30/01/2018 at 15:09 #83099
Deciding to switch to 6mm for my next/continuation RPG campaign. I need to remake everything from figures to trees.
Starting with figure so I can use them later for scaling buildings and trees. First up are civilians, because I find them more interesting than combatants and hopefully by the time I get to combatants my sculpting would have improved.
Plans are for 5 different minis for each main groups, buildings/houses, women, men, bandits/mercenaries, soldiers, beastmen and characters. 3 Chocobos when I’m good enough to sculpt animals (if ever) and 7-10 goblins.
Working at a rate of 3 minis every 2 weeks should take about a year to get everything done.30/01/2018 at 15:46 #83102
Brilliant! I like your idea very much. There are very few civilians in 6mm Fantasy, very under represented. Will you be having them cast and sold?
"I saw this in a cartoon once, but I'm pretty sure I can do it..."30/01/2018 at 16:34 #83119
I’m doing these for my own use, really have no idea how to get them cast etc.
But, who knows if I need money maybe I will.30/01/2018 at 16:43 #83121StroezieParticipant
Very, very, very cool!!!
If you ever do decide to get these into production I’ll be a very happy customer.
Is the female fighter also one of your own sculpts?
If you like small scale skirmish, check out http://planetares6.blogspot.be/?m=030/01/2018 at 16:47 #83122
But, who knows if I need money maybe I will.
Pretty sure that making 6mm civilians will not get you much money. 😉30/01/2018 at 16:48 #8312330/01/2018 at 16:50 #83124
Yep, I did the fighter and her friends about a year ago when I first got the idea of getting into solo RPG.
A note on height, the female figures including the fighter is about 8mm tall including the base. The blacksmith is 9mm tall, I made his head a little too big.30/01/2018 at 18:50 #83135PaintingLittleSoldiersParticipant
These are very good – I wish I had your talent.30/01/2018 at 19:30 #83138
I really don’t know if there s much call for fantasy civilians, sales wise (I’ve bought sci-fi civies from Mike for RPG and tabletop gaming and love them!), but I personally like them and think that they’re a great idea. If you do want to get into manufacturing and maybe selling them, we here on this forum have enough cumulative experience and contacts to help make that happen. In what area do you live?
- This reply was modified 2 years, 2 months ago by Darkest Star Games.
"I saw this in a cartoon once, but I'm pretty sure I can do it..."30/01/2018 at 20:01 #83142
@Mike and Dark Star Game (name sounds very familiar)
I’m not planning to sell any of these, my branch of miniature fetish is too weird for the general public (killer Chocobo).
It’s more of a passion project.
It’s good practice to do these little RPG projects. I figure I’d get a lot more from learning to sculpt one off miniatures I need for RPG than the alternative.
You should give it a try.30/01/2018 at 23:20 #83148
6mm, you could fit everything in a matchbox!
wonderful sculpts, so tiny. I have some coppesltone halflings, they are tiny! Do you bust out the electron microscope while sculpting?
why are you switching to 6mm?31/01/2018 at 06:04 #83164
Your fantasy village showed me larger scale on the same size board wasn’t too cramped. I also wanted more details in the figures for characters and market scenes.
6mm wouldn’t really fit in a matchbox but the 3mm stuff from my last campaign fit in a metal DVD tin.
31/01/2018 at 15:09 #83199
- This reply was modified 2 years, 2 months ago by Thomaston.
It’s more of a passion project.
I dig. If you ever change your mind we are here to help!
"I saw this in a cartoon once, but I'm pretty sure I can do it..."31/01/2018 at 15:59 #83201
do you have better pictures of your buildings and forests? I would like to steal(a hem) borrow some of your ideas.31/01/2018 at 18:39 #83208
These were V.3 trees using FIMO and sand, before I decided to use 3D printing. A pain to make and has some weight to them.
Unpainted huts I made before I decided to go with 6mm. They’re basically cubic shapes with a lump of FIMO on top with texture put on. The 3mm project was intended for this tobacco tin, as a travel set.31/01/2018 at 19:07 #83210
I really like those trees, I’ll have to try that out. Dis you make your own doors and windows for the houses. They are ‘cute’ in a good way.31/01/2018 at 19:39 #83214
Was cahtting with a friend about this over lunch (actually, about him getting some minis sculpted and cast) and I mentioned the minis you did from your Village game as “sort of chibi-like” and he went nuts. He said 6mm is a bit too small for him, but chibi-like small scale figures would be a dream for him and some friends. Not trying to push ya, just putting a bug in your ear!
"I saw this in a cartoon once, but I'm pretty sure I can do it..."31/01/2018 at 20:28 #83219
I actually didn’t put doors and windows on most of the houses. From the angle I look at them they’re irrelevant, and only the larger houses has doors/windows. It’ll be different for 6mm.
Does your friend know about Soda Pop miniatures? Chibi has to be the easiest thing to sculpt, also a great way to start sculpting. Peaks & Plains was actually 3mm so chibi was the only realistic option.02/02/2018 at 21:33 #83396
Scale creep taking effect. The guy carrying the sack is 10mm tall.
Wanted them to be generic but the woodcutter looks more like a character and the drunk isn’t going to be usable in most games.03/02/2018 at 01:07 #83403
Or should the drunk be in every game!
amazing detail for such small models!03/02/2018 at 08:01 #83412ian pillayParticipant
Wow these are fantastic sculptures. I really like them. How do you do 6mm sculpting, do you use an armature underneath or just use blobs of green stuff and build them up in stages?
Tally-Ho!03/02/2018 at 11:29 #83435StroezieParticipant
How do you do 6mm sculpting, do you use an armature underneath or just use blobs of green stuff and build them up in stages?
Yes, step by steps/how to’s are always appreciated
If you like small scale skirmish, check out http://planetares6.blogspot.be/?m=003/02/2018 at 11:39 #83436
I’ll do a step by step next group.
Yep work in stages and build up as I go along.
For armature I use 2 methods, the more dynamic pose like the painted female fighter in the first pose I used wire armature. It takes a bit of bulking up and can be a pain nudging putty around the wire.
The method I’m currently playing around with is using left over plastic sprue, cut/glue to get the basic pose and carve out any excess. Putty sticks much easier to this and takes a day or two off the sculpting time. Most of the greens were sculpted using this method.
The drunk guy was different, I experimented with putty armature but it was too flexible and cured with a slight tilt so I made him drunk.03/02/2018 at 16:19 #83458
New look for towns. I think the largest buildings could work but the square one where most of the figures are might be too small. The tree is definitely too small.
Solving the tree problem. Giving them height using spacers, non spaced trees could be bushes. I like the shadow they’re casting.
I love to cheat.03/02/2018 at 16:53 #8346103/02/2018 at 20:08 #83463ian pillayParticipant
Thanks for that explanation. Never thought of using plastic spru as amartures. That’s a great idea and makes total sense for not just small scale figures but any size really. Glue, carve, bulk and detail with green stuff.
Tally-Ho!03/02/2018 at 21:38 #83470
I love the terrain. Can we see more pictures of the altar and columns?04/02/2018 at 16:22 #83538
Tools – I use 2 tools rubber tip scuplting tool (trianglular shaped) for most things. The other tool is only used for fine details, made using a free disposable chopstick, used x-acto blade and a pin (regular sculpting tool works fine I only made this to work on 3mm).
Hole punch some plastic for the base, packaging plastic is good enough.
I hold the sprues in place using the putty, if I have left over putty I might sculpt shoes on as well. Also kind of important to sculpt in the height and what would be the neck of the mini. Putty hold together much better if they’re still sticky otherwise there’s a weak point between old and new putty. The other miniature is used to scale the sculpts, it’s an unfinished sculpt I gave up on.
Deciding on pose and building up the miniatures. I work from the legs up (reason why some miniatures are over scaled) so that there’s a stiff foundation when I work on the face and other details. I’ll also add the arms and neck at this stage so it’ll cure with the torso for more durable miniatures.
These took maybe 2-3 days, mostly waiting for putty to cure. The sample miniature took closer to a week to get to the condition seen.
Probably 2 more steps left, faces, beard and other details and finally hair.04/02/2018 at 16:59 #83542
Wow, thanks for the WIP! 10mm is as small is I can see. I think the smallish buildings are fine, especially in clusters. The cobblestones are cool too, I might have to try those out. I still think your trees are the best. Did you blend some aquarium plants in the top?
I don’t have much experience with fimo, but I might try it out. The altars are really cool, simple but effective. I really like the broken columns.
04/02/2018 at 18:46 #83559
- This reply was modified 2 years, 2 months ago by OldBen1.
Th trees are 100% 3D printed, I modeled some fern like leaves so I can use them for jungle games too.
Easiest columns are dowels at a DIY store or Amazon. Buy a pack, mount some, chop some up, instant ruins.
What I like about FIMO is it’s pretty forgiving to beginners. You don’t have to sculpt it, carving out terrain is sometimes easier and you can rework it for years until you’re happy with it. The only down side I’ve experience is it needs a good spray of undercoat otherwise acrylic paint feels sticky to the touch.
I figure I’ll probably need to make 6 more houses, about twice the size of the current ones.
05/02/2018 at 15:12 #83628
- This reply was modified 2 years, 2 months ago by Thomaston.
Does your friend know about Soda Pop miniatures?
Indeed he does, has a few of their minis, but he’s always on the look out for more!
I am amazed that you’re using armatures for such a small scale. Are you using a magnifying visor?
"I saw this in a cartoon once, but I'm pretty sure I can do it..."05/02/2018 at 20:03 #83668
The details are not all the impressive, pretty tame compared to commercially available miniatures. I’m hoping by the time I get to characters and beasts I’ll be at commercial standard.
Civilians done, must quicker than I expected. 5-6 bandits/mercenaries next.05/02/2018 at 20:12 #8367005/02/2018 at 21:41 #83672
They’re all 8-9mm including base except for the sack carrier he’s 10mm.
I screw up. They’re all taller than my painted minis, the miniature I used to scale these with was too tall (probably why I gave up on it).
Depressing.05/02/2018 at 22:51 #8367705/02/2018 at 23:46 #83679
I’ll remove them from the base, take 1-2mm off their legs/skirt, re-base and re-sculpt their feet. Easier for the women than the men, having the sprue underneath should help some.
Learning experience is painful.06/02/2018 at 18:13 #83764
That’s a lot of work. Why not stick to 10mm?. Lots of scenery and miniatures out there to bolster your games.
06/02/2018 at 19:57 #83791
- This reply was modified 2 years, 1 month ago by OldBen1.
My sculpts height includes the base and would be scrawny compared to 10mm miniatures. The fix was pretty quick, less than an hour I think. I left out 4 of the shorter sculpts they’re only half a mm taller than these. The only one I felt a little bad about the fix was the woodcutter, he was well proportioned originally.08/02/2018 at 15:51 #83975
Those look great. You’ll have to post some pictures of them painted.08/02/2018 at 17:13 #83983
It’ll be a while before these get painted, need warm weather to spray coat the miniatures.
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