Home Forums Modern Just pulled the trigger on 3mm

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  • #15553
    Ivan Sorensen
    Participant

    Russkies first (Because of course).

    4 MiG27, 4 Hind, 7x 120mm mortar, 5 Sagger teams, 5 SA-9, 15 BMP2, a bunch of infantry, 15 T72, 5 trucks and 5 BRDM2.

    With shipping in the US, 40 bucks. Not shabby at all and felt good grabbing a bit of everything 🙂

     

    I figure I’ll base the infantry with two BMP per stand, plus some infantry, tanks with 3 per stand and then we’ll see from there.

     

    Nordic Weasel Games
    https://www.wargamevault.com/browse/pub/5701/Nordic-Weasel-Games?src=browse5701

    #15557
    Quaker
    Member

    Only a company? 😛

    3mm is good as long as you don’t go crazy like me and try and do large formations at 1:1 (including infantry), that gets expensive.

    #15558
    Ivan Sorensen
    Participant

    This is the “dip the toes in the pool” moment. 1-to-1 would be wonderful but I need company-stands, so probably not practical. Though it’d let me play platoon stands in 1-to-1 🙂

    Nordic Weasel Games
    https://www.wargamevault.com/browse/pub/5701/Nordic-Weasel-Games?src=browse5701

    #15559
    Mr. Average
    Participant

    Welcome to the party!  I love 3mm, and play successfully at 1-to-1 scale.  Sounds like you got a nice little set, and I think you’ll be surprised how well they work out!

    #15561
    Ivan Sorensen
    Participant

    Yeah, I am very excited about them 🙂

    Nordic Weasel Games
    https://www.wargamevault.com/browse/pub/5701/Nordic-Weasel-Games?src=browse5701

    #15643
    Marcin Kazmierczak
    Participant

    Welcome to the Dark Side 😉

    Marcin
    Oddzial Osmy

    #15656
    shelldrake
    Participant

    I also pulled the trigger yesterday on 3mm myself.  I only ordered a few pack so I can see how easily I can paint them, and how to base them, and then I intend to go ahead with an Australian Brigade (thank you O8 for making the bushmaster!) and an Indonesian Brigade for an Australian invasion what if.

    If I like what I see and can paint them ok, I will build up my forces, including helos and planes.

    #15657
    Ivan Sorensen
    Participant

    Nice, we can share some experiences when our relative packages arrive. It was seeing the little planes and choppers that won me over, to be honest.

    Now I regret not getting a bunch of terrain as well but one thing at a time I guess 🙂

    Nordic Weasel Games
    https://www.wargamevault.com/browse/pub/5701/Nordic-Weasel-Games?src=browse5701

    #15666
    shelldrake
    Participant

    It seems I have two orders coming – one by mistake, and the other intended, so I will have more figures to paint up than I first thought.

    The helicopters in 3mm look fantastic too – and I can get all the ones I need for Australia and Indonesia, so I am very happy about that.

    As I play ‘plane war games’ too, I already have some jets I can use for the game, and they are a lovely scale to paint up… just never having done infantry or tanks in the scale I am wondering how well I can paint them.

    From blogs posts made by others on the scale, it seems the way you base them is just as important, as you want to be able to see the figures and not hide them in the base.

    I will have a crack at making scenery for the minis once I have the figures… no point getting ahead of myself just yet, but I do have some ideas in mind.

    #15667
    Ivan Sorensen
    Participant

    I tend to use static grass and such pretty sparingly but I imagine you are quite correct, it’d be easy for your tanks to vanish completely in the foliage 🙂

     

    Nordic Weasel Games
    https://www.wargamevault.com/browse/pub/5701/Nordic-Weasel-Games?src=browse5701

    #15673

    The main problem with O8 is that the figures are SO detailed that you can get lost in painting details nobody will ever see. Be careful about this: that way lies madness.

    Intense colors, light colors and basing that contrasts with your color scheme. Also, don’t use too much or too many different kinds of flock on the basing. In fact, you can get away with just painting your bases.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    #15681
    Mike
    Keymaster

    Be careful about this: that way lies madness.

    Noooo that way lies true enlightenment and joy.

    😀

    #15784
    Ivan Sorensen
    Participant

    Got my package today and they are lovely. Amazingly detailed too. I just realized I don’t have anything to base them on though, so I’ll need to figure that out.

     

    Nordic Weasel Games
    https://www.wargamevault.com/browse/pub/5701/Nordic-Weasel-Games?src=browse5701

    #15785

    I use posterboard, Ivan, after having tried many other things. If you can afford to buy precut bases, go for it. But posterboard works very nicely, is cheap, takes paint like a charm and is very easy to work with. It also doesn’t seem to warp, but then again, I ise small bases. If you are going to be doing 3 inch bases, you might want something more rigid.

     

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    #15786
    Ivan Sorensen
    Participant

    I need to ponder it a bitonce I figure out how many guys to put on each stand.

    Nordic Weasel Games
    https://www.wargamevault.com/browse/pub/5701/Nordic-Weasel-Games?src=browse5701

    #15788
    shelldrake
    Participant

    I am thinking of one infantry strip (piece?) being a section, so I will put three of them of them on a base (+HQ?) to represent a platoon, and 3 – 4 vehicles on a base to represent a troop.

     

    That is my thinking anyway – I still need to get mine in the mail, which will be at least a week + before I get them.

     

    I need to see the minis before deciding exactly what to use as a base though, but I have some things in mind.

    #15789
    Angel Barracks
    Moderator

    Go for steel, at that scale a nice thin steel base adds weight and looks nicer as the figures don’t look they are standing on some small plateau.

    #15790
    shelldrake
    Participant

    Go for steel, at that scale a nice thin steel base adds weight and looks nicer as the figures don’t look they are standing on some small plateau.

    How easy are steel bases to pick up by the sides whilst on the table? I play with a friend that has arthritis in his fingers, so am looking to get a balance of thickness, weight and practicality.

    #15792
    Angel Barracks
    Moderator

    Hmmm dunno.
    The steel I use is 1mm thick as opposed to 2mm mdf which I guess a lot of people use.
    I never pick models up by the base though.

    I have just tried with my 2mm mdf, 1.5mm plastic and 2mm mdf.

    2.00mm MDF I can pick up touching just the base.
    1.5mm plastic, too heavy as I have big vehicles on those bases and can’t get enough purchase to lift with only touching the base, if I concentrate I can but it is a pain.
    1.0mm steel, the bases are not much bigger than the vehicles on them so even if I could grasp them, my fingers being squishy overhang the top of the base and touch the model.

    I guess it depends why you base your vehicles, which is a whole other conversation. (Which I will go and start now!)

    🙂

    #15813
    Mr. Average
    Participant

    I use 1mm polystyrene plastic with a base label, and a bit of talus material for buildup.  It’s very tedious to do and I’m looking to simplify the process, perhaps with a bit of putty or plaster instead.  But 1mm plastic with the corners cropped gives a great visual aspect on the table.  Of course, I base at 1-1, so scale up for best results.  If you’re going to base a platoon on one piece, I recommend 1 3/4″  to 2″ square.

    #15841
    Ivan Sorensen
    Participant

    Thanks for sharing, those look great!

    Really puts the stupid “Might as well use counters” argument to death.

    Nordic Weasel Games
    https://www.wargamevault.com/browse/pub/5701/Nordic-Weasel-Games?src=browse5701

    #15872

     

    Well, I have tried pretty much everything, starting with precut 1mm plastic bases, moving to steel washers and then steel precut bases, then do-it-yourself plastic bases, moving back to painted (but not flocked) pre-made plastic bases before finally settling on my 1.5 mm posterboard scheme, which I love.

    Here are its pluses.

    1) Unlike steel and plastic, it takes and holds paint marvelously well and doesn’t chip, ever.

    2) It is much, much cheaper than pre-made bases.

    3) It is very light.

    4) It can be easily cut to any size and shape which you may desire.

    5) It can be easily picked up without touching the miniature.

    6) Unlike steel, it doesn’t rust.

    Its only drawback, as far as I can see, is that it isn’t magnetic. But that’s not an issue because 3mm is so small and light. Pack your figs in a plano box, stuff some foam above it, and Bobbie’s yer mamma’s bubba. Another potential benefit of steel bases is that they give some heft to 3mm figs. But I have never found that to be a problem.

    Note that my bases are, at most, 3omm x 15mm. Most are 20mm x 12,5mm. There is thus little chance they will warp. If you make 3 inch x 3 inch bases with posterboard, that might not be true. I would probably use plastic or steel in that case.

    Originally, I thought 1.5mm might be too thick for this scale, but I think it actually looks BETTER than thin metal because it further helps delineate the miniature on the board.

    The trick is to paint the base a dark soil color that combines with the backing color of your mat or terrain scheme. Then you flock a lighter color and paint your minis to contrast with the flock.

    For my sci-fi collection and 3mm Napoleonics, I paint the bases terracotta swirled when still wet with papaya. Then I partially flock the base with yellow flocking and — very sparsely — place a few clumps of light green corse flock as bushes, here and there. For the Napoleonics, I use this to distinguish battalions (i.e. First battalion stands get one big clump, second battalion gets two smaller, etc).

    I am entirely pleased with this scheme, which is more than I can say for they others.

    For woodlands/green/temperate, I think I’d go chocolate paint, swirled with tan, light green flocking and dark green bushes.

    Three things I can’t stress enough, however:

    1) Paint light and bright (never use black as a base — mid grey at most).

    2) Flock and base in contrast to your paint scheme.

    3) Use flocking sparingly! Too much or too many types and your figures will be lost in the basing noise.

    My favorite and most successfully based figures so far are my People’s Revolutionary Army figs, which are light green on yellow and terracotta bases. IMHO, these look a treat on the table:

     

    When doing moderns or WWII,  you obviously can’t go the “Circus wagon” route (as PhD Leadhead uncharitably calls it. You can and should, however, paint twice as light as you think you should. For olive green, I’d base white and WASH olive. This is the easy way to bring out the details on O8’s fantastic figs.

    Another way to go is to paint darker, but neon highlight. So you paint an olive green, but highlight the edges two shades lighter and yellower. This takes patience and a steady hand or it looks crap. Washing over white and dot and slashing details is the best way to go if you’re in a hurry, IMHO.

    If you are beginning, buy one pack extra of your favorite vehicle and practice on it until you get the scheme and touch you like. It’s cheap and will save you a lot of grief later. Please trust my experience on this one.

    If you fuck up, chant this mantra: “It’s only 3mm. A pack costs half of what one 28mm figure does. Fuck it.” Strip ’em or, hell, just toss them or give them to children to play with and start over.

     

     

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    #15930
    shelldrake
    Participant

    Cheers Thaddeus – some good tips there – thank you

    #16039
    shelldrake
    Participant

    The first part of my 3mm mix up arrived today – absolutely cracking minis – bigger than I had imagined (for what ever reason that was) and the detail is very high.

    For my initial order I have some infantry and some Bushmasters & Marders so that I can play out an Indonesian invasion of Australia.

     

    #16040
    Ivan Sorensen
    Participant

    I totally hear you. I actually thought they’d be smaller too. Very nice detail indeed.

    Nordic Weasel Games
    https://www.wargamevault.com/browse/pub/5701/Nordic-Weasel-Games?src=browse5701

    #16225
    Ivan Sorensen
    Participant

    Realizing that the bases I got are a little too small to fit 3 tanks, so it won’t be 1-to-1 scale.

    So 2 tanks for armour units, 2 BMP and 5 infantry for motor rifles.

    Scattering the odd individual RPG guy here and there.

    My mortar team has 3 mortars, a truck and an RPG guy. Nice little diorama effect.

     

    I’ll pop up some pictures of them unpainted tomorrow.

    Nordic Weasel Games
    https://www.wargamevault.com/browse/pub/5701/Nordic-Weasel-Games?src=browse5701

    #16226
    shelldrake
    Participant

    I am tinkering with 40mm wide bases so I can go with the 1:1 for tanks and vehicles, and 4 figures for infantry per section/squad on the bases.  So depending on the nation, I might have anything from 2 to 4 tanks/vehicles  and 12 – 16 infantry on a base.

    Before buying the bases I need I am making cardboard bases to test and adjust the minis and to see how many bases I can fit in my playing area before it becomes too crowded.

    • This reply was modified 6 years, 6 months ago by shelldrake. Reason: fixed up typo
    #16228
    Ivan Sorensen
    Participant

    Yeah, I should have done that 🙂

    I ended up with far more infantry than expected, so I’ll be making some non-motorized infantry stands as well, with a MG/AGL and 15 infantry on each.

     

    Figured a helicopter and an infantry strip will be good to represent airmobile troops.

     

    Also doing a couple bases with only one strip of infantry, to use as foot recon, special forces types and similar.

    Nordic Weasel Games
    https://www.wargamevault.com/browse/pub/5701/Nordic-Weasel-Games?src=browse5701

    #16410
    Mr. Average
    Participant

    Since you’re in the basing phase from the look of it, you might be interested to hear that I’ve just worked out (with Marcin’s generous information and guidance) a very attractive basing scheme. I’m out of the house now but I’ll post a photo later. Basically, using lightweight wall plaster, like patching spackle, trowel a layer onto the base very thinly, then texture it with an old toothbrush. With some good blending of earth-colored paint, you get a superb and very solid “dirt” base that is not as busy as the heavy texture you get from using talus or model railroad gravel, and has great contrast. Saves a lot of time, too, and doesn’t involve glue or out-scaled texture materials. I’m really exceptionally excited about how well the technique works, and will post a step-by-step this evening, if it would be helpful to a fellow-3mm scaler.

    • This reply was modified 6 years, 6 months ago by Mr. Average.
    #16418
    shelldrake
    Participant

    Thanks for the basing info – some photos with a step by step would be fantastic if you are able to post them please.

    #16423
    Ivan Sorensen
    Participant

    Appreciate the suggestions. I’ve used wall plaster on bases in the past though I hadn’t thought about the toothbrush method.

    Nordic Weasel Games
    https://www.wargamevault.com/browse/pub/5701/Nordic-Weasel-Games?src=browse5701

    #16425
    Mike
    Keymaster

    Interloper alert…

    I use this stuff:

    click me click me

    Brush it on and paint when dry.

    #16429
    Mr. Average
    Participant

    This is the work-in-progress: technically not “Modern” but in the conversation thread anyway: it’s a T228 MBT platoon from the 13th Tank Guards Regiment, of the Zaporoskiye People’s Democratic Republic (ZPDR).  Some touch-up is needed now (tank markings, gun barrels, final highlights, and on the base, tread-marks on the mud), but you get the picture of the basing.  It’s plaster on 1.5mm laser-cut plywood, 1 1/2″ square, with a 5/16″ wide label bearing game data for Future War Commander.

    If I can work up the process into a followable form I’ll post a separate thread with the step-by-step.

    #16430
    shelldrake
    Participant

    That looks the part – thanks

    #16431
    Mr. Average
    Participant

    Thanks, man!  Compared to the example I posted earlier (the US M60 platoon) the tanks are already far more recognizable, with the silhouettes standing in much higher contrast.  The talus I used in the earlier version was too busy.  At scale, they’d be the size of cobblestones, and everywhere.  I’m MUCH more satisfied with the plaster putty version.

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