Where do you source bases? And what material?

[Bandit]

Forever I’ve used picture matting because it was convenient to cut as needed but now I’m exploring options.

What do you use and where do you get it?

Cheers,

The Bandit

[Mr. Average]

Plastruct 1mm styrene sheets, cut with a hobby knife and the corners eased with a metal rounder. I buy it from my local hobby shop, but it can be had online fairly cheaply.

[Mike]

Mr. Average wrote:

corners eased with a metal rounder.

What is this arcane machine you speak of?

[grizzlymc]

Rubberise magnet for 3 cav or 4 inf, then a 1mm thick steel movement tray for the Bn.

[Bandit]

grizzlymc wrote:

Rubberise magnet for 3 cav or 4 inf, then a 1mm thick steel movement tray for the Bn.

Where do you source em? Cut em yourself from sheet?

Cheers,

The Bandit

[grizzlymc]

I buy the rubberised magnet from craft shops and draw on the white side, cut with heavy dutty scissors.

 

TThe steel bases I bought years ago from a levantine jew, but any metal shop could make them up, zinc wipe them then paint with oil based paints to avoid rust.

 

If you do obscenely large scales, you could base your figs on steel and either stick magnet underneath or put it on a movement tray.

[Thaddeus Blanchette]

Simple matte board, but the. Again, I mostly play micro and pico scales, so I don’t worry so much about magnetically attaching things for storage.

We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

[kyoteblue]

For individual figures metal washers, for multi figure stands FOW bases for my DBA/M metal bases.

[Mr. Average]

This does the trick.

http://www.amazon.com/Radius-Corner-Rounder-Punch-Cutter/dp/B008CG7D1S/ref=pd_sim_201_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1Z87PE2VMHNP03QV3QF0

[Lagartija Mike]

Steel bases, regardless of scale.

[Norm S]

Previously – always artists board hand cut (form any art shop – the material used in frame mounts)

Now,

Artist board for 10mm WWII (it has a shallow step for the small figure and easy to cut to size for a variety of vehicle types)

or if I am using 12mm Kallistra, I use the plastic bases that come with the figures.

or 2mm laser cut MDF from Warbases (UK) for everything else (in particular 28mm).

[Iain Fuller]

All my bases are MDF from Warbases, for my 18mm Napoleonics I use 2mm and my 6mm Moderns have 3mm.

Apart from the great value for money and speedy service that you get from them they are happy to knock up anything that you ask – couldn’t recommend them enough.

My blog: https://tracksandthreads.wordpress.com/

[General Slade]

I always used to use 0.8mm ply bases that I bought from Litko.  Recently, to save money, I started cutting my own bases from sheets of ply I bought from an eBay supplier.  However,  it is a job I hate doing (I seem to cut myself as much as the wood) and if I could afford it I would go back to ordering from Litko.

[McLaddie]

 Plastruct 1mm styrene sheets

For 2mm through 28mm, that is what I use.  Evergreen Scale Models has Sheet Styrene [ 12″ X 6″] that is scored on one side in squares, half, quarter or one-eighth inch.  I use the 1/4″ square “Sidewalk sheeting #4516′.

It is easy to size and cut uniformly. With the scored side up, silicon spackle holds well.  It is around $3.50 per sheet, which isn’t any more expensive than the alternatives mentioned and/or easier to size and make stands.  One sheet will make 144 1″ X 1/2″  or 60 1″x 1” stands.

 

 

[MartinR]

Artists mounting board, with magnabase on the back (to attach to the steel paper in my A4 box files).

Cheers

Martin

 

 

"Mistakes in the initial deployment cannot be rectified" - Helmuth von Moltke

[Don Glewwe]

Sheet polystyrene, most commonly accessed at the local hardware or DIY store in the form of ‘for sale’ signs.

Not thick, but then I admit to being in the minority of gamers who view stands as things to keep figures upright (and as innocuous as possible) rather than handling tools to protect precious paint jobs and/or diorama-style display plinths.

Storage/transport issues solved by magnets are addressed with an embedded K&J disc.

 

 

PS – I admit to being a recent convert to clear stands for 1:1 basing.  The visual impact is, imo, preferable to a base’s distinct terrain clashing with whatever site it may be placed during a game.

• This reply was modified 6 years, 2 months ago by Don Glewwe.
• This reply was modified 6 years, 2 months ago by Don Glewwe.

https://brawlfactory.net/

[Spurious]

Post-1990 1p&2p coins. The date being important due to being reasonably magnetic from that point onwards.

Plastic slottabases where required. I’d like to try clear bases but there’s so many awkwardly balanced miniatures that need their little plinth or tab for holding up. Or it’s just a  big thing that’d be a git to remove, like the rectangles all the Empress modern Russians are attached to (or any 6mm infantry for another).

 

[McLaddie]

Whatever the material, I tend to like bases that disappear on the table, which would be matching the mat/terrain, thinness and color.

[Author]

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