Home Forums Terrain and Scenery Tiny Trees and Weeny Woods (3mm woodland)

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  • #100423
    AbwehrschlachtAbwehrschlacht
    Participant

    I’ve been messing about with 3mm woodland bases recently and my latest blog post is a tutorial on making tiny woods for 3mm games, have a read here:

    http://www.stormofsteelwargaming.com/2018/09/tiny-trees.html

    I hope it’s helpful for someone!

     

    http://www.stormofsteelwargaming.com

    #100432
    Jim JackamanJim Jackaman
    Participant
    #100443
    AbwehrschlachtAbwehrschlacht
    Participant

    Thank you!

    http://www.stormofsteelwargaming.com

    #100444
    ThomastonThomaston
    Participant

    Thanks for this. I tried to do this a few times but didn’t turn out too well, never occurred to me to pre-mix the foliage clumps.

    Tired is enough.

    #100450
    AbwehrschlachtAbwehrschlacht
    Participant

    Thomaston: Don’t let my blog fool you, this was a hard learning curve. I have just had another batch fail on me, I have had to go back to the start and mix in even MORE PVA glue. This time, I have used thinner PVA and not mixed in any water. The foliage looks almost white before it dries at the moment!

    http://www.stormofsteelwargaming.com

    #100451
    ThomastonThomaston
    Participant

    Does it set hard? My previous attempts the foliage stay soft and I get a lot of loose parts coming off all the time. I didn’t know PVA comes in different consistency, where did you find the thinner type?

    Tired is enough.

    #100452
    AbwehrschlachtAbwehrschlacht
    Participant

    Yes, it will be quite hard when it’s set. That’s what the PVA is used for really. I bought some PVA glue this morning from Poundland. It was thinner than the stuff I had bought before from elsewhere, but that’s cos it only cost me £1! You can thin any PVA down by adding water anyway, but for these, I would try not to add too much water.

    http://www.stormofsteelwargaming.com

    #100454
    OldBen1OldBen1
    Participant

    Looks great.  I tried to make a small forest with lichen and toothpicks.  This is a lot more convincing!

    #100455
    ThomastonThomaston
    Participant

    Another question, how did you stop the base from warping? Does it even warp at all?

    Tired is enough.

    #100458
    RhodericRhoderic
    Participant

    I like them!

    @Thomaston: If you’re shopping around for PVA glue, it might be worth pointing out in this context that some varieties are prone to heavy yellowing over time. Other PVA glues, apparently not (or so I hear). I only use the more heavy-duty water-resistant sort (the kind that’s supposed to hold up reasonably well to outdoors moisture once dry, though I have my doubts it could survive exposure to heavy rain) and it yellows like crazy. I’ve been wondering if non-yellowing varnish would be adequately strong and hard as an alternative to PVA, specifically for purposes of binding and hardening foam foliage that’s not to be painted over afterwards. However, judging by another recent thread, I’m in the minority in experiencing heavy yellowing with PVA. My guess is that the more common “craft glue” PVA (which is not water-resistant in the least after drying) is less yellowing and that that’s what most other people use in this hobby. I just find it troublesome for other reasons, namely that I can’t apply paints, washes or additional glue on top of it without “lifting” it again.

    #100459
    RhodericRhoderic
    Participant

    I tried to make a small forest with lichen and toothpicks.

    I’ve been thinking that for purposes like this, PVA-hardened lichen (if relatively finely shredded, and applied conservatively) would make a good substructure on top of which to add foam foliage. Probably not relevant, but it was just something that came to mind upon the mention of lichen.

    #100460
    AbwehrschlachtAbwehrschlacht
    Participant

    Thanks guys. Thomaston, keep asking, I’ll do my best to answer! The bases haven’t warped, but I think that is because they are reasonably small and the plasticard I used is also quite thick (2mm). As for PVA yellowing, I can’t say I’ve ever experienced it. Maybe it’s the water based stuff, rather than the waterproof stuff you mentioned, Rhoderic.

    http://www.stormofsteelwargaming.com

    #100463
    RhodericRhoderic
    Participant

    As for PVA yellowing, I can’t say I’ve ever experienced it. Maybe it’s the water based stuff, rather than the waterproof stuff you mentioned, Rhoderic.

    Just to nitpick for the sake of being an insufferable git (clearly a worthy cause ), outdoors-use PVA is also water-based, and it’s not water-proof, merely water-resistant (I can still clean it off brushes after it’s dry). I used to believe that fully waterproof PVA also existed as I had the impression my local DIY shop carried such a product, but I’ve now realised it’s just Gorilla Glue by a different name, so not PVA at all.

    • This reply was modified 1 year, 10 months ago by RhodericRhoderic.
    #100465
    ThomastonThomaston
    Participant

    Thanks for the answers, I’ve learned a few things today. Going to try my forest again with these newly acquired info see how it goes.

    Tired is enough.

    #100466
    AbwehrschlachtAbwehrschlacht
    Participant

    No problem, Thomaston, let us know how you got on!

    http://www.stormofsteelwargaming.com

    #100508
    Deleted User
    Member

    Another question, how did you stop the base from warping? Does it even warp at all?

     

     

    donald

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