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Viewing 23 posts - 241 through 263 (of 263 total)
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  • in reply to: Mass Battle Rules #36230
    Avatar photoFredd Bloggs
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    I am going for ‘To the Strongest’ while it is not a fantasy game (yet, Simon was/is a huge Runequest fan and plans are afoot) it is a good ancients game and is fast and furious to play.

    in reply to: We might be bad but we're not that bad #23068
    Avatar photoFredd Bloggs
    Participant

    One Piece, you missed out One Piece!

    in reply to: 6mm Sword-and-Planet? #22629
    Avatar photoFredd Bloggs
    Participant

    Hmmm nice idea, we at  http://www.rapierminiatures.co.uk do some classical fantasy in 6mm that you might be able to use in the setting as well.

    in reply to: War in North Africa WW II #21092
    Avatar photoFredd Bloggs
    Participant

    The Auks Alamein line was holding nicely, to say it was only fuel that stopped Rommel is patently wrong, what stopped him was the extra days the Free French at Bir Hacheim had bought him so that the defence lines were properly in place rather than rushed into.

     

    Secondly, Monty didn’t replace Auchinleck, Gott did, Monty only got the job after Gotts death in a plane crash.

    in reply to: Let's talk about perspective based wargames #21059
    Avatar photoFredd Bloggs
    Participant

    John, do you know you look a lot like Fredd? 

     

    Do you mind, it took me ages to come up with an anonymous graphic like that to show as me!

    Avatar photoFredd Bloggs
    Participant

    6mm Ancients are a joy, a pleasure, a wondrous thing, everyone should do it.

    Admittedly I have an interest in this as I am part of Rapier Miniatures and their excellent range of 6mm Ancients which match Baccus perfectly in size.

     

    Ruleswise I will be using ‘To the Strongest’ when I get around to actually doing some armies, probably on double Impetus bases like the ones Mike Solway does. (he of the 6mm Painting clinic at various Northern and Midland Shows.)

     

    If you really want to see what 6mm can do, and you can get to Sheffield come to the Joy of Six Show on the 19th of July.

     

    http://www.thejoyof6.co.uk/

    in reply to: Let's talk about perspective based wargames #20686
    Avatar photoFredd Bloggs
    Participant

    Actually, pretty much all the Too Fat Lardies games fall into this category as they are written from the point of view that you the player are in a certain role, and the game then revolves around the friction of making it all happen.

    in reply to: 6mm Credit Card Terrain #20665
    Avatar photoFredd Bloggs
    Participant

    If you like the rounded edges etc, you can buy blank credit cards (no not that kind) just a piece of plastic with corners curved. Printers use them for business cards etc.

    in reply to: WSS resources #20664
    Avatar photoFredd Bloggs
    Participant

    Sadly I have finally been dragged into the period for wargaming, Curse you Nic @ Eureka!

    in reply to: HELP REQUEST: Desert Wargame Board #20596
    Avatar photoFredd Bloggs
    Participant

    I use a premixed tetrion filler, that I then water down until it is a cream like consistency, then squirt in bond pva (used for sealing walls etc), mix add in paint, thin a little more as needed and then paint it on sloppily, also useful is an artists trowel or a butter knife for smoothing and texturing. If there are any cracks I just daub some more of the mix on. If you make it up in a tub/jar with a good sealing lid it will keep for a week or more once mixed.

     

    in reply to: HELP REQUEST: Desert Wargame Board #20579
    Avatar photoFredd Bloggs
    Participant

    If… If I was building a desert board as you describe, I would start with a coating of thin plaster and PVA mix brushed over it, this just kills the flatness, add into the ‘gloop’ some light sand/beige artists acrylic (you can buy cheap tubes of it) so it is then painted on and you have a rough coloured surface, then I would grit it but only on some areas. Use a paint splatter type design and then have ungritted board between them. One of the advantages of this look is the ungritted bits look like paths and dry watercourses etc with any additional work. To delinate a road I would find a larger piece of grit or small stones and just place them to mark the left edge of the road, spaced out so they don’t become a continuous wall, so they act like marker posts.

     

    Material wise it needs to be quite firm to prevent warping etc. I would look at Angel Barracks thread here on using pre-made artists canvas’s.

    in reply to: Making a cheap and easy gaming surface #20183
    Avatar photoFredd Bloggs
    Participant

    It looks like tarmac, excellent.

    in reply to: WSS resources #20157
    Avatar photoFredd Bloggs
    Participant

    I would add Richard Holmes biography of Marlborough to the list. An excellent read and very good for the wider implications of the events, not just the man himself.

     

    Faulkners books on Marlboroughs battles are decent retelling but subject to serious hero worship.

     

    Catalonia stands alone (find it on the web) is also good on the later stages in Spain.

     

    Now if I could just find a good resource on Eugene in Italy.

    in reply to: Making a cheap and easy gaming surface #20112
    Avatar photoFredd Bloggs
    Participant

    If you have one close, ‘the works’ can be cheaper than Hobbycraft. You may also be able to sand the lumps down, and if that is all still an issue, try a paint retarder and give it a flat coat before the grit coat as some of the drying speed will be down to the canvas absorbency.

    in reply to: Making a cheap and easy gaming surface #20067
    Avatar photoFredd Bloggs
    Participant

    I have thought of doing this as well, my plan was to mount 2 canvas back to back (with support) and do a desert scheme on one side and an urban on the other.

    in reply to: My adventures in building buildings #19963
    Avatar photoFredd Bloggs
    Participant

    Love the corners idea, I am going to steal it! But with refinements, you can also get corner edging like that in various sizes in wood as well and I would be tempted to fit some into the internal corners as extra bracing for each floor. And a further point to consider, work out the lifting points for each floor and reinforce that point, you would be amazed how fast such things can wear.

     

    Otherwise, love it!

    in reply to: Return to Middle Earth….? #19961
    Avatar photoFredd Bloggs
    Participant

    The other advantage of Ostrogoths as Rohan is it frees Anglo-Saxons etc to be the ‘other’ humans, so Anduin woodmen etc.

    in reply to: Return to Middle Earth….? #19906
    Avatar photoFredd Bloggs
    Participant

    It is not that I want different races per se, more a way to easily tell Mordor orcs from Moria orcs from Gundabad Orcs from Grey Mountains orcs. Perhaps different shield shapes or something similar is really my answer.

    in reply to: Return to Middle Earth….? #19689
    Avatar photoFredd Bloggs
    Participant

    Hmmm Pictish/Caledones/Scotti, that is an excellent idea for Dunlendings, I had not thought of them.

     

    For Easterlings something like Pechenegs and early Hussites who used wains and wagons themselves seems to fit the descriptions.

     

    One of the biggest issues I have found is how to have 3 or 4 factions of Goblins/orcs that vary by more than just a paintjob.

    in reply to: Return to Middle Earth….? #19168
    Avatar photoFredd Bloggs
    Participant

    For Rohan, look at OstroGoths rather than straight up Normans or Saxons. Gondor has a Byzantine feel to its descriptions. Then use Saxon/Vikings or Late Imperial Romans for the various rural Gondor fiefdoms that contributed troops.

     

    the copplestone 10mms are excellent as are the Historical 10mms from Pendraken.

    in reply to: Help me, I have a madness about me. #12651
    Avatar photoFredd Bloggs
    Participant

    Interior hanger bay of a ship/base could be good, think the ice hangers on Hoth from Empire.

    Cities are easy, hell I built Troy in 6 Months….

    Fitting in with your Junkers etc, perhaps a mine working section with all the industrial bits?

    in reply to: HACME Construction #12576
    Avatar photoFredd Bloggs
    Participant

    Cardboard, artboard and signmakers 2mm and 6mm foamboard for the walls etc (not the same as artists foamboard).

    in reply to: 6mm fantasy that can be based individually? #5706
    Avatar photoFredd Bloggs
    Participant

    http://www.rapierminiatures.co.uk fantasy 6mms are generally cast individually.

    Mostly classical Greek subjects at the moment.

Viewing 23 posts - 241 through 263 (of 263 total)