Forum Replies Created
Second edition already? Has it even been a year since you released this?
I think I’ll skip it and wait for the 5th edition in June. 😀
Never mind, just realised there’s a big bag of tile spacers in the garage.
That does look nice. Are the buildings scratch built?
No more politics please. There are other sites for that.
Dude, one of the reasons I left TMP was because Bill decided to ban people from mentioning that the owner of Stafford Games was a neo-nazi (NF and BNP member, stood for parliament for them). If you’re going to have the same policy, you should let us know. I know a number of others who left TMP over that too.
Dude, it was a video you put up there. The poem one where you claim that “the left” are destroying America. You know, the one posted under the same name as the video you posted above?
I also never said you weren’t entitled to your opinion, however dubious it is, just as I’m entitled to my opinion that I won’t do business with right wing extremists. You’re free to put up whatever weird political screeds you like, you just aren’t entitled to be free of the consequences of doing so. One of those consequences is that I’m never going to do business with you because of your views.
Nice video. More people should do these, it is a great way to get a feel for it. Also you are younger looking than I imagined
I also saw the other video on the side there, the one proclaiming how “the left” is destroying America. So that’s one set of rules I will *not* be buying.
Bay Area Yards do some really nice buildings too, especially the townhouse style ones. They also mix well with S6.
S0 many…for 3mm, PicoArmor / O8, for 6mm, Baccus and Adler, for 10mm, Pendraken and Good Ground, for 15mm, Blue Moon, Forged in Battle. I think they’re my main ones, though I’m probably forgetting some others that I really like.
Dislikers of the rules are welcome to ignore the Discussion on Pendraken, those of us that like them at least will be able to sit there with their heads in their hands when BKCIII(c) turns out to be a dog’s dinner and moan ‘I TOLD ’em not to do that, I TOLD them didn’t I Deidre? you were there, you heard me’ or vice-versa when it is brilliant smugly say ‘Yes wll those of us in the discussion group always had high hopes our input would be respected. Pendraken are a fine set of fellows to recognise the great depth of Knowledge in the wargaming community. Oh, my pipe went out’ If you don’t vote you don’t get to moan about the new Government is what I am saying.
The problems we found with the rules were fundamental ones (the C&C system, the combat mechanic), which I’m pretty sure aren’t going to change. Any input from me is likely to be drowned out by others who are fine with the system, and ignored by the rules writers since they’re probably going to use the same fundamentals as are currently used (otherwise why bother buying the brand, just write their own rules).
Huh, more GB Joms than I remembered: http://www.grippingbeast.co.uk/Jomsvikings–category–42.html
Is this where I have to give my rant about how Luddites weren’t anti-technology again?
(They were anti-bad boss. There were a lot of factories where several bosses would own machinery together to save on costs, and where Luddites would go in and smash the machines of the bad bosses (ones who refused to pay their workers the agreed rate, or decided that safety apparatus would be better dismantled because if it interfered with the efficiency of the machinery even it it maimed or killed the workers operating it) and leave the machinery of good bosses alone. There’s a great discussion of it all in EP Thompson’s The Making of the English Working Class. Basically, the government at the time banned trade unions, and the Luddites appeared as if from nowhere and took action against bad bosses. Then the government decided to relent and allowed unions again, and the Luddites vanished into thin air. It’s almost like the two things were connected.)
Presumably some reference to the mendacious magniloquent misogynist who’s just joined the forum, I presume. Shame, this place was doing fairly well until this point. At least we have the Ignore User thing, though.
Austrians, no idea why, but I have them in 15mm and 6mm for Napoleonics, 6mm for SYW, and my Gebirgsjaeger have a distinctly Austrian tone (at least in my head).
Other than that, Graeco-Bactrians.
We had diverse forces in the game I mentioned (Mostly T72s, BMP-1s and infantry, with some air defence and artillery vs Chieftains, FVs and Infantry, Mortars, Artillery, and some recon Scorpion and Scimitars (and also some Air support, but I never even attempted to use them since I didn’t need to). Most of the BAOR had faster movement rates, but it was that in conjunction with the higher CV ratings that allowed my far too easy victory given that the scenario objective was just to get off table at the other end. The slower units headed for the table edge behind cover where possible (we had a couple of woods, a couple of hills and a small town, I think), the faster units just headed straight for the table edge. It was part of a campaign we were planning to do too, but it was so disappointing, we didn’t bother playing any more games in the series. We’d played a half dozen or so other games before that point, with similarly one-sided results (tanks in cover firing on tanks in the open firing back are almost always going to win).
Another game was my BAOR against Russians; the Russian player was attacking my defended town, so a lot of my units were in cover. We massacred the Russians (lots of stand and fire orders, again that high CV allowed me to pour fire into any unit that came close), and then a couple of days later we discovered that the opposing player had accidentally costed his units incorrectly, so he’d had almost 3 times the points he should have had on table, and yet I’d still destroyed him without losing much of my own forces. We hadn’t realised at the time, because his units were cheaper so I was expecting him to have more of them, and the scenario gave him something like 1.5 to 2 x the points I had as defender anyway.
It’s the only game in which I managed an easy win at the very start of turn 2. We played CWC a few times, but some of the scenarios are so one sided that it just wasn’t any fun for any of us. The one I remember most is having BAOR against Russians, I had to race to the end of the table to get off table while the Russians were chasing me. In my first turn I advanced, advanced again, then advanced again because of the C&C system and the BAOR high C&C factors. The Russian player managed one action before the turn passed back to me (and was still out of range after he’d moved since his tanks were slower than mine). The first action of the secodn turn, I ha almost all my force leave the table for the win. If I’d pushe dit, I could possibly have won in the first turn before the Russians even got the chance to take an action.
Not for us.
I think Sam Mustafa gets it just about right with his books – there’s some art work in there, there are some pics of figures just as you’d find in a decent wargames article in a good magazine, and there are loads of examples and diagrams etc showing you just what he means. And he tends to put everything into one book as well, with extra stuff as online freebies (mostly scenarios etc).
The problem with the “appealing to veteran wargamers” thing that someone mentioned above is that what seems obvious or usual to one set of wargamers somewhere might be completely at odds with the received wisdom of another set of wargamers elsewhere in the world. If you don’t explain your concepts clearly or give examples, it’s just not going to work.
Favourite: Napoleonics, closely followed by ECW.
Least Favourite: Fantasy / Sci Fi.
No, you don’t need bases like that. It matches the cards which show the firing zones, but all of mine are on 80mmx60mm normal bases.
I’m with the bear on this one. I won’t play with unpainted figures, which means I have to paint them (though I don’t generally mind painting), but the whole point of painting them is to play with them, not paint them then put them in a box or on a shelf where they’ll look pretty but not get used.
I have noted that when people talk about a games company they seem to use the blanket term ‘they’. As in, oh they do great models, they offer great service etc. However I suspect that most games companies are him. How do you refer to companies?
Using “they” acts for every eventuality, whether the company is owned and run by several people, or by a single person, whether male or female (using the singular they). It works in every situation, whereas “he” doesn’t.
Nice looking game and excellent explanation of the rules. Some interesting ideas there. I would be interested to hear from a person who had played both this and Impetus, as to which they though gave the better game.
There should be a link in my sig to my blog, which has several Impetus and S&S battle reports. I’ve pretty much wholly moved over to S&S from Impetus now.
For woods, I have a large felt piece that demarks the boundaries of the woods, and small stands of trees placed on it (3-4 trees on each piece), so if a unit is going through the woods, I just move the trees out of the way. With urban areas, I have square urban bases, with removable buildings and roads wide enough for stands to fit in, so usually I just have the stands in the roads, but I could remove a building to put a stand in its place if I wanted to.
Mostly I have removable buildings so that I can change up my urban areas as much as I like though.
Ah, I see. I tend to keep the white, that way if I get any on a figure when I’m slapping it on, I’m more likely to notice and try to get it off, or can paint over it more easily if I miss it.
When I get the rest of the figures painted, I’m going to do all the basing properly – I use a thinned down brown paint first, then some lighter highlights, some tufts and flock etc.
We’re using 80x60mm bases, near enough to the size of the cards for us.
They’re nice figures, and they do paint up really well. There’s a good bit of detail, but not too much, and the castings are good too. There’s a good variety of poses, and with packs where there should be some uniformity like pikemen, there are still some different details even where they’re mostly in the same pose. I’d definitely go for them again over OG.
Well, McLaddie, I thought long and hard about my reply, as any reply to you always generates twice as many postings, each twice as long, and each twice as prolix. In fact, I find the sheer volume of your postings extraordinary. At the present time, between you and Bandit, over half of the terminal postings on this game design forum, and well over 70% of the total number of postings ,have been done by one poster that is about to release his first wargame design, and another that has yet to show his “Completed work” on even one set. Now, I can understand how a person with money in the game, such as Bandit, would want to offer up postings that plug his ideas and concepts for his soon to be published game. He lacks subtlety, but his earnestness is fueled by concern about the success of his rules. That’s simply the angst of the first time publisher. You, however, seem to have an inordinate need to comment on others ideas and works, for no other reason than personal vanity. You post in volumes, often even replying to your own reply! You are like the eunuch advising the prince on the ways of love, or the guy at the cocktail party that just won’t shut up and follows you everywhere. You seemingly have no sense of self-awareness. One might wonder why so few (hardly any) of the established designers and people that have contributed much over the years to this hobby post much on this game design forum. They are here on TWW, many even advertise, but most have given up any idea of posting on the Game design forum, largely because of you. You may have seen this same pattern on several other forums where you follow the same behavior. (You must be retired, or have the least demanding lifestyle imaginable to have the time for your constant stream of verbiage.) Is that your goal? To be the guy that people cross the street to avoid??
Well said. Can I suggest you do as several others of us have done and simply put him on ignore? Your posts here are informative and welcome, and I’d hate to lose your input in an (almost certainly unlikely) attempt to get him to quieten down for a month.
Al of my Maurice stuff is 6mm on the same bases and works well. We have 2 bases per unit, counting each base as 2 30×30 bases that are side by side.