Forum Replies Created
I prefer grids to hexes – and I have moved a lot of my gaming to gridded games as they make things so much easier. Also I am gaming a lot more in 54mm and smaller 54mm units can look odd on a table but, for some reason, look fine in a gridded game.
I have speeded up painting my own figures for the table as I have a lot I’d like to get done – so much more in block paint, wash and highlight style than the three layers that I used to paint.
I paint well enough that other people pay me to paint for them (occasionally) and I paint the figures for my Imperial Miniatures Toy soldier line that people seem happy with…
I’ve never considered myself a very good painter though, compared to other people…
I got that one as well – deleted immediately…
Never really understood people who gamed Northern Ireland – especially when the situation was still going on….
I use Rmadillo:
who were originally run by 2 wargamers – they are now part of the UK Packaging group. They do a good mix of easy fold boxes and PIP sizes. I get free delivery over £200 and can get bubble wrap delivered as they are local to me.
I have always used GW Neale – they are now owned by Aim Solder and service has gone a little bit but they are reasonably priced – if the new cost of metal can be called reasonable!
So we are now getting roofing spam! 🙂28/11/2016 at 15:35 in reply to: We have had first times, but what is your origin story? #53137
Saw a piece on Nationwide (the news magazine program on BBC1) in 1974 about a wargaming convention (probably Salute) and got talking to a friend about it on the walk back from school (I was 12 at the time) and went to the library that weekend and looked for books on wargaming…
Mike08/11/2016 at 15:55 in reply to: Practical question to American vendors about customs declarations #52072
It is not illegal to charge VAT to a non-EU customer. You are permitted to deduct the VAT and not charge it provide you have proof of postage to a non-EU country and keep that proof of postage for 6 years…
It is illegal to charge it and not include it in your VAT return and fail to remit it to the VAT man.
This doesn’t affect me because, like most wargames companies in the UK, I am not VAT registered as I keep my turnover under £83k and thus don’t charge VAT on top of my prices.
I play 15mm, 20mm (WW2), 28mm and 54mm on a 9′ x 5′ table (Table Tennis table) at home.
A lot of the magazines are geared towards 28mm because it tends to photograph better, the people supplying articles to promote their latest rulebooks are all 28mm manufacturers and it’s a conspiracy against us 15mm manufacturers (ok, maybe not the last one!).
Out of this month’s magazines I was very pleased to read WSS which actually seemed to cover something about MY hobby rather than the latest set of commercial rules in an advertorial….
I’ve had some good games using Kings of War and the lists that are free on the web…
Mike26/09/2016 at 11:40 in reply to: There very well is a fantasy/sci-fi gaming community #49307
Some historical gamers have been complaining about Fantasy ever since the “Fairy gamers” debate in Battle for Wargames in the late 1970s…
Same thing for “the greying of the hobby…”, etc etc
Ancients – WAB 2.0 and Neil Thomas AMW
ECW – File Leader
Marlburian – Beneath the Lily Banners
Napoleonic – Neil Thomas
FPW – Neil Thomas 19th Century
19th Century – The Portable Wargame / Funny Little Wars
WW2 – Panzermarsch / Airfix Battles
Fantasy – Kings of War
VSF – Martian Empires
Gangsters -Mad Dogs and Guns
Colonial NWF – TSATF and The Portable Wargame
probably forgotten some…
We do a character set in our Martian Empires range and all our figures are available through Scale Creep Miniatures in the USA
I know that Arthur Harman’s article has provoked/inspired a couple of comments here and there (see link and link ). I wan’t going to comment on this directly, but rather ask: has anyone done a project in the simplified style he discusses?
I have played a number of games with my Toy Soldier collection – see:
I play games with Toy Soldiers….
I don’t recall ever playing a game based on an actual battle that I organised myself. I’ve played in several with the rest of the Guildford Club but it isn’t something that I ever think of doing.
I am happy playing historical boardgames for actual battles.
These days I am tending more and more towards simpler rules, possibly on grids and using 54mm gloss painted figures – this is partly an attempt to separate my hobby from my business.
This has been raised about Warfare in the past (by Michael and others). I thought they simply offered a family ticket for £5 which means children and partners are included in the price?
I have no problem with it personally, and completely fail to see what all the fuss is about…
Whereas I sit outside in the summer with a cold drink and paint….
I’m trying to clear some projects off the painting table and paint some of my own stuff along with work-related painting. I hope to make the club 3 times a month minimum as well so get some gaming in – managed twice a month over the last few months…
Plans are to:
- finish all the outstanding DUST SSU troops (nearly done, just an emplacement and 2 squads of heavy walkers left)
- Finish painting Army Black in 54mm for Little Wars games in the garden in the Summer (3 gun crews, 12 cavalry and 24 infantry to go)
- Get the dungeon scenery painted with the airbrush I bought so I can actually use it.
I’ve got a bunch of 54mm, some Imperial Assualt (for someone else), some WW1 ships (again, for someone else).
All to be put aside in a panic as I am running our club’s Xmas game on 21st December this year which is to be Gangsters – already had 11 people say yes. I need to paint some more gangsters and get a couple more buildings painted!
Michael has answered most questions, but the number of figures you can fit into a mould depends on the pose. For a marching figure you might fit upto 16 figures in 28mm or up to 20-25 in 15mm (slightly less for 18mm).
For figures who are firing or a lot more active they will take up more space (and you need space for air channels – especially if they have thin bayonets/other pieces) so you might only fit in 12 figures for 28mm / 16-20 figures for 15mm.
Most of my fantasy production moulds (dwarves, etc) produce 3-4 sets of 4 figures (5 if hobbits), while I have 15mm hoplite moulds have produce 30+ figures each spin
And mould life for silicon moulds is about 1,000 spins, 5,000 for black rubber – though that varies a lot with how much they are used, how hot they are run and the number of undercuts.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 6 months ago by Blackhat.
I’ve done it for a couple of people (and did all Armies Army original casting before Keith bought a Tiranti Centricast machine).
I charge £50 a mould and £3 a spin plus metal cost for the casting.
Griffin are a similar price (though they charge VAT).
I only take on very small projects nowadays as I have enough of my own work to do!
I have been using Kings of War lately with 25mm GW LOTR figures and had some really good games.
They are very IGO-UGO in that you don’t do anything in the other person’s turn but are very quick to play so that doesn’t matter.
The units stay until they are routed which I also like.
Worth a look – they are free download from Mantic to try out.
Since I went to the school Napoleonic Wargames club and someone two years above me sneered at my figures because the cavalry horses had glossy tails and then the same person sneered about “Fairy Gamers” when we started to play D&D I have ignored all criticism of my figures…
My toys, my way…
I have a table tennis table now – a cheap one that doesn’t fold but has collapsible legs. This meant I could store 18 50L Really Useful boxes under it each side for scenery, etc. I had looked at other options such as a small billiard table but there was no space for storage under it.
I have now folded up one side and slid that behind a bookcase to make more space in my room as I don’t play as many games at home as I expected. I can add it to the end of the table for big games for a 10 x 4.5 foot table and have space to move around the room more.
I used to use a table made from 3 pieces of 5 x 2 MDF which rested on two cupboards. To prevent them sagging in the middle I used the metal uprights you use for fixing shelves to the wall and just fastened two of them together to get the length. Three of these supports were good enough to hold the table level..
I drop have picked up Federation Commander and a found a couple of people who as vaguely interested.
I have even been stocking the starter sets in the UK to try and raise the profile a little.
Sadly my dealings with Steve Cole at ADB have shown him to be a complete a-hole which has put me off supporting the game further….
But FC is a fun game and easier to play than SFB
I’ve got a bunch of 54mm on the painting table (some are paint masters from my new Toy Soldier company Imperial Miniatures) and a bunch of DUST Tactics SSU troops which are nearly finished.
Managed to play 2 Neil Thomas Napoleonics on hexes games recently and Spy or Die Trying using the figures that I finally managed to paint…
As Michael said, I would usually say that January and August are the quietest months with April/November/December being pretty busy.
However, this year January was extremely busy and August was also very busy – so you can never tell…
I talk about Black Hat using “we” even though it is only me… If it was good enough for Margaret Thatcher…
I’ve always enjoyed painting – I find it relaxing. Nowadays I’ve switched to painting in block shades and then using Supershader or washes over the figure to finish it – or painting Toy Soldier style with gloss varnish. That speeds up the production, but I am even painting a few figures for some otehrs at the club as well (for money, of course!).
My take has always been that wargaming is an individualistic hobby – it is what you make of it. That has always been the case otherwise the moves for standard rules that started back in the 1950s would have succeeded and we’d all be playing the same thing!
Personally, I have come to the conclusion in recent years that the glossy, pre-boxed, Warlord/WI style of gaming isn’t something I am interested in but I can see their appeal to people brought up on the GW style of game packaging rather than the library books of my youth.
I also realised that I prefer larger scale games than skirmish (though I pay a few skirmish games), a table with a decent amount of scenery on it (which is why I struggle slightly with ancient games) and simpler Featherstone/Wesencraft/Thomas style rule which let you play the game rather than the rules.
I am lucky to be a member of Guilford wargames club and the members tastes vary from DBMM style games with cardboard circles for scenery to beautiful setups on handcrafted terrain. I am lucky to have a few opponents who like the same style of game as me and we have a great time playing them.
I am going to be having a clearout of a few periods over the next month or so and I’ll be concentrating on mostly 54mm and 40mm for new periods. This is partly because I like the simple toy soldier style of painting and because by using 54mm plastics and Toy Soldiers I am evolving my hobby away from what I do for a living with Black Hat which is important to me to keep my sanity and love of the hobby….
To paint en masse you have to aim to paint a unit,not the individual figures. What looks amazing in photos on the internet can’t be seen on the tabletop while playing a game.
The photos people put up of figures on various forum are lovely, but the majority of these people are collectors and painters, NOT wargamers. They are painting skirmish forces at best not whole armies…
Quantity has a quality all of its own…
I proved to myself one weekend that I can paint, base and completely finish an 18-man WSS 15mm unit in 3 hours from start to finish…
Block paint, shade and minor highlight…
The Federation Commander damage system is much easier – you simply roll for the table number and then read across it – each table covers 10 damage.
So for 12 damage you would roll twice and simply read across 2 tables marking off systems.
I played SFB from the first boxed set with a couple of the expansions but hadn’t played it for years.
Recently I’ve got into played Federation Commander which is simple (only 8 decision points a turn instead of 32) but still retains the flavour of SFB without the brain-ache.
I have started playing with Miniatures as well – using the 2400 series of ships (I didn’t like the deep grooves on the newer 2500 series of fed ships).
- This reply was modified 6 years, 2 months ago by Blackhat.
Impetus – we could never get over the fact that there seemed to be no incentive to be the one to attack first…
Lasalle – didn’t work with columns and lines
Waterloo Rules – almost worked as a ruleset but the balance and allocation of points just didn’t gel properly.
Field of Glory – a return to units (I dislike element based games) but I just found the games deadly dull and boring to play and I gave up after half a dozen attempts. Just not my style.