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I had never heard of them before and was actually expecting some sort of tank trap when I clicked on the link. It’s a lovely bit of modelling and painting. Great stuff.
I’ll second Guy’s thoughts. I hope you find a new home for your site soon. It is a wonderful resource.
My cracked and taped and pencil-translated Funckens still grace my shelf, although I haven’t opened them for ages (nor the Eltings for that matter). — Funny you should mention the white hackles of the fusiliers, G. S. I don’t pay much attention to British uniforms, but I stumbled upon that exception, and spent a little bit of time trying to run it down on the internet. I found post-period official acknowledgement, but I could not find an authoritative source confirming the practice during the era. I worry that it’s one of those things “everybody knows” and no one can say why. JG
I got the information from this thread on TMP (which I was taking part in under the screen name SJDonovan – embarrassingly I note that I spelt fusilier wrong). I don’t know the guy who posts as ‘dibble’ but he seems to know his stuff when it comes to British uniforms of the period and he does give a non-internet source for his information. Though of course there is always the possibility that the authors of the book got their information from the internet in the first place.
They are very nice figures and you have done a very impressive paint job. And it’s nice to see some 28mm figures that aren’t suffering from big hands syndrome.
I like the book, it’s nicely laid out and illustrated and I have found it very useful. I don’t have it in front of me right now but my memory is that whilst it is very good on general things it is not always so good on the idiosyncrasies of individual regiments (as far as I recall it won’t, for example, tell you that all companies of fusilier regiments wore white hackles or that the 5th Northumberland regiment did likewise). Also, Mr Franklin’s prose isn’t always easy to read but on the plus side there isn’t much of it – the book is mainly pictures.
I could be wrong about this, but I think there was a problem with the first print run and some of the colours came out other than was intended. In my version officers’ coats are scarlet while those of the rank and file are brick red (as in the plates posted by willz above).
Victrix do German tank numbers in 1/144. I don’t know whether they will look way too big on 10mm vehicles.
Thanks Andrew. That’s really useful. I still use hex paper to draw dungeons and that is the most user-friendly site for creating it that I have seen. Now I just need to find myself an A3 printer.
For anyone who is interested, I got the definitive answer from Dave Brown on the General de Brigade forum:
It’s 1 : 2 or 3 for 15mm or 20mm.
However some 6mm players have gone for 1 : 1. So, each section base in an infantry platoon has about 8 or so figures. While a tank or gun section is made up of two models.
I was very impressed with that. Your narration in particular is excellent. This is the first one of your videos I have watched but I will definitely be checking out more. Great stuff.
Can’t comment on the rules, but for the period, North Africa.
I am tempted to do North Africa – mainly because I like Matilda IIs and I really like the British camouflage scheme (the one in pale blue, sand and brown). I’m also tempted to do it because I don’t have to worry about buying a lot of terrain.
I like the look of O Group, and I like Dave Brown’s General de Brigade rules (I haven’t actually played them but it’s a nice book!) but the vehicle ratio for O Group is 1 to 2 or 3, which is a non-starter for me.
Hammer of Democracy looks interesting but as far as I can see it is only available as a pdf and while I don’t mind buying a pdf to check something out I want to be able to get hold of a hard copy if I am actually going to play it.
You could try Nordic Weasel’s Hammer of Democracy (also on wargame vault), but it does require that you track shock for units. I play a related set for WW1 (Trench Hammer) in 10mm based 3 or 4 to a base with 2 bases per squad and now use little explosion markers to track shock / hits. You can see my examples here: http://jozistinman.blogspot.com/search/label/Trench%20Hammer Let us know how you get on, I may give Iron Cross a try
I will give them a look. You do have to track morale in Iron Cross as well so I am already resigned to doing that.
Don’t hold your breath on me doing a review of Iron Cross. I’ve got to buy, paint and organise some armies (and terrain) first. And I haven’t even decided whether to do North Africa or Normandy yet.
On first reading the rules sound like fun but of course you can’t really tell until you have played a few games.
@NTM I’ve just bought a pdf of the Iron Cross rules. They look like they fit the bill of what I’m looking for and the fact that they are only a fiver is definitely an added bonus.
That’s definitely an excellent reason to use as set of rules.
I’m not sure it’s an excellent reason to use them but it certainly simplified the decision regarding whether or not to buy them.
I’ve just bought a pdf of the Iron Cross rules. They look like they fit the bill of what I’m looking for and the fact that they are only a fiver is definitely an added bonus.
I will check out your recommendations. I’ve been reading lots of reviews online but haven’t yet found something that seems to fit the bill.
I’m basically a horse and musket gamer and don’t know a great deal about WWII gaming. I’ve been playing Chain of Command with a group of friends and have really enjoyed it but it feels very much an infantry game. I don’t want to make infantry irrelevant but I would like to get a few more tanks and guns on the table.
I guess what I am looking for is something the next level up from Chain of Command. Something where a rifle section or Bren team is represented by a stand rather than a bunch of individual figures and where I can get a few more tanks and guns on the table. I thought O Group was going to be ideal but it turns out one model represents two or three tanks and for some reason I have a real problem with that.
Stream wider than a road?
Thanks Guy. Sounds like this isn’t the ruleset for me.
I’m planning to use 12mm figures so I don’t know whether adding the extra vehicles would work – I think the table might get a bit crowded.
I found something from Dave Brown written prior to publication in which he said that the ratio for vehicles and guns was 1:1 but I get the feeling this changed somewhere along the line. I’ve posted the same question on the General de Brigade / O Group forum so hopefully someone there will be able to give me a definitive answer.
I like the look of these rules and I’m thinking of buying the complete bundle that is on offer on the TFL website (O Group). However, I’m having trouble finding the figure ratio for vehicles and guns. In some places it says one model represents one vehicle and in others it says one model represents two or three vehicles.
I’m asking because when I am doing WWII gaming I only like playing at a 1:1 ratio. For some reason I can’t get my head round the idea of one model tank representing two real ones.
I have had many nights out that ended in Cardiff’s Chip Alley. And I have no desire to replicate them in miniature on the wargames table. So it’s Brigade of Guards for me.
Nice neat lines. Parade uniforms. All the same manufacturer. All the same pose.
And plain bases. No flocking. I hate, loathe and despise flocking.
Minifigs do 15mm Texas Longhorn cattle that might fit the bill. As usual with the Minifigs website the pictures don’t do the figures justice (but they have at least managed to take a photograph of the correct figure, which isn’t always the case). The horns are cast separately and need to be attached:
They are available here: Minifigs Wild West15/01/2021 at 18:09 in reply to: Do I Really want to Pay More For Wargames Figures? #149554
I never understood why people even considered buying Peter Laing. There was a time when they did periods that weren’t available elsewhere. But you could only ever tell what they were meant to be by reading the label on the packaging.
I bought them because I wanted to try 15mm figures and the adverts in Military Modelling cunningly didn’t include any pictures. Boy was that a waste of pocket money.
I haven’t bought any of them but there is a photo of painted examples on the home page of the Museum Miniatures website and the actual figures look a lot less chunky than the 3D rendering.
Don’t the authors have a faq or something?
Almost – at least as far as movement is concerned – page 175 and following. No need to sign up to Facesemaphore…
Yes, it turns out I should have read the rules properly because it is all made clear in the explanation to plate 4. @Blackhat got it right.
Not the first time I have failed to understand a ruleset because I didn’t actually bother to read it.
But you cannot have an opinion on the average value of a die roll, or on whether the French army was beaten at Waterloo. YMMV.
You want to try saying that on a certain other website. I think you will find that the French army wasn’t beaten. It retired in good order and Napoleon would have led them to victory if it hadn’t been for incompetents like Grouchy and Ney. And anyway the British cheated by paying other people to fight their battles for them. And it shouldn’t be called Waterloo – it should be called the Battle of La Belle Alliance, which Blucher suggested. But then he was pregnant by an elephant at the time so what does he know?
And any wargamer will tell you that averages are irrelevant because the dice are always against you.
Or something like that.
I would assume it means you can move 3 square if moving forwards but only 2 square is moving sidewise or backwards Mike
I just saw your reply. I think your reading makes sense. It solves the problem, which had been puzzling me, of how Light Infantry move if they have got an obstacle in front of them. I was half-convinced that the first part of their move always had to be forward and so they could end up stuck on a riverbank.
You are probably right – though to me the words “any other direction” seems to imply that the second part of the move cannot be in the same direction as the first part of the move.
Oh well, it is reassuring to know that even if I had been around at the birth of wargaming I still wouldn’t have understood what the rule writers were trying to say.
I love the look of the game. I can really imagine a marquetry game board based on the design in the rulebook. I’m not sure I understand the rules though. The first line left me scratching my head:
“Light Infantry moves one, two, or three squares, at the discretion of the player, directly forward, right or left obliquely, and one or two squares in any other direction”
Does that mean they can move five squares in total but only three can be forward or obliquely (which I assume means diagonally in a forward direction?) and the other two have to be sideways or backwards?
@Piyan Glupak – I’m glad the books are going to be useful. It sounds like I will have to get them myself. I’ve got a bunch of Ottomans sitting in a shoe box and I really should get them out and get on with painting them.
What’s wrong with “Our Moccasins Trickled Blood”
I will do it here, over the next few days..
Excellent. I shall look forward to it. It will fuel my daydreams about commissioning my own range of figures (which will look exactly like 2nd gen Minifigs).
Alas the article had a word limit so I could not have covered that. Here however….
I would love to read about it here. But you could also pitch it as a follow up article for Miniature Wargames. That way you get a penny for your thoughts (and I might even buy the magazine – which I must confess is something I have never done).
I have just been invited to write a short piece on wargaming and my take on it for Miniature Wargames magazine. Thing is, does anyone really care what this particular middle aged white man thinks about the hobby?
I’m very late to the party on this one so you may well have already written the article but I for one would be very interested in what you have to say. For one thing you have done something that I have always wanted to do but almost certainly never will do: you have commissioned your own range of wargaming figures. I would love to know how you went about this – how you found sculptors, what the design process was, how much it cost, what the pitfalls were. It is a side of the business I know next to nothing about and I would be fascinated to read an article by someone who has first-hand experience.
I could be wrong, but weren’t both the Italian Levy and the Calabrian Free Corps light infantry so all companies would have had green plumes? They are included in the Osprey Wellington’s Peninsula Regiments (2) – The Light Infantry by Mike Chappell where they are both shown with green plumes and the description says: “The clothing, equipment and weapons of these two skirmishers are all from British sources and but for their blue jackets they might be mistaken for British Light Infantry. ” It then goes on to recommend the Osprey Émigré & Foreign Troops in British Service (2): 1803-15 for more detailed information.
In Mike Chappell’s illustrations (which you can find online if you Google the title of the book) the jacket colour is shown as being the same for both regiments. It’s dark blue rather than bluey-green.
My pleasure Piyan. Let me know what you think of them. I may have to buy them myself (I have found from past experience that Santa tends to ignore my Christmas book list and brings me scarves and socks instead).
I haven’t read this (it’s on the Christmas list I sent to Santa) but it looks pretty good: The Napoleonic Ottoman Army
By the same author there is also a Napoleonic Ottoman wargaming guide
If you buy both of these together you can get them at a discount: Napoleonic Ottoman Bundle
Caliver also sells a book of scenarios for battles involving Ottomans. It is designed for General de Brigade but I imagine it is easily adaptable to other rule sets: Against the Ottomans
I can’t help thinking that a shovel under the wheels or a sharp stick to puncture the wheels would solve his problem.
That and a new tailor.26/08/2020 at 08:50 in reply to: Does anyone recognise these 15mm Crimean War figures? #142927
I have checked out the Rank & File figures but they look quite different from the ones being sold on eBay. Rank & File Crimean War
However, the Rank and File figure that Tony S linked to does look similar so maybe they remodeled the range at some point?25/08/2020 at 18:51 in reply to: Does anyone recognise these 15mm Crimean War figures? #142894
Thanks OB. I’ve been through the current Freikorps ranges and haven’t managed to find any matches for the figures. I like them because they have got a gangly, old school charm about them. I’m not sure I actually like them enough to buy them but I am tempted.25/08/2020 at 12:39 in reply to: Does anyone recognise these 15mm Crimean War figures? #142884
Thanks bobm. If it is any help here are some cavalry and artillery figures (which I assume are by the same manufacturer but may not be!)