Home Forums Alternate History Imagi-Nations Slow mind = small games -> The Battle for Bonby is over

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  • #161211
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    Thank you both for your thoughts.

    The good news is I did it!  First dice rolled with shaking hands and sure I made a few errors but this was the game:

    Starting forces and first move:

    Red gets the first move (decided by pulling a coloured blank dice out of a bag) and move the skirmishers up to be met by the blue mounted troops – this turns into a right ‘slug fest’ as cavalry is at -2 vs skirmishers…


    Not sure where I’ve gone a bit wrong with my scaling but artillery can reach any part of the board (hence the hit on the blue artillery unit).

    By halfway through the game serious damage has been done to both sides with blue cavalry hitting the other red skirmish unit in the flank:

    Amazingly, the dice where awful for both sides with many a tie or defenders winning and with 2/3 of the turns gone (15 is the standard in OHW) the sides are down to:

    Three turns later it’s down to the dice with red having the advantage in the dice with the skirmishers -2:

    A turn later the dice go to the red team with a pyrrhic victory to say the least.

    The good news is that I stopped shaking after a couple of turns and the unit selection / three hit house rules worked fine even if tactics may not have been ‘period correct’.

    I now need to:

    1) Create a cheat sheet as flicking back and forward in the A4 sheets is a pain and the mind gets mixed up without double checking things.

    2) Find my dice tray as the dice skid all over the table and board

    3) Paint the green brighter – under the lights the blue units are a pain despite the yellow.

    4) Look at ideas to hold the felt down – the hills slid a bit but the units where fine as it happens.  Not convinced blue-tac would work as it may pull the felt apart…

    So the result – my heart is still beating fast with the fun I’ve had but I’m going to have good news for my councellor later today

    #161212
    telzy amber
    Participant

    Congratulations! I hope you continue

    #161215
    Shaun Travers
    Participant

    Yay!  Congratulations!

    #161232
    Steve Johnson
    Participant

    Excellent news old chap! The hardest thing is taking the first step, or die roll in this case, so well done for doing that. You could buy some felt cloth for the games mat instead of a board, so the felt hills etc should not slide around. Anyway, I hope you counsellor is impressed with what you achieved and i look forward to more games as and when you feel up to it!

    #161333
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    Thank you all – I’m still buzzed over managing and the surprised look on my counsellors face was priceless!

    @ Steve Johnson I may well try a cloth – Boyes locally stock a fair amount of different types so I can take a bit of felt in with me next time I go into town and have a try. I do also have a mouse mat style battle mat that I’ve been wondering what to do with – it’s a bit big for the space I now have and may cut cleanly… This would also allow me to store everything in one A4 box rather than having the board separate.

    The real interesting bit is my ‘in-mind’ post battle analysis – normally this is the point where my mind beats itself up with what went wrong but this is the first time for years that I actually do not care that I got a few bits wrong within the rules! I cannot explain how strange (even alien) this feels – most folk would not give a second thought and just learn but my mind is on such an odd track this is a nice situation to be in again.

    The main boob was forgetting cavalry retreats after each round in combat. Not sure it was an issue TBH, though the skirmishers may have reached the guns rather than tying up the cavalry all the game leading to a quicker win for the reds. With only one unit of horse on the table I did not try the optional ‘form a square’ rule but did remember it existed.

    The unit selection really worked well. In OHW all units on one side move (the classic IGOUGO style) but after watching a Bolt Action game on YouTube I borrowed their idea of pulling a coloured block out of a bag blind and then selecting the unit to move or fire. Playing solo this gave many more decisions and thought than I expected – a big win in my book. I did leave them on the board to track units I had activated – they are a bit large (almost the size of the ‘skirmish’ small block) but I have these for now.

    The wound counters worked fine and are not too intrusive – I may varnish them but unlikely to paint them to hide them more.
    Casualties are the real conversion problem and its here I could do with some thoughts / ideas…

    Units in OHW have 15 hits before removal and damage is normally 1D6 modified by attacking unit type (e.g. cavalry adds 2), defending unit type (e.g. artillery gain -2) and terrain the defender is in. I changed this to have both sides rolling 2D6, adding or subtracting modifiers and the highest winning. If this is the attacker then the defender takes 1 wound else nothing happens.

    i.e. Red infantry attacks blue infantry.  Red rolls 8 and blue rolls 3 – red inflicts one hit on blue.  If blue rolled 8 or above the attack failed and no damage was inflicted (on either unit).

    The issue in converting the normal rules comes after this roll – artillery and skirmishers would have -2 applied to the 1D6 roll to represent their scattered nature, cavalry add 2, while hits in the flank or rear double the roll and the final figure becomes the damage.  Hill tops, woods and towns act as protection and halves the damage.  This gives a large spread (0 to 16) and limits the length of combat BUT increases the tracking needed beyond my simple ‘three strikes’ counters to either paper or dice / dials and is a total turn off to my mind given the size of units and table!

    For the first game, I added or subtracted the + or – to the two dice and this seemed to work well BUT I’m looking for options to handle the double / half damage results.  Double may well work (being hit in the rear by a cavalry charge is going to be bad) but the half hits for being in towns etc is a bit of a puzzle. So far I have thought up:

    a) Ignore this – not really practical.
    b) Track half hits for units in towns etc – a bit of mess (maybe use two counters) and do I round up or down if they leave the area?
    c) Use a ‘to hit’ modifier – either a simple numeric alteration to the defenders dice?
    d) Divide the attackers dice by two to represent the difficulty – feels very harsh…

    Now I know very little about the period (except for the odd episode and book of Sharpe I’ve done nothing within this timeline since school) so I could not say how effective combat was BUT I feel option B or C may work simply with option B using two hit counters and round up if they leave the area.

    Any thoughts on tracking / reducing damage for defending units???

    The second quirk in the OHW rules is that infantry in squares cannot fire – that seems wrong?  Did squares fire during this period?

     

    #161345
    Geof Downton
    Participant

    …mouse mat style battle mat … may cut cleanly…

    I have not cut a battlemat, but normal mousemats cut better with scissors than knives, and a rotary cutter is best of all. Hold a guide straight edge firmly (or clamp) and run the cutter up and down two or three times.

     

    One who puts on his armour should not boast like one who takes it off.
    Ahab, King of Israel; 1 Kings 20:11

    #161351
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    … normal mousemats cut better with scissors than knives, and a rotary cutter is best of all. Hold a guide straight edge firmly (or clamp) and run the cutter up and down two or three times.

    Oddly enough I have had a long career in I.T. but never cut a mouse mat up

    The rotary cutter sounds a good idea – I’ll check with the two ladies in my life (NO – wife and daughter) who are both crafters to see if they have one tucked away if I go that way.  The mat is large enough to have a few goes even if I cut it down for SoBH as well.

    I discarded the idea of flocking the board as I think that will lift with the felt but I may have some of the Krylon stone spray left from an old desert board I made that’s nice and gritty. A spray of that and then green / brown over the top may work and not cost.

    #161352
    ian pillay
    Participant

    Andrew, glad to see you got that game in! Not sure how it would work but I’ve toyed with the idea of using average dice for combat resolution. But got no further with it. Maybe ask on the Group.io I am sure there have been plenty of discussion on casualty recording.
    keep on roll those dice!

    Tally-Ho! Check out my blog at…..
    http://steelcitywargaming.wordpress.com/

    #161532
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    Mind caught up with me again but I’ve just read the new posts on ‘First foray into block warfare‘ and specifically the idea of using a printout as the map.

    I know there are a few maps around (e.g. these from Forward March) but the Ordnance Survey can make a map for me of the local area so maybe this is a way to go for the campaign.  I would have to ignore power lines, the Humber Bridge and road differences but it’s an option.  Maybe a call to the Heritage Centre and local museums would turn up older maps that I could use…

    As for the felt slipping – I found some non-slip matting buried on a shelf under my shoes a couple of days ago that may stick to the felt and hold it in place. A project for the weekend I think.

    #161537
    Geof Downton
    Participant

    Old OS maps available to order from HERE. Various other maps too.

    One who puts on his armour should not boast like one who takes it off.
    Ahab, King of Israel; 1 Kings 20:11

    #161554
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    Thank you for that link – I’ll have a surf and good look after the dentist this afternoon (at least I know the tooth is a gonner).

    Boyes (a local store) has some brown fleece and some grey / browny cotton that may do – both under £6 a metre so I’m now spoilt for choice and may need weeks to make a decision (mind gets in a knot and I can end up have to do the SWOT charts for simple this / that selection)…

    #161566
    Wicked Wargames
    Participant

    Hey andrew, here is the file i made on publisher for the board. It’s not great, it took me about half hour of googling to find a half suitable image: https://ufile.io/3y9kc5nr

    It’s a publisher file.

    WWW.WICKEDWARGAMES.COM - The wargames company i run with a friend.

    #161568
    Fred B
    Participant

    Really enjoying your foray into block wargames. I am planning on doing some myself in the future, because I just love the idea of moving wooden blocks on a printed map. I am not sure why, but the fact that it’s both representative and abstract at same time really appeals to me… and also let’s me feel like some general in the HQ planning moves 😀

    Any thoughts on tracking / reducing damage for defending units???

    I am not sure if this will work for the rules you’re using, but I am a big fan of the advantage/disadvantage mechanic that got popular in RPGs. Basically if you are at an disadvantage (you suffered the half hit) you roll an extra die (so 2d6 if you rolled a d6 before) and keep the lower. It is not as harsh as simply cutting a die in half (you can still roll double sixes which means your lower die will be 6), but generally it shows the unit is not fighting at full strength.

    To keep track which units suffered a “half-hit” I would simply turn the piece upside down (so the “front facing” arrow is not touching the ground). This way you can still do your normal facing, but is easy to see which unit is in disarray from suffering a half-hit so you know exactly when you need to roll 2d6 and keep the lower.

    #161573
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    Hey andrew, here is the file i made on publisher for the board. It’s not great, it took me about half hour of googling to find a half suitable image: https://ufile.io/3y9kc5nr It’s a publisher file.

    Most kind – I’ll see if I have anything that opens it on my Mac.  Sure my wife has the full Office on her PC but think Libre Office can handle it and I’ve a Linux notebook that has it on.

    Other good news is the dentist saved my tooth – big and very pleasant surprise as he thought it was beyond saving

    One thought I had on the way back was to flip the current board over to the hairy side and try that! It’s a simple option to try first.

    @ Fred B – Welcome to the dark side. We have square corners (but no cake). I like the idea of flipping the blocks though I did not paint the bottoms and used a spray can to save time (grrr). Maybe I can create a spray puddle and use that. The guns do stick up from the top though and, being resin, may be fragile.

    I do have enough counters to use two to denote the half but just looks messy – maybe a small blank counter will do.

    Talking of the guns, I now have some large blanks to swap for the small skirmish ones and can then use them to replace the large blocks for the artillery if I can create a gun out of plastic to stick on the tops. I know it’s not truly needed but will let me match the sizes listed in the rules.

    #161819
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    Well I went to have a grope of the fabric again with my daughter and Boyes let me have a strip without having to buy the full meter so I decided on the brown fleece (Alice makes her own clothes and said this is unlikely to fray).

    Oddly enough, it looks rather pink at home compared to the shop but I’ll hunt up the spray cans again and give it some greens and browns when it stops raining.

    The great news is the felt does not slip anymore and the blocks remain in place fine.

    I also splashed out on a pot of bright green so I’ll do that change at some point.

    Next up though is to replace the skirmish and artillery units with blocks the ‘correct’ size – I’ve not worked out how to make the guns to stick on the blank blocks I have – maybe I can cut four out of card / plastic by hand to match the current ones though a quick Google shows a circle (representing a cannonball) was used by NATO for field artillery.

    I do know that I’ve nothing in my bits box that I could make them semi-realistic from (let alone even match the ones currently on the big blocks) and the local hardware shop has not restocked the brass / plastic rod box in years! 6mm figures are way oversized (as would be 3mm) so I am leaning to the circle TBH.  For now though as the skirmishers and artillery will be the only blank topped unit I’m not fussed as they will not get mixed up with anything.

    As for firing out of the square, a quick bit of research shows me it was done (not only in film) so I think the rule must be a game balancing one.

    Alice is kindly arranging for some 1/2 wood counters to be made by Tash that matches the current ones for my birthday next month so that’s that problem solved as well.

    Wonder if I can find a pencil case to hold everything (bar the dice tray) – it’s almost a pocket game!!!

    #162010
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    Been a good end to a ‘b’ of a week

    Turns out my wife has a circular cutter after all and it’s still sharp (my finger will grow back won’t it?!?) so I can look at cutting down the mouse mat for a different game later this year… SOBH is simple and I have a bit of scenery done so that’s a thought.

    As for the storage issue – sorted about 5AM this morning. I looked in Boyes yesterday but the boxes felt on the small size (forgot the measurement and DID NOT write it down grrrr – I should know better) and the knitting needle boxes where more like tubes. I did find a very very nice fishing tackle box set with adjustable insides but at £13 it was way over what I would pay. A search on eBay showed nothing I fancied (but the choice is way OTT so I did give up) so I felt a bit down and got stuck thinking I need a trip to The Range or The Works in the big town.

    Not feeling great over this led my to being up all night (curled up, napping and walking about) but I finally remembered I had a box that held some glue (I can put them elsewhere) that may work. Unfortunately my wife was asleep by the time I finally went to bed but I did remember to check when I got up and YES – it’s perfect:

    It’s amazing the feeling of relief getting this sorted – I’ve been avoiding playing another game as I needed to get over this problem first so I will now do the QRS and start rolling dice again.

    Been a horrible mind battle the last week – wanting to play but stuck on storage so not playing and getting anxious over the money and time I’ve spent being wasted as I had no storage and so the downward spiral reinforces itself.

    If anyone needs me, I’ll be on the computer doing the QRS and dreaming of the next game

    #162013
    ian pillay
    Participant

    I felt a bit down and got stuck thinking I need a trip to The Range or The Works in the big town.

     

    Andrew, The Works doesn’t have anything suitable. The Range has lots of choice in both price and size. However, I can’t find anything now they’ve moved the shop around!

    Tally-Ho! Check out my blog at…..
    http://steelcitywargaming.wordpress.com/

    #162019
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    Andrew, The Works doesn’t have anything suitable. The Range has lots of choice in both price and size. However, I can’t find anything now they’ve moved the shop around!

    But The Works shops do have cheap books

    Not to worry, I’ll save fuel and stick to the 1.5l RUB I found – I would just spend more money on bits I do not need at the mo. and putting the glue away has reminded me to sort out the box the box came out off – looks like a little sale coming up!

    Im trying to get the QRS into the box as well as being able to read it so double sided printing gives my first draft as:

    Poop – missed ‘arc’ after the 360 degree note! It does duplicate some bits now I read it but they are the bits I forget…

    I’ve tweaked the rules for shooting vs artillery and skirmishers to cope with their size and to allow infantry to fire out of a square at reduced effect. The first tweak reflected is in the normal rules as a damage mod but the second bit is a total reverse of the normal rules…

    I’m not sure about the artillery range – they can hit anywhere on the table no matter where they are sat!

    Given how I am feeling today I will give a good try to get the second game tonight on the same battle field (random troop selection though) and see how the QRS helps me / needs changing.

    #162035
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    Well I’ve just completed my second game (yes I know it’s 3AM).

    The QRS has a few minor bits that need a tidy and I’m going to add a couple of bits esp a unit vs unit summary so I’m possibly giving up with the idea of it fitting in the box.  It was worth doing though as it helped a great deal.

    The game went like this:

    Starting positions:

    Part way through:

    But after a long slog it ended up as a draw:

    as the turn counter ran out. In practise, I think the blue would have won despite the artillery being well dug in on the hill top!

    I have been thinking more about the campaign and just come across Henry Hyde’s Terrain Squares and I’m now thinking about mounting these on to 3 or 4 inch ply / MDF squares and making the battle map up based on the real campaign map. I would need to have a frame to hold them in place but it may be worth the cost to have this laser cut to fit standard bases.  Main drawback is having enough to represent all the terrain and the space it will take compared to the felt.

    Anyway – that’s not going to be for a few months – another draft of the QRS is next even if this ends up as a rewrite of the rules…

    Funniest thing is that I have zero idea if this game ‘system’ represents the period but I’m enjoying it so do not mind

    #162036
    ian pillay
    Participant

    Funniest thing is that I have zero idea if this game ‘system’ represents the period but I’m enjoying it so do not mind

    I think that’s the main point, enjoying your hobby, your way. I am glad to read you enjoyed the game. I’ve enjoyed reading this journey in this post. You’ve shared some great ideas. For instance the terrain squares in a frame. Such an obvious solutions but one that I’ve totally not recognised. That will solve one of my little problems if my board tiles moving around during a game. I’ve been using masking tape on the edges to hold them together. I was thinking about using magnets to hold them in place but the more I thought about it the more complicated it became…..

    Keep on sharing

    Ian

    Tally-Ho! Check out my blog at…..
    http://steelcitywargaming.wordpress.com/

    #162039
    Steve Johnson
    Participant

    Great to see you having fun, which is the most important thing!

    #162070
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    Great to see you having fun, which is the most important thing!

    Big thank you for that – it means a lot (more than most folk realise I think).  It’s a major step for myself as until recently I would be either not able to do this at all or so worried that I was getting the period ‘wrong’ that there would be no fun in it.

    I even braved the shops today and managed to pick up two little strips of plastic to make the cannons but QRS mk2 first.

     

    #162076
    Steve Johnson
    Participant

    Our daughter suffers from social anxiety and depression, so we have some small insight into what you face each day. She shares lots of useful info with me so I can try to be as informed as I can to help her.

    As for getting any period ‘right’, all we can do is make as good a stab at it as we can, given the information we have to hand, which as the period goes back in history, is less reliable to modern eyes IMHO.

    #162164
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    I’ve redone my fleece map as it’s sunny today and taken it up to exactly 1 ft square:

    I still have easily enough material to make a rectangular one if I use the index card idea being discussed here.

    #162169
    Steve Johnson
    Participant

    Looking good!

    #163953
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    Well I finally got the QRS v2 sheet done:

    I also picked up a few small 1cm x 1cm white wood cubes off eBay (like these) that I will use to denote units that have moved. These will replace the large 20mm dice I have (some of the red ones can just be seen top right of this picture) as they dominate the units and look really out of place. Not sure if I will spray them blue / red as I’m happy with the white TBH.

     

    #163987
    Jim Webster
    Participant

    Just to say this thread is an inspiration. Andrew, you rock
    I suspect that by keeping up with this thread you’ve helped a lot of people who have read your words with gratitude knowing they’re not alone, even if they’ll never comment.
    There’s a magic in your blocks that even the most exquisitely painted 28mm figures can never match. I hope you continue to enjoy this hobby of ours

    https://jimssfnovelsandwargamerules.wordpress.com/

    #164008
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    Thank you for those comments Jim.

    I’m amazed time and time again by the super feedback to my game and the kind thoughts and PMs that folk have sent me since I started this thread. I will be honest and say it was never designed to be anything but a record of me trying to game again rather than waffle on planning but not executing but if others have gained even a moments pleasure then that a win and if it helps others managed their health for a short time then that’s brilliant.

    Have a good weekend all – may the dice roll in your favour and to the never ending consternation of your enemy.

    #164475
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    One thing that’s coming out of the games is that they become a ‘slug fest’ with limited movement.  Maybe because I’m used to skirmish games more than big battles this has been very noticeable to me but it may be that is this is representative of combat in the period (something I know virtually nothing about) and I need to move troops more!

    What I see (or do, as I’m playing both sides do not forget) is that infantry move into range and then it’s up to the dice to determine the winner who then moves onward to the next combat. I’ve no issue moving troops out of range or into another combat (either by switching target or actually moving) but so far the opportunity to do this has been very limited.

    I think this is a limit of the rules, low ‘hit points’ and mainly the low count of units per side and I’m not sure if this is fixable within the game as is as I can only come up with the following options:

    1) Increase the number of hits each unit can take

    2) Increase the number of units but keep the field of battle the same size

    3) Increase the number of units and increase the size of table

    4) Add a morale aspect to the game

    Drawbacks are:

    1) This just increases the sit and slug it out

    2) Possible but stops any more book scenarios and costs more money than I want to spend this year on this game

    3) Think this will just add extra fights that sit till the bitter end

    4) More complexity and may just end as ‘retreat – follow up  – fight again’

    I have to ask myself if this is really a problem long term as a campaign game may well change my mindset to troops surviving and running away and for now the more complex scenarios will help me avoid getting bogged down.

    I also need to remember this is a quick and simple game so it does not matter too much!

    Any thoughts any one???

    #164479
    Jim Webster
    Participant

    The casualties may not be dead, they could be men helping friends back to the doctor or separated for some reason. After a combat you could roll a dice and have some men rally back to the unit. After a game, in a campaign, you would get more men rallying to the unit

     

    Also how much terrain are you using? More terrain would force units to manoeuvre, especially if the terrain piece blocked the line of sight and stopped units shooting at each other.

    https://jimssfnovelsandwargamerules.wordpress.com/

    #164514
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    The casualties may not be dead, they could be men helping friends back to the doctor or separated for some reason. After a combat you could roll a dice and have some men rally back to the unit. After a game, in a campaign, you would get more men rallying to the unit

    Makes sense – if I keep track of units hits at the end of the game then I can look to merge part units after the battle assuming they meet up.

    Also how much terrain are you using? More terrain would force units to manoeuvre, especially if the terrain piece blocked the line of sight and stopped units shooting at each other.

    Currently very little – the OHW book uses very little and even the busy battlefields have plenty of space to fight in.

    I’m also wondering if the move rules I use also has a big impact. The mixed unit move allows a lot more closure during one turn than IGOUGO does in my mind. May have to play this out a couple of times to see if this is a big difference…

    #164544
    warwell
    Participant

    When I use OHW scenarios, I often include additional, randomly determined terrain. That may help.

    Some other ideas:

    1. Increase the size of the battlefield
    2. Provide a rally rule, which removes hits. Don’t make it too easy, though, or else you are constantly recycling.
    #164547
    Sane Max
    Participant

    It’s all looking very good! I am a big fan of Neil Thomas systems, OHW is the simplest of course – I agree about the slug-fest thing, makes it all too predictable.

    I tried adding a very simple morale system – if a unit takes wounds, roll 3d6. If you roll higher than the number of wounds it’s taken it stays on. Lower and it’s gone.

    adds some nice unpredictability.

    #164571
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    The bigger board may be the way to go.  There is an interesting video from The Joy of Wargaming here that discusses the size of the table but the more I potter around this I do not think it’s fixable without more space AND more troop blocks.

    I may try this with paper ‘blocks’ on a test table (string and blue tack) starting with 50% more on each side of the board and then add a few more blocks. This will make a mess of my storage and current felt terrain but if it does work then I could look to do this in ’22 and move away from the felt…

    Think I need to watch a few Sharpe videos and see what they show of the battles (gasp). Sorry to period buffs but that would be more fun than history books.

    #164576
    Jim Webster
    Participant

    The bigger board may be the way to go. There is an interesting video from The Joy of Wargaming here that discusses the size of the table but the more I potter around this I do not think it’s fixable without more space AND more troop blocks. I may try this with paper ‘blocks’ on a test table (string and blue tack) starting with 50% more on each side of the board and then add a few more blocks. This will make a mess of my storage and current felt terrain but if it does work then I could look to do this in ’22 and move away from the felt… Think I need to watch a few Sharpe videos and see what they show of the battles (gasp). Sorry to period buffs but that would be more fun than history books.

     

    you could also watch the film Waterloo

    With 15,000 extras involved, it does give the feel

    https://jimssfnovelsandwargamerules.wordpress.com/

    #164604
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    Popped into my ‘watch later’ for this weekend thank you.

    I’ve managed to snag the Sharpe Collection #1 for £2.40 inc P&P – it’s the old TV version so quality will not be great but it will do.

    #164605
    Jim Webster
    Participant

    Popped into my ‘watch later’ for this weekend thank you. I’ve managed to snag the Sharpe Collection #1 for £2.40 inc P&P – it’s the old TV version so quality will not be great but it will do.

     

    It’s all research and will give you a feel 🙂

    https://jimssfnovelsandwargamerules.wordpress.com/

    #165529
    Edwin McConnel
    Participant

    Thanks for starting this thread – there is much for inspiration here.

    It makes me feel less alone in my efforts to get going with table top wargaming as I too have been using One-Hour Wargames as a basis for my own efforts, taking a low cost approach while taking baby steps (documented on my new blog on the effort https://cheapskatewargamer.blogspot.com/).

    I’ve had similar thoughts about the “slug-fest” aspect of the OHW scenarios but I’ve found that as I’ve moved on to the more objective based scenarios it has become a non-issue, and the games have become quite interesting and rewarding.

    Cheers,

    #165638
    Andrew Beasley
    Participant

    Apologies to all but it’s been a struggle to do anything recently – I’m in a call with the doctor tomorrow.

    I did manage to watch the video of Waterloo (did not see ABBA anywhere) and have the current issue of WI that’s changing my infantry square thoughts and smoke from artillery but just cannot get me head around things at the mo – hope to get back into games in a week or so.

    #165649
    Jim Webster
    Participant

    Don’t let the rules stress you. Wargaming is the place you can chill, not a place to get more stress

    It’s a place you can experiment, kick around ideas, and the only measure of whether you’re doing it ‘right’ is whether you’re enjoying it 🙂

    You might want to browse the Super Cheap Wargaming group on facebook

    https://www.facebook.com/groups/1974415836124872/

    People come up with all sorts of game systems that are cheaper than cheap 🙂

    https://jimssfnovelsandwargamerules.wordpress.com/

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