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    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley

    Managed to get a few bits done this week for the squirrel vs orc game:

    • WWS dead trees – nice a large as they are for 28s
    • Alternate Armies ruins – more 15s than the 20s from Splintered Light but fine for ‘scatter’

    I may add a bit of the moss and ground flock to the tree stumps – not sure yet.

    The big stump I had planned to paint is in a “safe place” (ie I cannot find it) so these stumps are stand-ins as a target area for the raid.

    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley

    And so the Palaeo game is not left out I completed the second pond:

    I also went a bit mad after the news of the woodworking and decided that a hone base was required so built a small group of buildings for the tribe to occupy:

    complete with garden:

    and ancestor(s):

    Two games spring to mind:

    • A mammoth after some tasty food – possibly a solitary male going by this article in sci-news
    • Recovering the grandparents after a wolf attack

    Now the electrics are done (we have heat downstairs in time for winter) and carpets being sorted I’ve just got the gunk on the hall wall to sort and I can play a game or two. I actually dug out Ogre the other day – a fair amount of plastic to build (I have the Kickstarter set amongst other bits) but had to find the early rules (sadly cut up 3rd edition from ’77) as the GEV & minis set are too deep for me currently.

    Avatar photoMike

    oooh I like the little settlement!

    Avatar photoJim Webster

    I love the terrain 🙂


    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley

    I will admit that the pre-history I look at tends to be European in nature but I stumbled on this early history overview from Minnesota the other day:


    It covers 12,000 BC – AD 1650

    Note: You may need to turn off ad-blockers and answer a Capture or two to get to the site…

    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley

    Stepped well out of my comfort zone yesterday with a trip to our esteemed hosts home and his 12mm Warhammer collection (Yes the flag really does fly outside the house – its not CGI).

    With the fascinating posts here and the increased ‘Old World’ news in general I’ve been dreaming back to my Skaven figures and the fun I had with the kids (and they where kids) many many years ago and I had promised a get together ages ago.

    Mike very kindly loaned my some of his Orc figures (individual bases – arggghhh) and sorted a simple game for me to try a complex set of rules (well not for most but they are for me) in a simple scrap between the Empire and Orcs.

    Neither of us took any pics (unless Mike had CCTV in the room) but notable highlights included:

    • An Empire General throwing himself under a orc catapult rock to save the unit of troops he was next to (OK I missed but flukily hit the general)
    • A fireball battle in the middle of the table (that I lost)
    • Two brave crossbow men charging an orc unit from the side
    • And an Orc warboss that could not hit a tree if he was stood on it.

    A good time was had – mind blown so much I did not go to bed till 4:30 this morning as the head would not shut up.

    Even the simplified (i.e. more sensible / less outrageous) rules Mike kindly put together for me had the old grey matter churning and its so tempting to buy into the scale (even if not WH 3rd)…

    If you get a chance to have a game with Mike JUMP AT IT – you would have to travel miles for such a gracious / courteous host.


    Avatar photoJim Webster

    Sounds like a cracking game!
    I’ve had games where I couldn’t sleep after because my head wouldn’t shut up. I always take it as a sign of a really good game 🙂


    Avatar photoMike

    If you get a chance to have a game with Mike JUMP AT IT – you would have to travel miles for such a gracious / courteous host.

    Bless ya cottons!


    <p style=”text-align: left;”>Good show!</p>

    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley

    …I’ve had games where I couldn’t sleep after because my head wouldn’t shut up…

    Two nights now – not a good sign…

    Need to be up early Tuesday as well so time for a walk and chill I think (hate my mind when it’s like this – arrggg).

    Avatar photoDarkest Star Games

    If you get a chance to have a game with Mike JUMP AT IT – you would have to travel miles for such a gracious / courteous host.

      Can confirm, flew 4,700 miles and trained another 193 miles for a visit with Mike and Co. and had a wonderful time! The dude brews a cupa that is enjoyable to even a wayward American like me.

    It’s great that you got to play, and playing something fun is one of the best bugs you can catch.

    "I saw this in a cartoon once, but I'm pretty sure I can do it..."

    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley

    Way back in July 2021 (gasp) I showed the Lincolnshire flag as being the colours I wanted to paint the blocks in and today I actually changed the green to match a little better!

    Looking at the pic, a few (top right) may get another coat this afternoon but TBH they look fine on to the eye. Now to find the rules and summary sheet etc!

    Blowing the dust off some of the paints I did find a lot of the cheap eBay painting balls have rusted over the years:

    Not sure if this will impact the paints or not – the ball still seams to be in the bottle (no way to extract easily) – anyone any idea?

    Fortunately, most of the paints have Army Painter balls in them but I really need to check the lighter colours…

    Next up the test Ogre minis and base up some Palaeo figures (inc doggies) for undercoating and painting. As I have not found my missing hero yet I think a set of simple quest rules for the map is a winter project – they can go hunting for The Spear of The Ancestors 🙂


    Ogre Heavy Tank – green is shiny and it’s not the best pic! but gives you an idea:

    I had forgotten how dark paints look on 6mm tanks (it being nearly 45 years since I painted any) but I’m happy with the result.

    I’ve also dug out a MY Minis Elasmotherium to eat the vegetables in the little homestead. As per normal with MY figs, they are not the most detailed but this will do fine as a challenge for the folk:

    He is a BIG brute – 6cm tip of horn to end of the tail. Need to get a base ordered as I have nothing of that size. Sadly, he is way bigger than my mammoths – they will have to be pigmy ones if they are on the table at the same time (I know, these beasts where 15 foot in length IRL but still out of scale).

    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley

    Having got the blocks touched up I now need to sort the felt and make sure I have the terrain for all the scenarios in the book. Fortunately the local shop still keeps the felt so any replacements not going to be an issue (bar from light fading the colours or changes in dye).

    At the start of this game I created a list of the terrain used in the provided scenarios and the approximate size for the full board (3 x 3 feet is the ‘recommended’ size) but I have now updated this for my 1×1 foot game. The PDF can be found on Dropbox here if you are interested – no need to sign in if you only want to view the doc (just close the pop up request).

    Note it’s a long time* since I shared a document this way so let me know if you fancy a look but cannot access it.

    * So long I’ve lost access to BOX and my old blog storage 🙂

    Avatar photoDarkest Star Games

    That chart looks like it’ll be very handy.

    I had forgotten how dark paints look on 6mm tanks (it being nearly 45 years since I painted any) but I’m happy with the result.

    As you should be, that tank looks fantastic!


    "I saw this in a cartoon once, but I'm pretty sure I can do it..."

    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley

    Got a bit of painting done for Palaeo Diet.

    First up is the largest opponent so far who will be looking to nibble on the garden:

    and the ‘brave’ (still to be proven) defenders:

    I also got the wolves lair sorted:

    I decided that basic flesh was boring so added a few tribal markings that will help identify the figures on-going. Still no sign of the missing man – but I’ve decided he has gone fishing (her indoors complaining over the bugs in the roof of the new house) for now 🙂

    Very pleased with the lair – it’s a 3D print and despite a lack of texture it will go very nicely in the game.

    Still need a bit of time to complete the bases (decided to paint the edges black) and add a coat of varnish but that can wait till I’ve ordered and received the bases for the larger figures in store…

    Did absolutely zero on the blocks felt – got a bit carried away with the brush this week! At least the felt does not need the table clearing so I may slide that in next week and be ready to game in December.

    Avatar photoMike

    I will have to dig out some of my 15mm and see if that will be of any use for you.

    Avatar photoJim Webster

    You’ve made a nice job of painting those figures. They look well 🙂


    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley

    Yes, I know I’m early but I honestly feel lousy and going to curl up so thought I would post this tonight while still awake 🙂

    First a big thanks to Mike for both running this site and putting up with my feeble attempt at Warhammer.

    Second is a big thank you for the kind comments and support you all have shown my waffling throughout the past year – you have no idea how much its meant and helped.

    So what’s happened and what is next for me?

    Looking back I’ve managed to have more games over the last year or so than the previous five and even had a human opponent for two of them. Not bad for a wreck of a guy who struggles to get up some days.

    I really enjoyed the One Hour block games so expect to see more of them in the next year – not sure I’ll be able to emulate Whirlwind on Heretical Gaming and the impressive / massive play through of all the scenarios but I’ll get one or two played. I did feel uncomfortable using a real map for the campaign (reminded me too much of the Ukraine struggles) so I’ll look to set up a Snakes and Ladders style board and see how that goes.

    Not sure what to do about terrain, scenery or figures yet – I would like to ‘posh up’ the felt using the bits I have around the house but wonder if I should move to a larger size board and figures… 2mm or 3mm attract me a lot (3D prints I guess with MM closing) though 10-15mm would let me share the bits I have for Palaeo and I could use some of the Warlord sprues I collected at low cost. I may just try a base or two to see what doable / practicable / affordable.

    If anything the block games will be my number one focus next year as I want to:

    • Complete the felt scenery that I started with for a few scenarios
    • Try an idea for basing the buildings I painted to allow the troops to occupy the villages / towns
    • Tweak the rules a little (morale / breaking off combat)
    • Run a simple ladder style campaign (with supplies maybe)
    • And of course the Sengoku game [Wargames Vault link] never got out of the ‘to-do’ pile!

    Palaeo Diet gave me a few challenges as I had no real scenery at the start but I’ve now a nice collection that covered (sorry) the simple games I played. I do want to try more hunting games and have some figures ready to order the bases once the New Year rolls around and the U.K. post settles down.

    Despite (or finally depending on who you are) finding Spear of the Ancestors I am going to play a map based game to link these odd hunts together – I need to read the supplements to see the story mode and human vs human rules but this will drive the games this year.

    I never did get a game of SoBH fantasy played – I have found all the rules, many many 15mm figures and got some scenery done but missed the actual gameplay! Let’s see how 2024 goes – the Orcs and Squirrels are still handy so all I need to do is sort the trees…

    Bonefields was a surprise find / wash out (and most of my budget) – but at least I can use the figures for SoBH and it did show I need to practice painting bigger figures… I have put the majority of the 28mm figures away and am giving serious thought to selling the sci-fi bits but I do enjoy painting (very mindful) so that’s one thing I am going to pick up again. I do have a ‘paint by numbers’ kit sat around (yes – nothing to do with games), a few figures that have slipped through the clear out and from the front of the odd magazine I’ve not given away so this will get my hand in and let me sort the yucky paints I’ve buried in the drawers!

    The second surprise was trying Warhammer with Mike – not a great success TBH as I could not get my mind around the many many options in the game and felt a bit (well lots) lost in the end. Mike has offered to try Mordheim with me (IIRC he plays it at the club he goes to) and I have most of a Skaven troop – just missing the giant rats. With C19 leaving me with a ridiculous cough and lack of breath it’s going to take a while till I feel comfortable to sit with anyone though.

    The other curve-ball for ’24 is Ogre / GEV. It’s a game that I’ve always loved (though over the years I never found a regular local opponent) and finally the last of the minis are going to be released in plastic [Backerkit link]. Bang goes most of my years budget in January but it’s my only chance to complete the minis. It’s going to be a low priority to get these painted (yup straight onto the lead plastic pile) though as I’ve got enough to paint for a Mk3 vs small units out ready.

    So with luck it looks like my 2024 gaming will be:

    • More block games based around a campaign
    • More Palaeo Diet games based around a simple map journey
    • More PD figures and the odd bit of terrain (water being the obvious thing I’m short of)

    Then I just need to slot in:

    • Trying to get my head around Mordheim (gulp)
    • A bit of SoBH apart from Palaeo Diet
    • Possible refresh on the block game terrain / figures
    • Practise painting
    • Possible Mk3 Ogre attack

    Again a big thanks to all and wishing you a Happy New Year – may your dice always roll what you need when you want it (unless you are my opponent of course).

    Avatar photoJim Webster

    Don’t beat yourself up Andrew, the stuff you’ve posted has always been interesting and worth reading. A lot of nice ideas and chat. Anyway wishing you a really good New Year.


    Avatar photoWhirlwind

    Happy New Year Andrew – and best of luck with your plans!

    Avatar photoShaun Travers

    You got lots of games in, and you have a bunch in store for 2024.  Not a bad thing.  Happy new year to you too Andrew!

    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley

    Thanks all.

    I’ve just come across this picture (from the defunct Tiny Tanks blog) that has a neat idea for a town when using Kallistra hexes.

    From what I can gather, the OP (Bish) had the triangles made specifically to fit the hexes and allow the two troop bases to fit in the middle. Very neat as it shows the troops are in place but not sure if it is an advantage over using a blank base with the lines and gardens on it.

    The original blog is off line but available via the Internet archive at this link.

    I have seen Mikes photo base and made sabot bases before but still think the road / garden base is the way for me.


    I may have waffled so much that I may have dreamt about describing my plan (or I have forgotten that I did) ! The small buildings I painted are for the towns in the block game but give me issues when troops occupy the area – I hate wobbly units precariously balanced on roof tops so I was going to make an empty base the same layout and size as the buildings but with only the roads and gardens painted in that I can swap in as needed.

    Avatar photoJim Webster

    It is a nice idea. You could actually use it for determining the number of units in a town. The hex only has room for the right number of units


    Avatar photoDarkest Star Games

    Say, a new version of OGRE has come out in videogame format (purchasable via Steam) which includes head-to-head play.  I’ve got it but not given it a try.  I’ll poke around with it and if it seems viable perhaps we could get a bash in?  He have a 6 hour time difference (with me farther west) but I think it could be doable.  Not a real “face to face” game, but we would be able to get stuck right in without having to paint minis!  Hopefully it fully emulates the tabletop rules.

    Will let you know how it looks!


    "I saw this in a cartoon once, but I'm pretty sure I can do it..."

    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley

    @Darkest Star Games – having suffered many years at the hands of IT (was my profession till I broke) computer games are something I’ve not played for many many years 🙂

    I have asked on the Ogre forum (here) if the game will run on my Mac as the Steam listing is for old Intel Macs…

    No idea how to get Steam running either – there are lots of posts saying the Apple Silicon gives Steam issues and I’m not that keen on debugging big computer systems anymore!

    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley

    Between sleeps (still suffering from the after effects of C19) I’ve come across a solo player of One Hour Wargames on YouTube

    Just off to watch the Viking invasion of England in 28mm 🙂


    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley

    Finally got enough energy not to sit around after doing the washing up today (still falling asleep after any activity post C19) and decided I would complete the full set of felt terrain for my block OHW games.

    I did find a couple of calculation errors on my sheet and one redundant hill (I’m not fussed if the hill is 5x10cm vs 7x9cm TBH) but here is my set:

    I may redo the marshes at some point (the two grey/blue in the middle) – I’ve since found a darker green/brown/blue sheet of felt but that’s for another day…

    Looking top left to bottom right I now have:

    • 7 x Hills
    • 7 x Forests (or wooded areas)
    • 3 x towns
    • 2 x marshes
    • 2 x lakes
    • 2 x roads
    • 2 x bridges
    • 1 x river (just peeking out)

    I did not do the crossroad or fords as these are just where the roads cross themselves or the river but I did create the bridges as they are used without roads in scenario 3 and can be used as fords and the two are not differentiated in the rules when they appear together.

    Not sure if I will write the sizes directly on the back or possibly add a sticky label to them – I’ll see if I need them marking or not as TBH it’s a bit OCD to use exactly the ‘correct’ bits but I feel happier to be close to the authors imagination.

    I did find my poor old map has suffered with creases over the last few months from being in the box while it was stuffed with the ‘spare’ felt – I have a crack or two in the paint spray I used on the material so may roll this up in future. Looks OK though with a little brush when laid out so no repairs needed.

    And the great news is that everything still fits in one 9L RUB box now I’ve added another try to the top – I’m using the inserts from Warbases to hold general items and the RUB square tray for the counters.

    Next step is to draft up the ‘snakes and ladders’ style board for the campaign – may get it done tonight ready for a game or two in February 🙂

    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley

    On a roll tonight – sorted a campaign map / flow.

    Basically it is Blue attacking and working its way to the Red home (top right).

    A D6 (maybe D4) determines move with a forced stop at the big boxes at the end of each row and the very simple drawings give a basic layout to fight over – this needs a lot more work for campaign 2 but works as a starting point 🙂 This gives a minimum of 5 games out of 10 on the map and (very) loosely gives a story line.

    The games (in order) are:

    • 3 – battle over the river with two crossings
    • 21 – Blue has to take a town and hill
    • 12 – Red is defending a bridge but is unaware of another crossing point
    • 17 – Slugfest over a hill
    • 26 – Disorganised defence by Red
    • 9 – Blue needs to seize a town
    • 22 – Blue ambushes Red from the forest
    • 23 – Red is suffering insurrection so Blue has irregulars and Red has to cross the board
    • 24 – Blue has to clear a road and the areas to the side of it
    • 30 – Red fight to the last man defending the capital with elite troops

    I’ve not added any rules for supply / recovery or reinforcements beyond the few notes on the board – that can come way down the line if things go well.

    Avatar photoian pillay

    Looking really good Andrew. I’ve got a S&L campaign drawn up, one of the rules I’ve used is if both forces land on the same square, I fight a skirmish game. The set piece battles are at the end of the rows, same as yours.
    I do like the idea of having “terrain” behind the board to indicate where the battles take place. Definitely incorporating that into my S&L campaign.

    Tally-Ho! Check out my blog at…..

    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley

    Thanks Ian,

    Use of the terrain on the map was a bit contrived. I had selected one of the battles that had a river in it and thought ‘I’ll put the river on the map’ and the other battles and bits came from that.

    Spent an hour or so wondering how I could use a map before it dawned on me that a S&L board does not have to be straight – as long as there is a path connecting the points then the ‘squares’ can be anywhere!

    I did think about a two way board but decided this was going to be a stretch for me and TBH these two bits have taken more out of me than I thought as I was so tired tonight I fell down the last two stairs due to not concentrating!

    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley

    Despite the aches and pains (and d**n cough still) I’ve managed to get a few bits painted and based:

    A pair of woolly rhinos (Coelodonta antiquitatis) join the now based Elasmotherium:

    I do have a young rhino but could not put my hands on a wood base so that’s back in the ‘pile of  shame’ for now.

    The last figure is more for the 15mm game but may make a ‘guest’ appearance in Paleo! Meet the Entus Biggus:

    The hands/claws are big but the camera has exaggerated his right one a bit more than I expected 🙂

    Not sure if they will get varnished for now – I normally use a spray  but not tried it on resin (it’s an old old tin of Vallejo) and no idea if it will react and the weather is not great (damp / cold) so I may wait for a month or two and a sunny day.

    I do have a couple of bits that I’m not fussed over (the raft and oar) so may use that as a test.

    To be fair, I’ve not heard anyone having issues with varnish and resin prints – there was a post on LAF about plastic figures going sticky but that’s as close as I have seen. Anyone else know of any issues?

    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley

    Been testing painting a resin river section I picked up at Partizan from Magnetic Displays (Coritani).

    It’s a grey undercoat with earth edges, sand river section with a very light blue wash and death guard green applied with a sponge over the sand.

    The final ones will have the edges flocked, Mod Podge ripples and the odd real stone added.

    I found the blue wash pooled at the edges and brush strokes galore forced the use of the sponge but for a test piece I am heading in the right direction. May try it without the blue wash (my pot is old and has flakes of dried ‘ink’ in it) or mix up a paint based replacement next.

    Size wise they are perfect for Palaeo but too wide for the blocks.

    Avatar photoLogain

    Love that Ent.

    Avatar photoWhirlwind

    Finally got enough energy not to sit around after doing the washing up today (still falling asleep after any activity post C19) and decided I would complete the full set of felt terrain for my block OHW games. I did find a couple of calculation errors on my sheet and one redundant hill (I’m not fussed if the hill is 5x10cm vs 7x9cm TBH) but here is my set: I may redo the marshes at some point (the two grey/blue in the middle) – I’ve since found a darker green/brown/blue sheet of felt but that’s for another day…

    My set-up is very very similar to yours for OHW games: I have a wicker basket with two slim plastic boxes in, one for all the terrain bases (very similar to your felt) and the houses and bridges and so on, and the other one for the trees. The set of hills I keep around the edges of the basket. And then the two ultra-slim plastic boxes with the WSS figures live on top.  It is a really handy set up and has all the ‘basic’ terrain I need in for any game, plus ‘all’ the terrain I need for any OHW scenario.

    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley

    @Logain – must admit I fell in love with the figure the first time I saw it and TBH it’s the best impulse purchase I’ve made in years!

    @Whirlwind – I’ve really grown to appreciate the smaller games despite the ‘wow’ factor. Maybe it comes from all the small pocket hex and counter games I used to play? Or failing that I’m getting old enough to appreciate a decent storage solution keeps the dust away!

    As for small things – the three biggest figures for Palaeo have now been done:

    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley

    While digging around I found some cork tiles (£3 for 4 from B&M) and decided that I would create some classic rocky areas for the Stone Age guys to run over:

    For some reason the superglue decided not to stick this time so it took a couple of extra days (4 in total) but very happy with the result.

    House rules will limit the type of animals that can cross these (knew those goats would come in handy one day) and maybe restrict archery despite the tallest one only being 3+cm tall. Not sure if the original SoBH rules had a height advantage (+1 to the roll is a major bonus on a D6) but I’ll have a read.

    EDIT: Would have helped if I had a figure in the pic – the largest one (at the front) is 18cm end to end

    Avatar photoDarkest Star Games

    You’re trucking along quite nicely on this project, Andrew.  It excites me to see people making progress, helps to motivate me to do the same.  Keep it up!

    "I saw this in a cartoon once, but I'm pretty sure I can do it..."

    Avatar photoJim Webster

    The outcrops look nice. The perfect place to cower from those creatures that cannot cross 🙂


    Avatar photoAndrew Beasley

    Been out for a while (physical and mental health not too good) but pottered around over the last two weeks and got a few resin river pieces painted up:

    Decided not to go for the green in the end and went classic blue – they just did not sit right on the mat despite the green being close to the local dykes in colour! I did not want a lot of ‘white water’ as these are for use as streams in Palaeo Diet but I did add a bit of ripple with gloss Mod Podge (nothing like being traditional here):



    These are the Magnetic Displays / Coritani river sections that I bought a few years ago and it turns out their roads / path sections are the same straights and curves so I can use the road pack I picked up at Newark to add some different curves. Mine are only 3cm wide so you may want to double check with them before ordering any as I do not have the bag with the catalogue number on it (and the road number TH105 does not show in a search).

    Despite being a few mm thick they have no real warping and the cream resin takes paint very well (I used Halford Grey undercoat first as you can see from the box). A couple of bits survived a drop from the table to the carpet with no issue.

    No real solution for storage yet – adding the tufts / flowers was not the best idea I had 🙂 🙂 Possibly a 9L RUB with Warbases trays to store flat or pick and pluck and store vertically…

    While on eBay (more of the 28mm GW to go up soon) I decided to order a small sample of 3D printed walls sized for 15mm from CNC Universe as I was blown away by the small ruin they did. These folk are a true ‘print to order’ as the three bits arrived on the raft 🙂 :

    Size wise I am happy as the squirrels match nicely:

    and as the orcs are bigger they should provide only a minor distraction… The biggest orc is twice the size of the poor guard above – his head comes up to the top of the spear shaft!

    Not sure if much will get done in the next month – Sue is on holiday so the dining table gets covered in jigsaw bits as its the only space large enough 🙁 With luck the small army 1 hr game will get some love on the coffee table and I may be able to get some snake rail fencing done as that requires very little table room to make / paint.

    Avatar photoJim Webster

    Your rivers look good 🙂


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