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I’m going on a trip so the rest will probably get continued after I get back. There are brief work in progress photos near the bottom of page 1.
Any advice for sculpting monsters? I’ll be doing beastmen, goblins and giant killer birds eventually.
I shamelessly copied the soldiers from this.
Daym, forget agrarian, those picts are advanced civilization if they use fiber optic for roof.
The new roof is really nice, what’s it made of?
I also like the old roof, looks like mud, more primitive and less agrarian.
Soldiers, the two on the left are too small. Might also add beard to all of them to make them more intimidating.
My bad, I thought they were 28mm. These are even more impressive at 15mm.
Out of curiosity and because it seems to be popular recently. Are you planning on any resin version?
Really liking the vegetable.
“The less clothes they wear, they easier they will be to sculpt!?”
Not really, especially muscled figures, realistic muscle groups in different pose are pretty tough to get right. Some clothes are more difficult, fur and chain mail etc.
I’m not familiar with Pendraken minis aside form their Vietnam range. I like the aesthetic of the GW sculpts, too bad they’re OOP, especially the marauders, orcs and forest goblins.
How does Copplestone minis compare to GW Warmaster?
I’m duplicating my 3mm set so I’ll be doing goblins, beastmen, Chocobo, stoneback crabs and maybe a few more (pigs, cows). Not improving as much as I had hoped, there’s only two groups left, soldiers and characters before I get to creatures.
I like the charging guy, second from the right, if only for the hair.
Canada is too cold for me or sculpting.
Mercenaries and bandits. 2 sculpts taller than the others again but I’m willing to use them as big men.
Cool, I think the only negative I see is the base overlapping the miniature to the bottom right. How about put him on a layer over the base? Also blending/blur background of the minis to the book background.
It’ll be a while before these get painted, need warm weather to spray coat the miniatures.
I think the Lion is the hero in these paintings, note the man laying by it’s feet.
My sculpts height includes the base and would be scrawny compared to 10mm miniatures. The fix was pretty quick, less than an hour I think. I left out 4 of the shorter sculpts they’re only half a mm taller than these. The only one I felt a little bad about the fix was the woodcutter, he was well proportioned originally.
I didn’t see that logo, didn’t even see the man standing there, was too distracted by the person to his right.
I thought Canadians were supposed to be peaceful?
No, no, no, they’re polite.
That’s pretty bad, I didn’t think he’d see you as a real competitor. Like you said different market and very little chance of mistaking one product for another.
I’ll remove them from the base, take 1-2mm off their legs/skirt, re-base and re-sculpt their feet. Easier for the women than the men, having the sprue underneath should help some.
Learning experience is painful.
They’re all 8-9mm including base except for the sack carrier he’s 10mm.
I screw up. They’re all taller than my painted minis, the miniature I used to scale these with was too tall (probably why I gave up on it).
The details are not all the impressive, pretty tame compared to commercially available miniatures. I’m hoping by the time I get to characters and beasts I’ll be at commercial standard.
Civilians done, must quicker than I expected. 5-6 bandits/mercenaries next.
Th trees are 100% 3D printed, I modeled some fern like leaves so I can use them for jungle games too.
Easiest columns are dowels at a DIY store or Amazon. Buy a pack, mount some, chop some up, instant ruins.
What I like about FIMO is it’s pretty forgiving to beginners. You don’t have to sculpt it, carving out terrain is sometimes easier and you can rework it for years until you’re happy with it. The only down side I’ve experience is it needs a good spray of undercoat otherwise acrylic paint feels sticky to the touch.
I figure I’ll probably need to make 6 more houses, about twice the size of the current ones.
- This reply was modified 2 years, 1 month ago by Thomaston.
These are nice, I like the style for the miniatures especially the faces.
Tools – I use 2 tools rubber tip scuplting tool (trianglular shaped) for most things. The other tool is only used for fine details, made using a free disposable chopstick, used x-acto blade and a pin (regular sculpting tool works fine I only made this to work on 3mm).
Hole punch some plastic for the base, packaging plastic is good enough.
I hold the sprues in place using the putty, if I have left over putty I might sculpt shoes on as well. Also kind of important to sculpt in the height and what would be the neck of the mini. Putty hold together much better if they’re still sticky otherwise there’s a weak point between old and new putty. The other miniature is used to scale the sculpts, it’s an unfinished sculpt I gave up on.
Deciding on pose and building up the miniatures. I work from the legs up (reason why some miniatures are over scaled) so that there’s a stiff foundation when I work on the face and other details. I’ll also add the arms and neck at this stage so it’ll cure with the torso for more durable miniatures.
These took maybe 2-3 days, mostly waiting for putty to cure. The sample miniature took closer to a week to get to the condition seen.
Probably 2 more steps left, faces, beard and other details and finally hair.
This is cool, I like that with all his uniform and medals he’s still wearing sandals.
New look for towns. I think the largest buildings could work but the square one where most of the figures are might be too small. The tree is definitely too small.
Solving the tree problem. Giving them height using spacers, non spaced trees could be bushes. I like the shadow they’re casting.
I love to cheat.
I’ll do a step by step next group.
Yep work in stages and build up as I go along.
For armature I use 2 methods, the more dynamic pose like the painted female fighter in the first pose I used wire armature. It takes a bit of bulking up and can be a pain nudging putty around the wire.
The method I’m currently playing around with is using left over plastic sprue, cut/glue to get the basic pose and carve out any excess. Putty sticks much easier to this and takes a day or two off the sculpting time. Most of the greens were sculpted using this method.
The drunk guy was different, I experimented with putty armature but it was too flexible and cured with a slight tilt so I made him drunk.
Scale creep taking effect. The guy carrying the sack is 10mm tall.
Wanted them to be generic but the woodcutter looks more like a character and the drunk isn’t going to be usable in most games.
Cobbled road is interesting and might be what I need to make towns look more like towns instead of big villages.
The tough part is to make the terrain blend into the board and fit size wise and not look awkward. My solution for tough problems that worked well so far is – CHEAT.
Going to try sculpt some cobbled road sections as a proof of concept. They’ll be similar to jigsaws so they can be placed inline for convincing road or further apart for more worn down ruins. IT could come out looking like a pile of rubble.
Here’s the result. There’s some warping but not much. Shot and wide seems to work best, long and thin looks weird.
15mm, 6mm and 3mm for scale. Painting these the same color as your board would probably make them blend in very well.
- This reply was modified 2 years, 2 months ago by Thomaston.
A weird entry for Iranian AH-1 with 4x AGM-65 per hardpoint? Is this for gameplay reason? Those are pretty big missiles.
Cool, I’ve been waiting for this.
I actually didn’t put doors and windows on most of the houses. From the angle I look at them they’re irrelevant, and only the larger houses has doors/windows. It’ll be different for 6mm.
Does your friend know about Soda Pop miniatures? Chibi has to be the easiest thing to sculpt, also a great way to start sculpting. Peaks & Plains was actually 3mm so chibi was the only realistic option.
These were V.3 trees using FIMO and sand, before I decided to use 3D printing. A pain to make and has some weight to them.
Unpainted huts I made before I decided to go with 6mm. They’re basically cubic shapes with a lump of FIMO on top with texture put on. The 3mm project was intended for this tobacco tin, as a travel set.
Interesting, you don’t see miniature pigs everyday. Also like the aesthetic of the orc and dwarves.
What’s the rules like?
Your fantasy village showed me larger scale on the same size board wasn’t too cramped. I also wanted more details in the figures for characters and market scenes.
6mm wouldn’t really fit in a matchbox but the 3mm stuff from my last campaign fit in a metal DVD tin.
- This reply was modified 2 years, 2 months ago by Thomaston.
They look elemental.
I suggest thinning down the light colors, you might need to paint the same raised part 4-7 times but it’ll be worth it.
@Mike and Dark Star Game (name sounds very familiar)
I’m not planning to sell any of these, my branch of miniature fetish is too weird for the general public (killer Chocobo).
It’s more of a passion project.
It’s good practice to do these little RPG projects. I figure I’d get a lot more from learning to sculpt one off miniatures I need for RPG than the alternative.
You should give it a try.
Yep, I did the fighter and her friends about a year ago when I first got the idea of getting into solo RPG.
A note on height, the female figures including the fighter is about 8mm tall including the base. The blacksmith is 9mm tall, I made his head a little too big.
I’m doing these for my own use, really have no idea how to get them cast etc.
But, who knows if I need money maybe I will.