Undercoating Alternative Armies Resin

[Andrew Beasley]

I’ve just received some AA resin bits (inc the free arch) and they kindly put a painting guide in the box that says use an ACRYLIC SPRAY for undercoats. The brand mentioned (Kobra) is one I have never seen locally and TBH I do not want £9 on a tin for 5 figures from Amazon.

On a side note – the resin figures (corner / arch ruins and Flower of Evil) are super sharp and no surface bubbles to fill – very nice (esp as the arch is free if shipped this month).

I may be able to get some Vallejo brush on undercoat but as I normally use a car spray for undercoat (Halfords) I wonder what folk use for the task?

[fairoaks024]

I’ve never had problems using cheap spray undercoat from Halfords on AA resin

[Mike]

I have some of their resin models. Took my regular spray undercoat just fine.

Humbrol.

[Andrew Beasley]

Thanks for that – I’ll continue with my white and see how it goes.

Vallejo have me baffled – the rack in Boyes says primer is 2002 and had a pot of 72.002 Arctic White in the slot (I have a pot – bit thick but covers well when thinned) but the web site shows 70.600 as white primer… No wonder I get baffled easily some days 🙂

 

[Mr. Average]

Do wash the parts in soapy water first, I’d say, and then air dry them. But yes, their big resin mechs are favorites of mine and I prime them with flat white Krylon spray with no problems.

[Andrew Beasley]

Mr. Average wrote:

Do wash the parts in soapy water first, I’d say, and then air dry them…

I learnt the hard way – do not leave resin in the sun too long – once ended up with bent swords and spears 🙁

Main ‘issue’ around here is finding a used toothbrush – they get liberated for pot washing and end up gritty unless I’m fast and always put them away after model use (normally damp) – a drawback of having an archaeologist in the family.

 

[Mike]

For washing, unless they use a release agent they won’t need washing as there won’t be anything on them to wash off?
I have never washed any resin models in the past and not had any issues as a result.

[Mr. Average]

You’re very often correct but I do it just to be safe. I primed a model Nutrocker from Slave2Gaming and the primer peeled off like sunburnt skin, in one big piece. As Lord Lister said, “Cleanliness in all things, even the humblest of tasks.” (Or at least that’s what Peter Sellers said, in The Wrong Box. Good motto though.)

[Andrew Beasley]

Wonder if its an old material habit that has never changed as more modern materials and methods have come up…

The old Forgeworld kits had a horrible cream / brown release agent and I’ve had a fair few models from old moulds that had bits on silicon in them (Coritani looking at you here) so its second nature to wash resin though I have stopped washing modern plastics – old Airfix kits still get a wash if I treat myself to them (have a Model T part built somewhere awaiting winter again).

TBH – if you do get release agent on you can normally tell in seconds by the poor coverage / shrinking but when the manufacturer goes to the trouble of including a note AND a sticker on the box lid I take it they know what they are doing 🙂

I’ve not washed Bones or Siocast but did the old GW ‘cr*p-cast’ but that was normally to straighten out bits (grrr hated that early stuff).

There is an interesting video on ‘painting rules’ (ignore the click bait title):

The coverage on the sprue is similar to that I’ve seen on release agent.

 

[Author]

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