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I have finished painting all of my 10mm figures for my game. Yes, finished painting. I feel a bit at a loss, as I want more to paint now. Good news is that I have a few figures I can buy for my game, such as some artillery for anti tank use.
I am also very tempted to buy some French, as I kind of fancy painting something I don’t normally consider fielding on the table.
I am now focusing on making some scenery, and have a lot more to make.
The two ruined buildings are a work in progress, and I am happy how they are tuning out so far.
I will be making some more shell holes and shattered trees, and am working on making some 10mm barbed wire.
The concept of the barbed wire is working: I just need a good glue to hold it all together.
I have wanted to wargame the Falklands war for a long time, and will most likely play platoon level games with each section represented.
As for rules, I will probably convert a set of rules I already have to suit.
I seem to remember I have a supplement for Harpoon / Command decision around somewhere that listed the forces needed.
Sally 4th also have a free supplement for the Combat Patrol rules on their web site, which have been tempting me for a while: https://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/product/combat-patrol-falklands-war-supplement/
As a gunner by trade, having crewed M2A2s, M198s, M777s and 81mm mortars I can explain the different type of artillery fuses, but not a reason for delayed fuses by tanks.
Thank you for the reply and the encouraging words.
I have the battlegroup rules, but not the Africa books, and the main reason i went with 28mm is the reason you mentioned to do with lack of 15mm Aussies for North Africa.
I have Eurkea’s excellent Pacific range in 20mm, and will be very tempted to get some of their 15mm Pacific war too.
During my research on Syria, Crete has also been looming as an option.
And by only playing a section/squad with some limited support, gaming other areas is easier to do, and if I can reuse figures, even better.
One nice peice of handy terrain for the setting are olive groves.
This photo from the AWM site shows some Australians in Syria, and also helps me a lot with what type of truck I could use for my games.
Digging through my tree collection, I found some I purchased years ago, but had a really fake bright green colour to them:
The shape and size of these trees are idea for making an olive grove.
I now need to re flock and base a lot more trees this way, and then I will base them on strips of three trees to allow for easy storage.
I intend to make some stone walls to place around the edges to give it a look of being an actual plantation. This will also give some cover for the troops.
I know this post is over a year old, but can anyone tell me who makes the buildings and walls in the photo please?
I have just started my own North Africa/Syria setting, wanting to keep it to a section/squad with support per side.
I hope it wont get to this for myself… except for the excellent painting that is.
That’s looking good. The clump actually looks good as a tree.
I thought the same when I saw the photo I took for the first time. May have to look deeper in to that.
What little I have seen of What a Tanker has not impressed me but this is certainly a very neat use of the opportunity of the game, a crossover between traditional wargaming and RPG role playing. My own observations would be that: (1) You should stick rigorously to the one battle in each week of the war approach rather than being flexible (2) You should do everything, including the campaign in Greece to get a total view of the war
I want to do the Balkans, but the rules don’t have lists for the armour the Greeks had, and if they did, it would be very one sided, as the Greek armour only had machine guns on them.
I have updated my whiteboard for the game.
I shrank the dashboards so that I can fit eight of them on my whiteboard. This allows me to display the full German platoon of five tanks (not that I will always use all of them at once), and three enemy tanks, which was the norm for many Allied nations in early to mid war. The exception to this is the US tank platoons, and the Late war British platoons.
I supect I wont always be at full strength with my platoon, so I can add extra Allied dashboards in placement of German ones, should the need arise.
The red and blue magnets are just used to hold the dashboards in place. The numbers on some of them were from a different game I was using them for, and haven’t cleaned them yet.
I have also started glueing small pieces of foliage clusters to the flocked canvas board to represent hedges:
It will take a while to get this finished off, but it will be a way to relax next week when I get home from my new job.
The mini in the photo is a H&R 6mm Panther, and the house is one of those I found a few days back that has been undercoated, but not painted. The large clump next to the house is foliage cluster waiting to be used, not a big tree.
Nice! Looking forward to reading more when the campaign kicks off
Maybe paint/write the numbers on masking tape and stick it on top of the turret?
hmm, it might work. I will have to try it out and see what it looks like
Just found an excellent set of articles on German tank markings and colours:
This first link has the tank colours for the different years of the war, so it looks like I can initially get away with grey tanks from the start of my campaign, until the start of 1943. It will let me play a lot of games before I really need to worry about tank upgrades and cammo schemes.
So my tanks will be numbered 221, 222, 223, 224 and 225, designating them from the 2nd company, second platoon, 1st to 5th tank respectively, from the 1st Battalion, of the Panzer Regiment they are from.
Now, I won’t be painting numbers on the turrets of my tanks, so I will have to come up with a way to tell them all apart… maybe a small base with numbering on the top? I don’t want too large a base, so will need to think about this.
I went scavaging through my wardrobe lead pile of shame last night and came across these, which I had forgotten about:
I was a bit worried they wouldn’t work for WW2 Eastern Front, as a lot of the buildings on the market seem to be almost all wooden buildings, but I did a quick search and put my fears to rest:
So I am happy I can use these, and have a small village, and a bridge for my Russian Front part of my planned campaign.
The bridge is wide enough to take a German Panther, so I shouldn’t need worry about fitting models on the bridge.
What a brilliant idea! I think your magnetic board thing is genI use – I’ll definitely be pinching that!
You are welcome, but I suspect someone somewhere already thought of this before me 😉
That’s a long list of to-dos. H&R are nice and cheap. I wonder if you could paint a few hulls in grey and camo and swap turrets for different ank variants. I don’t know if the rules have anti-tank guns. If it does maybe Balkans could use them and have an ATG hunt? For reinforcements how about simply rolling higher than the number of tanks you have? And if you have a full platoon of 5, maybe on a ‘6’ command felt generous enough to attach a tank destroyer to your platoon or something.
Most of the to do list has kind of already been done over the last month, so it is really just actioning them now.
I have my initial H&R shopping list ready to go once I get my first pay cheque, and I am working on some scenery whilst waiting for things to get rolling. Fortunately I have some H&R tanks lying around to help with making the scenery.
I will probably not need to buy and paint too many different hulls to need turret swaps to begin with, but it isn’t a bad idea for later Pz IV variants.
The Rules don’t have anti-tank guns… it is purely a tank game, but I was thinking over the weekend of maybe using AT guns for the Balkans myself… did tanks get kill rings for AT guns?
Great idea on the reinforcements – I will give your idea a try. Thank you.
<p style=”font-size: 16px !important; line-height: 20px !important;”>Do NOT do as I did and buy cheap ‘stainless steel’ balls from eBay – I’ve ruined most of my paints with rust now…
</p> Too late. I had the same idea and now half my paint are full of rust.
Now I am fearing the type of ball bearings I put in to my paints…..
Update: I have started planning the first part of my campaign.
What a Tanker campaign notes
Concept: To form a German tank platoon and play it through the entire Second World War
The Platoon: 5 tanks, as per German Orbats for tank units (non-heavy tanks)
Time Scale: One game equals a week, although if I have time to play extra games, one game will equal
one day during a major battle. For example The Battle of Kursk lasted from 5 July 1943 – 23 August 1943, so each game played represents a day of this battle, rather than a week. This will be an adjusting time scale, so I won’t have to play then entire battle, just extra games if I have time.
Attrition: A system for replacements will need to be included when tanks and crews are lost. Maybe one die roll at the end of each game week, with an increasing chance of replacements per subsequent week if a die roll is failed.
Rest and Refit: If during the game the entire platoon has no more tanks, then the unit will be sent to the rear to rest, be re-equipped and build up to full strength again. At this point the unit can be moved to a new area of conflict if I feel like a change – i.e. taken from Russia and sent to Europe.
Starting Point: I will be ambitious with this campaign, and start with the Battle of France (10 May – 25 June 1940). I really hope to get some Tank upgrades, or more importantly, some Aces, before heading in to Russia.
Starting Tanks: I think I will keep it simple, and go with the PZ IV D, mainly because I can’t find any 6mm IV Bs or Cs to buy.
Upgrades: I will try to keep using the IVs until such stage as I can upgrade to something with a lot of teeth, should my tanks be able to upgrade to higher levels.
Enemy: I will try to stick to historical enemy troop/platoon orbats, and create a “Theater of operations” chart to provide random enemy tanks per each game. This will include different tank types, and a chance for opposing Aces to be included. The Aces will depend on the historical situation at the time, thus an Ace for French tanks will be less likely at During the Battle of France, but when Germany is on the defensive/retreat later in the War, there will be a greater chance to encounter them.
Background for my platoon: I will loosely base my platoon as part of the 2nd Panzer Division.
Created as one of the original three German tank divisions in 1935, participated in the campaigns in Poland (1939) and France (1940) before it returned to Poland for occupation duties (1940–1941). It took part in the Balkans campaign (1941) and then transferred to the Eastern Front in September 1941.
The division fought with Army Group Centre in the battles of Moscow (1941) and Kursk (1943). After heavy losses on the Eastern Front it was sent to France for rehabilitation (1944). It fought in Normandy and was almost completely destroyed in the Falaise Pocket (1944). It was rebuilt once more and fought in the Battle of the Bulge (1944) and in the defence of the Rhine (1945), surrendering to US forces at war’s end.
The biggest difficulty for this, is the Balkans campaign, and the enemy tanks I would need for it. I have found some Light Vickers Tanks that were used agains the Germans, but this would be very one sided, as a machine gun won’t do much harm to a Pz IV. I might skip the Balkans part due to ‘sportsmanship’ on my behalf.
Buy tanks – I will be using H&R simply because they are cheaper, thus allowing me to buy more tanks, and because they seem to have the biggest range of different tanks available.
Make more dashboards – I have enough for four tanks at the moment , so I will need another four minimum to begin with. I might have to have a smaller size printed to get them all on my magnetic white board.
Buy/make scenery – I have some gates and telegraph poles on the way, I will need some houses/farms etc, and make some roads, hedges etc.
Plenty of research for historical dates for battles and theatres. Although the games I will be playing wont actually be that historical, I need the dates and locations to plan the game and have the setting as historical as I can make it.
Find out when the Germans started painting their tanks in camouflage and what styles of camouflage. I can start with my tanks painted grey, but need to know when the colours changed so my upgrades will look the part. (Note – the web page I found the image of the Pz IV above, actually talks about the cammo, which was very helpful.
I have created charts to determine what my Platoon will be upgainst during the Battle of France. It is based on tanks in the rule book, and tanks I can find models of.
It seems I didn’t save my word file for enemy tanks for my campaign, so it was lucky I had a screen shot of it!
Thank you! I have taken advantage of this to order some things for my 6mm ‘What a Tanker’ game 🙂
I’m both impressed and scared by that list!!! I’ve been off work over two years with mental health issues and only now getting back into the hobby so my list is to learn and play two very simple games and do four bits of painting (some ruins and GW figures). I hope you enjoy the tasks ahead.
I understand where you are coming from – I had severe depression back in 2008, and it took me ages be become even slightly interested in the hobby for ages.
Taking it slow and setting small, but achievable goals, was an important part of my recovery.
This is also one of the reasons I love the ‘Fist Full of Lead’ rules – you only need five figures per side to play an enjoyable game, and it really lets me use the lead pile I already have, rather than buy heaps of new armies.
I do need a painting service though… my eyes just don’t seem to last long painting anymore, and I much prefer making scenery anyway 🙂
Very cool, and a great example of the magic system in the rules too
I have been tinkering with artist canvas to use as a playing area.
This is a flat one I experimented with, but I am not happy with the permanet roads, so will probably flock over them:
It is 40 cm x 30 cms. Just a bit bigger than my tray, but easier to get hands in to whilst playing.
I have a canvas on a wooden frame that is about the right size (40 cm x 60 cm) for what I want, but now I am starting to head away from the compact idea of the playing set up.
But, this artist box will hold up to a 62cm canvas, so it might be perfect for what I want:
A shop my wife goes to sells these, so I will take a look at one to see if the shelves are deep enough to hold trees and buildings etc.
With that folding box I’d be tempted to stick a game mat on each lid s when it opens the mat lay flat across it for playing surface. The gap underneath can be used for storage and accessable when the lids are at 90 degrees.
Brilliant! I hadn’t even thought of that.
This is one thing I love about forums. A simple idea turns in to something much better thanks to another’s way of thinking.
That’s a good list you got there. I’m lookimg forward to seeing the samurai project.
I have most of the figures to kick this off already, I just want to buy/make some scenery before starting. Keen to do this project too.
Some good proposals that look like a richness of play in 2020 is on the cards :-). I would like to start to break into Battlegroup this year, so will be interested in any write-ups that you do here.
This is a long slow burn project, as I am very slow to paint my miniatures, and I am relying on another player and getting the free time to align so we can play a game.
But, I will post here on Battlegroup when I have something to post.
I love these rules, but we found it is a set you really need to build all of your forces before playing, rather than get units here and there and play with what you have at the time.
That sounds like a very interesting bunch of projects – best of luck!
Thank you – I might need it 😉
Looks great! I think you just pushed me over the edge to get these rules.
The rules are great fun.
I read the rules carefully and watched a lof of youtube videos on the game before playing my first game.
I think ‘What a Tanker’ would be in the Top 5 of my favourite rules.
Very cool. I like your tray. It doesn’t look that small, but maybe the rules require something bigger? I vote German campaign, simply for the variety of opponents. Playing the British you’re only facing Germans and some talians. As Germans you’re lkely facing differnt enemies at each front. I’m guessing 3mm is too small for your preference? Where did you get the tray from? Looks like it’ll be simple to have several for different terrain types and stack them for storage with the minis stored inside.
Thank you 🙂
The size of the tray will be ok for two tanks per side. Three might be ok. I will have to play a game with more tanks to find out.
I actually decided on playing the Germans last night for the very reason you mentioned. I was reading my books on the different German Divisions hoping to find one that saw action against most nations, but I will probably do one that was in France during 1940, then have them slog in to and out of Russia. Further research on my behalf is needed.
I did think of using 3mm. I certanly would have plenty of room in my tray for more tanks, but I want to be able to move the turret as per the rules. It is one I may rethink in the future though.
The idea for the tray began with a much bigger tray that isn’t for wargaming, and I couldn’t find another one the same size, so I went with this tray that I found at a large Home and Hardware company we have here in Australia called Bunnings Wharehouse. The tray was only about $12AUD.
It is 37cm x 28cm on the inside. The original tray I had the inspiration from is 53 cm x 32 cm and has folding legs, so I could sit in bed when i was sick and play (which was actually the situation when I came up with the idea).
Stacking the trays and using them as storage is a great idea too.
I am currently looking at artists wooden boxes to see if they are big enough to do what I want, and be the complete storage and travel package for me
For example, this one I found is 40 cm x 28 cm. I would gut the box and use this type of thing quite happily:
Thanks Ian! Appreciate the feed back on the project, and the good luck for the new job 🙂
No drop for me using PC with Firefox… but that could be the blockers etc I am using
I own both set of rules. The Horse and Musket tends to have bigger units per player with 9 or 10 figures in some cases, as opposed to a suggested five per player in the core rules.
The horse and musket is focused on the time period and weapons, and whilst black poweder weapons are mentioned in the basic core rules, they are looked at in a bit more detail in the horse and musket set.
As I want to play F&IW games with the rules, I went ahead and purchased the additional rule set.
If you want to play games with various settings, with not so much focus on black powder weapons, I think the core rule book is a better buy for you.
Wiley Game Designs do sell the rules on special from time to time, so you can try out one set and look at maybe getting the other one at a later date.
I have books on WW2 Japan & Germany, know of a WW2 Soviet, but they tend to focus on platoon+ and only brush over the lower levels.
I have on on the VC/NVA for the Vietnam war, can find some on the modern US (it is surprising which military pams you can find only, especially the USMC).
But one book to rule them all and at the publishers bind them, I don’t know of any.
What I wont play is really limited to games that need a lot of miniatures to make an army and or require a large playing area, both of which I can’t do.
As for being ‘PC’ – if it happend historically, then I don’t see a problem with it, re the Pirates and slaves. When it comes to this scenario if the slaves are part of an objective to rescue them then it is ok. By making the ‘things’ that are not ‘PC’ the enemy for a game is fine.
I won’t play a game that requires players to commit crimes against humanity, but I don’t see a problem of playing a game that includes terrorists if they are the target of a raid and in their hideout. Burning a village during a raid is fine… just not round figures up for execution.
A viking raid (or similar) where they need to carry people off is fine too.
My miniatures don’t commit hate crimes – people do in real life. I can tell the difference between a game with toy soldiers and what actual people do/did.
I was able to get a few on VHS many years ago when they first came out, and that was all of them I could watch, as they never appeared on Australian TV.
I was totally stoked when I found the entire DVD collection on sale for $40. One of the best buys I have made.
I enjoy the series, but they do wander from the original books from time to time.
I think it is a brilliant idea, and one I will have to slip in to my games.
Not a sausage gaming wise. Plenty of other interesting things.
I am waiting for my 10mm Copplestone not LOTR to arrive, which I purchased as a gift for my self knowing I wouldn’t get anything gaming related.
I played a game in the tray yesterday to test how it would work, and I am happy with the results. You can read about the game on my blog: http://shelldrakewargames.blogspot.com.au/2017/12/rio-diablo-28mm-wild-west-campaign.html
Thanks! Merry Christmas to you and your family too Volunteer
In reply to your comment on my blog, I have some Copplestone not LOTR 10mm on the way to me in the mail, so I am looking forward to doing a fantasy game in all it’s full scenic glory in 2018.
There is a thread on TWW where I first discussed the Tray Battlefield idea, and it was 10mm that I had in mind for the tray… only I couldn’t make my mind up what period to play on the tray… I guess it will be fantasy
For me it is Iron Ivan games and Nordic Weasel games.