Home Forums Terrain and Scenery I slapped some paint on some plastic

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  • #163411
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    Not up to painting figures yet but I’ve dug out some GW terrain bits and had a play (and enjoyed it):

    Quite happy over the grotty look but next time I’ll look to add a bit more rust after the varnish as that dulled it down more than I expected. I think that will be better than adding lots more before the varnish.

    One thing I am stuck on though is adding ‘sludge’ in the edges / joints. I’ve tried lots of Nuln Oil and though it gives the colour but lacks the bulk. I’ve seen ‘mud’ used on tank tracks and diorama bases but not seen a black oily version but maybe a dark version exists?

    #163417
    Fred B
    Participant

    Oooh, I love how it came out. The contrast between the (tardis?) blue and rust and copper/bronze is great!

    I don’t have a good sludge recipe, but would love to learn your rust recipe – love the look and would like to recreate it on some silos I am working on.

    #163423
    Steve Johnson
    Participant

    They look great Andrew.

    #163444
    Mike
    Keymaster

    I’ve tried lots of Nuln Oil and though it gives the colour but lacks the bulk

    Weathering pigments/pastes?

    Mix in some PVA?

    Nice rust btw.

    #163445
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    Thank you for the praise – other than the blocks, these are the first things really I’ve painted this year without giving up in disgust with my efforts.

    Oooh, I love how it came out. The contrast between the (tardis?) blue and rust and copper/bronze is great! I don’t have a good sludge recipe, but would love to learn your rust recipe – love the look and would like to recreate it on some silos I am working on.

    The blue is an old old tin of GW Macragge Blue and the rust is a base of GW Typhus Corrosion, Ryza Rust and Nuln Oil.  The Typhus is painted on with a normal brush with the Rust then scrubbed and dry brushed with an old stiff paint brush with a flat end – at one point (many years ago) the brush was a ‘Filbert’ but the middle has worn down so much the closest new brush would be a flat or bright brush ( link to big picture).

    The tip of the brush is very firm and its a heavy dry brush at the bottom and a scrub higher up.  The Nuln Oil flattens the very bright spots as does the varnish.

    I’ve tried lots of Nuln Oil and though it gives the colour but lacks the bulk

    Weathering pigments/pastes? Mix in some PVA? Nice rust btw.

    Thats a thought – I avoided pigments for years after seeing some IPMS tanks that had been smudged while being set up but had not thought of adding PVA.

    My main issue is availability – locally we have a limited selection of Vallejo paint (normal and limited game colours), Scunthorpe does not have anything other than GW, Grimsby had GW and Vallejo last time I looked and Hull has a £3 bridge fee + park and ride. Having just missed adding it to my ‘birthday list’ I hate to get stung for P&P at the similar cost to the pot (yup cheapskate). GW has Sylvaneth Bark or Dawnstone but I do not think they will bulk up well going by the texture of the rust.

    Hmm – I wonder if we have any chalk around (I know the school where my wife works uses smart boards only) that I could scrape and colour? If not I maybe able to get a cheap box of kids chalk locally (I assume its still sold as I see children using it on the pavement locally – Ooo mug them? No they may beat me up).

    #163452
    bobm
    Participant

    To bulk up paints or pigments add talc.

    Vallejo do a range of coloured pastes.  I’ve got a wet mud one that is easy to work with.

    There's 10 types of people in the world. Those who understand binary and those who don't.....

    #163453
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    To bulk up paints or pigments add talc. Vallejo do a range of coloured pastes. I’ve got a wet mud one that is easy to work with.

    Now that’s great timing – while sorting out my bottom drawer I came across a shaker of talc in the swimming gear. As I have zero plans to swim this year (C-19 still very high locally) then I’ll give that a try. It’s low scent as well so no odd smells wafting from the bits… Saying that, the last show I went to could have used some nice smellies!

    #163631
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    Well I really need to sort the cupboards out  Turns out there is way more stuff (i.e. junk I thought I was interested in doing) then I expected BUT I did find two other materials that may make the crud:

    Flex paste is a real pain to get smooth as it sticks to EVERYTHING and normally your knife pulls a little thread of it away at the end.  To make matters worse, it drys from the outside and you cannot wait a little and smooth the peaks off. Sanding is possible normally but not in the corners where I want the mess.  I’ve not tried colouring this before application but I know it takes paint well but needs two good coats as it’s BRIGHT white.

    The gel may work if the grains are not to prominent (not fought the lid off yet) – it’s been at least 5 years since this saw the light of a modelling area!  My memory hints that this took brown paint before application fine as it was used for bases at one point.

    So rather than the QRS (mental health note – avoidance strikes again) I’ll have a play with these and some paint this weekend.

     

    #163641
    willz
    Participant

    Nice paint job Andrew, I had some Galeria smooth paste but did not seal the lid properly and it dried out.  Put cling film over the top then the screw on the lid, this should stop the air getting at it.

    #163644
    Steven Francis
    Participant

    On the paint front have you got any model train shops near? In Ipswich we have one that stocks Mig paints at a very reasonable price and they will order in what they have not got. They also carry the related weathering things which look quite good. Try a Google and you may be surprised as I tend to find these out of town in residential areas

    #163698
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    On the paint front have you got any model train shops near?

    these out of town in residential areas

    Thats a thought – I know Hull had a couple and a small town called Caistor had one before lockdown though none of them where on the ‘net (and I do not Facebook) buts it’s an idea. My issue is I live out of town and any major town is 30+ minutes drive on a good day and that adds up cost wise for ‘the odd thing’.

    I’ve just had a little play and the result can be best described as POOP! I should have hunted up a better brown rather than use the Vallejo Green Brown that was handy…

    So first impressions of the three materials:

    The talc was a bit messy to get out the pot as I could not get the top off but a bit of tape or glue can fix that. It needed about three times the paint to mix up the same quantity of gunk but I do not think that’s an issue given the volume I want for the bottoms of the scenery. Took the colour well and went nice and gritty.

    The Flex Paste was exactly as I remembered – sticky and peaks galore. Coloured very well BUT went runny and smooth as soon as the paint mixed in.

    So the wet look, with medium / talc / paste (left to right) is:

    For me, talc is currently winning but it may settle when dry. Cracks will be fine but that colour is soooo wrong for this as the base but I’m not fussed as it’s a test and I’ll repaint by hand this one.

    Not sure what colour to use – black, brown, metallic, blue, green or orange / rust spring to mind – think I will spray a scrap bit of plastic blue and mix up the ‘winning’ gunk up with all the colours and see what’s best next the week.

    #163724
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    Well that’s a surprise, after sitting half the night and all morning in a reasonably warm room the flex paste and medium gel are still soft and sticky. The good news though is the talc is nice and dry.  It’s set so solid I could not easily chip off any with my fingernail.

     

    #164570
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    As a forced change of object (yup – put the walls away somewhere safe) I thought I would have a go at thin lines…

    I was not surprised that I’m not steady (well calm) enough for the thin lines but I did not realise one major ‘quirk’ till I saw it and now I cannot unsee it!!!

    At least I did not use gold or yellow on this part.

    One issue I need to sort is the red colour – it’s a cheap car primer spray that works great but I cannot get any small pots of it so currently I’ve no easy way of touching it up. Given the poor result of my wet paper clean up attempt I may try and spray the paint into a plastic cup and find some way to clean it off the brush. My other thought is to paint the side in blue and just pick out the larger straps.

    #164607
    Darkest Star Games
    Participant

    Perhaps instead you can add a little more orange to it to look like rust where you may have overrun the silver, or maybe green too liik  like disimilar metals oxidizing where they tough?

    "I saw this in a cartoon once, but I'm pretty sure I can do it..."

    #164612
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    Perhaps instead you can add a little more orange to it to look like rust where you may have overrun the silver, or maybe green too liik like disimilar metals oxidizing where they tough?

    My issue (other than the logo) is that I have no real idea what colour to paint these ends. I may turn them blue or just respray the lot in a different colour

    I could go blue and repaint the silver gold and then simulate damage in the area with rust (as per the buildings and your idea) esp as this is the top of the ramp that hits the ground lots of rust would be right.

    #164631
    Mr. Average
    Participant

    I love how people who do this incredible work that far outclasses my own refer to it as “slapping some paint on some plastic.” These look great!

    #166209
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    Thank you all for the comments and ideas – I finally got the box completed about 3AM this morning…

    The yellow ‘light spill’ really did not work – I think I should have used grey / pink or white first and then added the yellow but not going back now and touching up. And yes, I redid the arches in gold (shock, horror – WHY????)

    I’ve undercoated the GW ‘plasma’ pipes in the same red but that may have been a mistake given that I wanted grot and the brown does not show up.  The Typhus Corrosion is OK (as is the Ryza Rust) but I fancied trying sponging Burnt Umber and Burnt Sienna as rust due to the amount I need… The other problem is the amount of detail – NO WAY will I do all of that 🙂

    Not sure yet – going to give a few ideas a try on the smallest part and see.

    I love how people who do this incredible work that far outclasses my own refer to it as “slapping some paint on some plastic.” These look great!

    TBH I have lost a lot of my skills due to not painting for years. The best tips I can give are:

    • Do not spend too much time watching videos on YouTube or reading hints / tips on the web or from magazines – it just upsets me that I cannot do that and befuddles the mind with 100s of techniques. KEEP IT SIMPLE (I like Sonic Sledgehammer as he does simple but great)
    • Do not buy expensive fancy brushes to start with – I’m using eM-4 basics BUT hate them as they slip in my fingers. I prefer natural hair and TBH found GW / Army Painter fine as long as you check for stray hairs / bent tips. Do not go too small, I have a ’00’ for eyes but normally use size ‘1’, ‘2’ and ‘4’ as I cannot do fine work  currently – try all the different sizes you have to understand the tip and the side and how the paint flows off (and how much they hold).
    • Do not get suckered into the latest paint craze (sorry Duncan) – Vallejo or GW are fine and available all over – a basic set will do fine to start with. I use Halford and Boyes car paints for primer – try black / white / grey and see how that changes the paint – just spray the model the same all over to start with.
    • Learn to mix paint with water and each other – I use old CDs as a pallet (was in IT – have lots) others like a wet pallet (I have the components for one but not tried it yet – keep chickening out TBH). Colour theory is great but learn to put any colour on the model first and not worry if it clashes
    • Start with basic brush and paint control on large areas with single colours, then mix and then thin – look at the results of bottle thick through very watered down. Just use a brush to measure out the paint and water.
    • Use a shade to add depth (Nuln Oil and Agrax Earthshade are classics)
    • Use a single highlight on the folds / edges – try before and after the wash to see the difference, then try two highlights and a single wash
    • Try dry brushing on an undercoated model – it will go wrong at first but respray and retry
    • Do not spend hours looking for and trying to correct errors – leave the model for a night, go back ONCE to touch up and then play with it (that really does not read right…)
    • Do not drink the paint brush water

    (Sorry do not mean to preach – its handy for me to refresh MY mind with the basics)

    Key is to enjoy and not treat it as a chore, It’s taken me 6 weeks to do this one container as my mind could not decide what I was going to do and panicked. I still have not got the buildings out of the bag as I cannot face them. Look at my small game – I am getting great fun from that and the figures (and terrain) are so basic only unpainted could be simpler.

    #166274
    bobm
    Participant

    Glad that my talc tip worked for you…

    There's 10 types of people in the world. Those who understand binary and those who don't.....

    #166297
    Steven Francis
    Participant

    Great tips there and totally get behind all of them. So far I have watched a grand total of 1 painting video on YouTube which was very much a basic getting started one.

    Looking forward to seeing a few more bits of scenery appearing.

    #166300
    Cacique Caribe
    Participant

    Andrew

    Stunning work.  Well done!

    Dan

    Dan
    Loads of WIPs: https://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/albums/with/72157710630529376

    #166343
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    I think I’ve worked out what to do with the pipes. I thought about spraying the undercoat onto plastic and using the pool as a touch up but I have no cleaner (I think white spirt may do but the can has zero advice) and do not want to make a mess on the dining room table TBH.

    So, I’m going to paint them with a wash of the Burnt Sienna that’s very similar in shade and tone to the spray.  This will then let me try the dry brush or normal painting of the joints and control wires while being able to touch up the inevitable mistakes to match the rest of the pipe.

    Hopefully, by the end of the pipes I may have got a bit of control of my mind back without the worry of slips 🙂

     

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