Masking Tape

[Mike]

I am painting a fair few straight lines/bands/stripes on my buildings and am using masking tape.
However very occasionally it pulls off the paint underneath.
Couple that with the tape being for DIY it is quite wide.

Can anyone recommend some thin masking tape that does not adhere to the model at all please?

[Geof Downton]

I use either some rather pricey but very thin stuff made by Tamiya, or the vinyl tape made for painting cars rather than window frames.

One who puts on his armour should not boast like one who takes it off.
Ahab, King of Israel; 1 Kings 20:11

[Steve Johnson]

You can buy low tack masking tape from car repair/paint shops which does help a bit. We tend to de-tack normal tape first by patting on our clothes, workbench etc, which does help reduce this problem. Have a play around and see what works for you, but the issue could also be that the buildings haven’t been degreased enough or that the paint isn’t fully dry.

In terms of thin tape, we use normal 1″/25mm tape, lay it on a cutting mat and then cut to the required size. Works remarkably well.

Hope this helps?

[Mr. Average]

We have stuff called Frogtape in the US that works very well. It won’t adhere to primers. You should make sure the model is very clean before priming though, as that can help the base coat to adhere and not pull off with the mask.

[irishserb]

I use a 3/4 inch wide white paper masking tape available at artist supply stores, and marketed as “artist’s” masking tape under different names over the years.  When I need narrow pieces, I place a strip of it on a sheet of plastic (I have a piece of 1/8 inch polyolefin for this purpose, works as a nice cutting board), and cut it with a straight edge to the required width.  Don’t know if it is available on your of the water, but I’ve never had issues with it pully up primer of paint.

[greg954]

Be careful with any masking tape you buy in trade counters/DIY places. I’ve used low tack stuff and it’s turned out not to be low enough. Also had paint bleed issues and that’s with Frog tape. However, it must be said that this was all related to plaster substrates and not to do with hobby stuff.

Test first, make sure it’s very low tack and and primers have adhered correctly. Water base paints can take a long time to fully cure and reach maximum hardness. Again, this is based on trade paints and not hobby.

[Norm S]

Even low tack should only be left in place for a short time.

I am wondering whether artists watercolour masking fluid would work. It is a sort of liquid latex, brush it on, it will dry (cure) quickly, you then paint normally with the masking fluid protecting the under-surface from being painted. Once the paint is dry, rub away the masking fluid with a finger / thumb. It’s design purpose is to allow watercolourists to preserve the bright white paper in places so that some highlights can be shown when it is rubbed away.

I am guessing the hard bit will be using a straight edge to paint against to get the masking fluid down, as pulling the straight edge away, may break the surface tension of the fluid and drag it while it is still wet – still until you get a better suggestion it may be worth a Google.

EDIT … Oh use an old brush, which you can rub in soap first if you want, as masking fluid is not the friend of your posh brushes and is difficult to get it out of the bristles – some artists apply it with a pen (like a calligraphy pen nib)

[Rhoderic]

Norm S wrote:

I am wondering whether artists watercolour masking fluid would work. It is a sort of liquid latex, brush it on, it will dry (cure) quickly, you then paint normally with the masking fluid protecting the under-surface from being painted. Once the paint is dry, rub away the masking fluid with a finger / thumb. It’s design purpose is to allow watercolourists to preserve the bright white paper in places so that some highlights can be shown when it is rubbed away.

FWIW, versions of this are also made specifically for fine scale modellers and wargamers by companies like Vallejo (theirs is called “Liquid Mask”). Might just be the exact same product in a different bottle, though.

EDIT: After watching a Youtube video of Vallejo Liquid Mask uses, I’d probably still just stick with low-tack masking tapes for straight lines on buildings and suchlike.

[Private Snafu]

Blue tape should help.  Find it at your equivalent of Home Despot.  I like the idea of doing a coat of sealer midway through painting (the appropriate time).

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