[Alan Hamilton]

but what’s a Calvary?

A Calvary is a sculpture, painting or model of the crucifiction.  They are often found by the side of roads or in towns and villages.   There are many styles – crosses, crosses with a “roof”, stone/brick shrines etc

[Alan Hamilton]

If you can get the book at a reasonable price do so.  It has a lot of information over a wide range of Indian Army units and also the states and presidencies.  As is usual with Mollo’s work it is very well researched and superbly illustrated.  It is wide ranging though so the coverage of each period is short.  That said it is a book that is well worth getting for the illustrations alone.

When I did my research quite a few years ago these general books were useful for the Indian Mutiny Period.

COLLIER, RICHARD; THE INDIAN MUTINY; FONTANA, 1966 (EXCELLENT BIBLIOGRAPHY – NO INDEX)
EDWARDES, MICHAEL; BATTLES OF THE INDIAN MUTINY, PAN, 1963
EDWARDES, MICHAEL; RAJ: THE STORY OF BRITISH INDIA, PAN,
KNIGHT, IAN; QUEEN VICTORIA’S ENEMIES 3 INDIA; OSPREY MENTAL ARMS NO 219, 1990
WILKINSON – LATHAM, CHRISTOPHER; THE INDIAN MUTINY; OSPREY MEN AT ARMS NO 67; 19
FORBES-MITCHELL, WILLIAM; THE RELIEF OF LUCKNOW; LONDON; 1962
KAYE M.M (ED); THE GOLDEN CALM; WEBB AND BOWER; 1980 (BACKGROUND INFO AND PICTURES)
LLEWELLYN ALEXANDER; THE SIEGE OF DELHI; MACDONALD AND JAMES; 1977
STUART VIVIAN; BATTLE FOR LUCKNOW; ROBERT HALS; 1975 (GOOD FICTION)
PEMBLE JOHN (ED); MISS FANE IN INDIA; HEADLINE; 1988 (BACKGROUND INFO)
FORRESTER; SIEGE OF KRISHNAPUR; (USEFUL FICTION)
CARMAN WY; INDIAN ARMY UNIFORMS – CAVALRY; LONDON; 1961
CARMAN WY;  INDIAN ARMY UNIFORMS – INFANTRY; LONDON; 1968
MACMUNN SIR GEORGE; THE MARTIAL RACES OF INDIA; LONDON; 1932
MACMUNN SIR GEORGE; THE INDIAN MUTINY IN PERSPECTIVE; LONDON; 1931

[Alan Hamilton]

Paskal wrote:

Hello everyone, Please, Where find a list of the regimental facing colors of the infantry and cavalry units of the Bengal, Bombay and Madras armies between 1845 and 1857? Thank you

On my website http://www.morvalearth.co.uk/Indian%20Mutiny/Indian_Mut_Bkgrd2.htm

Lots more on the Indian Mutiny http://www.morvalearth.co.uk/Indian%20Mutiny/Indian_mutiny_index.htm

 

[Alan Hamilton]

Back when I was a boy there were no fantasy figures!  It was notuntil Minifigs, Citadel and Asgard (maybe couple of others) made or imported fantasy figures for Lord of the Rings and Dragon magazine promoted D&D that fantasy really arrived. Until then historicals got fantasy treatment – 25mm Normans got black faces to be orcs (Goblins were 20mm figures). later medievals became Gondor, various Huns and Late Romans became Rohirrim etc.

And no.  No blood on the swords.

[Alan Hamilton]

Gone Fishing wrote:

Do you remember who makes the figure of Aetees himself? Seeing these makes me want to watch some Harryhausen…

He is from Warlord Games – Achaemenip Persian King’s Chariot.  The nice people there sold me the crew separately.

Warlord – Persian King’s Chariot

[Alan Hamilton]

The main enemy force is that of Aetees, King of Colchis and his forces. I looked at the Foundry figures but I really wanted a more diverse force than was on otther there. I have no idea what the historical inhabitants of Colchis looked like and so looked for figures that would look a bit like those in the classic film. First I looked in my Lead Mountain and then I looked online and settled of Warlord Games range of Achaemenid Persians backed by some Black Tree Design figures.

Here, from left to right are some of the main characters for our games:

King Aetees, Priestess of Hecate, Medusa (one of many guises I have), Medea as High Priestess of Hecate, two of the king’s servants.

The Green Regiment – Based on the warriors in the Film.

The Blue Regiment

The Archers led by a Ral Partha amazon now re-roled as one of the Princesses

the Hydra (one of two that I have)

Children of the Hydra

[Alan Hamilton]

Excellent work and, by coincidence, I have just finished excactly those figures for my satyrs.  Once varnished and based I’ll post them on my Argonauts thread.

I am going to follow this with interest.

[Alan Hamilton]

Geoff, thanks.  We use 1/76 models sometimes 1/72.  I saw your models when I did a search and was interested.  I went to the website and was not sure what size the models were as I could not see a mention of size or scale on the pages I looked at though the price did indicate smaller than 1/76.

[Alan Hamilton]

The RSO is made from a very brittle dark brown resin.  Every time I pick it up a bit breaks off as you can see on the far side of the model where a bit of the fold down side is missing. It is inside the load deck.  It has spent more time awaiting repair than any other model I have and you can see several joints.

A bit like the real thing I suppose.  So to answer your question – I have no idea who made it though it is reasonably detailed.

[Alan Hamilton]

Darkest Star Games wrote:

the RSO seems to me to be too obvious. Maybe see if you can turn the RSO into some sort of AAA unit? That’d be different. I also really dig the mortar 8-rad, nice!

Thanks for the kind words.  The mortar carrier just seemed obvious though I considered a 12cm first.  However, I think the recoil might have been too much for the chassis.  I think you are right about the Sheman/Pak-40 and RSO being too obvious.  There is most of an Airfix T-34 in the box and another leFH-18 so I might cobble up an SP gun there too.

[Alan Hamilton]

Rules sent by email with event cards and quick reference sheets.

Have fun

[Alan Hamilton]

Moneybox wrote:

Another fun game, I recognise the figures. If you want more, Warlord make a set of plastic male zombies which are very well made. Sometimes they have a sprue sale, and if you sub to their newsletter they tell you when there are offers.

There are Wargames Factory/Warlord male & female zombies (Project Z) in there as well as some Mantic and Zombicide ones.  The survivors come from Hasslefree (bought when I could afford them), Wargames factory/Warlord (Project Z), Heroclix, Foundry and many others that fit.

I bought some half price sprues last year and I’m going to convert some into bodies for scenic and plot items.

[Alan Hamilton]

The rules are fast and simple – If you want a set pm me your email that accepts attachments.  They are originally Akula’s Rules – Skirmish Edition with modisications that we have made to suit our needs.

Hand to hand

IF SURVIVOR WINS, remove a zombie for every additional pip on the dice that the survivor wins by.

Eg zombies result is a 3, survivor rolls a 5 = remove up to 2 zombies that are in base to base contact with the winner.

IF ZOMBIES WIN, the survivor rolls 1d6

+1 to dice if survivor wearing armour

1,2 “BRAAAIIINNNSSS” – you are zombie food – remove figure

3,4 “Bitten” – Place an injury marker

5,6 Survivor unharmed (his clothing took the damage)

 

Results of shooting against Zombie

5,6 “Headshot” – remove the zombie from the table (except Tank Zombies – see below)

3,4 “Knock-back” – zombie can’t move/attack until next round (ie after deck is shuffled) Place “Knock-back” marker by it.

1,2 “Grrrrhhh” – no significant damage….

SPECIAL RULE: Tank Zombies – Treat Headshot results as a wound, place wound marker (-1 move/& -1 fighting). Tanks ignore “Knock-backs” remove figure when 3rd wound inflicted.

 

[Alan Hamilton]

Moneybox wrote:

Lots of fun, good to see an British themed game, we know it all started in the US. (only joking) Where did you buy the vans and trucks?

All our zombie games, so far, are British themed.  That is why there is a lack of civilians with assault rifles, machine guns and flamethrowers.  Keeps the grandchildren thinking tactics not firepower.

The cars and trucks come from a variety of sources:

The glossy red and dark blue ones are plastic toys bought 2 years ago from Poundland (not seen them since).  The “bashed” cars Silver & light blue) and the pickups are from Mantic’s “Walking Dead Scenery Booster Pack” (the only pack from that series I have bought).  Scenery Set

The “Rescue Car” is a cheap diecast that came with a trailer and speedboat.

Thanks for the comments

 

[Alan Hamilton]

OldBen1 wrote:

Cool stuff, many of these minis look pretty old.

They are and so am I!  I have had them in my lead mountain for years.

[Alan Hamilton]

Rod Robertson wrote:

Very nice. Now it’s off to Colchis with you to get that coveted fleece! Cheers. Rod Robertson

King Aetees, his soldiers, Medea, some civilians and priestesses are undercoated.

[Alan Hamilton]

Gone Fishing wrote:

They look very nice. Do you have some mythological beasties to go up against them?

Yes, the first are in the “RAF 100 – Greek Mythology” post.  There are more on the way.

[Alan Hamilton]

How about:

The Principality of Piquelle

The Republic of Remoulade

The Triumvirate of Teriyaqui

The Sultanate of Zalza

The Caliphate of Chootni

[Alan Hamilton]

I like the terrain items and the emphasis on fun.  Very much like our own games.  Well done and looking forward to see how this progresses.

[Alan Hamilton]

Excellent, Henry.  Grand figures and a game in the old style that inspired me all those years ago when I got my copy of Charge! Or how to play wargames.

[Alan Hamilton]

I like 20mm for much the same reasons.  Virtually all my modern stuff is that size also my old eyes find 15mm too small to paint – it is hard enough with 20mm!

Thanks for the input.

[Alan Hamilton]

I assume that you play AK-47.   Would I need to change the base size for the bigger figures and if I do would it change anything else in the rules?

 

20mm are 25% bigger so do I need to increase everything by 25%?  Though for the trial games I’ll not change anything.

[Alan Hamilton]

kyoteblue wrote:

Or you could use metal bases and sheet magnets as the sabot/movement tray.

Certainly could.  Though I’ll give it a try with blue-tack first.

[Alan Hamilton]

kyoteblue wrote:

Have you thought about using single based troops on sabot bases ??? I did that with Sword and the Flame, years ago.

I know what a sabot is and after an internet search I discover that a “Sabot base” is a version of the age old “movement tray” .  I had considered using figures blue-tacked to card bases because I have used that method for medieval and ancient armies regularly and when I started out doing Napoleonics in the 70s we all used sticky back floor tiles as bases to move lines of troops.

What spoils these for me is the look.  For packed masses of troops or lines of close order troops they are fine.  But for forces using flexible tactics and dispersed deployments I just think the look is wrong.  OK for advancing over open ground, looks odd in towns or defending linear objects.  To me at least.

I suppose I could use blue-tack on card bases for movement and remove the figures for those in field defences, built up areas, buildings, etc.

I think I’ll give it a try.

[Alan Hamilton]

Thanks for the response.  I have read the rules over again and can see how to do most of the game but the rules on deploying infantry bases will take a lot of policing without set bases.  I use 20mm figures so I can see “groups” of 3 or 4 figures being used but what making sure that the “2 up” formations specified work?  Do you suggest just splitting the force into fairly flexible “groups” rather than fixed bases?

 

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