Home Forums Alternate History Imagi-Nations Small games -> Hex moves OHW

Viewing 40 posts - 121 through 160 (of 214 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #175155
    Avatar photoDeleted User
    Member

    They look good.
    Seeing those buildings got me started on another project.

    #175156
    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley
    Participant

    Thanks for the likes (eek turning into Facebook) -I just hope they come off the wood OK as I used a UHU glue rather than BlueTac and it seems to have gone harder than I thought it would!

    They look good. Seeing those buildings got me started on another project.

    NOT MY FAULT πŸ™‚ but do tell!

    #175219
    Avatar photoDeleted User
    Member

    I’m doing yet another scenic board. Something about tiny buildings makes me want to do scenery.

    #175221
    Avatar photoJim Webster
    Participant

    I think small scale needs and deserves a lot of scenery

    https://jimssfnovelsandwargamerules.wordpress.com/

    #189670
    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley
    Participant

    Though I have no table to play on at the moment I decided to splash out on a bit of scenery for later on in the year.

    This is the ‘bat’ currently being sold as a Halloween skeleton as part of the administration of Wilko here in the U.K.:

    OK – a bit odd for a bat but nothing else on the label fitted and the skull does have bat ears (err – what – bat ears are not bone – sigh) and wings; so its not the cat or snake (same label for all I assume).

    The thought is just to use the skull as the classic outcrop on a cliff – possibly at the top rather than a cave entrance though the jaw is articulated:

    I’ll hopefully have access to some of the 15mms in a few days (fingers crossed) so I’ll check but gut feel is the mouth area is too small. still not bad for a couple of quid even if I do not use the rest of the body…

    Plastic is nice and hard and should take undercoat fine after a wash.

    As the saying goes – well chuffed as its not the classic ‘skull’ shape πŸ™‚

    #189735
    Avatar photoOotKust
    Participant

    err – what – bat ears are not bone – sigh)

    No need for a bat here… I’m sure the cartilage behind them would last (but perhaps not longer than the first scavengers to come along)…

    And the same goes for Wilco- so much capitalism isn’t sustainable- when will they learn?

    #189737
    Avatar photoJim Webster
    Participant

    err – what – bat ears are not bone – sigh)

    No need for a bat here… I’m sure the cartilage behind them would last (but perhaps not longer than the first scavengers to come along)… And the same goes for Wilco- so much capitalism isn’t sustainable- when will they learn?

     

    Company lasted nearly a century, all things pass through a cycle. I think as wargamers we have to cultivate a historical perspective. The French First Empire lasted ten or eleven years, the Second Empire lasted 18, the current Chinese dynasty has lasted 74 years, (I am sureΒ  I read somewhere that the average is just over 100) and the Soviet Union lasted 69 years (start dates vary πŸ™‚Β  )

    Those empires or political structures that last longest are subject to huge change, a Roman Citizen in 1AD wouldn’t recognise the capital of the Romans in 1450.

    But it’s a cool bat skull, a real find, and as OotKust said, ‘cartilage ‘. It’s all the explanation you need πŸ™‚

    https://jimssfnovelsandwargamerules.wordpress.com/

    #190467
    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley
    Participant

    While YouTube has a habit of deciding I like things I have zero interest in, every now and then it throws up a video that is a good match and yesterday it introduced me to RJL Games [channel link] originally through a video about using felt for terrain (as per the first post of this thread).

    A look at his other videos showed he is the creator of a simple set of rules for the Sengoku Jidai (Warring States Period of Japanese history) entitled ‘Battle Blocks: Sengoku’ Β with both overviews and ‘how to play’ videos for version one and version two of the game:

    The blocks are the mini version of Jenga painted up with labels attached showing unit abilities. The small rings (middle left and right) are used to denote status but the second version has replaced this by marking a second label and putting it on the bottom of the block.

    Going by the intro, the games have 12 units per side and take around 30 minutes on a table 60x60cm – so a good match for me. Troop types differ to the One Hour game and you have leaders BUT the rules are still tight and cover classical formations with v2 of the rules having a mini campaign and scenarios based on historic battles.

    Both rule sets are on Wargames Vault as PDFs:

    V1 of the rules are pay what you want with Β£2.01 being auto-suggested

    V2 of the rules are a step up in production at Β£10 and includes some traditional art work for each battle.

    eBay (U.K. link) have the blocks for around Β£3.50 – a search for Tumble Tower / Jenga and selecting the cheapest should find closely sized blocks (4.5 x 1.5 x 1cm is mentioned) if the above link has gone.

    Gut feel is these could be a nice simple game for me covering the Waring States period that is totally missing from the One Hour rules without taking up any more space.

    I will be honest and question if the V2 rules are worth it given the Kindle version of the One Hour rules are currently Β£3 and the paperback Β£10 – I’ll have to watch the videos more to try and see the differences.

     

    #190480
    Avatar photoJim Webster
    Participant

    certainly sounds interesting and does seem to be carrying you in the direction you were sort of moving πŸ™‚

    Jim

    https://jimssfnovelsandwargamerules.wordpress.com/

    #190485
    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley
    Participant

    certainly sounds interesting and does seem to be carrying you in the direction you were sort of moving πŸ™‚ Jim

    Thanks – it seems to fit with the core blocks game and maybe lift the complexity a little but the heads a total shed so it’s dreams rather than dice at the mo πŸ™

    I had been thinking about figures for the OHW game (esp as I found some Martian tripods while emptying some more ‘junk’ boxes and put them with the Napoleonic Epics) but as the Jega bits will fit in the current box I’ve taken a risk and ordered a tower – with luck the tablets will give me a bit more stability in a few weeks to select the rules and try a game again.

    #190546
    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley
    Participant

    Well I’ve had an exciting day (OK for me it is):

    1. Decided on the simple (first set) of rules – paid the listed ‘offer’ and downloaded them to find they have a grey background to the PDF that I cannot get rid off (grrr) – may not print them at home as it will be a full set of black ink. Tried a few web sites that had background removal but zero luck unless the full colour is stripped out.
    2. The blocks came – very good quality and no real slope to them.
    3. I’ve refound a box of 15mm figures from pre-move. Problem is they have been packed by me when I was in a poor state (i.e. just pilled in a box with a bit of padding).

    The blocks are packaged flat to save using parcel post – hope the glue on the tape is not an issue when I come to spray them:

    As for the figures – I’ve done a quick check and amazingly only found one dino neck bent so far!

    The majority of these are either not based beyond a magnet / coin or part completed bases for the ‘ice lands’ – I used wood glue not PVA early one as they are yellowing (since learnt not to use wood glue).

    It looks like I could have enough to get a reasonable Dragon Rampant force or two up and running. Β Need to sort out better storage in the next few days before dreaming of BIG games πŸ™‚

    #190547
    Avatar photoJim Webster
    Participant

    I must admit I hate it when pdf rules have expensive to print backgrounds. It’s one reason why I always just do my rules on a white background. People want to photocopy stuff or print stuff.

    Or even write notes on the rules for their amendments.

    Anyway glad the figures have survived πŸ™‚

     

     

    https://jimssfnovelsandwargamerules.wordpress.com/

    #190549
    Avatar photoThaddeus Blanchette
    Participant

    I love that jenga blocks idea! I have been trying to do something similar with Napoleonics for a long time now.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    #190566
    Avatar photohammurabi70
    Participant

    As a teenager, more than 50 years ago, I used painted balsa blocks with coloured pins as strength markers.Β  It rather looks as if ideas have come full circle.

    www.olivercromwell.org; www.battlefieldstrust.com
    6mm wargames group: [email protected]; 2mm wargames group: [email protected]

    #190578
    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley
    Participant

    I must admit I hate it when pdf rules have expensive to print backgrounds. It’s one reason why I always just do my rules on a white background. People want to photocopy stuff or print stuff. Or even write notes on the rules for their amendments. Anyway glad the figures have survived πŸ™‚

    I have a few sets that are two PDFs

    1. Plain and easy to print – sometimes with a plain (ie B&W) cover
    2. Full bleed, full colour background

    I even have a few designed for pro-printing with cut marks and CMYK options!

    I do like a ‘posh’ cover but agree that adding marginalia is very very handy so I often have to merge two PDFs – using Doxdirect is great as they can do this for me (and now add tabs for sections).

    As for the figures- there’s undreds of um sir – undreds I tell ye!!!

    Zero idea for sorting / storing at the mo but that’s going to take priority over painting for now – dreamt of bent and broken figures last night (odd dream number two) so the mind is up to its old tricks again. The kind thought helps πŸ™‚

    #190579
    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley
    Participant

    I love that jenga blocks idea! I have been trying to do something similar with Napoleonics for a long time now.

    Spooky as blocks are the only interest I have in Napoleonic games – it was the Kriegspiel game that got me into the blocks in the first place – always loved looking at the big maps at Kellham Hall but never found anyone to talk to about it let alone game it locally.

    Have you see Command Post games? They make some very sweet blocks if you do not want to use the resin blocks as I do from Battlescale.

     

    #190580
    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley
    Participant

    As a teenager, more than 50 years ago, I used painted balsa blocks with coloured pins as strength markers. It rather looks as if ideas have come full circle.

    To miss-quote Noel Harrison – Round like a circle in a spiral, wheel within a wheel πŸ™‚

    The pin idea is way better than the small beads used in the demo games – I flinched every time I saw them fall off the blocks when they got nudged / moved. Could not cope with the beads but small pins and pre-drilled holes could work…

    The second revision has two sets of troop pictures – the first for normal status and the second for disorganised and you flip the block over depending on their state.

    #190585
    Avatar photoThaddeus Blanchette
    Participant

    Here in Brazil, I have a service that will laser cut 6mm thick MDF into any shape I want. I am using them for my blocks.

    My first attempt used two blocks per battalion, as I want to use the Valor & Fortitude rules and thus need formations. I could never think of an elegant graphic solution for that, however.

    So now I am thinking two blocks per battalion, but with one being square and the other rectangular. The square block will have attack column on one side and square on the other, while the rectangular block will have line on one side and march column on the other.

    The goal is to make the graphics as stripped down and elegant as possible so that I can maybe make an even simpler game, such as this one here.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    #190586
    Avatar photoThaddeus Blanchette
    Participant

    You could use a pin to stack beads, Andrew. Drill a hole in the back center of the block; drop a pin in; drop beads down the pin as casualty markers.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    #190587
    Avatar photoThaddeus Blanchette
    Participant

    The more I think about it, the more I want my battalions like this:

    1) Two blocks per battalion, one rectangular and one square.

    2) Front side normal, back side disrupted (one hit).

    3) Special markers to indicate square and march formation (a hollow square piece for the first and a triangle for the second).

    4) Break point and higher formation rules at division or even corps level, so slight color tone changes in the blocks indicate who belongs to what.

    5) Otherwise, a really clean graphic presentation, with only the unit type symbol on the block.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    #190590
    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley
    Participant

    Would the idea of changing blocks to denote square vs line vs column work rather than markers? i.e. merge points 1 and 3. I would possibly use all four sides of the rectangular blocks giving two line and two column but a different block for squares (only using the two fatter sides).

    May need to draw the above if I am not clear πŸ™‚

    The block game earlier in this thread does not know about line vs column and squares are optional – I also have one type of foot vs Old Guard, Regulars etc πŸ™‚ All trying to keep the clutter on the board down due to lack of space and my general dislike of such ‘bits’.

    The original OHW rules had 15 hits per unit and turned into a meat grinder at first contact – I cut that down to three hits as that gave time for support from close units and kept the game short. The Sengoku rules require two ‘hits’ in one turn to remove the block so I’m interested in seeing how that works across the board – you may get breakthroughs popping up along the line that should be fun to manage…

    Point 5 is interesting – would you use the ‘normal’ symbols such as the diagonal line or are you going to give the units names (1st Foot and Mouth etc)? Sengoku rules mention the units are mixed gun / foot / cavalry unlike other periods so the main marking is for troop class or level (hero, normal, poor).

    #190667
    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley
    Participant

    Just spent 4 1/2 hours picking through the box of figures and found 1 dice, 318 15mm and 32 28mm:

    • 14 cave imps
    • 18 Monkey men
    • 1 Monkey men catapult
    • 36 Squirrel bow / standards / spears / swords
    • 4 Centaurs
    • 16 Big orcs
    • 9 Frogs
    • 2 Giant frog monsters
    • 13 smallish Beastmen inc standard and musician
    • 10 tall thin lizard men
    • 10 squat fat lizard men
    • 18 Kobolds
    • 6 Squat dino two legged no arms
    • 12 thin dino runners with arms and long tails (seen recently on a site)
    • 6 Beaver men with clubs
    • 5 Big animals – Aztec / Native American scouts
    • 8 giant scorpions (28mm – hard to say as how big is a giant scorpion?)
    • 49 misc small animals (mice rats etc)
    • 4 Winged ice demons
    • 2 big ice demons
    • 1 Yeti
    • 1 BIG Sabre-tooth tiger (moved into the Palaeo box already)
    • 1 Qupqugiaq (polar bear with 10 legs!)
    • 1 small polar bear
    • 8 ice ripper figures (GW Tryanid 28s technically but set for 15s)
    • 10 penguins
    • 3 musk ox
    • 49 Inuit (think I am a banner missing to make the round 50)
    • 1 oil barrel (open and empty)

    Then in 28 / 32mm size:

    • Β 7 GW skeletons (special pack)
    • Rat ogre missing foot
    • 2 Resin frogs
    • 1 resin ogre
    • 1 metal bugbear
    • 8 metal hobbits
    • 4 GW plastic wild orcs
    • 1 resin night goblin
    • 2 big spiders
    • 2 metal rats
    • 1 plastic rat
    • 1 resin small shambler
    • 1 mug with a styrge on it

    The 15mm Inuit / Ice age are Mick Yarrow with the majority of the remaining Splintered Light but some others I know have changed hands a couple of times so I’ll have to try and find them if I even need any more (now that’s a warmer dreaming). All the 15s are painted and stuck on a base that needs covering / flock etc and the 28s are naked.

    This obviously gives me a little issue – I only have a very small bit of 15mm terrain and no real suitable scenery (a couple of ACW / Russian / AWI style buildings and maybe a goblin hut or two) and zero idea of rules to use with this number of figures (Dragon Rampant is in storage somewhere) but I’m not up to sorting this pile beyond this (and loath to sell I think) so a few ideas:

    1. Complete the tiger for Palaeo diet games
    2. Do a few more humans for this (seem to have ‘misplaced’ one already)
    3. Use a few of the thin dinos for this game
    4. Pick a few out for SoBH – squirrels vs something I think using some of the Palaeo terrain and a house or two
    5. Pop the rest under the bed
    6. Shelve any 28mm games – just use for painting relaxation as a break

     

    #190677
    Avatar photoJim Webster
    Participant

    One thing that does jump out at me, a solo campaign with the Inuit settling in new territory, and the other creatures are random wandering monsters that they have to deal with. Perhaps the other stuff are set on them by the monkey men?

    πŸ™‚

    Jim

    https://jimssfnovelsandwargamerules.wordpress.com/

    #190679
    Avatar photoian pillay
    Participant

    Andrew, that’s a lot of figures. I dare not go through mine.

    As to rules, I picked these up the other day from Wargame Les Vault, not played them yet but might work for your collection.

    Four Delvers by Dave Bezio.

    (sorry I can’t get the link to copy)

     

    Tally-Ho! Check out my blog at…..
    http://steelcitywargaming.wordpress.com/

    #190692
    Avatar photoJim Webster
    Participant

    Without being rude Ian, it’s not a lot. I just painted up the infantry for a 15mm Mithridatic army (144 figures) and a late Roman army of 64 infantry and 24 cavalry) from out of my lead mountain. These aren’t figures that I purchased for the job, they’re just what I sort of acquired over the years, spares from other projects πŸ™‚

    And I still have embarrassing heaps to go at πŸ™‚

    I would categorise Andrew’s figures as a nice collection, not too large, but it is enough to spur imagination. And it is not so much that he needs to consider reinforcing the floor of the room he’s got it stored in πŸ™‚

     

    https://jimssfnovelsandwargamerules.wordpress.com/

    #190694
    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley
    Participant

    I think you are both correct – INFP here you know πŸ™‚

    Compared to some hoards this is a drop in the lead puddle but for a guy used to a max of 12 units a table (not a side) it’s a bit mind blowing.

    Fortunately they will not take a lot of storage space (1 box) so I can pull a few out (orcs and squirrels) for now and go with that for SoBH – maybe the squirrels are defending a sacred tree stump that the orcs want for fuel? I can then use the trees I have with the big stump from post Partizan shopping and keep the combat area small – no worry then about human houses with no human figures… Possible use felt to mark out a set of paths and rule no going off these due to the woods being so overgrown or maybe the squirrels can go off path or they move easier than the orcs in the woods (three game versions for one scenario)???

    Nothings going to get done this week though – carpet, suite and shelf unit due Tuesday but no date on rest of furniture so things still in piles πŸ™‚ πŸ™

    I know where my soft copy of SoBH is (iCloud) but not seen the paper one for about 18 months I think… Not to worry it will turn up at some point πŸ™‚

    @Ian – always up to read rules even if they do not stick. Still owe you a comment or two don’t I?

    @Jim – I’m currently starting a book based on Doggerland that could make a great fictional map – its post freeze but that’s not an issue and gets over my stumbling block of real maps and the Ukraine.

    @Thaddeus – not forgotten the blocks! I’ve a video link to post about an OOP game (Β£170) that has some neat ideas for block markings and map movement. I’m stuck with just my phone at the mo (and it’s 03:40) so links are out!

    Big thanks for the comments folks Β – really makes me feel good at the mo! Docs in 6 hrs wish me luck.

    #190695
    Avatar photoJim Webster
    Participant

    Best of luck with the Doc. Daydream about the map of Doggerland whilst you’re waiting πŸ™‚

    https://jimssfnovelsandwargamerules.wordpress.com/

    #190720
    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley
    Participant

    @Jim – only running 10 minutes behind time (at 09:20) so not bad. Doc happy to pass me to the mental health specialist in the practise and as we think the tablets have my attacks manageable he does not want to see me again πŸ™‚ I should be able to manage the withdrawal (been there, done that) when I’m ready but can call him if needed…

    @Thaddeus – I came across an old game (now out of production) while watching 2mm LOTRΒ  [Youtube – T’s Creative Ramblings] called Napoleon’s Triumph (BGG Link here) based on the Battle of Austerlitz. I tracked down a ‘how to play’ video despite the BGG site quoting Β£130+ a copy:

    Spoilers:

    I like the idea of:

    1. Representing the unit strength on the block by the number of symbols
    2. The formation moves vs unit combat (though I did get a bit lost in the examples)
    3. The map defining the number of units that can attack by the joint lines
    4. Irregular movement areas (rather than hex / square moves) – leads to a better ebb and flow based on the terrain compared to my simple move adjustments
    5. The flags / overlays for the generals (zero use for me but neat)

    Combat looked too complex for me to pick up from the video (esp with artillery being shows as separate combat) but it was an early morning watch TBH. I would also say the map looks a bit messy with symbols splattered all over it – I know they need to show limits but I think different line types may have done better (similar to our white line road markings).

    As for the game itself – looking through the BGG comments I came across:

    Depending on your budget, you may want to first get a mouthguard and just buy NT. It’s one of the best the wargame hobby has ever made

    So apologies in advanced if you start to drool and get into trouble for spending so much on a game but you may get an idea or two πŸ™‚

    Good news from my part – I’ve found the old rivers etc I had cut out (no idea why they got separated but the place has been a mess) and the local ‘odd bits’ shop has the felt back in stock (they had horrible stiff, semi-transparent stuff recently) so I can start to put the game back together again!

    #190725
    Avatar photoSteve Johnson
    Participant

    Glad the Docs went well! I’m a big fan of blocks and love the kriegspiel aesthetic they bring to a game. Not everyone’s cup of tea but they work for me:).

    #190727
    Avatar photoJim Webster
    Participant

    Glad the doc went well, onwards and upwards πŸ™‚

    https://jimssfnovelsandwargamerules.wordpress.com/

    #190761
    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley
    Participant

    Great news I found the printed SoBH rules (well the first book) and remembered I had a copy of Song of Splintered Lands created for these figures as a PDF.

    In true hoarder tradition, I’ve never used them (I do remember reading the background a long time ago) but it gives me stats for the Squirrel figures though they only have Goblins in Moonglade so the Orcs will come from the basic rules.

    Not too fussed over any points differences as this is for fun πŸ™‚

    My question is about this thread… I started documenting my games as part of my W.R.A.P.Β  (hope and support) and want to keep going but should I split it into block games and 15mm or keep it together (sorry – that’s a Freudian slip – no now two MH jokes in 1 sentence arrrgggh)?

    My preference is for one thread but it feels a bit unfair on those only interested in blocks to sift through 15s etc…

    (Yes panic mode and INFP strikes again – how to keep you happy??? The support via the comments really does help)…

    #190762
    Avatar photoJim Webster
    Participant

    For me, just keep it on one thread, easier to find πŸ™‚

    https://jimssfnovelsandwargamerules.wordpress.com/

    #190763
    Avatar photowarwell
    Participant

    Do what’s better for you

    #190795
    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley
    Participant

    Well, todays news release could be bad for Og carrier of β€˜The Spear of the Ancestors’ – I guess ‘she who should be obeyed’ will want to move out of the cave!

    For those who are lost:

    Researchers found evidence the wood had been used to build a structure almost half a million years ago.
    The findings, published in the journal Nature, suggest stone-age people built what may have been shelters…

    Full news article (where the above was taken from) is on the BBC website with the full article here in Nature. Lots of interesting finds now documented – wonder if they will find enough to identify the tools used (beyond the ‘a broad, sharp, cleaver-like edge’ noted)?

    Interesting to note the similarity to Star Carr here in the UK despite that being Mesolithic compared to Middle Pleistocene (11K years ago vs 476K years).

    I had just bought some tents from AA but they are really really small – doubt they will make the unpainted pile let alone the table. I’ll possible replace them with a bit of carved foam and tissue paper for the ‘canvas’.

    Given that Og (carrier …) was not in the box when I put the sabre tooth tiger in there he may have done a runner already πŸ™‚

    #190812
    Avatar photoJim Webster
    Participant

    Tissue paper over something can work really well

    I saw the article as well, interesting

    https://jimssfnovelsandwargamerules.wordpress.com/

    #190860
    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley
    Participant

    As things are getting sorted in the house (I have a book shelf again) its frightening the bits I’ve found again but they will come in handy for the 15mm games above:

    Trees from China (sorry no link as they are years old):

    and the most beautiful model trees I have ever seen (solo one is a bit squished / flat):

    So that’s the forest filler for the squirrel vs orc game (SvsO) to base up…

    I ordered (originally for Bonefields) some dead stumps that I can also use. Shown here with a bit of tile I’ve found for a pond:

    Building wise, I’ve extracted (from a 28mm box of all things):

    and not forgetting the palaeo new lodging (see above):

    and some ‘bits’ that could be victory points for the skirmish:

    So the to-do list for the SvsO SoBH game:

    1. Find and paint the big tree stump from Partizan (maybe before the next Partizan)
    2. Base up the trees
    3. Base up the baskets
    4. Make a pond (tile and cork)
    5. Make up some paths (felt)

    Think I may get sabot style bases for the trees from Oshiro (I would use Warbases as normal but unable to get their web page to work and they do not seem interested in the issue) or just get loose bases from eBay. Not sure yet but I do like the dark forest basing from Geek Gaming Scenics and may use that.

    #190869
    Avatar photoJim Webster
    Participant

    You’ve uncovered a treasure trove πŸ™‚

    https://jimssfnovelsandwargamerules.wordpress.com/

    #190877
    Avatar photoOotKust
    Participant

    Just spent 4 1/2 hours picking through the box of figures and found 1 dice, 318 15mm and 32 28mm:

    Can’t seem to find any Napoleonics that match those troop types!
    Hah!
    Well Andrew, as they said, do whats best for you.
    I have a menagerie of storage boxes/ icecream containers and pill bottles (hey pre-Diabetic for 15 years you collect stuff). Now i really need to economise as well (on space taken in a 2br flat).

    Figures, well, my ‘well defined’ plans evolved 25 years ago, and have been subject to variation since reforming and recogitating since 2018.

    For two years I made good progress on the French (about 20% to start/ complete); a little side action on Austrians; but revisionist planning meant I’ve adopted the RussianΒ army ‘ancilliary’ components buying since ’22 to assist the Austrian enemy. Most documented here anyway.

    To get space back (and reduce use of the large desk in lounge as my painting table quite so long); as well as ROI make one hobby pay for the other (+ reference books of course!)Β  I have to sell off the N Scale models that I accumulated.. I hope the economy holds out …

    Scenery is there forever mate- get it made up and use it every time. There’s nothing special about ‘scale’ trees- the ‘mania’ of ratios and scales is one of the rorts perpetrated on modellers. You have scale trees? I can find a bigger real one, which will be, in scale! Not shrunken little messes!
    Best of luck, dave

    #190892
    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley
    Participant

    Rather than sorting the garden boxes out (well it did spit a little) I’ve started a pond for the 15mm game today:

    So that’s a vinyl tile cut out and as it’s stick back I’ve stuck it to a plastic sheet.

    A bit of cork, sculpt-mold and 30 mins I realised I slipped up and forgot to add paint to the plaster mix πŸ™

    Not to worry – brown paint, sand and flock will take care of it tomorrow.

    #190893
    Avatar photoOotKust
    Participant

    A bit of cork, sculpt-mold and 30 mins I realised I slipped up and forgot to add paint to the plaster mix

    Never mind- in fact I vary the look by actually daubing a wet brush with paint into the wet plasters, forms a trail of peaks and valleys that show contours that based figures can still move on.
    **Cleaning with warm water, hand soap if necessary quickly removes any left on plaster/ medium and you’re good to go again.

    Nothing sacrosanct about terrain techniques- sure in the old days stiff plasters used to crack and show white; modern plastics are more flexible and apart from the odd tree come loose from its base (PVA repair) I’ve not had problems.

    Just on paints- again nothing special- realising that kids ‘poster’ paints that sell for $8 for 300ml is a helluva lot better value than some poncey pseudo-special shade for ‘modellers’ at 30ml at the same price!

    A friend gave me some of his mrs’ overage paint packets and I continue to use those that are friable a decade later. A red poster paint brand I can blend from scarlet to crimson in a matter of seconds depending upon my needs.

    The effects, coverage and ultimately wear of the (matt sprayed) end product is just the same. Cheers dave

Viewing 40 posts - 121 through 160 (of 214 total)
  • You must be logged in to reply to this topic.