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    Avatar photoMike

    Does anyone else varnish as they go?
    So I normally paint faces first, once the face is done I varnish it.
    Then say I paint the legs next, once done, I varnish the legs.
    And so on.

    Anyone else?

    Avatar photoMike Headden

    Spray varnish once the whole things is complete. Dabs of paint-on varnish if bits need to be shinier/ less shiny. That’s it for me.

    There are 100 types of people in the world, those who understand binary and those who can work from incomplete data

    Avatar photomark leslie

    The first rule of Varnish Protocol is you don’t talk about Varnish Protocol.

    I don’t usually but when painting mounted figures (15mm and up) as one piece I have been known to paint the horse and varnish it then paint the rider.

    We all have our foibles, some are more foibly than others.

    Fossilizing nicely.

    Avatar photoMartinR

    I very rarely bother with varnish these days apart from on 20mm plastics and to take the shine off decals. I just do it at the end.

    "Mistakes in the initial deployment cannot be rectified" - Helmuth von Moltke

    Avatar photowillz

    Generally varnish after all painting complete but before metal is painted.

    Never spray always use a brush.

    Avatar photoNot Connard Sage

    Quick blast of Testor’s matt, job’s a good ‘un. 🙂

    Obvious contrarian and passive aggressive old prat, who is taken far too seriously by some and not seriously enough by others.

    Avatar photoSane Max

    Because I am an oddball my Varnish Doctrine is set in stone and cannot be deviated from.

    I paint a few dozen bases. I will then apply Yacht Varnish. They then go sit on a shelf to dry for a week. As a result when I have the painting Mojo there may well be several batches waiting the second coat, of Matt varnish, and I even sometimes have to label the trays so I know who is next.

    But I no longer Varnish Plastics and I have been painting quite a lot of them recently. my last big army was entirely, 100% plastic. This would have been a spectacularly light army to transport, and would have had the advantage of not chipping each other in the case, had I not for some stupid reason based them on tuppences rather than using the huge stock of plastic 25mm round bases I already owned. Doh.

    Avatar photobobm

    I complete all painting, leave for 24 hours minimum then brush on Liquitex matt varnish.  “Metal” is not as shiny as many think…If highlighted at the painting stage pre-varnish it still looks like metal after matt varnish is applied.

    There's 10 types of people in the world. Those who understand binary and those who don't.....

    Avatar photoDarkest Star Games

    I paint, hit with gloss coat varnish, ink/wash and highlight if needed, then hit with gloss then dull coat.  Very rarely have any chips unless the figure plumets to hard flooring.

    "I saw this in a cartoon once, but I'm pretty sure I can do it..."

    Avatar photoJohn Treadaway

    I used to use Testors religiously but had some bad reactions from it after using over Army Painter Dip. I use spray now (Pebeo Matt Picture Varnish Spray) but – unless I’m using speed paint version 1 where I spray at various stages to avoid bleed) I spray at the end. Like DSG I use a gloss varnish if I’m putting down decals (usually a coat if Future floor polish) but then matt spray at the end.

    I find the varnish seems to ‘unify’; a modle’s finish and the Pebeo is very matt and does a good job.

    John Treadaway


    "They don't have to like us, snake, they just have t' make the payment schedule" Lt Cooter - Hammer's Slammers
    Avatar photoDarkest Star Games

    Like DSG I use a gloss varnish if I’m putting down decals (usually a coat if Future floor polish) but then matt spray at the end.

      Future is an absolute must for the decals, for sure!  Reminds me I need to find a new bottle as mine has yellowed in the last month, and that does make a difference.

    "I saw this in a cartoon once, but I'm pretty sure I can do it..."

    Avatar photoGeof Downton

    Always Winsor and Newton matt, spray or brush, because a remover exists, for when I discover the bit of flock or ststic grass. Usually on top of GW ‘Ardcoat, applied by brush 24+ hours following painting but before basing.

    One who puts on his armour should not boast like one who takes it off.
    Ahab, King of Israel; 1 Kings 20:11

    Avatar photoOotKust

    Same as most. End of line painting; then basing/ scenics, then matt spray all including the scenics to ‘fix’ in place.

    When is important- never in same week as painting; at low humidity conditions, preferably warm dry sunshine (yes its done outside) and figures stay out there for at least an hour or so.

    Also to avoid blotchy spray, I keep the cans in our hot water cupboard (you know linen??) so they are warmed up before the spray process. Ditto if Winter like now and 5ºC outside, figures sit on a sunny window shelf to allow spray to adhere to ‘warmer’ figures etc.


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