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  • in reply to: Great Blue vs. Big Red #89184
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    Does this look familiar to anyone?

    A little something something I’ve had going on the side to go with all this.  It’s formatted for 4’x6′ vinyl or cloth print, with 3/4″ counters.

    in reply to: Great Blue vs. Big Red #88727
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    Work has been such a whirlwind lately that this one has kind of stood on end, but hopefully I can relax a little today – God knows I need it!

    I wanted to mention that the project has made me take another look at Blitzkrieg (both 1965, 1975, Module System and BlitzWorld) and I may want to roll this thing out as well, if only for the sake of nostalgia. Compared to some games I’ve played it’s very straightforward and simple. Not without its flaws I’m sure but still, has a ton going for it.

    in reply to: Rommel… Now in 3mm!! #88726
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    I’m super thrilled with the quality of your work! Really superb! And the base labels also read nice and sharp – personally I’d leave them as they are but I see what Thaddeus is getting at.

    These really show up the visual aspect of 3mm scale in a lovely way!

    Incidentally, I, too, recommend priming in white. I primed a bunch in grey some time ago and the result is that lighter colors require much more work to build up. Flat White primer is the way to go at this scale.

    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    That is pretty slick terrain there man. I’ve been meaning to try Gaslands, or at least to get Car Wars of some flavor going again, in 6mm scale. The Microworld wastelanders are really well done, and you’ve painted yours up beautifully!

    in reply to: True ground scale by figure scale? #88179
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    In 3mm scale, 1″ equals 50′-0″. That one I know off the top of my head. But that chart above is quite useful!

    in reply to: Businesses that are rude? #87957
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    Yeah I’m all for competition but we can all be cool about it. It makes me not want to deal with people when they act negative or dismissive because it establishes a pattern of negative behavior among their peers, which I always fear will spill over to customers.

    I recall someone posting about Horizon Wars and another designer posting something to the tune of “I’m unimpressed. Look at MY game instead!” Which was a huge turnoff.

    in reply to: Great Blue vs. Big Red #86868
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    Reformist forces.

     

    in reply to: Great Blue vs. Big Red #86692
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    In the five minutes left to me between work and unconsciousness, I whipped up this:

    The “Hardline Faction,” the Zaftran People’s Democratic Republic (ZPDR):

    The “Reform Faction,” the Federal Republic of Zaftra (FRZ):

    And a selection of Hardliner vehicles and infantry from the Zaftran People’s Army.  The bases need to be painted still.

    in reply to: Great Blue vs. Big Red #86645
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    Somehow I feel like I’d do a Command and Conquer game at 6mm scale. The unit density of the game feels more right at that size. Now having said that, I’d also have to choose Original or C&C3 as my go-to. The former would probably use Moderns from GHQ and the latter would use Plasmablast figures, if they ever resurface.

    In any event, I think Red vs. Blue here is going to be a straight up Big Power Breakup scenario with both sides using the same equipment and organizations to start. The setting I keep coming back to is the country of Zaftra, a formerly totalitarian country which is cracking up as its Council of Ministers slowly turns into a geriatric ward and liberals creep into the government. Red represents the Hardline faction, probably led by parts of the Army, Intelligence and National Security Police, while Blue are the Reformists, with the Marines, Air Force and other reform-minded parts of the Army. Initial scenarios would be meeting engagements as army units pick sides.

    in reply to: Great Blue vs. Big Red #86613
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    Hah! Funny you say that, I’ve considered that very thing! For the original C&C though – Somewhere I have a pile of model Tiberium crystals I made as an experiment!

    in reply to: Great Blue vs. Big Red #86591
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    I’ve seen your work and I dig it! I may well use the NWG generator for some flavor, as a matter of fact – I’m not sure if I’m going to characterize this as two post-Sphere of Influence “Eastern” states during it out or some kind of big power breakup. The former might again stray too close to “Yay, Commies, Yay Capitalism” and be distracting, the latter might be easier to swallow up as “Hard Liners” versus “Reformists” in a more generic but still engaging way.

    <p style=”text-align: left;”>That’s a great idea – the break-up of a larger state. If the reformers are backed by a rival power, that would help explain the differing equipment Please keep us updated on your progress – I for one will be following it avidly!

    </p>
    <p style=”text-align: left;”>That was my thought as well – they can start with the same stuff and then diverge as the game gets more sophisticated, if interest takes hold.</p>

    in reply to: Great Blue vs. Big Red #86589
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    I agree – your colour schemes are both appealing and striking! I created my own imagi-nations for an early cold war 3mm conflict, although I’ve yet to get around to actually playing any games. I’ve got a blog dedicated to it here: Wars of Turkmenistania (feel free to lift anything for your own use!) I used Nordic Weasel Games’ Not Just a Brush War, which was helpful & thought provoking, although it may be too detailed, depending upon how much effort you want to put into your made-up powers

    I’ve seen your work and I dig it! I may well use the NWG generator for some flavor, as a matter of fact – I’m not sure if I’m going to characterize this as two post-Sphere of Influence “Eastern” states during it out or some kind of big power breakup. The former might again stray too close to “Yay, Commies, Yay Capitalism” and be distracting, the latter might be easier to swallow up as “Hard Liners” versus “Reformists” in a more generic but still engaging way.

    I am surprised that I really find your colour schemes appealing. Very nicely done!

    No more so than I! Cartoony paint jobs like these usually read as “sci fi” to me, which is fine, but typically a turn-off to my friends at the club, outside some narrow exceptions (40K and Battletech being the only ones coming immediately to mind). But these feel about right and in a narrow context I hope they’ll serve my purposes.

    in reply to: Great Blue vs. Big Red #86557
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    You’re too kind, I’m sure!

    And @DS: I’ve even been thinking of going the whole distance and using the “Retro Sci Fi” vehicles from O8 as my units but that would be one step too far from reality for the club I fear.

    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    Yeah I’m coming back to the Sons of Horace myself. Who says they can’t be aqua blue in my world?

    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    Finally had a break in the humidity after about six weeks and have assembled and primed the entirety of a Vanguard 3mm scale Army Deal.  It provides enough tanks and infantry to lavishly outfit two full forces of Marines, and although the infantry basing, being somewhat more complex, will have to take its time, the tanks are definitely underway.  Though I teeter on the edge of doing a Blood Angels army (simply because, way back in the Beforetime, it was an article in White Dwarf about an Epic BA army that first turned me on to Epic), I feel like plowing forward with either the Imperial Fists, or the Reasonable Marines (with camouflage, seen elsewhere on the forum here). Hard to say.  Maybe I’ll do both.  Or all three.  After all 3mm scale is pretty darn cheap.

    in reply to: BSR Games (Mecha, Supertanks, Etc.) #85520
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    It’s too big, I’m almost certain. Maybe not for “Legionary” 3mm scale like Vanguard is producing, but for O8 definitely. It doesn’t bother me because I love the bigness, and my super-mecha are intended to totally dwarf all opposition. But for “reasonable” sized Titans, it’ll be probably at least twice what you want it to be.

    I’ll take a nice comparison shot and you’ll see what I mean.

    in reply to: BSR Games (Mecha, Supertanks, Etc.) #85498
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    You mean like this? This is what the Technical Alliance uses, along with a selection of stealthy Grav Armor.

    in reply to: BSR Games (Mecha, Supertanks, Etc.) #85376
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    Various sizes of JSDF Mecha, from the lowly Combat Chassis to a heavy Type 4 Think Tank, to the “Taisho” Battle Titan.

    Funny story about the Taisho: while I was cleaning it to assemble it (lots of brass pinning in those shoulders!) the left arm flipped out of my hand and went right down the drain of my sink.  Would you believe it?  But wouldn’t you know, I contacted Gavin at The Ion Age, and they sent me a new one, gratis!  How’s THAT for customer service?  Special thanks to them for that!

    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    Yes. I realized after I posted since the forum subname is outsized by the thread title by about 400% on my mobile – I should have checked closer. If I’ve done wrong, please just delete the post – no controversy intended.

    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    Realizing that it’s not a Nordic Weasel product, I will say that Grunts, from Rottenlead, is a good one for this kind of game. You could treat your XCOM team as “special” characters to buff them, and the aliens as groups.

    in reply to: How Has Ageing Affected Your Gaming? #83041
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    Good God, one time on this ride is enough for me. Why would I want to screw things up for more than one lifetime?

    To go back to the OP, though, oddly as I’ve gotten older I’ve become more interested in smaller things, like my 3mm projects and just letting my imaginary whims play out. Gaming has become less of an activity and more of a nonspecific daydreaming exercise for me. I’m less bothered by things like rule systems or complexity or whatnot, and just generally more easygoing on myself.

    Disabilitywise, I’m okay so far, though my hearing has suffered since I had a nerve infection about a year ago. But I could stand to go deaf and still enjoy gaming I think.

    in reply to: BSR Games (Mecha, Supertanks, Etc.) #82974
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    Mecha have me thinking about Anime style armor and infantry, so here’s something I did around the edges for this: a few prototypes for the JGSDF National Readiness Force.  Clockwise from top left: NRF Infantry in Impact Armor, Type 74 Light Reconnaissance Vehicle, Type 102 Main Battle Tank, JGSDF A-1 Battlesuit Team.  Blue-grey and white with red markings felt very “anime” to me, and the colors worked out with a kind of cel-shaded look that worked out really well with the sharp detailing on the NCE tanks! (Plus I found that National Cheese Emporium has just put out some superheavy tanks to follow up the series, so, SCORE!)

    in reply to: Cities #82945
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    Being quite lazy and having to paint all those ruddy windows. Doesn’t do it for me.

    Oh man, my great weakness.  Probably because it’s what I do in my day job, I can’t stand doing model buildings in my hobbies.  Whatever gets the job done fastest and without painting is my go-to, definitely.

    in reply to: BSR Games (Mecha, Supertanks, Etc.) #82943
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    Yeah, I’m looking at something possibly like Mekton Z, perhaps using “Mekton: The Movie” with some alterations or scaling, as a possible alternative to SRBR.  But I’d only play that solo – I doubt it’d see day at the Club.  So SRBR is still my go-to if I try to bring in other players.

    in reply to: Cities #82863
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    A scale example: this is a nominal 1:285 scale building (in card, laser-printed cut-and-assemble) from Wargame Prints via Wargamevault.com.  The figures are 3mm scale.  They work very well together.

    in reply to: BSR Games (Mecha, Supertanks, Etc.) #82727
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    Yes! Mekton Zeta! How could I forget? Of course I doubt anyone at the club would have the patience for it, but it definitely has a feel like Advanced Samurai Robits Battle Royale, and has the scale and flexibility.

    in reply to: BSR Games (Mecha, Supertanks, Etc.) #82710
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    Wow, nothing, huh?

    Anyway, after much reading I’m going with Samurai Robots Battle Royale, combined with Mighty Monsters once the Alien Scourge descends. It’s the game that feels most flexible and most likely to deliver the kind of feel I’m looking for. For starters I’m finishing up a second Ronin (an Alternative Armies “Tavshar Archon”) along with some Grav Armor I have from National Cheese Emporium – these will be my initial antagonist forces from the Technical Alliance. I also have some of the 15mm scale Prydian mechs from Ion Age, Who will join a more conventional force as the mainstay of the Japan Mecha Self-Defense Force, defending the city of Megasaki from the Technate assault.

    I already have my eye on some of the larger aliens from Khurasan’s Not-Quite-Xenomorph range for an alien invasion, as well as GZG Crusty Mecha to go with some O8 Drah’z as a more “normal” alien invader.

    Yet another grandiose plan that will come to nothing no doubt but I don’t care. If I can’t have flights of fancy in my hobbies what the heck are they for?

    in reply to: Cities #82708
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    I think that’s probably an accurate assessment, and is also probably why I’m finding that “true” 6mm (ie, Microtanks/traditional 1:285 scale) work so well with the “Legionary” 3mm scale that Vanguard is making for Defeat in Detail. They all seem broadly compatible on the 3mm to 1:285 scale range, while modern “Nominal” 6mm scale feels too big and scales up better against 10mm buildings.

    Scale is really not a clear cut thing in gaming anymore, if it ever even was in the first place. But the good thing about that as you say is that it gives you more flexibility to revive and repurpose older models according to good visual aspect, instead of trying to “force” it.

    in reply to: Cities #82634
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    Another architect in the gaming… er, game? We are brothers!

    And yes, like a pure 1:1 rendition of architecture to gaming is impractical simply because it means ranges will be off the table just for starters. But like Rhoderic says it can definitely go some of the way without having to go all the way and land you with a more visually “believable” result.

    Urban buildings are super gigantic things. Cities likewise. And then there’s an issue of whether you’re doing a city fight at close quarters or modeling “urban terrain” to just indicate an undifferentiated built-up area, which is a whole different challenge. A scale skip is about the best happy medium I’ve found so far. Use 6mm buildings for 3mm figures, or 10mm for 6mm figures, 15mm for 10mm figures and so on.

    in reply to: Cities #82626
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    How timely! I’m actually about to start assembling the city of Megasaki for what I hope will be a campaign game of Samurai Robits Battle Royale and Mighty Monsters. My answer is yes, I love urban terrain and am always trying to come up with new ways to represent it in a way that looks good and is not going to require me to tax my vassals to pay for it.

    I’ve also found that terrain for cities is usually a scale removed from its “ticket” scale. Gamecraft’s 6mm scale ruins, for example, play way better to my eye against 3mm scale figures. Likewise the nominal 10mm cityscapes from Dropzone Commander, which I find are better at 6mm scale.

    Model urban terrain is routinely undersized for some reason, possibly because people making it scale it based on rooms in their houses, rather than on actual urban buildings, or perhaps due to the limitations imposed by the materials they’re using, cutting, or moulding with. A not terribly tall skyscraper could be, say, 250 feet tall, which would be close to 10” at 6mm scale. An entry door could be 12 or 14’ tall or more! Most entrances are no LESS thn 9’-0” high. Moreover, a typical city block in Manhattan would scale to about 11” x 36” easily, and a normal street could be as wide as 50’-0” or something approaching 2” at scale, or wider, plus another inch when you account for a 6’-0” sidewalk on each side of the street. Make it a wide boulevard like Park Avenue and you’re even bigger.

    So my preference is to build big and game small. I do love cities for gaming – the rules are easy enough but the terrain becomes satisfyingly complex, and it just looks good. I’m awful at painting buildings, so I like paper ones, even though they give out after a year or two. Cheap and relatively good looking, easy to build in the large numbers an urban game is likely to require and easy to replace.

    in reply to: Big Stompy Robots #82375
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    Those are seriously sessy mechs, man.  So much so that it’s making me feel really enthused about not only my 3mm scale Vanguard 40K titans, but my mecha game projects in general!  Are these all for Horizon Wars?  Have you considered any other game systems for them?

    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    I don’t have one yet, but soon! I want to get one of the 6mm scale ones as a mega-Titan, too – it would likely utterly dwarf the 3mm scale ones.

    Incidentally, for those who follow 40K canon, I’m no longer considering my “rebel” marines as Sons of Horus, but as something else… the “Unnamed Legion,” perhaps the effaced II Legion, rumored to have been named the “Hands of Fate” or “Stormbringers.” Were they actually rebels? Did they turn on the Empire before the Heresy even began? Or did they perhaps turn, and then repent? Was there some genetic experiment they embodied that went horribly wrong? What became of them in the confused fighting of the 30100s AD? Nobody really knows…

    Which is to say I basically picked teal blue and black as colors because I like them and, not finding a Heresy Legion to match, am making one up as I go along because damn if I’m repainting them because GW tells me to!

    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    Ô rage! Ô désespoir! Who will oppose this tide of heresy? The Titan Legions, of course! From their bases on Venus, the Legio Ultor stirs to the defense of Mankind!

    in reply to: Shiny Ink Washes #81705
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    Paint is either a solid or a tint. A watercolor stains the paper, but an oil or acrylic sits on top of it. So as you thin it down to mmake highlights and such the pigment gets thinner distribution and so it can break. Some media encourage that (crackle textures, for example) and others make it stretchier (flow improvers). But it’s still a thin layer of paint and if you put anything on it that has a solvent component, like a varnish, it can re-dissolve the outer layers and absorb them into the varnish and make them seem to “bleed.” It happens with ink on coarse paper, too – the liquid moves faster than it dries, and dropping water on it makes it dissolve again and run in weird directions.

    in reply to: Shiny Ink Washes #81701
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    The only consistently flat washes I’ve found are (hate to say it) Citadel. The others all look “candy coated” and have never felt satisfactory to me. I’m particularly fond of the current formulation of Seraphin Sepia and Nuln Oil, which when applied over Reaper Shadowed Steel are my go to replacement for dry brushing metals like guns and treads (Sepia for a rusty look, or Nuln for plain shadows).

    If you use heavy brush on varnish or anything that relies on surface tension to make a clear coat, washes will always be an issue I think. I prefer spray on acrylic sealant, as it has, I’ve found, a better bond and far less tendency to lift friable liquids like thinned top coats or washes. Just my two cents, of course.

    In re: inks designed for art applications, in particular, like Windsor Newton, they are formulated for porous surfaces like papers, boards and canvas, and I’m not convinced they will never sit exactly right on miniatures.  There’s no tooth in the substrate for it to adhere to. I imagine that has something to do with the lifting as well but I couldn’t prove it. Gesso might improve that, but I don’t care for gesso on my minis.

    in reply to: The Ratte #81418
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    Ogre is surprisingly versatile isn’t it? Simple game but still pretty robust overall, especially when what you’re going for is a fast playing pickup game that gets a lot of models on the table.

    Very nice Ratte model by the way – is it a kitbashed Maus at a different scale, perhaps? Would love to know how you or your opponent happened to come by it!

    in reply to: Card Terrain #81245
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    I am also 100% pro cardstock. Cheap and easy replacement. Works particularly well at 3mm scale to build big, sprawling cityscapes, if you have sharp tools and a good eye. They fall apart after about a year or two of hard gaming but for the price you can’t beat it.

    in reply to: 3mm terrain bases #80276
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    I generally make roads 3/4″ or 1″ wide, which although not really “to scale,” makes them navigable by units on a 5/8″ wide base.  Beyond that, I prefer to make my bases little town and village built-up-areas.  A main road, with buildings clustered near it, and wide back yards delineated by a line of glue and some coarse turf as hedges.  A 4″ hex makes a very convincing village.  I’m by no means super skilled in this area, though – I’d look at Mike’s work and just scale it down somewhat.

    in reply to: 3mm Not-Eldar #80256
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    SUPER amazing.  In fact, this will allay fears in my 40K compatriots at the proverbial “club” that they won’t be able to play Eldar.

    They’ll be able to play Eldar.  I will see to it.

    in reply to: BOLOs: Honor of the Regiment #80194
    Avatar photoMr. Average
    Participant

    It’s filed under their “New Terra” line.

    6mm Scifi

Viewing 40 posts - 1,161 through 1,200 (of 2,037 total)