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Brown, I never use white, or black for that matter.
That’s interesting. I’ve experimented with brown primer in the past, but I never stuck with it. Maybe it’s time to revisit it.
AB, are you priming these with white? I know that black primer is pretty popular with 15mm painters, but my own experience was that it often led to figures that I thought were too dark– especially figures that are shirtless or otherwise show a lot of bare skin.
By the way, does anyone still sell any of the old Metal Magic fantasy figures? The ones sculpted mostly by Josef Ochmann that Mega Miniatures used to produce? I have the impression that the casting rights and moulds/masters were spread to the four winds when Mega Miniatures sold them off piecemeal.
Funny you should ask. I’m working on a dungeon crawl project with vintage figures and just ordered some of Ochmann’s elves from:
Good service, fast turnaround, and the figures are very nicely cast. I would recommend them.
Most of the remainder of the Ochmann Mega Mini/Metal Magic line seems to have gone to this company:
I have not ordered from them, so I can’t comment either way.
EDIT: Whoops. Looks like someone already directed you to Midlam. I shjould have read the whole thread a little more carefully.
- This reply was modified 4 years, 4 months ago by Cosmotiger.
Palmer Eldritch is on his way there now.
- This reply was modified 4 years, 8 months ago by Cosmotiger.
Yep, you’ve hit on the issue with many lines of wargames minis. They are not really sculpted to an actual, consistent scale ratio. You can say a 20mm figure is 1/72 scale, or a 6mm figure is 1/285 scale– but they are not retaining the true proportions of a 6 foot tall man shrunk down 72 times smaller, or 285 times smaller, etc.
Your example of the “3 foot wide shoulders” is just the beginning. Most of us also don’t have pumpkin-sized heads or 12 inch long fingers, but minis are sculpted that way. Partly for durability, but also for visual impact. When you start with figures like that, applying a strict scale ratio for cars and buildings will result in the sorts of situations you show in your pictures.
I generally do paint camo on my sci-fi vehicles or at least paint them in drab earth-tone colors. It’s not necessarily because I think vegetation or terrain on alien planets will look just like Earth, but just because that’s what we expect to see when we look at a military vehicle. There’s not a question in you mind about what this model is.
If it were some sort of heraldry or other bright colors, there’s some chance that the viewer could be confused, and pulled out of the illusion: Is it a civilian vehicle? What’s the deal with the red and yellow?
- This reply was modified 5 years ago by Cosmotiger.
Lots of nice stuff in this thread. Models, buildings and terrain, everything looks good.
In the various Two Hour Wargames use a “role play lite” approach, where they designate your leader or hero figure as the “star” character (like a movie star, I guess). This figure is described as representing you, the player on the table. But they give stars a “cheating death” rule. When a star character gets a killed combat result, they can cheat death and come back in later games in the same campaign.
They explain it away by words to the effect that it turns out they were just knocked unconscious or somehow taken out of action temporarily, but not really killed after all.
My favorite is the Space Marine labeled “Brother Reeves” in this picture. I always liked the pose, one of the few Space Marines that actually appears to be aiming his weapon.12/10/2015 at 16:20 in reply to: Rebel Minis Releases 15mm Civilian Hunters Pack #3 #32535
A few years ago, I would have said that 28mm was the only scale for a decent zombie game. But now that 15mm manufacturers are putting out nice personality figures like these to go with the mass zombie hordes, my mind has really changed about that.
I would recommend “Redliners” by David Drake. A lot of action, but good characters, too. Delves into the psychological costs of war.
I’m not bothered by casualty markers with “dead” figures on them. I think something like Altius’ markers would improve the appearance of a game, compared to using tokens or dice as markers.
On the other hand, if I saw someone using markers that were extremely graphic in depicting gore, guts hanging out, severed limbs, and so on, I’d be annoyed, mainly because that seems like something someone does to try to seem shocking — some kind of socially inept bid for attention.
I guess that amounts to sanitizing the horrors of war into something genteel and not so disturbing , but that’s what we’re doing when we play a wargame anyway.
- This reply was modified 5 years, 9 months ago by Cosmotiger. Reason: Edited for misspelling
Nice work on the tank. The splinter camo looks really cool.
Thinking more about it. it’s interesting that the two examples I used were sculpted by Mark Copplestone. While his figures are generally quite detailed, its not the “tubes and buttons everywhere” approach mentioned above. He adds a lot of practical detail, like ammo pouches and packs. The same goes for other historical sculptors that produced sci-fi, like the Perry brothers.
And I thought of other examples: the VOR Neo-Soviets, and the Void Viridians:
Although in general, I think of Void as transitioning into the clean-modern-new-anime style with a lot of their figures. (Many sculpted by Kev White, I believe).
I would say there was a intermediate style between”old school-Heavy Metal” and “new style-Anime-Infinity.” For many years (for the sake of argument, let’s say early 90’s to early 2000’s), there was a lot of what I call “Space Vietnam” or “History in Space.” Much of which was influenced by the movie “Aliens.”
By Space Vietnam, I mean things like the Grenadier Future Wars troopers and the GW Catachan Jungle fighters, and original Cadians ( all based on the the Aliens/Vietnam style, I think). Jumping off from that, there were other historical or modern troops re-castas sci-fi. There was a ton of that in the 90’s. All the GW Imperial guard of the 90’s and the original Warzone figures are examples of other historical types re-cast as SF. It’s not exactly either of the styles discussed above:
I’m with AB, if the point is to be unobtrusive, I personally don’t think clear bases are any less noticeable than a simple, well painted “normal” base. You can still see a clear disk just as well as a brown or grey earth textured base.20/10/2014 at 16:18 in reply to: Starting a range 15mm sci-fi models FB is welcome! #10948
That’s a very creative design for a four legged alien. I’ve seen some minis that are basically sci-fi centaurs, but you’ve gotten away from that template.
Are there Rebel packs available, too?
Very nice painting!
To be honest, zombies have little appeal to me in games. I’m just tired of them.
But I like most other flavors of PA: Planet of the Apes, Thundarr/Gamma World, Mad Max, or straight human gangs with minimal weirdness.
Nice, looks utilitarian, but still has a little bit of a sci-fi appearance.
Thanks for the link. Some really interesting and crazy stuff there. You can really see the John Blanche influence.
Mud and cack is good, I agree. Where I’m not so sure is taking chipping and weathering effects that look good on a 28mm Space Marine, and porting them directly to a 6mm mech.
What it finally comes down to is experimenting with some models and finding a technique that I like and that I think looks right. (Or at least as “realistic” as a 60 foot tall robot gets) .
Starship Troopers by Heinlein (and the Roughnecks TV series loosely based on the book and movie)
Mobile Suit Gundam
I don’t really play the HALO videogames, but the design and overall look is an influence