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Thank you very much – I’ll check them out
Many thanks MartinR.
1864 looks especially good – the 5 minute trailer with English subtitles drew me in – so that’s definitely one to watch.
I’m looking for inspiration for time and place, more than for actions to wargame, as it helps me get ‘into’ the period.
The short was interesting. The Goose film sounds very watchable too and I shall try and track it down.
The strategic immobility of the French early in the war (the whole Imperial phase) wsn’t just due to bad leadership. The supply chain was not working and most troops were basically out of supply. My take on it is here.
That’s a great blog post, thank you. I’ve just watched Champ d’Honneur and your post has put much into perspective.
Useful review, thanks
I have something similar on the go but using Dragons Rampant13/02/2021 at 11:33 in reply to: Where Can I Get A Cara Dune (Mandalorian) 15mm Figure #150902
Now that I’m caught up on the news, it looks like Carano might have already gotten a brand new movie deal today. A tough and resilient actress like her can’t be destroyed for simply doing the exact same thing that Pedro Pascal did (with absolute impunity it seems).
Please do explain how you arrive at the conclusion that the tweets by Carano and Pascal were “the exact same thing”.
That was an interesting 10 minutes of thinking (no doubt to be followed by many hours of self-recrimination for my failure to stay focussed ….).
Just over 30 (for human minis only) is my score, though many of these were for purchases of only a few minis. Perry has garnered most of my ‘traffic’, across a variety of projects.
In the last few years my purchases have been restricted to plastics, mostly Perry sprues, supplemented by Victrix and Warlord.
Much of the ‘so far unused’ lead should really be moved on but I suspect that I’m not alone in that ! Lol
NB: some duplications for scale
1. Airfix HO/OO (1970s)
2. Citadel(?) 25mm (1980s)
3. Peter Pig 15mm (1980s)
4. Bolt Action Minis 28mm ‘old metals’ (2000s)
5. Artizan Designs 28mm (2000s)
6. Perry 28mm (2000s/2010s)
7. Conquest Minis 28mm (2000s)
8. Essex Minis 25mm (2000s/2010s)
9. Crusader Minis 28mm (2000s)
10. Boot Hill Minis (2000s/2010s)
11. Ebob Minis 28mm (2000s/2010s)
12. Heresy 28mm (2000s)
13. Infinity 28mm (2000s)
14. Hasslefree 28mm (2000s/2010s)
15. Wargames Factory 28mm (2000s)
16. Games Workshop 28mm (2000s/2010s)
17. Conquest Games 28mm (2010s)
18. The Assault Group 28mm (2000s/2010s)
19. Steel Fist Minis (2010s)
20. Pro Gloria Minis (2010s)
21. MiniatureMojo 28mm (2010s)
22. Pendraken 15mm (2010s)
23. CP Models 15mm (2010s)
24. Brigade Models 15mm (2010s)
25. Great Escape Games 28mm (2010s)
26. Brigade Models 28mm (2010s)
27. Mutton Chop Minis 28mm (2010s)
28. Unfeasibly Minis 28mm (2010s)
29. Fife & Drum Minis 28mm (2010s)
30. Wargames Foundry 28mm (2010s)
31. Studio Miniatures 28mm (2010s)
32. Warlord Games 28mm (2010s)
33. Frostgrave Minis 28mm (2010s)
34. Perry 8mm (2010s)
35. Victrix Minis 28mm (2010s)
Can happen on LAF too.
If image was taken on a mobile device, subsequently save it though a resizing app and it should post as desired.
My hierarchy for a good game would be:
Good people at the table.
Lots of attractive minis.
Lavish terrain which doesn’t hinder the game.
An interesting scenario.
Good rules and perhaps a good referee.
I am in absolute agreement
I also use a non-shine hairspray from ASDA to seal static grass onto terrain pieces. I used to use plastikote sealer but, as above, the smell…..
For minis, I used to brush varnish the static grass but I didn’t like the clumpy effect that resulted. Now I apply the grass after varnishing but onto dilute PVA-type glue. I brush away the loose fibres when dry and haven’t found the need to subsequently seal. NB: I do use a static tool, which probably helps.
- This reply was modified 4 years, 4 months ago by Silent Invader.
I use Knauf Dry Wall Easy Plaster over foamboard that is first brushed with glue. Ignore what’s going on in the photo as it’s being used for a different technique but this is what it looks like:
It can be carved, sanded and sealed. I say ‘can’ but for mud walls I really should say ‘must’, as it’s intended for large-ish sections of wall not 28mm buildings. It’s a relatively labour intensive solution and I doubt it’d work well for the very small scales but I like working with it and I like the result. 🙂
Anyways, this is the finished effect:
It’s been painted with DIY emulsions. (Valspar from B&Q)
You’re all too kind. The effect is very simple to produce as, in many respects, it’s just an illusion. I make my terrain on 6mm thick 30cm sq MDF tiles so (other than Belgium, which is raised on plinths for the building basements) there is no real depth. The lack of depth means the technique could also be used for sectioned rivers, though snake-like strips of MDF would probably warp so the base might need to be something more stable (hmmm, not sure what).
Anyways, the bank is raised up using slivers of foam board and plaster:
Then a base texture for the ground level using sifted ‘sharp sand’ onto the aforementioned glue:
Painting (the Afghan river was clear and shallow, so had texture to its bed, whereas The North river is tinted and deep, so the bed is left smooth):
Then the pour:
The pour will overlap and have some shrinkage, which is actually a good thing, as it allows the adding of extra layers including waves and turbulence. For the Afghan river, protruding rocks were repainted as ‘dry’ after the river had cured.
I haven’t got a suitable finished image of the WIP section above but the following is just downstream. In the foreground is a ford and in the shot you can just about make out the texture of the shallower river bed.
In this Afghan/Arizona/Sicily shot you can see the rocks etc underwater:
So, though a long post I’m not advocating anyone doing it this way (horses for courses, each to their own, etc, etc), I just wanted to show that what works for me is the result of what is actually a pretty simple process.
I did (do) use the above-mentioned glue as a key ingredient in my SSS snow mix – it’s very versatile stuff (but always the blue bottle, never the green bottle).
Not going to ‘show off’ by bombarding images though, just trying to be helpful.
Mike: my incompetence was in image formatting. D’oh!
SM: Phew! All the terrain is 1/56 (Belgium actually uses 1/72 Airfix resin buildings that I upscaled). Here’s a shot with a bicycle in it, though sadly it is partly under rubble (the mini is one of Paul Hicks WW1 range).
Sorry SM, I didn’t mean to offend, if that’s what I’ve done. I just think that the Evo-stick ‘blue bottle’ resin glue is a great product for water, however the river is constructed.
You’re rivers are great. Many would find my system to be too inflexible as the rivers are within 30cm tiles, which limits the choice of layouts. I mostly play solo, so I have only myself to please. 🙂
Wood glue has already been mentioned but I just wanted to flag Resin W Weatherproof Exterior Wood Adhesive by Evo-Stik (the blue bottle).
I use it for all sorts of terrain building but it makes a very useful water, either clear or tinted (for which I use a drop of Vallejo Model Air).
By layering it you can get all sorts of depths and effects.
It’ll also take paint and white or clear silicone sealant (caulk).
River in The North:
Ditch in Belgium:
Images are from my project website:
Late to the party but this is my first post here so it might as well be something I’m presently working on
I pretty make the woodland in a way that works for the specific project.
My current build is for Belgium 1914 (my Tommy And Fritz game), which uses trees with plugs so that they can be removed for access:
But I also sometimes use trees permanently fixed to the board, as in Winter Wreaks Wild:
And other times I mount a small group on CDs, such as for By Arrow Bill & Sword:
Edited 26/11/16 for broken image link
- This reply was modified 4 years, 6 months ago by Silent Invader.