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  • in reply to: The battle or campaign you always wanted to do? #197158
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    I have always wanted to do WW2 desert war, and have actually made a start to doing so this last week: I have some Warlord Games 8th Army and Commonwealth, and ordered some Warlord Games Italians, all for a game using the “Five men at Kursk” rules.

    A car crash this week will put a bit of a halt to spending more on this project, but that might let me focus on some terrain making.

    in reply to: My Portable Wargame tile project #194990
    Avatar photoshelldrake
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    A few thing arrived in the mail these last two days:

    Bases for the 6mm Napoleonics, and some contrast paints to help with painting them (it will take a while to paint the 6mm figures, as my eyes don’t last long trying to paint them), 3mm buildings to make a town base for the scenery, as well as some 6mm ruins to use with the WW1 game.

    A heap more 8cm squares also arrived, including some rectangles so that I can offset the squares to change the grid pattern. The additional squares will allow me to make rivers, swamps and other terrain features for that layout.

    I also purchased some different coloured flocks to allow for different types of scenery, such as Veldt and Sandy areas.

    I also purchased “The Second Portable Wargame Compendium”, as I wanted the skirmish rules within, and was very pleasantly surprised to see a section of making tiles for the portable wargame that is exactly like I have been making my own. Great minds think alike!

     

    in reply to: My Portable Wargame tile project #194747
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    I spent the morning making some test pieces for the WW1 board, making some bombed out trees, some bombed out trees with a shell crater, and some shell craters:

    My Brigade Models bridges and churches arrived today, and I am very happy with the bridges, as they are match the size of the roads, so making rivers will be easy.

    I kept some of the squares aside to make the rivers, and now the bridges have arrived, I will commence making river sections whilst waiting for the second order of squares to arrive.

    I will wait for the 3mm village buildings to arrive before using the churches on any of the tiles, but in the meantime, here is what they look like:

     

    A book on the Boer war called “Wargaming in History: The second Boer war: that I ordered also arrived, so I hope to place an order for some 10mm Pendraken Boer War miniatures soon.

    I will probably make completely new squares for the Boer War, as I will want a different colour grass for the tiles, and (if I can find or amazing myself and make) some trees like would be found in South Africa, as well as more hilly terrain to suit the setting.

     

     

    in reply to: My Portable Wargame tile project #194725
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    Those trenches look brilliant. WWI is definitely a period I would like to get into but not sure on the type of game just yet but I will certainly references back to your trench layout.

    Thank you. I need to make sand bags along the front edge of each trench, and of course, paint them up.

    Figuring out how to make these trenches is a big game changer for me.

    I have a few WW1 wargame rules,and some other players have come up really amazing ways to make trenches for 28mm skirmish games.

    in reply to: My Portable Wargame tile project #194723
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    I finally cracked the design problems I was having with my trenches for the portable wargame, with the initial tiles shown in the image below.

    I intend to make one tile with an opening at the back for the start of a communication trench, and the tiles in front of the trenches will have a small section which will slope downward and have barbed wire in front of that section… at least that is the plan.

     

    in reply to: Adler Miniatures retirement #194722
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    Cripes.  I was hoping to place and order for some 6mm. Missed that boat too it seems.

    in reply to: My Portable Wargame tile project #194585
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    Are the STLs available anywhere else?

    I tracked down a Uk seller that prints the minis and will post to Australia, and as an added bonus, they sell the complete range of Waterloo Napoleonics, so can add the unit types that were missing from the Australian seller.

    in reply to: My Portable Wargame tile project #194570
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    Well, a bitter sweet update. My 6mm Napoleonics arrived today.

    The sweet part: They are lovely 3d printed miniatures.

    The bitter part: the order wasn’t 100% correct (missing some French Infantry and Line Lancers), and the seller has decided not to sell them anymore as his printers are busy printing out other items, thus I can no longer complete my armies, nor get the figures from the collection that were not listed on the web site yet.

    Feeling absolutely gutted by this. I will be able to play smaller Brigade level games with what I have, but really wanted to have a complete French and British Infantry Division, with two Cavalry brigades to go along with them.

    I will make the best out of the situation and scale down to Brigade level games as mentioned, but unless I can someone selling 3d prints of the same range, I can shelve my long term goal of adding Russians and Dutch to the collection for 1814 & 1815 campaigns.

    Photos attached is of a historical strength French Brigade with a battery, two cavalry regiments and brigade command (seen on the right side) and a historical strength British Brigade with a battery, two cavalry regiments and the brigade command.

    Now to order bases for the figures, and whilst waiting for those to arrive, I can begin painting at a very basic level.

    in reply to: My Portable Wargame tile project #194506
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    Very nice. How did you make the forest? I’ve not seen anything like than and the closest I can think of is flocking a polystyrene ball but that would be more regular I think…

    I am using some 1.5cm pompoms that I found in a random store near where I live.

    They are a pain to glue together; I had to glue them in small batches and push weighted objects up against them to keep them in place whilst the glue dried.

    I haven’t been glueing them directly on to the squares as I wanted to keep the mess down when painting and flocking the pompoms and the squares, but might give it a try if it will be faster and easier to manage.

    I also contemplated adding trunks to the pompoms, but that seemed like a very large amount of work for somethings that is abstract.

    in reply to: My Portable Wargame tile project #194457
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    My latest update:

    I have flocked all of the basic squares, made the roads, some modular hills and a test forest square.

    I am very keen to get the bridges and houses I have ordered, so that I can make river and towns squares, but that could be some weeks off now.

    Here are some photos of the work completed so far:

     

    I intend to make some more forest tiles and more hills. I have made extra road and field sections to allow for greater variation in the playing area, and I will be making some hedges to boarder some of the tiles. I will also find a different colour flock to help make some crop fields.

    My 6mm Napoleonics should arrive today or tomorrow, which will give me something to do whilst waiting for the bridges and buildings to arrive.

     

     

     

    in reply to: My Portable Wargame tile project #194349
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    Update: I have painted the majority of the squares and have started flocking some of them.

    Here is a sneak preview of the work done so far:

     

    I am working on hills and forests for the table, and as previously mentioned, once my 3mm scale buildings and bridges arrive, I will start making river and town tiles for the game.

    The figures on the table are 6mm 3d printed Napoleonic British that I have as samples.

    My French and British Division+ should be arriving on Tuesday or Wednesday.

    in reply to: My Portable Wargame tile project #194348
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    if you can just stright and right angles, an easy way to add depth to the squares is glue the mdf to 6mm (or 10mm or even 20mm) foam core board, Use the mdf side for level areas and the card side to dig in trenchs and shell holes, rivers etcs…

    It is actually my intention to use foam card/board to the squares for my trenches… I just need to make the measurements that will make reasonable looking trenches.

    in reply to: My Portable Wargame tile project #194307
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    I will probably go with raised ever so slightly to keep the costs down on how many tiles I need.

    in reply to: My Portable Wargame tile project #194292
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    Update: I have started undercoating my squares so that I can flock them over the weekend.

    I have marked out two curving corner pieces, one cross road, one t intersection, and about 15 straight road sections, which should be enough.

    I was contemplating if I should make scenic bases, i.e. bases with hills and forests etc. glued on, or make scenic pieces to place on the squares, but decided to stick with my original plan of glueing them on to the bases permanently.

    Thus, I have ordered another 100 squares, which will allow me to make rivers, lakes, trenches, shell holes, and hills to allow greater flexibility with how and what I can lay out on the table.

    I also ordered some rectangles to allow for an offset playing area, as per Andrew’s suggestion in an earlier reply. This will give me even more set up options.

    Thank you to everyone so far for ideas on ensuring my bases won’t slip around when playing.

    I discovered this morning that I can purchase large magnetic sheets, which could be laid on the table like a gaming matt, or I can buy a customised sized magnetic white board, which would allow for the game to be portable, in that I don’t have to pack up my tiles if I need to move the game around.

    I have some magnetic tape I can place on the back of my tiles, which can then be placed on the white board when setting up a game.

    Note: I just checked the prices and options for the white board and the custom sized sheets, and whilst the white board is more expensive, I can actually have it made to the size I want.

    I will make the tiles for the game and then look at getting the white board later on… especially as I have a few bills to pay this week.

     

    in reply to: My Portable Wargame tile project #194265
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    Update #1

    I just placed an order for some small scale bridges and churches from Brigade Miniatures, and some 3m houses and 6mm ruins from Battlescale.

    The 6mm ruins are for use with the WW1 game, and all the smaller items are for use with 6mm battles.

    Once they arrive I will start making river and town sections for the project.

    in reply to: My Portable Wargame tile project #194264
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    Still a great idea Mike even if it was already suggested, and making an image as to how I can do it is very helpful too, so I appreciate your reply.

    in reply to: My Portable Wargame tile project #194263
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    Thank you for the suggestions and links in your reply Andrew. Seeing Ian’s Salute board and the way the carpet tiles were used is very tempting to investigate further.

    I had thought about buying some ‘offset’ tiles as you suggested, and may do so once I have the main tiles up and running.

    I would like to make 2D or 3D trenches – I just need to come up with an idea that will look good and not take a lot of time or be overly complicated to make. I will post updates on what I experiment with as I go.

    in reply to: My Portable Wargame tile project #194224
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    Yes, I did consider a frame… but have no idea how to make it 😁

    I did think makebe velcro dots on the rear to hold it in place on some material.

    in reply to: Stolen armies #194049
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    I found some photos of about 10% of my wild west miniatures that I took when I was testing the concept for a small playing area that would have used building fronts only.

     

     

    The figures were a mix of Artizan, Black Scorpion, Brigade Miniatures, original release Wargames Foundry and the odd figure here and there.

    in reply to: British soldiers 1990-2003 in 15mm/28mm #194010
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    I am not sure if they fall into the years reqested, but Eureka miniatures make 28mm Modern British.

    in reply to: Stolen armies #194007
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    I am in Victoria, Australia.

    Safly not a big enough wargaming comminity in my area to make the sale of my items even a blip on the radar.

    in reply to: Stolen armies #194002
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    Would you consider setting up a PO Box so that people could send you models to get you started again?

    Could even be random models that may lead you somewhere you never knew that you may want to go?

    Thank you for the thought. It isn’t something I had considered, as I posted as a vent to help deal with the situation.

    I am finding other things missing as I clean up the mess left behind. Discovered my 6mm WW2 has gone too. This was a small collection, but still annoys me a lot.

    in reply to: Stolen armies #193999
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    Sadly they would have been sold at a weekend local market, which has no way of tracing the scum that took them.
    2023 was a bad year for me, and that was the icing on the cake just before New Years.

    They have taken other things too, but I am still sorting out the mess left behind.

    in reply to: 10mm Trench hammer #186424
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    Update:

    I have finished painting all of my  10mm figures for my game. Yes, finished painting.  I feel a bit at a loss, as I want more to paint now. Good news is that I have a few figures I can buy for my game, such as some artillery for anti tank use.

    I am also very tempted to buy some French, as I kind of fancy painting something I don’t normally consider fielding on the table.

     

    I am now focusing on making some scenery, and have a lot more to make.

     

     

    The two ruined  buildings are a work in progress, and I am happy how they are tuning out so far.

     

    I will be making some more shell holes and shattered trees, and am working on making some 10mm barbed wire.

    The concept of the barbed wire is working: I just need a good glue to hold it all together.

    in reply to: Wargaming the Land Battles of the Falklands War #185884
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    I have wanted to wargame the Falklands war for a long time, and will most likely play platoon level games with each section represented.

    As for rules, I will probably convert a set of rules I already have to suit.

    I seem to remember I have a supplement for Harpoon / Command decision around somewhere that listed the forces needed.

    Sally 4th also have a free supplement for the Combat Patrol rules on their web site, which have been tempting me for a while: https://wargamesbuildings.co.uk/product/combat-patrol-falklands-war-supplement/

    in reply to: Silly question: Tank HE shell fuzes? #185702
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    As a gunner by trade, having crewed M2A2s, M198s, M777s and 81mm mortars I can explain the different type of artillery fuses, but not a reason for delayed fuses by tanks.

    in reply to: WW2 North Africa & Syria project #168867
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    Thank you for the reply and the encouraging words.

    I have the battlegroup rules, but not the Africa books, and the main reason i went with 28mm is the reason you mentioned to do with lack of 15mm Aussies for North Africa.

    I have Eurkea’s excellent Pacific range in 20mm, and will be very tempted to get some of their 15mm Pacific war too.

    During my research on Syria, Crete has also been looming as an option.

    And by only playing a section/squad with some limited support, gaming other areas is easier to do, and if I can reuse figures, even better.

    in reply to: WW2 North Africa & Syria project #168785
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    Olive groves

    One nice peice of handy terrain for the setting are olive groves.

    This photo from the AWM site shows some Australians in Syria, and also helps me a lot with what type of truck I could use for my games.

    Digging through my tree collection, I found some I purchased years ago, but had a really fake bright green colour to them:

    One of the trees in all it's bright greeness

    The shape and size of these trees are idea for making an olive grove.

     

    I now need to re flock and base  a lot more trees this way, and then I will base them on strips of three trees to allow for easy storage.

    I intend to make some stone walls to place around the edges to give it a look of being an actual plantation. This will also give some cover for the troops.

    in reply to: Troops on Parade 28mm Italian WW2 Desert Force #168652
    Avatar photoshelldrake
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    I know this post is over a year old, but can anyone tell me who makes the buildings and walls in the photo please?

    in reply to: British Desert Force 1941 #168650
    Avatar photoshelldrake
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    I have just started my own North Africa/Syria setting, wanting to keep it to a section/squad with support per side.

    I hope it wont get to this for myself… except for the excellent painting that is.

    in reply to: What a Tanker, solo 6mm game #129409
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    That’s looking good. The clump actually looks good as a tree.

    I thought the same when I saw the photo I took for the first time. May have to look deeper in to that.

    in reply to: What a Tanker, solo 6mm game #129408
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    What little I have seen of What a Tanker has not impressed me but this is certainly a very neat use of the opportunity of the game, a crossover between traditional wargaming and RPG role playing. My own observations would be that: (1) You should stick rigorously to the one battle in each week of the war approach rather than being flexible (2) You should do everything, including the campaign in Greece to get a total view of the war

     

    I want to do the Balkans, but the rules don’t have lists for the armour the Greeks had, and if they did, it would be very one sided, as the Greek armour only had machine guns on them.

    in reply to: What a Tanker, solo 6mm game #129326
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    I have updated my whiteboard for the game.

    I shrank the dashboards so that I can fit eight of them on my whiteboard.  This allows me to display the full German platoon of five tanks (not that I will always use all of them at once), and three enemy tanks, which was the norm for many Allied nations in early to mid war. The exception to this is the US tank platoons, and the Late war British platoons.

    I supect I wont always be at full strength with my platoon, so I can add extra Allied dashboards in placement of German ones, should the need arise.

    The red and blue magnets are just used to hold the dashboards in place. The numbers on some of them were from a different game I was using them for, and haven’t cleaned them yet.

     

    I have also started glueing small pieces of foliage clusters to the flocked canvas board to represent hedges:

     

    It will take a while to get this finished off, but it will be a way to relax next week when I get home from my new job.

    The mini in the photo is a H&R 6mm Panther, and the house is one of those I found a few days back that has been undercoated, but not painted. The large clump next to the house is foliage cluster waiting to be used, not a big tree.

    in reply to: Japanese Little Big Men #129214
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    Nice! Looking forward to reading more when the campaign kicks off

    in reply to: What a Tanker, solo 6mm game #129213
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    Maybe paint/write the numbers on masking tape and stick it on top of the turret?

    hmm, it might work. I will have to try it out and see what it looks like

    in reply to: What a Tanker, solo 6mm game #129166
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    Just found an excellent set of articles on German tank markings and colours:

     

    https://mistertretiakpresents.wordpress.com/2015/03/09/world-war-2-german-camouflage-and-tactical-markings-part-i/

    This first link has the tank colours for the different years of the war, so it looks like I can initially get away with grey tanks from the start of my campaign, until the start of 1943. It will let me play a lot of games before I really need to worry about tank upgrades and cammo schemes.

    https://mistertretiakpresents.wordpress.com/2015/03/26/world-war-2-german-camouflage-and-tactical-markings-part-2/

    So my tanks will be numbered 221, 222, 223, 224 and 225, designating them from the 2nd company, second platoon, 1st to 5th tank respectively, from the 1st Battalion, of the Panzer Regiment they are from.

    Now, I won’t be painting numbers on the turrets of my tanks, so I will have to come up with a way to tell them all apart… maybe a small base with numbering on the top? I don’t want too large a base, so will need to think about this.

    in reply to: What a Tanker, solo 6mm game #129162
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    I went scavaging through my wardrobe lead pile of shame last night and came across these, which I had forgotten about:

    I was a bit worried they wouldn’t work for WW2 Eastern Front, as a lot of the buildings on the market seem to be almost all wooden buildings, but I did a quick search and put my fears to rest:

     

    So I am happy I can use these, and have a small village, and a bridge for my Russian Front part of my planned campaign.

    The bridge is wide enough to take a German Panther, so I shouldn’t need worry about fitting models on the bridge.

    in reply to: What a Tanker, solo 6mm game #129158
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    What a brilliant idea! I think your magnetic board thing is genI use – I’ll definitely be pinching that!

    You are welcome, but I suspect someone somewhere already thought of this before me 😉

    in reply to: What a Tanker, solo 6mm game #129089
    Avatar photoshelldrake
    Participant

    That’s a long list of to-dos. H&R are nice and cheap. I wonder if you could paint a few hulls in grey and camo and swap turrets for different ank variants. I don’t know if the rules have anti-tank guns. If it does maybe Balkans could use them and have an ATG hunt? For reinforcements how about simply rolling higher than the number of tanks you have? And if you have a full platoon of 5, maybe on a ‘6’ command felt generous enough to attach a tank destroyer to your platoon or something.

    Most of the to do list has kind of already been done over the last month, so it is really just actioning them now.

    I have my initial H&R shopping list ready to go once I get my first pay cheque, and I am working on some scenery whilst waiting for things to get rolling. Fortunately I have some H&R tanks lying around to help with making the scenery.

    I will probably not need to buy and paint too many different hulls to need turret swaps to begin with, but it isn’t a bad idea for later Pz IV variants.

    The Rules don’t have anti-tank guns… it is purely a tank game, but I was thinking over the weekend of maybe using AT guns for the Balkans myself… did tanks get kill rings for AT guns?

    Great idea on the reinforcements – I will give your idea a try. Thank you.

     

    in reply to: Nail Varnish Holders #129088
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    Participant

    <p style=”font-size: 16px !important; line-height: 20px !important;”>Do NOT do as I did and buy cheap ‘stainless steel’ balls from eBay – I’ve ruined most of my paints with rust now…

    </p> Too late. I had the same idea and now half my paint are full of rust.

    Now I am fearing the type of ball bearings I put in to my paints…..

Viewing 40 posts - 1 through 40 (of 508 total)