Home Forums Horse and Musket Napoleonic Old School 6mm Napoleonics

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  • #29249
    Thaddeus Blanchette
    Participant

    I have just placed an order with Commission Figurines to buy some of their beautiful 6mm MDF Napoleonic figures. My 3mm collection has now been rebased for Blucher (as has my 2mm collection – don’t ask me why I need TWO pico-scale armies…) and I am looking forward to using these “large” microscale figures for small, tabletop, Black Powder games, with each unit being a battalion. I plan and doing an alternate Peninsula set-up, so that I can get some Portuguese onto the table.

    The goal here is to have a simple and striking visual effect, commensurate with my new little wooden soldiers. And I’ve been thinking: why not do this “old school”, Charles Grant Style? Make a pocket classic wargame set-up that can fit into a big carry box for travel: wedding cake hills, the works.

    What I want is a 54mm or 28mm-style old school game scaled down to something I can play on my coffee table: easy to set up, nice to look at and stupid fun.

    So I need advice from any of you who might be “old school” players as to what I should do.

    What I am wondering, in particular, is should I eschew flocking? It seems to me that painting a few battle boards and my units’ bases the same colors might be the key to tying this all together, visually speaking. I think that the charm of this might be in keeping everything very visually stylized and simple: balsa wood houses, blobby sponge trees… Very little visual noise to detract from the spectacle.

    So what do you all think? Anyone out there with old school experience? Henry Hyde, I know you’re a busy man, but any advise you might have, I’ll surely take to heart, as you are my guru for things old school and imagination.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    #29250
    grizzlymc
    Participant

    As someone whose experience of wargaming is almost all old school, I would say go for it.  I hate flocking my bases so I use Humbrol grass green and an almost identical green blanket.

     

    Pick an easy to repeat base colour and then paint the hills and board in housepaint mixed to match a paint chip of your base colour.  Look forward to seeing your MDF figs.

    #29251
    Thaddeus Blanchette
    Participant

    If you or anyone else has any shots of your old school set up, I would love to see them!

    I am thinking of using a yellowish for my bases because the set up will be Spain, but also because lighter is better for the microscales.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    #29253
    General Slade
    Participant

    The first commandment of old school is “Thou shalt not flock”.

    #29257
    Iain Fuller
    Participant
    #29258
    Thaddeus Blanchette
    Participant

    Very cool, that! Thank you Iain!

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    #29261
    Norm S
    Participant

    2  links (first is just a photo of a whole table, second is close up photo of troops and text)

    http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mu0zpoT-lkM/UgAF_zNuHBI/AAAAAAAAFsw/EUkNShqnv1Q/s1600/A+Room+with+a+View.jpg

    http://steve-the-wargamer.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/definition-of-old-school.html

     

    • This reply was modified 5 years, 6 months ago by Norm S.
    #29274
    Thaddeus Blanchette
    Participant

    Very nice, Norm, and I particularly appreciate the blog article.

    Going on that, what I will be doing is faux Old School. 🙂 I want an old school feel in terms of design, but, obviously, I will be using 6mm MDF figures. Can’t get more cutting edge than that!

    In terms of attitude, though, I would have to say I am always old school. I love research, don’t care about competition, enjoy asymmetrical scenarios and am very clear that what happens on the table has only a nodding acquaintance with real life.

    I just want this project to be fun and stylized, a better-looking throwback to my early days of tooling around with Airfix figures on book hills, fighting over lego forts.

    One thing the article did bring up, however: base color. As I said above, I was thinking of a yellowish tan. Now, however, I am thinking of going with “that” green. The second option screams more “old school” in terms of visual impact, but I can’t help thinking that the first option might be prettier in terms of reflected light at 6mm scale.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    #29276
    curlerman
    Participant

    The figures do lend themselves to an old school feel! Someone described them as lego men.  Well they certainly do have the feel of the toy box about them but once painted up they blend in beautifully with standard lead. You may have to adopt an old school approach to painting them because given good terrain and basing they certainly fit into modern gaming styles too.

    Winning is not important but losing i just can't handle..
    blog http://flownlegions.blogspot.com.es
    web http://www.angelfire.com/games4/bobsgames/hair_curlers.htm

    #29278
    Thaddeus Blanchette
    Participant

    Oh, I know, Curlerman! Your site is proof of that, if nothing else. Commission Figurine ‘s stuff looks very nice and I can’t wait to get my mitts on them!

    I’m certainly not trying to degrade the quality of these figs as “only good for toy soldiers”.

    But I want a toy soldier feel and I think these guys will lend themselves better to that than, say, Adler or Bacchus.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    #29281
    Thaddeus Blanchette
    Participant

    What I’d like to know, however, is why you base your stuff seven per 40mm instead of 8 per 40mm of frontage? Are the strips slightly bigger than 40mm or is there another reason?

    I’m thinking of actually cutting mine and basing them CLOSER: like two ranks of three on a half inch counter.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    #29282
    curlerman
    Participant

    What I’d like to know, however, is why you base your stuff seven per 40mm instead of 8 per 40mm of frontage? Are the strips slightly bigger than 40mm or is there another reason? I’m thinking of actually cutting mine and basing them CLOSER: like two ranks of three on a half inch counter.

    Well three reasons really. one they just wont fit on the 40mm frontage and let me grass up the edges. Secondly it means that with 7 the standard bearer is in the middle of the base.  Thirdly cutting them weakens the strip. Remember these are made of MDF so you need to preserve the strength of the base.

     

    Winning is not important but losing i just can't handle..
    blog http://flownlegions.blogspot.com.es
    web http://www.angelfire.com/games4/bobsgames/hair_curlers.htm

    #29286
    grizzlymc
    Participant

    Thaddeus

     

    I would not describe my stuff as “Old School” it’s just that I never got into “New School” being in strange places living out of 23kg of posessions post ’81.

    However, my stuff can be seen on my blog:

    https://grizzstoysoldiers.wordpress.com/

    The toy soldiers are at:

    San Martin’s Ejercito de Los Andes in 6mm

    and

    Royalist Army Chile 1817

     

    By the way, I am completely in agreement re basing.  Most Napoleonic gamers base their troops in open order.  People have commented that my Adlers are too scrunched up at 3.75mm frontage.  At 1:300 scale that is 1.125m per man, British open order.

    • This reply was modified 5 years, 6 months ago by grizzlymc.
    #29296
    Thaddeus Blanchette
    Participant

    Anyone who plays South American wargames gets massive mana from me, Grizzly! Thank you for posting that stuff! It´s beautiful!

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    #29297
    Thaddeus Blanchette
    Participant

    What I’d like to know, however, is why you base your stuff seven per 40mm instead of 8 per 40mm of frontage? Are the strips slightly bigger than 40mm or is there another reason? I’m thinking of actually cutting mine and basing them CLOSER: like two ranks of three on a half inch counter.

    Well three reasons really. one they just wont fit on the 40mm frontage and let me grass up the edges. Secondly it means that with 7 the standard bearer is in the middle of the base. Thirdly cutting them weakens the strip. Remember these are made of MDF so you need to preserve the strength of the base.

    So it would be a bad idea to cut them into individual soldiers, then?

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    #29299
    grizzlymc
    Participant

    Well, it gives you Napoleonic battles on the dining room table and there is no Corsican dwarf.

     

    Having worked along the length of the area where the campaigns were fought, and having a goodly collection of maps gives it an immediacy.

     

    Once I have the Chileans and the Peruvian reinforcements it is off to La Guerra del Pacifico.

     

    PS, for 6mm I would suggest joining the Perfect six forum, mmany good ideas and pix to be seen.

    #29304
    curlerman
    Participant

    Thaddeus Blanchette wrote:

    So it would be a bad idea to cut them into individual soldiers, then? [/quote]

    In my experience yes. Despite all the conversion work i do , there are limits to what you can achieve with this guys . In the end they are made of wood and splitting is a problem. Figures do get handled during gaming no matter how careful you are so individual soldiers (I’m talking infantry) aren’t a great idea unless you can guarantee to make it impossible to touch them

    • This reply was modified 5 years, 6 months ago by curlerman.
    • This reply was modified 5 years, 6 months ago by curlerman.

    Winning is not important but losing i just can't handle..
    blog http://flownlegions.blogspot.com.es
    web http://www.angelfire.com/games4/bobsgames/hair_curlers.htm

    #29307
    Thaddeus Blanchette
    Participant

    I was thinking of painting them,,then gluing them down in such a way that theirmshoulders would be touching, reinforcing that join with glue as well.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    #29310
    Lagartija Mike
    Spectator

    Grizzly, as much as I love the revolutionary and 19th century South and Central American campaigns (I need a figure of grandly bearded and demented General Meglarejo on his beloved horse badly) I’m still having trouble warming to the noble citizens of picostan. D’you have any idea who makes ranges in bigger scales (I’d even be ok with 15mm)?

    #29327
    grizzlymc
    Participant

    John Fletcher of Grenadier Productions does a Liberators range in 15mm, he also publishes an excellent wargemers guide with uniforms battlemaps and OOBs.

     

    I believe that there are a couple of competing ranges of 28mm but know little of them.

     

    15mm you could probably get away with subbing as I have done but John’s figures are magnificent.

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