Forum Replies Created
I am going for ‘To the Strongest’ while it is not a fantasy game (yet, Simon was/is a huge Runequest fan and plans are afoot) it is a good ancients game and is fast and furious to play.
One Piece, you missed out One Piece!
Hmmm nice idea, we at http://www.rapierminiatures.co.uk do some classical fantasy in 6mm that you might be able to use in the setting as well.
The Auks Alamein line was holding nicely, to say it was only fuel that stopped Rommel is patently wrong, what stopped him was the extra days the Free French at Bir Hacheim had bought him so that the defence lines were properly in place rather than rushed into.
Secondly, Monty didn’t replace Auchinleck, Gott did, Monty only got the job after Gotts death in a plane crash.
John, do you know you look a lot like Fredd?
Do you mind, it took me ages to come up with an anonymous graphic like that to show as me!28/03/2015 at 16:47 in reply to: 6mm Ancients – Do You Do It, and If So, How Do You Do It? #20755
6mm Ancients are a joy, a pleasure, a wondrous thing, everyone should do it.
Admittedly I have an interest in this as I am part of Rapier Miniatures and their excellent range of 6mm Ancients which match Baccus perfectly in size.
Ruleswise I will be using ‘To the Strongest’ when I get around to actually doing some armies, probably on double Impetus bases like the ones Mike Solway does. (he of the 6mm Painting clinic at various Northern and Midland Shows.)
If you really want to see what 6mm can do, and you can get to Sheffield come to the Joy of Six Show on the 19th of July.
Actually, pretty much all the Too Fat Lardies games fall into this category as they are written from the point of view that you the player are in a certain role, and the game then revolves around the friction of making it all happen.
If you like the rounded edges etc, you can buy blank credit cards (no not that kind) just a piece of plastic with corners curved. Printers use them for business cards etc.
Sadly I have finally been dragged into the period for wargaming, Curse you Nic @ Eureka!
I use a premixed tetrion filler, that I then water down until it is a cream like consistency, then squirt in bond pva (used for sealing walls etc), mix add in paint, thin a little more as needed and then paint it on sloppily, also useful is an artists trowel or a butter knife for smoothing and texturing. If there are any cracks I just daub some more of the mix on. If you make it up in a tub/jar with a good sealing lid it will keep for a week or more once mixed.
If… If I was building a desert board as you describe, I would start with a coating of thin plaster and PVA mix brushed over it, this just kills the flatness, add into the ‘gloop’ some light sand/beige artists acrylic (you can buy cheap tubes of it) so it is then painted on and you have a rough coloured surface, then I would grit it but only on some areas. Use a paint splatter type design and then have ungritted board between them. One of the advantages of this look is the ungritted bits look like paths and dry watercourses etc with any additional work. To delinate a road I would find a larger piece of grit or small stones and just place them to mark the left edge of the road, spaced out so they don’t become a continuous wall, so they act like marker posts.
Material wise it needs to be quite firm to prevent warping etc. I would look at Angel Barracks thread here on using pre-made artists canvas’s.
It looks like tarmac, excellent.
I would add Richard Holmes biography of Marlborough to the list. An excellent read and very good for the wider implications of the events, not just the man himself.
Faulkners books on Marlboroughs battles are decent retelling but subject to serious hero worship.
Catalonia stands alone (find it on the web) is also good on the later stages in Spain.
Now if I could just find a good resource on Eugene in Italy.
If you have one close, ‘the works’ can be cheaper than Hobbycraft. You may also be able to sand the lumps down, and if that is all still an issue, try a paint retarder and give it a flat coat before the grit coat as some of the drying speed will be down to the canvas absorbency.
I have thought of doing this as well, my plan was to mount 2 canvas back to back (with support) and do a desert scheme on one side and an urban on the other.
Love the corners idea, I am going to steal it! But with refinements, you can also get corner edging like that in various sizes in wood as well and I would be tempted to fit some into the internal corners as extra bracing for each floor. And a further point to consider, work out the lifting points for each floor and reinforce that point, you would be amazed how fast such things can wear.
Otherwise, love it!
The other advantage of Ostrogoths as Rohan is it frees Anglo-Saxons etc to be the ‘other’ humans, so Anduin woodmen etc.
It is not that I want different races per se, more a way to easily tell Mordor orcs from Moria orcs from Gundabad Orcs from Grey Mountains orcs. Perhaps different shield shapes or something similar is really my answer.
Hmmm Pictish/Caledones/Scotti, that is an excellent idea for Dunlendings, I had not thought of them.
For Easterlings something like Pechenegs and early Hussites who used wains and wagons themselves seems to fit the descriptions.
One of the biggest issues I have found is how to have 3 or 4 factions of Goblins/orcs that vary by more than just a paintjob.
For Rohan, look at OstroGoths rather than straight up Normans or Saxons. Gondor has a Byzantine feel to its descriptions. Then use Saxon/Vikings or Late Imperial Romans for the various rural Gondor fiefdoms that contributed troops.
the copplestone 10mms are excellent as are the Historical 10mms from Pendraken.
Interior hanger bay of a ship/base could be good, think the ice hangers on Hoth from Empire.
Cities are easy, hell I built Troy in 6 Months….
Fitting in with your Junkers etc, perhaps a mine working section with all the industrial bits?
Cardboard, artboard and signmakers 2mm and 6mm foamboard for the walls etc (not the same as artists foamboard).