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I had a short email conversation with Jack a few weeks ago. He is too busy to game. He wished he wasn’t 🙂
If you do not mind the Two Hour Wargames reaction system, then Adventures in the Lost Lands is exactly what you want. While it does not use the most up to date THW reaction mechanism you can use what is in the rules, or just download the latest chain reaction rules (for free) and plug them into the rules. Campaigns, scenarios and exactly created for Lost World RPG skirmish type adventures.
Get it here:
This page also includes a link to the latest Chain Reaction rules.17/01/2019 at 07:06 in reply to: Battle of Tunis 310BC with own rules on 2'x2' on blog #107677
Sure. The programmed opponents has some concepts that can be reused but the detail is specific to the rules.
The core of the program is that the army is split into three zones – left, centre and right. Each zone will have a zone order:
Attack: aggressively advance to combat/missile fire
Probe: cautious advance and enter into favourable melees
Wait: cautious advance no further than centre line but change to Attack orders at first blood
Hold: don’t go over centre line and act defensively
Delay: similar to hold be try not be get into combat either.
(note that these roughly align to orders in WRG Ancients 7th edition)
A unit is of one of these types:
Impetuous: (will charge at enemies)
Shockers (Units that will get an advantage in melee when charging particular enemy types)
Each unit type acts differently depending on zone orders.
There are also optional rules for potential changing or orders in a zone and cautious and bold generals influencing changing orders.
For deployment, there are rules for randomly determining zone orders dependent on the army unit composition e.g. if a unit is mostly mounted it may randomly get an army strategy of Flank attack, Envelop flanks or Oblique. For Flank attack the zone orders are Attack for the strong flank, Probe for the centre and Wait for the weaker flank.
The programmed opponent really only works from deployment until the midgame when it becomes difficult to generalise a unit move
I enjoy playing new rules! Actually when i was younger with a lot more FTF we only played the latest WRG Ancients rules for ancients., and for 12 years just Armati II. For WW2, Tractics, then Combined Arms, then Take Cover!! over a space on 25 years. I flutter to new rules as I am a butterfly and have lots and lots of rulesets and want to play them all (!) as I find it very interesting on mechanisms used and an authors interpretation of battle.
The rules I play the most for the last 7 years now for WW2 and ancients are my own that I have steadily playtested and modified so in that respect I have not changed rules, just constantly tweaked 🙂
I really like scenario books and have used some of them a fair bit. For WW2 I have used some of the Two Fat Lardies IABSM scenario books as they fit nicely on the table. I have also played a few of the IABSM scenarios from the their specials. I am midway through playing the Operation Jupiter scenarios from Britton Publishers that I love as they are small in size and vignettes of battles (my current sweet spot for what I like to play). I have a few more of there scenario books but not played any scenarios from them due to lack of time. I use my own rules for all the replays.
For ancients, I rely on three of the Peter Sides scenario books of major ancient and medieval battles. I am trying to replay them chronologically but have only played about 30. I do some limited research and sometime change the battle around.29/12/2018 at 13:06 in reply to: WW2 6mm gaming on a 24cmx24cm gridded table on blog #106564
That is really strange about not seeing the images. I have done nothing different; the images are uploaded and added to the blog post directly and I have being doing it the same way for 8 years. I had a quick look around and could not see anything different or out of the ordinary. kyoteblue has had the same problem with a few images on the latest post of Just Jacks but that is likely just co-incidence!
I have one rule change I have noticed is not in the posted rules while doing the last battle report. I would update the rules but I have them linked in a few places. I will provide a link to the latest rules in battle report 5 post (and on my ww2 rules page on the blog)
Old rule as written: successful rally of a suppressed unit means the unit becomes pinned and is activated (so can perform actions as a pinned unit immediately).
Actual rule supposed to be: successful rally of a suppressed unit means it is now activated and can now do the actions of a pinned unit but after concluding actions is treated as normal. (The change is so you do not have to then roll another rally roll for the pinned unit – too much rallying for a fast game)29/12/2018 at 11:58 in reply to: WW2 6mm gaming on a 24cmx24cm gridded table on blog #106556
@Andrew – if I have helped in some small way to progress with some of your gaming ideas then I am quite happy. I take inspiration all the time from what others are doing so it is always good to do something in return.
@John – I am trying to not get much smaller! I have done a few games on an A4 sized piece of paper (8×8 gridded ancients and 3×4 ww2) so you are right – I have jumped way up into 12×12! I think I mentioned it at the end of the blog post but I did have a moment when I dreamed of doing all sorts of different games on 8×8 (ancients, ww2, SF, spaceships, WW1 dogfighting etc) but have got better and will try in 2019 to return to my more mundane 2’x2′ miniature gaming…probably.
On the assumption your “friend” already has the miniatures and a few bits of terrain, I would go A. I play with 20mm on a 2’x2′ and that is a stretch – 15mm or smaller looks fine on 2’x2′ and most 15mm rules will work on 2’x2′. Personally I think that 28mm would just be too large and have never played with 28mm on anything less than 3’x’3 Of course, with only 2-3 28mm minis on a 2’x2′ table then it may look OK.
I do like the sound of B – to me that is the most interesting but A is definitely the most playable and visually appealing.28/12/2018 at 12:15 in reply to: WW2 6mm gaming on a 24cmx24cm gridded table on blog #106481
It was June I played them so at least I posted them within a year of playing them and only about 4 months after I said I would 🙂 I seem to have got some mojo back in the evening to write up the blog posts so doing that first and then maybe even play some games with the 3-4 rules sets I have written over the last 6 months!
The current house is just on the market and the new house still has bits and pieces to do but on track to be moving in-able by end of January. But we won’t move until the current house it sold (apparently better to show a house with furniture).
Lastly, I make no promises on posting battle report number 5 but I have actually started it.
The few games of Cold War I have played I used Tank Wreck! and I enjoyed that. If I played some more, I am tempted to use WRG 1950-1985. I did use the latter for some Cold War games back in 1981-82.05/12/2018 at 11:45 in reply to: Solo Adventure blog post using mashup of THW Lovecraft's Revenge and my rules #105109
Six months ago I had as much interest in Cthulhu as you (i.e. zip). Horror is not my thing and I think I had only read one HP Lovecraft short story when I was about 15. I know of the Call of Cthulhu RPG as I had a few friends in University that played it. But a few years ago I read a series of 42 books that was a modern pulp detective series set in Australia. So I started reading more pulp, especially from the 30s and 40s. I already had THW Larger than Life (LTL) due to interest in it as a possible story framework, and also did a solo Pulp Alley game. My RPG is really simple and is there to drive the scenes of the story. The reason I looked at THW Lovecraft’s Revenge (LR) is I had read it was a streamlined version of Larger than Life. Which is sort of true. It does away with the 3×3 grid for PEFs and does simplify some of the steps. My preference is to run straight pulp stories with my solo RPG (and then move back into space!). Rather than try and fit LTL into LR, I thought I would run some LR and then fit the missing elements I liked from LTL (and then move to modify my mashup to something even more to my liking!). That meant getting in the mood reading some Cthulhu Mythos stories, of which I got some really cheap Kindle books from Amazon. I am nearing the end of them so will back to straight pulp in about month or so. I am assuming that I will post a few more LR inspired blog posts until I finish reading them and then become straight pulp ones using a modified scene framework. Of course, I may get back into miniatures too!
I have Sellswords and Spellsingers and have read blog posts on them (including yours). They do look like a fun skirmish set and I nearly thought about playing them in a spreadsheet (!). No time at present ☹
04/12/2018 at 12:10 in reply to: Solo Adventure blog post using mashup of THW Lovecraft's Revenge and my rules #105052
- This reply was modified 2 years, 6 months ago by Shaun Travers.
The solo RPG blog is new and was supposed to be used to replay Traveller Scenarios but using my own SF RPG. But it will be used for all pulpy type adventures with my own RPG that currently I am using for Lovecraft’s Revenge.
And you have a good memory! In 2012 I did start a Traveller adventure on another blog using the Traveller rules but did not get very far – about 7 posts. I realised solo Traveller I not for me. I like the setting but not playing the rules solo…which is why I have spent the last 6 years writing an solo RPG set I like to play!
Oh, the Solo Traveller blog (that I will no longer be posting to) is here: http://shauns-solo-traveller.blogspot.com/
02/12/2018 at 11:45 in reply to: Solo Adventure blog post using mashup of THW Lovecraft's Revenge and my rules #104942
- This reply was modified 2 years, 6 months ago by Shaun Travers.
Yes, I did not mind at all it did not finish. I know I could easily not finish an adventure successfully with other rules but I do like that Lovecraft’s Revenge explicitly states you are likely not to make it to the end!
Stephen – it was later than that – 1979. I was 14. At the only gaming club in Brisbane at the time there was not a wide choice of rules – if you wanted to play WW2, it was 1/72 and 1/76 plastics and Tractics. If you played Ancients, it was 25mm (and Minifigs or Hinchcliffe at that) and WRG.
My most played of my oldest wargame set is what I played when starting out with WW2 back when I was 15. Tractics.
I do have a copy of WRG Ancients 5th edition that I played in 1979. It put me off Ancients for 5 years!
I have since collected and played older sets of Ancient rules, but only played each once so do not think they really count
I am still here.
I have not run into problems with the new house but renovations on the new house are consuming – so many things to do! And we are also getting our existing house ready to sell so there is painting and all those maintenance jobs we have put off for the last 10 years 🙁 I expect to slow down by around Christmas. My expectations may or not be met but at least there is a goal. Besides the occasional game with the children my wargaming activity is writing various rules here and there but no time to play them…
i have WW2 Germans (in 6mm and 20mm) and the 20mm started being acquired soon after I started WW2 with British. I like to have both sides. For Romans, my first army was Ptolemaic and then 10 years later I got my next one – really late imperial (or patrician roman in the WRG lists) (425ish AD) that I bought off a friend. I did expand this to late imperial (300AD+) later on. But I did not get a “proper’ imperial (with the rectangular shield), or Marian until about 4 years ago (or 30 years from first playing Ancients).
I do not play Napoleonics so do not have an army I can field for them. On my list to do in the next 10 years is to maybe get a few 6mm French and British and finally give it a go.
I am a bit with Ivan – Impetuous to the point of being reckless. I also think I would not make a great general as I would undertake too many high risk endeavours, to the detriment of my soldiers. I do like a game to keep moving. I win about as much as I lose. And I have fun all the way regardless! I did have one friend years ago that was brilliant in defense – I would lose a lot of games against him if I was attacking. We played a lot of encounter games to make it fair 🙂
I tend to be on the impetuous side. And not always a good thing!
- This reply was modified 2 years, 8 months ago by Shaun Travers.
I am a fan of TRC (Jedko edition) and the Third Reich (I got into it as the 4th edition I believe) but I think have only played them each about half a dozen times, maybe more for TRC but it was a long time ago. These were two of the first boardgames I ever bought back in the early 80s. I still have them, even if I have played neither in 30 years ;-( Hoping to get some games in later on in life. I agree with all the above comments – TRC is great, Third Reich is unforgiving; only once played with a person that had played a lot and it was an eye-opener compared to us amateurs with only a few games.
Tobruk I have heard about but nothing more than that.
While my blog is full of games taking 30 minutes (ancients) and up to one hour (20mm WW2) they are all solo and I get easily bored with my opponent. I also tend t play them over a few weeks so even that 30 minutes if often a few 5-10 minutes at the game. In FTF gaming, i do like games that are longer than an hour – anywhere from 1.5 hours to 3.5 hours depending on the game. When it comes to boardgames, all bets are off. Games that play in less than 90 minutes are good at the moment as I can find time to play them with my children, but I will happily spend 4 hours at a sitting playing a boardgame. I could (and used to play longer) but no longer have the time 🙁 I am also happy if that 4 hours is part of a longer game so the game itself may take 20 hours and competed in five 4 hour gaming nights. But not much time for those either!
For 6mm I would find it too fiddly to have lift off roofs or lift up buildings to put infantry in them. So I have no preference on the building but would not use any mechanism to store units within them. Such stuff would be wasted on me 🙂
Now in 20mm I do have a few buildings with removable roofs and do use them to hide units in them. But I think I do this only because I can as it is a bit fiddly and have been known to forget that there are figures in there!
I agree with everything Norm said. I did laugh out loud at the “and some of your posts may stray outside of original intent” 🙂 as that described my blog absolutely, and I am sure many others (including Norm’s!).
I saw your post on FB asking for 6mm terrain…how could you Kyote after years of staying strong and maintaining the 15mm line Oh, unless you are a wargamer, then it is completely understandable you will get into another size or period or both 🙂 I thought Team Yankee was aimed at 15mm? Although it would look better in 6mm to be sure and I am sure I have seen it on someone’s blog. So double kudos for not only getting into another scale, but not doing the scale it is supposed to be! I have enough 6mm WW2 armies to easily fill a table tennis table…and enough terrain to fill a 2’x2′ board 🙁 One day I would like to produce more 6mm terrain to at least play on something like 6’x4′ as it would look fantastic. Anyway good luck on your 6mm terrain quest – at least 6mm terrain does not take up too much room.
Excellent to hear Kyote! I still have not got out of my mind the Pulp Cthulhu you are playing. I have been slowly working on a pulp SF RPG that I can play from a spreadsheet and use to play Traveller adventures. I also last year drafted up some rules (and played a game) of a cross of Chaos in Cairo and Pulp Alley. What this has led to is a new set of rules I am working on that is a cross of both of these rules to harmonise them and also be able to play out the Pulp Alley campaign books I bought. And on a 30cm board. I then also bought from Amazon a whole bunch of cheap Pulp Crime/Pulp Mystery/Cthulhu story collections. So I have lots of reading (I am 300 pages into the first omnibus) and hopefully some Pulp games as well! I am trying to blame you but I think it was a confluence of a whole bunch of events, including THW releasing their latest Chain Reaction rules that are quite streamlined. So count yourself off the hook…this time!
Note that Jack is not impressed and for some reason wants me to finish off and post my WW2 on a small gridded board AARs instead 🙂 Maybe he is not impressed ’cause I promised him I would…19/08/2018 at 01:04 in reply to: The Best and Worst Thing About the Online Gaming Forum #97229
But in the back of your mind you know that if you do travel to some part of the world where one of these people are, there is a good chance for a game 🙂
Excellent news! I must have missed the bit where you mentioned the French and Indian Wars project 🙁 I also saw you are doing a pulp campaign in another thread – it that at your house or someone else’s? And what rules? Inquiring minds need to know!
I love reading history, especially ancient history. And not just military but all aspects. In the 90s I would play a lot of multi-player boardgames, a lot of them operational games or strategic games that captured campaigns or the rise and fall of empires. I have moved back into miniatures and really like getting more interested in particular civilisations or geographic areas.
On a side note I have a friend that played Warhammer a lot for many years, then War Machine for many years. He then got introduced to Bolt Action (and subsequently Chain of Command). He was stunned in how much he enjoyed the history of WW2 behind the games. The others games have some manufactured history but he was surprised on the depth of it and enjoyed delving into the history of the times as much as the games, and found he enjoyed the games more due to having some knowledge of the period.
- This reply was modified 2 years, 10 months ago by Shaun Travers.
Tend to follow the same rules as above – reroll cocked dice and dice that go off the table. Don’t aim at the figures. Usually there is a clear spot or two on the table to roll dice. For the first 10 years or so of gaming life, my best friend and I played a lot of games. He did not like people holding onto dice when they were not being rolled. This is because he thought people would instill some luck into the dice if they held them! So as a rule once the dice were rolled they went back on the table – no holding onto them! And also dice belonged to no one so anyone could roll any dice – not because of cheating but again, someone could instill luck into their dice. It has been 20 years since I played a game with him but I still find it hard to watch people hold onto dice while not rolling them. Not enough to stop them doing it as it is me, not them, that has the problem 🙂 And it was not even my problem to start with!
The first 4 were test games and no real AAR although I am crafting a post around them on the rules changing as I played. but the 5th – that has a AAR in the works! It is now finding time to complete the writing.
…and I have no time (renovating a new house) but lots of space still in the map drawers with games setup to play 🙁 I have played a few 6mm WW2 games during lunchtime at work on a (very) small board testing out some rules. In the process of writing the whole process up.
I have not heard of the movie (please do not disown me!) but have now. I will put it down to the fact when it was released we were three years into IVF and the whole IVF years (six of them) were a blur. You also did not mention it has Monica Belluci in it, now making it a must see 🙂
I have NetFlix and so it is on my list to watch over the next week or so. I am about 5 batreps behind on your blog, so a few days wont make much of a difference. And it also prevents me from continuing to write up the games I have played…
I agree with Martin and Etanger- no projects are really abandoned, just deferred. I have recently gone back to a couple of projects that I put “on hold” over 30 years ago. “On hold” here could be taken to mean gaming hoarder, forethought, forget I had it or laziness but I refuse to divulge which it may have been!
Hello John (Salt)
With regards to your point 1, I believe NUTS! models this as well as when a unit is fired on you roll to see its effect on it “morale”, it could immediately fire back, go to ground or run away. I have simplified at little as there are also things that happen if you are outgunned (by more deadly guns). It is what makes for a very decent solo system as you are never sure what your units are going to do.
I found this discussion on TMP from last year a very good overview on pinned and suppressed for modern combat. A warning that it is 5 pages but it does have people that have been pinned and suppressed discussing it:
ComicLife is great! I have used it for about 5 WW2 skirmish game reports and it is easy to use and produces great comics. Here is a link to one of them:
An example from that report:
Depending on the audience I say “wargaming” if I think they have been exposed to any sort of gaming, or otherwise “playing with toy soldiers”. I also sometimes follow up to say it is like Warhammer but with Ancient or WW2 figures (as they are the two periods I mainly play).
I have used InfranView for as long as I can remember as my image viewer (for Windows). When I started blogging in 2010 I used that to manipulate the images for my blog. The original photos from the camera are about 5MB and all I do is crop the bit of the photo I want (occasionally rotate it a bit as well) and resize to be 1024 pixel wide. This reduces the image to be about 300-500KB that I then upload. I have been doing this for so long I can whip though 10-20 photos for a blog post in minutes. If I need to do some simple markup such as a couple of labels or arrows I use InfranView. For detailed markups or lots of them I tend to then use Paint.Net as it is easier to manipulate the settings for better control and also has a better undo feature.
I find space 🙂 I have stuff spread out and “hidden” so it does not look too bad. I have two low set set of drawers for 15mm and 20mm that still have room to grow. I have a set of map drawers with lots of stuff in them. I have a wardrobe that I added shelves to for boardgames. But I am moving to a new house this year and put all my scattered 20mm terrain together in one place. It takes up a lot more room than I thought! We will still have enough storage space for it but I was surprised how many boxes it took up. I have not hit a limit but don’t think would be able to buy too much more 20mm terrain.
Not Connard Sage: well spotted and Just Jack is correct – it is a typo. Thanks for finding the error! I have fixed it and so only one Chapman now 🙂