Weathering pigments/pastes? Mix in some PVA? Nice rust btw.

    Thats a thought – I avoided pigments for years after seeing some IPMS tanks that had been smudged while being set up but had not thought of adding PVA.

    My main issue is availability – locally we have a limited selection of Vallejo paint (normal and limited game colours), Scunthorpe does not have anything other than GW, Grimsby had GW and Vallejo last time I looked and Hull has a £3 bridge fee + park and ride. Having just missed adding it to my ‘birthday list’ I hate to get stung for P&P at the similar cost to the pot (yup cheapskate). GW has Sylvaneth Bark or Dawnstone but I do not think they will bulk up well going by the texture of the rust.

    Hmm – I wonder if we have any chalk around (I know the school where my wife works uses smart boards only) that I could scrape and colour? If not I maybe able to get a cheap box of kids chalk locally (I assume its still sold as I see children using it on the pavement locally – Ooo mug them? No they may beat me up).

    #163452
    bobm
    Participant

    To bulk up paints or pigments add talc.

    Vallejo do a range of coloured pastes.  I’ve got a wet mud one that is easy to work with.

    There's 10 types of people in the world. Those who understand binary and those who don't.....

    #163453
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    To bulk up paints or pigments add talc. Vallejo do a range of coloured pastes. I’ve got a wet mud one that is easy to work with.

    Now that’s great timing – while sorting out my bottom drawer I came across a shaker of talc in the swimming gear. As I have zero plans to swim this year (C-19 still very high locally) then I’ll give that a try. It’s low scent as well so no odd smells wafting from the bits… Saying that, the last show I went to could have used some nice smellies!

    #163631
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    Well I really need to sort the cupboards out  Turns out there is way more stuff (i.e. junk I thought I was interested in doing) then I expected BUT I did find two other materials that may make the crud:

    Flex paste is a real pain to get smooth as it sticks to EVERYTHING and normally your knife pulls a little thread of it away at the end.  To make matters worse, it drys from the outside and you cannot wait a little and smooth the peaks off. Sanding is possible normally but not in the corners where I want the mess.  I’ve not tried colouring this before application but I know it takes paint well but needs two good coats as it’s BRIGHT white.

    The gel may work if the grains are not to prominent (not fought the lid off yet) – it’s been at least 5 years since this saw the light of a modelling area!  My memory hints that this took brown paint before application fine as it was used for bases at one point.

    So rather than the QRS (mental health note – avoidance strikes again) I’ll have a play with these and some paint this weekend.

     

    #163641
    willz
    Participant

    Nice paint job Andrew, I had some Galeria smooth paste but did not seal the lid properly and it dried out.  Put cling film over the top then the screw on the lid, this should stop the air getting at it.

    #163644
    Steven Francis
    Participant

    On the paint front have you got any model train shops near? In Ipswich we have one that stocks Mig paints at a very reasonable price and they will order in what they have not got. They also carry the related weathering things which look quite good. Try a Google and you may be surprised as I tend to find these out of town in residential areas

    #163698
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    On the paint front have you got any model train shops near?

    these out of town in residential areas

    Thats a thought – I know Hull had a couple and a small town called Caistor had one before lockdown though none of them where on the ‘net (and I do not Facebook) buts it’s an idea. My issue is I live out of town and any major town is 30+ minutes drive on a good day and that adds up cost wise for ‘the odd thing’.

    I’ve just had a little play and the result can be best described as POOP! I should have hunted up a better brown rather than use the Vallejo Green Brown that was handy…

    So first impressions of the three materials:

    The talc was a bit messy to get out the pot as I could not get the top off but a bit of tape or glue can fix that. It needed about three times the paint to mix up the same quantity of gunk but I do not think that’s an issue given the volume I want for the bottoms of the scenery. Took the colour well and went nice and gritty.

    The Flex Paste was exactly as I remembered – sticky and peaks galore. Coloured very well BUT went runny and smooth as soon as the paint mixed in.

    So the wet look, with medium / talc / paste (left to right) is:

    For me, talc is currently winning but it may settle when dry. Cracks will be fine but that colour is soooo wrong for this as the base but I’m not fussed as it’s a test and I’ll repaint by hand this one.

    Not sure what colour to use – black, brown, metallic, blue, green or orange / rust spring to mind – think I will spray a scrap bit of plastic blue and mix up the ‘winning’ gunk up with all the colours and see what’s best next the week.

    #163724
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    Well that’s a surprise, after sitting half the night and all morning in a reasonably warm room the flex paste and medium gel are still soft and sticky. The good news though is the talc is nice and dry.  It’s set so solid I could not easily chip off any with my fingernail.

     

    #164570
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    As a forced change of object (yup – put the walls away somewhere safe) I thought I would have a go at thin lines…

    I was not surprised that I’m not steady (well calm) enough for the thin lines but I did not realise one major ‘quirk’ till I saw it and now I cannot unsee it!!!

    At least I did not use gold or yellow on this part.

    One issue I need to sort is the red colour – it’s a cheap car primer spray that works great but I cannot get any small pots of it so currently I’ve no easy way of touching it up. Given the poor result of my wet paper clean up attempt I may try and spray the paint into a plastic cup and find some way to clean it off the brush. My other thought is to paint the side in blue and just pick out the larger straps.

    #164607
    Darkest Star Games
    Participant

    Perhaps instead you can add a little more orange to it to look like rust where you may have overrun the silver, or maybe green too liik  like disimilar metals oxidizing where they tough?

    "I saw this in a cartoon once, but I'm pretty sure I can do it..."

    #164612
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    Perhaps instead you can add a little more orange to it to look like rust where you may have overrun the silver, or maybe green too liik like disimilar metals oxidizing where they tough?

    My issue (other than the logo) is that I have no real idea what colour to paint these ends. I may turn them blue or just respray the lot in a different colour

    I could go blue and repaint the silver gold and then simulate damage in the area with rust (as per the buildings and your idea) esp as this is the top of the ramp that hits the ground lots of rust would be right.

    #164631
    Mr. Average
    Participant

    I love how people who do this incredible work that far outclasses my own refer to it as “slapping some paint on some plastic.” These look great!

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