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I have books on WW2 Japan & Germany, know of a WW2 Soviet, but they tend to focus on platoon+ and only brush over the lower levels.
I have on on the VC/NVA for the Vietnam war, can find some on the modern US (it is surprising which military pams you can find only, especially the USMC).
But one book to rule them all and at the publishers bind them, I don’t know of any.
What I wont play is really limited to games that need a lot of miniatures to make an army and or require a large playing area, both of which I can’t do.
As for being ‘PC’ – if it happend historically, then I don’t see a problem with it, re the Pirates and slaves. When it comes to this scenario if the slaves are part of an objective to rescue them then it is ok. By making the ‘things’ that are not ‘PC’ the enemy for a game is fine.
I won’t play a game that requires players to commit crimes against humanity, but I don’t see a problem of playing a game that includes terrorists if they are the target of a raid and in their hideout. Burning a village during a raid is fine… just not round figures up for execution.
A viking raid (or similar) where they need to carry people off is fine too.
My miniatures don’t commit hate crimes – people do in real life. I can tell the difference between a game with toy soldiers and what actual people do/did.
I was able to get a few on VHS many years ago when they first came out, and that was all of them I could watch, as they never appeared on Australian TV.
I was totally stoked when I found the entire DVD collection on sale for $40. One of the best buys I have made.
I enjoy the series, but they do wander from the original books from time to time.
I think it is a brilliant idea, and one I will have to slip in to my games.
Not a sausage gaming wise. Plenty of other interesting things.
I am waiting for my 10mm Copplestone not LOTR to arrive, which I purchased as a gift for my self knowing I wouldn’t get anything gaming related.
I played a game in the tray yesterday to test how it would work, and I am happy with the results. You can read about the game on my blog: http://shelldrakewargames.blogspot.com.au/2017/12/rio-diablo-28mm-wild-west-campaign.html
Thanks! Merry Christmas to you and your family too Volunteer
In reply to your comment on my blog, I have some Copplestone not LOTR 10mm on the way to me in the mail, so I am looking forward to doing a fantasy game in all it’s full scenic glory in 2018.
There is a thread on TWW where I first discussed the Tray Battlefield idea, and it was 10mm that I had in mind for the tray… only I couldn’t make my mind up what period to play on the tray… I guess it will be fantasy
For me it is Iron Ivan games and Nordic Weasel games.
Splendid idea — shades of Hugh Walters’ “gladiators in a biscuit tin” from the 1970s. All the best, John.
I did a search for ‘Gladiators in a biscuit tin’ as I had never heard of it, and it is a cracking idea! Well made too.
Great idea! Maybe try it in 6mm: https://ablogofwar.blogspot.co.uk/2016/07/6mm-old-west-1.html
That looks awesome… but I already had my 28mm painted up, so don’t want to start all over again. I am trying to use the figures I already have in my lead pile
Getting image issues:
The image host was doing server maintenance when I was posting, so that may have done something to it. I have fixed it now (and checked with another browser to make sure), so please check again.
A very cool idea, but I only see the one picture.
It should show more than one now
I have used cut out foam card that I painted according to military symbology.
I have also stuck push pins in to foam card to represent the actual soldiers in the unit.
Both times was to test a set of rules before getting any figures.
A section with weapon support teams for scenario purposes
No worries. I am glad I finally posted something useful to someone
I have updated my thread with the photos of the project on a smaller tray too, to give you an idea what it can look like.
Update: the removeable terrain boards show above warped a bit and wont lie flat in the tray anymore, so back to the drawing board for that particular tray.
In the mean time I purchased a smaller MDF tray, painted the bottom and flocked it. It is a bit small for 15mm games at squad/section level, but I think it would work for 10mm well enough.
The following are shots of a WW2 game in the making. Figures are Peter Pig, buildings are Red Vectors sold through Minibits, the trees are something cheap I based, and the hay stack is a work in progress that I scratch built:
As you can see, the second tray is too small for 20 figures per side in 15mm, as the game would start up in close contact with each other.
The first tray measured 53cm x 32.5 cm, whereas the second one is 37.5 cm x 27.5 cm. The 10mm figures fit ok on the smaller tray, so I may end up going with the 10mm for the small tray.
I am thinking of making a tray myself to get the size I think will work, but I am not much of a carpenter, so might have to think long and hard about that idea.
I am currently making a ‘tray battlefield’ for use with squad sized units in 15mm. The rules I am playing are Iron Ivan games “Disposable Heroes: Point Blank”, which are intended for early 1900’s through to modern games, but easily adaptable to anything from Ancients to Sci-fi.
You only need about 10 figures per side to play a game, and if you go with 15mm figures, it can be very cheap to get up and running.
You can see the first protoype in this thread: https://www.thewargameswebsite.com/forums/topic/10mm-skirmish/
It has evolved a bit since my last post, and I should update the topic to reflect that, as it is now a smaller tray and with 15mm figures.
The great thing about using the tray is that I can carry it anywhere, move it around if need be and it doesn’t take up much space.
I also have a 60cm x 60 cm square foam board for bigger games.
- This reply was modified 1 year, 8 months ago by shelldrake. Reason: correction of spelling
K: I find it hard to paint these days due to my eyes, and wish I could pay someone to do them for me, but I can’t afford the cost due to a tight budget.01/12/2017 at 21:56 in reply to: Figures for Star Wars – Imperial Assault or Legion? #77562
Cheers Noel – I had read somewhere that they probably weren’t compatible.
I think I will wait until after Christmas for some price drops before getting anything, and to wait to see what the Star Wars Legion pack is like once it has been released. Legion has Scouts, which I would like, but IA doesn’t seem to have them, except for one with a large cannon type thing.
Still torn between buying the main box or getting just the add ons. I might be able to get away with the add on packs for what I want to do… less wastage doing it that way too.27/11/2017 at 10:38 in reply to: Figures for Star Wars – Imperial Assault or Legion? #77105
Does this help?
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Yes it does!
This one box would almost do exactly what I want give or take some extra storm troopers/rebels and bounty hunters.
Greatly appreciated, and many thanks
This topic is of interest to me too – I would really love to have some dismounted cavalry for a skirmish game (for scenarios) and Wargames Foundry make some, but not enough for what I have in mind.
I have thought of doing 28mm, with 10 to 20 figures per side myself.
In addition to Empress (and Perry, but I am including a link for them anyway) mentioned above, these seem to the the options (I am sure there are more though).
I am guessing pikemen would be of little use for a skirmish, but musketeers, dragoons and cavalry would be ok.
I have looked at Perry Miniatures: https://www.perry-miniatures.com/index.php?cPath=23_40_45
Wargames Foundry have a reasonable range, with some that are very skirmish friendly: https://www.wargamesfoundry.com/collections/english-civil-war
Renegade make some nice looking figures (but postage to Australia isn’t the best compared to other companies): http://www.renegademiniatures.com/eng_civil.htm
Bicorn have a range you might like: http://www.bicorne.net/acatalog/English-Civil-War.html
Redoubt have some – not too many photos though: http://www.redoubtenterprises.com/shop/?page=shop/browse&category_id=26a547b25cea83d016c35e12db9cbbba
Dixon have what looks like a large range, but I would prefer to have photos available before ordering: http://www.dixon-minis.com/shop/english-civil-war/
Of course there are the plastic Warlord box sets too.
I did contemplate 15mm (and 10mm!) for a skirmish game, but they looked more at home in massed units that a skirmish game. I like the Muesum Minatures range, but they no longer sells indivudual figures, which means if you want one figure, you will have at least 5 spares lying around.
Awesome bit of scenery.
What kind of planet have they landed on? Desert, Arid etc.
Are the pirates likely to come down to attack those that escaped?
Are the inhabitants of the planet hostile? Are they creatures, or a developed species?
What survival equipment is in the escape pod? Food/water? shelters? Medical equipment? Weapons?
Depending on the aswers to these questions as to how I would proceed.
I have always wanted to game a ‘what if’ with Colonial Germans and British South Africa, which your project brought to mind again.
Looks like you have a great time there – I can’t wait to go back. Fingers crossed it will be next year.
Will this be your first trip?
I really love Japan – every trip there has been awesome.
If you use facebook, there is a facebook group you could visit for more info on what to buy and where. It appears they are all ‘gaijin’, so English wouldn’t be a problem if you ask: https://www.facebook.com/groups/kantogamers/
A lot of gamers (RPG and board games included) seem to be very active on twitter as well shoud you use that medium.
Akihabara might be worth a look for kits (part of Tokyo) and the Edo Tokyo Museum (Edo Tokyo museum) next to the Sumo wrestling building is well worth a look. The Edo part has some great historical things to look at, including 1:1 scale model houses showing how people used to live, and there are some armour and swords on show.
This museum also has the WW2 surrender document tucked away in a corner too… I was staggered when I found it.
Kyoto itself has some fantastic sites to see in relation to historical buildings, including a nightingale floor at one of the places.
As for things for wargamers – they can be as rare as hens teeth, but they are there. My in laws were amazed that I had such a hobby when I first met them on my first trip to Japan. Not too sure where to point you for this one.
This web site is well worth a look for what castles and places are worth visiting: https://www.japan-guide.com/
I am happy to find out some information from my wife if you have any specific questions you would like answered.
Also, the lonley planet travel guide book is good for a browse and a place to start further investigations.
Nice work. I would love to play a game using all of that
When ever I introduce new rules I play out different stages with those I am playing with.
Depending on the type of rules I go through the initiative and turn sequence, playing them through with not combat etc.
Next I introduce movement and formations. We move troops around and change formations to see how that works.
Next we play through missile combat with each side rolling to hit at enemy troops set up deliberately, such as troops at close and long range, troops behind cover etc.
Finally we practice charging in and doing a bit of hand to hand.
Each time I have done this approach to new rules we have still enjoyed the gaming session and have a clear understanding as to what we can and can’t do ready for the next time we play.
These look great. If I could find some 15mm PLA infantry that suited my wallet* I would be tempted to get some for an opponent for my Modern Aussies.
*Actually, it is the postage that is a killer. Rebel Miniatures makes some PLA I would like but the postage to Australia is almost double the price of the figures, and with the exchange rate on top of that…
Here are some photos of work in progress.
I have cut out the roads for the tray board, and now I will cover them with fine sand and paint them to make them look more like a country road type of thing that will fit in for different game settings.
The road is in three pieces – one long straight, and two angled pieces. that way I can move them around to make a different appearance for each game. I have plenty of the black stuff I used, so I can make many different road options if I desire.
I will need to make some scenery pieces to fill the gaps you can see in the photo so that there aren’t any gaping holes in the fence/hedge lines. Some trees and corner peices to match the roads.
and with a Russian tank (15mm scale) to give an indication of the size for the playing area:
All games played on this tray are intended to be scenario driven. It might be a mission to take out an MG pit, to ambush a tank or a clearing patrol. Forces could be a simple anti-tank team with a panzerschrek for example or a section in support of an MG and they need to hold off the attackers.
I am happy with the work done so far, and with some trees and extra bits of scenery, I think it will work well.
Fantastic painting on the minis, and a great blog too. I somehow missed this thread when it was first started.
Cheers. I have seen some of these canvas things in some cheap shops in my area, and have been tempted to try them too.
As you thought, it was a bit late, but well worth keeping in mind for a later date.
I have flocked my bases and now about to make some modular roads for the tray now. I will post some more photos once they terrain bases are fully dried.
Thanks Guys. Now to decided which troops to use – Paras or Commandos.
I have started making the terrain boards for my tray skirmish.
I am using foam card/ board, and instead of making one single board, I have made two, with the intention of making other boards that can be swapped out, such as a river board.
I put masking tape round the edges as I have given them a black undercoat of spray paint and didn’t want the foam to melt.
They are drying as I type, and hopefully tomorrow I will flock them.
I still haven’t mad emy mind up as to the figures I want for the game, but I did find a handful of sample 10mm figures I had lying around, and some Peter Pig 15mm figures, and I am seriously leaning towards getting the Peter Pig miniatures instead, as they are smaller than the majority of my 15mm figures, and a bit larger than the 10mm.
If I do go ahead with the Peter Pig miniatures I will probably get some WW2, Wild West, AWI or Modern Africa.
I think everyone has about summed it up perfectly.
very nice… and just when I am really re thinking 10mm
I remember playing a 10mm skirmish campaign set in WWII North Africa years ago that was a lot of fun. We used full-sized tables, though, rather than scaling it down. Lots of long range shooting in that one.
That sounds like a lot of fun – how many troops were used for the games?
Yeah, I noticed the like button was laggy too, but thought it was my WiFi
Oh my… I have just found 10mm zombies, dinosaurs, alien greys, bugs…
- This reply was modified 1 year, 11 months ago by shelldrake. Reason: changes a o to a 0
I have some figures in process for Lion Rampant etc. I have one foot figure on a tiddlywink base, two on a 1p coin and 3 on a 2p coin. For cavalry I can’t remember, but I think the smallest base was a 2p coin. This works for me and doesn’t seem too fiddly at all. Hope this helps?
Tiddlywinks seem good. Not knowing what size a 1p etc coin is (being in Australia), it is hard to imagine what size they are. My country ditched their 1 and 2 cent pieces ages ago, so I can’t even give them a try.
I noticed when you use the like button a box appears asking if you want to share it, but can’t see a way of actually sharing. It would be useful for sharing on social media to bring more people to the forum. Well, at least let me tweet topics I am interested in
A couple of photos using tiddlywinks and some WW1 pendraken figures I had lying around.
I put together a late war section with 1 lewis gun (nearest one in the photos) and 9 riflemen. I also have a tank. Figures were placed on the tiddlywinks, which seems like the perfect size.
I would probably use something else for cavalry and bigger weapons.
The photos show the actual tray/playing area I am wanting to use. If I play setting up a game left to right I will be able to use one section/group per side and have room to manoeuvre. If I set up front and rear, I could put a couple of units per side for a bigger game.
Given the low number of figures needed to get a game going, I might order a variety of different periods to try out.