03/06/2020 at 12:32 #137447
Here’s a new blog post with some Plastic Soldier Company Steyr heavy trucks in 15mm. Check them out here:
http://www.stormofsteelwargaming.com03/06/2020 at 14:30 #137455
They look fantastic! Just worn enough and not over done. 2 thumbs up.
I love that PSC often has bits in their basic kit sprues to make them in several marks, like with the StuGs and PnzIV. Not only gives you options for less cost, but also bits to use for other things.
"I saw this in a cartoon once, but I'm pretty sure I can do it..."03/06/2020 at 16:36 #137464
Cheers DSG, I didn’t want to over do them, so I am glad you think they look just right!
I also like that, but it does occasionally frustrate me that there *almost* enough bits to make another full set of models, but just not quite… Their 15mm Stewarts for example. If there had been another five hull bottoms, you could make ten tanks, not five!
http://www.stormofsteelwargaming.com04/06/2020 at 15:09 #137533
These look great. Can I ask: the grey trucks, did you pin wash them? The lighter trucks, did you pin wash them? Did you just wash them all over? I have had very little success washing any vehicle above 6mm, which is partly what contributed my move to that scale.04/06/2020 at 15:38 #137536
Cheers Thuseld, yes, I gave these a full wash all over with GW’s Nuln Oil, then a light drybrush of the lightened base coat. Nuln Oil is an excellent wash and the best I have found, along with Agrax Earthsade which is a browner wash.
http://www.stormofsteelwargaming.com04/06/2020 at 15:46 #137537
Those are my two most used washes. I have a few others which are useful for fantasy stuff, but Nuln and Agrax are my favourites. Here is the last time I tried washing something in 20mm:
I hated it. Maybe I should have washed over the Midstone and then drybrushed Midstone again then? I might give that a go if I ever paint any 20mm stuff again.04/06/2020 at 15:55 #137538
That washed tank looks exactly the same as mine before I drybrush. I use Middlestone by Vallejo, wash with Agrax as it looks better on the yellow, then lighten the middlestone slightly with white and give it a good drybrush. I usually paint my camo on before the wash and drybrush, as the drybrush makes it look like it’s been worn off on edges and softens the over all look.
It’s not a hard technique, it just requires a bit of practise to find the shades you like.
The light is a bit dark in these pics, but you can see the results I get with that technique:
http://www.stormofsteelwargaming.com04/06/2020 at 16:08 #137541
Ah, your next step is my other weakness. Mixing colours up. I use Vallejo Midstone also, but mixing some white in scares me. I have been improving my miniature painting on 28mm fantasy, so maybe I will grab those StuGs that I gave up on 5 years ago and give it all a whirl. Those Elefants look good though.04/06/2020 at 16:13 #137542
I’m going to admit that I do some weird stuff, painting wise. If I am going to do an all-over wash I make sure I have a REALLY glossy coast on the model. When it comes to wash time if I use the GW washes (I loved Gryphon Sepia, but the new stuff is good too) I mix them with a little water and a little Future. This really helps it flow and wick into crevices while still also covering the open areas. It also works great for pin washes.
My latest MO is to paint and put on decals, then spray on a heavy dull coat over which I then use a filter to get the worn look, followed by glossy coat and pin washes and drybrush/detailing. The thing I like about the filters is that if you use an acrylic dull coat you can use spirits or thinner to remove the filter if you don’t like it as it’s oil based. Filters work great for changing the tone of the paint, and I’ve used it for making the panzer grey tanks have that slight blueish look to them, as well as knocking back the brightness of Dunkeldaub and olive drab. Not everyone’s cup o’, and a lot of extra steps, but works great if you are feeling picky.
"I saw this in a cartoon once, but I'm pretty sure I can do it..."04/06/2020 at 16:14 #137543
If you are not into mixing the paints then I also use Vallejo’s Buff as a shortcut for lightened Middlestone. It works really well in place of mixing and I usually turn to that anyway cos I’m too lazy.
Give it a whirl, and just practise. If you have already given up on the StuGs you’ve nothing to lose and use them as a tester, if it fails, use some Dettol to strip them and try again.
http://www.stormofsteelwargaming.com04/06/2020 at 16:16 #137544
@DSG, I have watched many videos on the exact techniques you’ve just described although I’ve never tried them myself. I’m always a little intimidated by them tbh, but I really should just man up and try them out some time.
http://www.stormofsteelwargaming.com04/06/2020 at 17:05 #137546
I was totally intimidated too! It seems so advanced, but the hardest part for me was using an airbrush on 15mm minis to do the color modulation. Conquered that!
Filters are a breeze. You can do multiple layers to get just the right shade you want, mix colors, etc. It’s very forgiving. The only drawback is that it is a lot of extra steps and drying time. I do love the results though. Give it a swing!
This guide helped me out tremendously: https://www.heresybrush.com/en/2012/videotutorial-how-to-paint-german-tanks-in-15mm/
They have lots of great 15mm tips, including painting Vikings, basing, real metallic metals, etc.
"I saw this in a cartoon once, but I'm pretty sure I can do it..."04/06/2020 at 17:27 #137552
well, you have convinced me, I have ordered some Mig filter…
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