[cmnash]

John,  Thanks; you’re confirming my thoughts as well as giving me some v interesting ideas – penalty for being shot at, and bonus for same target

 

MattH wrote:

For one thing the relative range will be different from one ship to another 

D’oh! that did not even occur to me, but now you’ve typed it, it’s obvious …

MattH wrote:

but also I can’t see it being practical to communicate all the data over radio in the heat of action

This is what I was thinking

MattH wrote:

I have been trying out the Fire When Ready pre-Dread rules recently. They have an interesting system of using splash markers combined with a card rectangle with the name of the firing ship and battery on it. On the first turn of firing the marker is placed so that the splash is away from the target ship and gives a -3 modifier. If you hit the card base is slid under the model, giving you a +1 next turn. If you miss the marker is placed with the splash next to the target but the card facing outward, giving you a 0 modifier. Any targets with markers from more than one firing ship get a -1 to hit mod

That does sound interesting … will have to look at that idea

MattH wrote:

Perhaps the way to make BC a little more realistic would be to have individually labelled splash markers corresponding to the firing ships?

This is what I was considering, but wanted to find out if there was collaboration that I was unaware of.

Thanks for the replies gents; much appreciated

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[cmnash]

Private Snafu wrote:

I do think the 2.5D system is better than full height walls. Easier to reach in and move figures about.

I agree. Full height walls are nice in theory, but a pain in reality

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[cmnash]

I googled “rod shaped neodymium magnets 1mm diameter 10mm length” and got a bunch of hits; top of the list was:

https://www.guysmagnets.com/neodymium-magnets-c11/1-mm-x-10-mm-neodymium-rod-p296

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[cmnash]

Private Snafu wrote:

the other used to hold thongs

This made LOL – slightly embarrassing in the office … 

It IS a great looking figure

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[cmnash]

That looks pretty good to me.  Maybe you should make the ends so that you can put two of them together to make a longer one?

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[cmnash]

Great work as always Jim!

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[cmnash]

That looks really good! How did you create the sea effect on the bases?

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[cmnash]

It doesn’t matter how you base your figures, you will re-base them before using them …

After you have spent hours searching for X, you will remember that you sold/binned X last week, after having had X for years and never used it …

 

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[cmnash]

That is brilliant news – was always a fantastic resource

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[cmnash]

Thanks for sharing that Norm – hopefully will remember to pop into WHSmiths this weekend

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[cmnash]

Wherever it is – thanks for sharing!  I really like the crashed plane – nicely done

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[cmnash]

Damn fine results Jim – very impressive piece of work there

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[cmnash]

Warbases are great, so are:

Supreme Littleness – http://www.supremelittleness.co.uk/

Charlie Foxtrot – https://www.charliefoxtrotmodels.com/

Blotz – http://blotz.co.uk/index.php

I’ve used all 4 at various times via mail order and had no problems with any of them.  I believe that Charlie Foxtrot, Blotz & Warbases are all at Colours if you wanted to see before you buy.

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[cmnash]

Tony Hughes wrote:

I tried to get some of the flag sheets at a local but they never had any stock of them. I wanted to see how strong they were.

I got mine from the online store – using the collect at store option which is free. As to strength, I don’t know how to quantify it … they seem to me like any other magnetic car sign, pretty good really IMO, obviously YMMV

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[cmnash]

Today the Works have a 25% off if you spend £10 with the code TODAY25, so you could get 10 flags for £7.50 … if you need that much magnetic sheet!

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[cmnash]

Thanks Greg

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[cmnash]

Whatever the reason was, it’s gone away – they’re now listed as £7.50 …

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[cmnash]

Where are the barricade/fence thingies from?

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[cmnash]

I’m too much in awe of your ambition Jack to be able to give any help … not that I’d be able to anyway!!

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[cmnash]

I just do a straw colour with a black wash … looks good enough to me

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[cmnash]

Hi David,  Do you know why the rules are currently priced at £9.71 marked up to £9.83 ?

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[cmnash]

Hi Alan,  While I can’t help directly, you could look at the Yarkshire Gamer blog posts on his Project Jutland:

http://yarkshiregamer.blogspot.com/search/label/1%2F2400%20WW1%20Naval

I think I’m right in saying that his project was the entire battle in 1/2400 … very inspiring, if beyond me!

This post has the first time the game was actually played:  http://yarkshiregamer.blogspot.com/2016/12/project-jutland-roll-bones.html

Huge numbers of ships on an 18′ x 7.5′ table … amazing to see

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[cmnash]

Thanks for that MattH.  You’ve pointed me towards the rules I’d prefer I think – Dahlgren & Columbiad.

When I get them, I’ll ask for the changes that you’ve made as well (hoping you’ll be kind enough to share!), but that won’t be for a while yet

Thanks again!

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[cmnash]

That looks like a lot fun – thanks for sharing!

Having tried out the rules, what are your impressions of them? do you know if they use the same basic rules as the other similar time period rules by Long Face Games?

(I’m seriously thinking of getting the White Bear Red Sun set)

PS – very brave to play in a loft in the weather we’ve been having!

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[cmnash]

Rhoderic wrote:

You won’t take my miniatures away while I sleep, will you? They’ll still be there when I wake up? I need them, you see. I have… plans.

What miniatures?  Those weren’t the miniatures anyone was looking for ….

😉

I don’t think I’ll be qualified to comment on anyone’s projected project until I finish one of my own …  It is actually possible to finish a project, isn’t it?  That’s what you find at the end of a rainbow – a way to finish a project – isn’t it?

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[cmnash]

Per, your blog posts are always of interest – I get them by email, please keep them up!

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[cmnash]

Angel Barracks wrote:

maybe save the loot for buffs? Like a healing potion that has a one off use and costs gold. Or a glass flask of yellow lotus that shatters when thrown and has an affect? Not day to day things like rope and what not, but things that are a one off dice changer?

I think that would be the best bet, personally. Not necessarily one-offs perhaps; magic weapons are a common fantasy trope, but not so much in Howard’s stories … on reflection, I think one-offs is probably best

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[cmnash]

The game balances on the edge between skirmish wargame and rpg-lite; as on the wargame vault product page:

Think of it as a sweet spot between an RPG and a tabletop skirmish game.

Introducing the list of D&D 3rd edition skills takes it too far towards an rpg, IMO.

Also, I don’t think that as a game definitely with an emphasis on ‘The Hero’, worrying about an equipment list isn’t necessary – that’s something that should be part of a scenario; if Erland is exploring a tomb, he’ll have the rope, torches, etc, that he needs, unless it’s dramatically convenient that he drops them all into a bottomless pit …

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[cmnash]

Brendan, just looking at wikipedia, I see that a Vosper private boat MTB was 21m (68 feet) long; at 1/600 that’s 3.5cm, and at 1/700 3cm, so that ‘100’ can be quite a difference for models in that size!

I would suggest that you go with either a) the that you have more of, or b) the scale that has more available to get, depending upon whether you’ve got most of what you want or not.

Another alternative (& what I would personally do) is to use both scales if they look ‘right’ together to you, just don’t get the same boat/ship in both scales!

Probably just telling you what you already know, but I thought I’d try to help!

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[cmnash]

Cool – I didn’t realise those shapes were there! Thanks Jim

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[cmnash]

Nice report Jim – how did you do the speech bubbles?

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[cmnash]

Darkest Star Games wrote:

Heck, you could even put in there a buckler that gives +1 vs melee (both defense and attack) but no bonus vs arrows.

Having done some sword & buckler fighting in medieval re-enactment, a buckler certainly should give a bonus to attack and defence.

A buckler really is a second weapon – one that’s much more easy to block with!

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[cmnash]

Angel Barracks wrote:

are the images big enough do you all reckon?

They are for me, but it wouldn’t hurt for them to be a bit bigger IMO – say 20-25% bigger

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[cmnash]

I don’t think you should reduce the critical damage, tbh – that’s a nice rule as is.

Keep shields as +2 vs missiles and make them +1 in melee – removes the condition I suggested and it’s easier to remember. Also, I don’t think that you should change something in the core rules in an expansion … it’s for expanding rules, not changing them?

You were talking about light, medium & heavy armour, but now you refer to chain?

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[cmnash]

Alexander, where did you get the bubbling pools from? they look great!

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[cmnash]

cmnash wrote:

I would suggest that a shield adds +2 if used by itself and +1 if used with other armour – after all, the armour on the left arm is covered by the shield

Actually upon reflection, that makes a shield on its own ( +2) just as protective as light armour and shield ( +1 & +1 = +2 )

So what’s the point of light armour?  I guess it gives you some protection when using a 2-handed weapon – greatsword, greataxe, bow, crossbow, etc …

And if you are introducing rules for surprise/ambush then you’d still have the armour protection, but not necessarily the shield … as you would if attacked from the rear

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[cmnash]

I would suggest that a shield adds +2 if used by itself and +1 if used with other armour – after all, the armour on the left arm is covered by the shield

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[cmnash]

Alexander Wasberg wrote:

I would tend to agree with you, the first option is easier, can be scaled easily enough and doesn’t require any additional dice rolling.

I agree

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[cmnash]

Very interesting to see what you’ve done with the various sprues – thanks for sharing it!

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[cmnash]

You’e done a fine job with them OldBen1! Any chance of a link to the maker?

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