- 27/03/2018 at 16:41 #87362
Step by step guide to create a 28mm ruin
notes- idea was to inspire people as its alot easy than you think, making mistakes on a ruin is ok you can’t go wrong.
Also i have seen people who swear by foamboards who wont use anything else but that, and others who use cork sheets
i decided to use both together and create something that looks special and try to inspre others to do the
same….i will give away lots of free tips and if taken you cant go wrong.
01- black foamboard 5mm 7inch high by 12 inch long…the two strips are 7 inch high by one inch.
02-i got a cork sheet 3mm thick…i used a ruler to mark the width i never measured the gaps of each line, it was all by how
i think the brick thickness would look, this without measuring would give me slightly different size bricks, which i wanted.
03-once cut into strips, i again used a random guess on how a 28mm brick would look in length, i have never used this
way of cutting before so i was doing something completely different to how i would normanly cut pieces.
04-cut the pieces up using a standly blade, takes minutes to do, took around 20 minutes to get this pile of guesswork bricks.
05-first thing to brick up is the strips, PVA glue is used and i used a small screwdriver to position them into place, i cut some bricks
into half, you need to make sure you have gaps between each brick to allow the mortar later on.
dont be to bothered if they are slightly offset, that is the effect you want and dont be to bothered if you are left with black foam
showing at the top these can be cut off later
06-next lay the pillars and draw with a pencil where they will be placed, then draw your windows, easy way is to place the ruler down
and use it as a guide for your width,just mark it using a pencil on both edges of the ruler, then PVA glue the pillars on,then place cork
1 inch high in bwtween the pillars, i then used a piece of balsa wood on top of the cork again pva glue.Once dry i marked my windows
as 2 inch high, and drew another line 10mm above that, i shaped by cutting out into a V shape
07-I then placed bricks in a semi circle on the top of the window like so.
08-next is to create a ledge, cut the top would be a 10mm width by 5mm thick, the underneath is the same split down the middle, this
would be PVA glued together,
09-i bostick the ledge into place above the bottom arch windows, i cut out the top windows before i would lay any bricks, the top windows
are to be square making it simple, just remember you need a one layer of bricks below the top window, everything then was PVA glued
same as the pillars, split bricks in half ect….it takes time but it is well worth the effect….remember you are creating a picture that you cant
go wrong, its going to be a ruin building, mistakes are correct on ruin buildings so never be disappointed with your work, by the end you will be happy
with your work.
10-Now we know all the measurments its the same process for your sides, you can have your sides as long as you want or as small as you want, this part
is up to you, i created a door entrance with balsa wood, you could have your entrance door half missing if you want or not even a entrance, use the same
methods as laying out the bricks ect … put as many windows as you think you might need, if does not have to be the same.
11-Now to add the motar between those bricks, use interior filler, its very cheap, best way to use it is to use your finger and rub it in between the bricks
once you have done the full wall,do not wait for it to set, use a small wire brush, this you can get from most DIY shop,very cheap and very useful, first
use in a circle motion, removing all the filler off the top of the bricks, this cleans them, do not press hard, just slight pressure…once done then go horizonly
between the joints again slight pressure, this is important, then vertical on the down joints we only want a bit of filler removing….we now have your bricks
with mortar ….i used a tool, you could use anything really like a small screwdriver, to remove more filler….this does not apply in every joint, just remove some
filler in certain places to make it uneven, like the ground has been hit by shelling and bits of motar has fell out…this is important, small details are what you want
we want a ruin building and that look that stands out on your tabletop.
12-We then need to start hacking away at some of these bricks, the sides walls on the edges need to be cut with a small knife, shave some edges off the end bricks
on the wall bricks i criss crossed with a small knife to remove some of the cork from the center of the bricks, again the effect in small details is important
13-here i fixed a Dolls House cornice at the top of the brickwork, this is great for 28mm buildings, very cheap and you get enough for a number of buildings
again i cut it up abit making it damaged before i glued it into place, the brickwork onthe from i used with slash effect and removing bits from bricks,i even removed
some bricks, the edge of the pillars were cut with a knife, and the lower cork wall below the window was a small screwdriver digging away, all balsa was chipped away
to match in as a ruin.
14-Now on the broken glass and window frame….dont use normal matchsticks for the frame, you need to go onto ebay and look for craft matchsticks, they are smaller
than normal and not as thick, first glue the inside from, wait to dry, do all the windows, some of the frames i cut in half lenght, they dont have to have to be perfect
just halfway up or maybe not in the middle, as if the frame is broken…dont rush on this part…wait for it to be perfectly dry…then get some transparent sheet….hey this is
everywhere, on alot of food package like popadoms package…cut into jagged edges like i have, small pieces and bostik onto the frame, once dry place the outer frame
on top of the transparent glass…this secures it into place and it looks good.
15-glue your building together now,use pins pushed into the cork and foamboard, i use sewing pins, this keeps and holds it together…place the building onto a 3mm MDF board
draw around the building the size you want, you need the ruler to create the width around the building, this will be your pavement around the building,
16-here i got some foamboard, cut it so it will fit into my building as the top floor, i have not placed all the planking down so you can see the timber that the coffee stirers will be place
on, create this before you glue the floor into place, it dosent matter if you overlap the coffee stirrers as once dry you just cut them off with siccors.
17-here you can see the pavement on the outside of the building, i cut with a standly knife, and also created a pavement kerb, bostik the building into place, then use foamboard
this on is a inch thick, just place anywhere you want, use a gluegun to postion or even transparent silcone, other silcone does not work.i created another wall on the top floor
to create two rooms, one will be a bathroom.i also placed bits of wood laying around, giving that feel of being unsecure
18-where the walls connected i cut out larger cork to cover it, same process with filler and damage ect.
19-once the foam was dry into place, i used DAZ clay, this comes in a brown or white colour, keep wetting your fingers and position the clay around the edges of the foam and
create a few bumps on ground level….you want your rubble to be high but also want to place your miniatures in defending on ground level, so dont overdo it, use all sorts of
bits and push into the foam and clay, grab what you can,anybits of unwanted plastic throw into this building, i got the steel griders from a railway, pretty cheap i just snapped them in half.
the mesh is oven mesh cut up
20-pva glue over the rubble not eveywhere then sprinkle sharp sand first, once dry pva glue grey stone, what size is up to you, then Pva glue blobs then drop bricks onto it, the more the better.
21-remember to drop bricks around the pavement, here you have a good idea of the kerb and flagstones created, some i completely removed, its all about detail
22-Now to paint the mortar, use a soft large brush, i used a grey to get into the joints al over first, while the paint was still wet i used brown stabbing in places to create different colour in the mortar
and even better those broken windows are painted already so dont be to bothered that they got covered in this paint.
23-i got from the DIY shop a sample pot of Ruby red, i mixed on a plate with some black and lightly touched up those bricks, dont press to hard as it will go into the mortar
24-now highlight with the Ruby red
25-now mix up the ruby red with yellow, just hold the building a far distance away from you, just touch up with the colour in certain places you dont want it everywhere, holding well away from you
gives you a better picture of what you are doing, create the look you want.
26-dark grey for the other parts but you could paint it what ever colour you want, could be a dak brown and build it up lighter if you wanted to.once you built the colours up hit it with brown
and build up the dirt with a lighter colour.
27-floorboard are dak brown, touch up with a lighter colour of yellow mix with the brown…now here is the colour that is unexpected to bring those wood grains out…dry brush with white, it works
and thats the colour that will transform your wood
28-now to add your wallpaper, i have seen these in craftshops everywhere, these are great for 28m….and this idea will add that much more interest in your building…you can also get off ebay
29-use pva glue to stick the wallpaper on the wall, try7 to get it all cut up before you do…it does not have to be perfect,its a ruin remember..once dry, cut off any bits that are oversized,use a small
scrwdriver to drag down to ruin the wallpaper, use a small knife to get underneath it to pull off, use a dark brown, then lighter browns to get that dirt effect
30-Here is what is at Mollys Dolls House website…they do all sorts of 1/48th scale bits…thats 28mm scale to us gamers, we got a complete bathroom set…these are £2-25 a set…they are plastic and they
do need to be sparyed and painted
31-the rubble was painted light brown high lighted , all the bricks are the same process colours, to create rust use dark brown then lighten and touch up with orange, the pavement is highlighted grey then
dry brush with white…good tip to really bring out the flagstone and kerb, is to use a gel pen on the joints,this really springs it out, takes about 10 minutes to do, well worth it.
32-drainpipe…just a skewer with cardboard strips…i did a long length of the cardboard first, putting three pieces together, once dry i cut to size and wrapped it around with bostik…sprayed black, painted green
touch up with lighter colours, bit of dark brown in places and orange on top…bostick onto building, dont use PVA glue it wont work
final picttures..i hit it with black ink and brown ink to give it that weathered look, dont overdo it, best use a old brush cut off the edges and rub the inks in corners and around the drainpipe…you got yourself a ruin masterpiece.
More photos on the website at http://www.victorian-steel.com/
Willyoupleasehelpmefixmykeyboard?Thespacebarisbroken!27/03/2018 at 19:24 #87366MikeKeymaster28/03/2018 at 09:53 #87393cmnashParticipant
That is superb – and thank-you for the step-by-step guide – it’s brilliant!
.28/03/2018 at 10:51 #87400UsagitsukiParticipant
Excellent work. And some very useful ideas and techniques there too. Thanks for sharing.
Sengoku 'blog: https://tenkafubu608971038.wordpress.com28/03/2018 at 16:07 #87464NoelParticipant
WOW28/03/2018 at 16:22 #87465OldBen1Participant
Ubelievable. Now can you show me in 15mm?28/03/2018 at 19:43 #87474Darkest Star GamesParticipant
Now THAT is a great and in-depth guide! Some great techniques there. Thank you for posting!
"I saw this in a cartoon once, but I'm pretty sure I can do it..."28/03/2018 at 20:40 #87476willzParticipant
Excellent, wargame modelling of the highest calibre. Thank you for sharing.29/03/2018 at 07:28 #87494
all the brickwoek that is broken or crumbled, i created, thanks everybody for the feedback
Willyoupleasehelpmefixmykeyboard?Thespacebarisbroken!29/03/2018 at 12:24 #87514irishserbParticipant
Very nicely done!
Is the “interior filler” a one-step or light weight spackle for plaster/drywall repair?30/03/2018 at 07:32 #87563
It is irishserb…always go for interior, any mistakes can be rubbed down, very cheap to get, i always get the pre-made filler
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