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I saw something on TMP about a month ago where someone also said similar and then a few more chimed in saying they also got screwed.
I hope things get better for you.
Just get a length of green fabric from the fabric store, use either masking or painter’s tape for roads and rivers. Put book(s) underneath for hills and while at the fabric store buy green felt for the woods and grey felt for towns. Cut the green felt into irregular shapes for woods and the grey into squares or rectangles to signify built up areas. That is enough to start.
Then over time maybe make up foam into irregular shapes for hills and paint to match the cloth or put underneath as with the books. Lots of sources for buildings, I like;
Just buy a few at a time so they get painted before buying more. Add lichen to the green felt (just jumble on top, don’t glue). You can also buy brown felt and cut into long strips for roads and brown or tan corduroy cut into shapes for areas of crops. There I would glue lichen around the perimeter to represent wind breaks. Also get a few cans of grey and tan rattle spray and just spray irregular patches on the base cloth to break it up.
So there is a quick and dirty start point and a few ideas to make it more attractive after getting going.
My understanding is this is no longer a yard (or boot) sale comparison. Just dealers, even if masquerading as small time sellers. Ebay has purposely pushed them out with increasingly higher fees. I also see the guy with the ridiculous prices on old stuff. He must get a sucker every now and again or else he too would just be pissing his money away.
As an example of making due I am using the Scotia Japanese trikes for the Italian ones in the desert. Also some of the loads of German motorcycles for Italian, although the two up use which would mean two figures on each bike is missing. Also some(?) Italian sidecars were on the opposite side (unless the photos are reversed).
You might ask Masters of Military if it something that they could make. I asked about the 1950s vintage German Borgward B2000, and a month later, he offered it. Lovely models too.
Well no joy on that one. They say Italian vehicles don’t sell so no interest in selling any.
irishserb, thanks for the suggestion. I will give it a try.
Sent them a PM(?) so will let you know what I hear.
Similar but those big wheels on the AS37 really stand out to me.
My recollection is that the H&R IT16 is a sort of tiny tracked ‘bulldozer’ -looking affair, the following: https://it.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fiat-OCI_708_CM so not what you need !
Man is that ugly, but dieselpunky.
I always thought the AS 37 looked a bit like a Humber Pig: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Humber_Pig I wonder if you could do a conversion with a bit of filing/sanding down ? No advice on the Ford station wagons, sorry – if they exist, might be more of a Shapeways thing ?
Not the armoured but the truck style.
I realize I want trucks (or station wagons) when I can buy cars, and cars when all that I can find is trucks. How stupidly fickle. But isn’t that what being a gamer is all about?
Thank you very much Steelonsand.
The Polish Fiat is not an exact match but should be good enough.
Two I would like to find are the AS.37 truck. The TL.37 is made by both GHQ and H&R but (the GHQ one at least) is the car body not the tuck body. Anybody know what the H&R IT16 FIAT artillery tractor looks like?
The other is the Ford station wagons (referred to as trucks) the Sonderkommando von Almaszy used. Again Scotia has US sedans US0017 Chevy Saloon cars which are close but not wagons.
Yes we can modify or scratch up but I am inherently a lazy bugger. Any help would be appreciated.
I was also looking for the same and no joy. Even shapeways had nothing in our scale.
Another idea for depressions. Remember this is coming from someone thinking of gaming the Western Desert so the ideas may or may not work in other environments.
So I like Jim’s idea of using areas of grey felt to define depressed areas below ground level. I also mentioned adding ridge lines in the form of string on a thin base. Not to represent hills but just the slight rises and since they are represented by strings then if the line of sight/fire crosses the string the object behind gets some level of cover (based on your rules or scenario specific conditions). Then either one side or both could also generate an area of depression. Now forces in the depression would function as hull down or hard (but exposed if firing) cover. Finally to help define the depression, which may be from one area only, if say one side has a very gentle slope so as not to provide cover/LOS benefit then mark (with an arrow) the direction(s) from which cover or LOS benefit is gained.
My additional thought is in a larger area of depression mark an irregular circle either in the centre or offset. This is a slightly deeper area of the depression which provides complete cover. For armour I am thinking tank down, where the entire vehicle is out of sight. For infantry, guns etc. similar results. But for armour (or say a unit with a hard bodied truck) a tank commander could either be unbuttoned or even standing on the turret in order to see. My thinking in game terms is such a unit would always have to activate first and cannot make an attack that game turn thereby reflecting the fact the gunner didn’t have any target’s in sight and the commander’s precarious position would also force them to lose the ability to react to other unit’s actions. Thoughts?
One problem for the old school was the sheer weight of some of their sand tables Don’t have it upstairs
No problemo. It will be in the basement tout suite.
or go all out old school and have a sand table!
Too messy and subject to interpretations. A grey felt patch with or without arrows for direction of effect sounds a whole lot more sensible to me.
My thinking <snip> also dead ground might only be dead ground in some directions. So at the start of the game you might roll at random and mark the direction from which the dead ground can be seen into
Yes! Often good having many minds thinking on the same issue. Thank you.
I really like your thinking on the dead ground. I like western desert in 6mm and that is one thing I keep wondering on how to model. You read a lot in memoirs etc. about slight rises, crests and the like which provide cover for a bit behind them. But how to model them in game terms and on the table? Sounds like a good idea, have crests (string on a base painted to match the sand), or possibly slight rises but to represent the dead ground behind or a low area. For crests or rises you may have to show the dead ground on BOTH sides.31/05/2022 at 01:12 in reply to: Creating a forum to replace a Facebook group. Is it possible? #173841
I think what he is looking for is how far away does a man have to appear 6mm high?
Still looking for advice on which 6mm FB group. Or join BOTH?
AFV=Armoured Fighting Vehicle. Any armoured vehicle, such as tanks, APCs, armoured cars, etc..
Well still stuck with youtube but I see two 6mm wargame groups. One is 6mm wargaming and terrain and the other is 6mm miniatures and wargaming. They both have similar numbers of members and posts so not being a member of either which are you suggesting?
I do not know abut those specifically but legionsIVhire makes a number of multipart ruined buildings which look similar. There was a guy on youtube who did 6mm Stalingrad boards. I think it was about 26 episodes. Those look familiar and may have been used there. If so he may lead you to the source.
Thank you for the video link. I will look that over. I haven’t revisited the rules since my first post so bear with me. I think what had me most confused or uncertain is are the tiles the odd shape (sort of stretched sideways T) or just square? Alternatively is the “zones” to have terrain added the T shaped areas and only one to three(?) terrain areas added to any zone? That is what has me confused. Thank you in advance.
Look up deep cut studio. I have a couple I bought from meeplemart in Toronto. Their stock is hit or miss but you could order from the manufacturer. You can also get different materials, including fabric.
I have a green sheet I made decades ago. I suggest getting some rattle can paints and just making patches, lines or crescents of colour to break up the sameness. Dark brown, red primer, black or dark grey, khaki and even some blue or green would work. I have a very large drop cloth I picked up to actually use as a drop cloth. Can be cut in two to make a couple sheets big enough for my 5′ x 9′ ping pong table.
So I posted my 6mm infantry basing question to the 6mm IO Groups looking for input. Just has to be approved. Looking forward to replies.
Good catch hammurabi. i am a member of that io group and it could use a little more life. Good place to go and start your thinkings…
Reading the above posts reminds me of more.
I was at a con and a guy used sand to make “dirt” roads. At the end of the session he just vacuumed up the sand, put it in a jar for the next time and folded up his sheet. Then you can lay out roads to suit the scenario. Maybe paint/tint the sand black for paved roads? I think after he removed the sheet he vacuumed again to get the remaining sand. He used a self contained vacuum as sold for cars.
I think you were in Montreal? There should be a street which has almost all the fabric stores in a few blocks. That is what is in Hamilton. Very wide selection in 3 blocks of street!
I also had felt cut for roads and rivers back in the day. I made them too short (the idea was arrange the road to not be straight). I would suggest at least 6″ long sections of both. And/or make them both wavy or with bends. You don’t want long straight sight lines (or maybe you do). Cut any fabric with the roller type of OLFA cutters. Straight knives pull and tear. Use a cutting mat underneath. Or use scissors.
I also have a couple of the printed terrain sheets. Both are just printed on cloth not mouse pad or vinyl. I only got them as they looked cool. They are smaller (4′ x 6′) and work better for smaller games. I was going to mark one with 2″ hexes. Glad I am holding off for now and see how the 3″ hexes work.
I also have a few sheets for game “boards”. I have some printed ones and a couple I made up back in the day. The biggest is about 6 ft x 9 ft. I have no idea what the fabric is but it is very stretchy so would do OK with hills underneath. However in my case I like the hills on top so I can see the contour lines. I also marked it with 2″ hexes (iron on ones from RAFM). Note that unless you have very small bases for micro armour infantry (1/2″ square) the 2″ hexes are too small when you have any terrain (specifically any buildings) in the same hex. I have lots of 3″ hexes so will be getting some more fabric and marking with the 3″ hexes.
All I did was buy some suitable green fabric then sprayed irregular patches of various rattle can paint to break up the oneness. Then ironed on the hexes. I want to game African imaginations and almost all the pictures I am seeing of sub Saharan locales show a very red brown earth so that is the colour I will be looking for. For terrain I mostly use lichen but bought a bunch of different coloured felt to make fields and woods/undergrowth zones. I also bought a couple different chunks of corduroy. Both brown, just different spacing. I will leave some as is for plowed fields and dry brush the rest with greens, tans, yellows etc. for fields of crops.
Still looking if anyone is able and willing to work through my questions.
Happy anniversary and thank you for giving us this forum and all your hard work.
Use HO model railroad item.
Looks interesting but you lose me about halfway through the second page. Do you have a post somewhere which does a sample game step by step or maybe a video? Thank you.
I am not signed on the twit. Could you just give us the web site as this looks very interesting. Thank you.
Bit late to say this, given you have two sets of rules already, but Blitzkreig Commander IV from Pendraken Miniatures (www.pendraken.co.uk) is quite good for solo play as units need to be activated by a modified dice roll in order to move or fire. They have the advantage of being playable at a couple of levels, with a stand of infantry representing a platoon or a company or, at a pinch, a squad. Perhaps a bit late for you stug, though others in the same position may want to consider them.
How well do they model 1 base=1 squad? This is the scale I work in and am still searching myself. Also are they primarily infantry or armour based? And how well do they model the other? As an example(s) ASL is insanely detailed for both. My old set Tractics did armour very well but infantry was definitely a poor after thought. I like Conflict of Heroes for infantry but armour uses the same system and loses some by comparison.
How is the rules selection coming along?
Seems like we may have a difference of opinions on what constitutes a “show”. I am from Canada and have attended lots of conventions in both Canada and the US in the past (since Origins ’78) until the early ’90s and again since about 2015.
All the conventions I attended were games first and traders second. I have never attended what you may call a “show” which sounds to me like a trade show open to the public where the only games are put on by the people selling their wares as a “hook”. If this is the case I can see making the people putting on the games pay as they seem to be just ways to make more sales. Then treat the tables as replacing the same area of stands.
If this is a gaming event with sellers as a side line then charging to put on a game would follow similar rules. If this is a seller wanting to be next to their stand then I see it similar to the above. If a bunch of guys running a closed game with no or a couple “outsiders” allowed then similar. If just guys putting on games for the enjoyment of others then at most ask them to pay the same costs as participants.
The rub would be determining what category to lump the “offender” into. It would almost be an after convention determination. Ask sellers to pony up extra $$ up front and get some or all back depending. Ask all guys running events to pay for attendance first then either get a refund or free admission next year. If all the spaces at the table are filled through open registration then getting “closed” tables should be unlikely. If approached by an event runner to run a closed table then they should be willing to pay for it.
As an aside a guy up here runs an entire (very small, say one to two dozen participants) convention yearly just so he and his buddies can play a once a year monster game. He rents a legion hall and opens it to all comers. His group, and despite being HIS game it is open to all who want to jump in, take up about 1/3 of the hall and we usually get another dozen games in through the day over three or four additional tables. He also feeds everyone. I offered to bring in pizza one year and was told this is his way of giving to the gaming community.
But the worst is if some parent drops of his kid at your table. I’ve nothing against kids at shows, but I’m not there to babysit either. I want to enjoy the show as well
Tempting to say game turns are too long – short games = high turnover of kids and time for breaks. Some shopping areas (and stores) have specific areas for kids to be entertained while ‘the adults’ do adult things. Wonder if any show would consider paying for a couple of games or caretaker specifically for this?
Cangames does just this. In the middle of the main event space is a roped off area with about a dozen games just for kids. The gamers running the games looked like teens to me so not too far off the target ages. This way the young players could still participate, at their age level, and the parents could keep an eye on them. Seemed like a wonderful win win for everyone.
I go to conventions mainly for two (three?) purposes.
One try something I am interested in buying or getting into. Primarily a set of rules/game and secondarily a period.
Two to meet up with old friends (we are pretty spread out here in Canada) or find others nearby with similar interests. Included with this is “the vibe”.
Hot Lead was the first con in 3 years and scratched, primarily, the second itch well. As it was a little downsized the selection of different (as opposed to new only) rules or games was down a bit. Plus I have managed to play a wider variety of “new to me” titles before and to a lesser extent solo games during the lockdown.