Home Forums Ambush Alley Games Force on Force Newbie Question: Units of Measurement on Campain Maps

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  • #70191
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Hi,

    I am (very ;-)) new to FoF and are currently in the process of preparing a universal map to play my first easy scenarios and would like to ask a few questions:

    1. If I understand correctly, the maps in your publications in the 2’x2′ and 3’x3′ range are best used with  15mm figurines. So are they in about 1/100 scale?
    2. The maps in your publications are using a grid which divides any 1’x1′ square into 1/8s, but I have seen 1/12s in other instances, too. What is the purpose of this divisor and what does it resemble in reality?
    3. To keep starting cost down, I would like to use 3D-printed “coins” with standard troop symbols instead of figurines for the start. Has anybody did so and can share his experiences?
    4. Since I am actually lacking opponent players (more of a D&D crowd around me here ;-), is there any online version (e.g. on Roll20 or somewhere) of FoF available?

    Thanks in advance for your help…!

     

    Waldo

    #70196
    John D Salt
    Participant

    On point 3, I would suggest that, unless you somehow have access to remarkably cheap printing, it will be more economical yet to buy soft plastic 1/72nd figures. The Plastic Soldier Review http://www.plasticsoldierreview.com/Index.aspx lets you see exactly what you get in a box before you invest a few quid.

    Even if you decide to stick with counters, I would suggest making your own by mounting printed paper on greyboard or thin foamboard is going to be the cheapest approach possible (always assuming you have access to cheap printing and can stick things down and cut things out). A nice half-way house between counters and miniatures is to use paper figures — essentially, “stand-up” counters — as shown on the Junior General http://www.juniorgeneral.org/ page.

    All the best,

    John.

    #70217
    maggico
    Participant
    1. 15mm is about 1/100 (exactly 1/107). I play in 1/72 using 3″x3″ maps.
    2. For my purpose I don’t care about minigrid. Use your ideas to build the scenario, using the map as a base.
    3. Like J. Salt said juniorgeneral is a good site for paper soldiers. If you want go in 3D, 1/72 is a cheap solution.
    4. http://www.ambushalleygames.net/force-on-force-play-aids/ . here you find a manual of solo-coop rules.
    • This reply was modified 3 years, 11 months ago by maggico.
    #70298
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    John, Maggico,

    thank you for pointing me in the right direction, I think I now got a grip on the dimensions and can start building my very first scenario. I scaled the map to 2’x2′ in my CAD system and it falls in very well with a 15mm figurine (approximated by the grey cylinder ;-))

     

    3D Concept View

     

    #70300
    maggico
    Participant

    Ehmmm….beautiful!!

    #73402
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    Waldo’s question came to mind for me as well, when I re-read the base rules this week as prep for diving into the advanced rules. At the miniatures club where I got my 1st exposure to FoF, the Game Masters always used 15mm. My collection of figurines and models  however is strictly 20mm (1/72). I’m considering running my own scenarios at my club, so it’s got me thinking…

    … I play in 1/72 using 3″x3″ maps.

    When you play scenarios at that scale, do you keep all the figurine-related measurements (cohesion, tactical movement, rapid movement, optimal range, ambush range, etc.) as written, or do you make an adjustment?

    I’ve read in the book in the discussion about scales, that the measurements discussed in the book should work for either 15mm or 20mm, but I’d really like to hear from someone who’s running the game at the latter scale.

     

     

    #73467
    maggico
    Participant

    I keep all measurement as written. In 1/72 works. The only adjustement is on the map, that is 3″x3″, instead of 2″x2″.

    #73472
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    I keep all measurement as written. In 1/72 works. The only adjustement is on the map, that is 3″x3″, instead of 2″x2″.

    Many thanks for clarifying that.

    When you state you use a map size of 3″x3″, do you mean 3 feet x 3 feet or something else? If you do mean that as increasing the map  by 1/2 foot on all sides (3 ft x 3 ft), do you compensate for the original placement of significant land features by readjusing/expanding the distance between them? The reason I ask, is because I often game on 33″x33″ maps for other miniature games and would prefer to play FoF on 3 ft x 3 ft maps too, but not having played the system before at 1/72, I’m not sure if I should reposition land features when going the extra foot?

    #73537
    maggico
    Participant

    3 feet x 3 feet. Or, in metric, 90 cm x 90 cm.

    I reposition some of the scenic for a better realignment of the map. But I leave all the original measures for movement. It works.

    #73538
    Anonymous
    Inactive

    3 feet x 3 feet. Or, in metric, 90 cm x 90 cm. I reposition some of the scenic for a better realignment of the map. But I leave all the original measures for movement. It works.

    OK got it, thanks.

    #74743
    Papasan
    Participant

    You may have to extend the number of game turns if there are any limits Don as figures may well have further to travel to reach an objective, at least that is what I’ve found. I play 20mm for FoF on various size tables, the average is about 40″x 40″ as that is the size of the carpet tiles I have available to play on and I found best accommodate roads and buildings required by most scenarios.
    I initially left the movement as is (though I upped the ranges to make it interesting) but found I needed a couple more turns to achieve objectives. More recently I have also upped the movement too and it plays as it should with no time adjustment required.

    #74757
    maggico
    Participant

    Yes, I forgot to add that I use to extend the game by one or two turns.

    • This reply was modified 3 years, 11 months ago by maggico.
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