Forum Replies Created
Have looked through all the items tagged as ‘ship’ & a few other tags but found only 2 that might be of some use. Loads of good ideas but mostly spaceships and board game pieces.
I’ll have a look at the two sets of files I downloaded and get back to you if I think they could be usable.
Tony of TTT
Great Mike, thanks
Tony of TTT
Another possibility is anyone who does 3D prints of ships of these types & at this scale – though they may be out of my price bracket having seen some of the stuff on sale.
Tony of TTT
Thanks for all the good wishes, it looks like all that good karma worked because I’m now through surgery and back home again. Still a fair way to go for a full(ish) recovery but, less than a week after surgery, I’m managing better than I expected and still improving a bit each day. It still seems incredible that you can lose a third of a lung and be up and walking in less than a week. On lots of painkillers and likely to be for a bit yet and still waiting for some other side effects to subside but relieved that it is over for now and I can look forward again.
Tony of TTT
Thanks for the kind wishes. Now know that I’ll be getting surgery next week.
Tony of TTT
Yes please. I did it this way as it was quicker and easier – lots to do before I get the op and wanted this done today.
Tony of TTT
Just checked and I do have figures like the illustration on the Essex website for MER36A but can’t find the illustration you provided for MER36
Tony of TTT
I think I have a couple of packs of MER36 but no Russians.
e-Mail me at admin AT tinytintroops DOT CO DOT UK or phone if you still have the number
Tony of TTT
A country that has 51 different taxation systems calls VAT confusing !!!!
Mr.Average – most small producers in the UK do not pay VAT so can’t deduct it. Another blow for the small businesses that all governments seem to ignore.
It isn’t a ‘protective tariff’ in any way, shape or form. We pay VAT on most goods that we use in the UK whether produced locally or imported. Not applying that tax to imports would be favouring imports over domestic produce – that isn’t protectionism at all.
Books are the easy option, I sometimes buy a small pile of cheap/specialist books for my wife to offer to those of our kids who can’t think of anything else then she gives me the rest from her. If the books are readily available then I just give them a list.
I wouldn’t want paint bought by anyone for me – very personal thing paint. My wargaming mostly mates don’t do presents between us – with the possible exception of significant birthdays.
To be honest I’d rather go without than have them waste money buying stuff I’d probably never use.16/11/2020 at 15:49 in reply to: 1/3000 ships – paint them base or base then paint? #146936
I’ve painted many pre-dreads both ways and I haven’t found much difference.23/10/2020 at 22:44 in reply to: Wargaming budget, what’s yours and how do you set them? #145874
I spend what I’m likely to be able to paint or read but always forget to allow for the stuff I already have and that didn’t get done as planned. I am working my way through projects that went on the back burner but I usually end up spending something on most of them even though 110% of the figures were already bought.
I have spent on a few things I wouldn’t have even considered over the past couple of years but that has largely been money from sales of unwanted bits or a lack of anything that I really want to spend in my main areas of interest.
I have a load of time since retirement & Covid reduced other possible activities but I’m still only making small nett inroads into the lead pile and I’ve now got stuff ready for games that it will take a while to catch up once I can get mates over to play with them.
I did have a budget for quite a while but now I have less need for providing for a family (all grown up) and the necessary habits of thrift in those times make us anything but spendthrift, we manage happily on what income we have and manage to live as well as we want to. Hobbies were always important to both of us but wargaming isn’t as expensive as some yet more long lasting than most.
The only service from Royal Mail that is (officially) both tracked and signed for is Special Delivery and the price for that starts at £6.70 for a 100g packet – for 2kg you’d pay £11. No 2nd class rates cover full tracking and signature BUT, if you send a parcel, you do get a tracking number – even though the service isn’t specifically mentioned and often gets updated some time after the arrival of the package.
At one time charging postage & packing as a %age of order value was the norm, now it isn’t really acceptable without some upper limit (and probably a lower one too).
Royal Mail is still my carrier of choice except for larger, heavier items.
Possibly ‘troops’ may refer to the non-commissioned officers & privates in mess-room chat but it is more commonly used to refer to the whole of the fighting force.
As in ‘send in the troops’. Probably ‘trooping the colours’ refers to the same sense – showing the colours to all the troops (i.e. the whole regiment).
Buried at sea with half my lead each at my head & feet, wound up in my gaming cloths.20/09/2020 at 15:16 in reply to: Is anyone else having problems with recent Osprey purchases ? #144351
They did finally send a replacement – it arrived just over a week ago. Service is rubbish and torturously slow.
I do much the same with my bases for all scales, just use finer sand as the size of the figures goes down. I too prime the bases dark brown (including the edges) and then seal the sand with the same paint followed by dry brushing.
Why do you use a toothpick to spread the PVA ? I have seen other people say this and often wondered why you don’t use a brush ? I’m sure there must be a good reason but it doesn’t come to my mind as being easier than using a tool actually designed for the purpose.
Recently I’ve been using a dice holder and magnetic strip to hold a label on the rear of some bases (for 30mm square bases for 10mm figures). I was a bit dubious at first, thinking it wouldn’t look good, but it surprised me how soon you get used to ignoring the label & die when you don’t need the information on them.
It is probably facing the wrong way because someone slid it onto the pole from the wrong end !
It often seems to happen with flags hung from an horizontal pole and not spotted because relatively few people know the conventions of heraldic display.
Can’t say it was a surprise but I will really miss that show. Four of us usually make a long weekend of it and stay for a few nights so it isn’t just the shopping.
The site obviously won’t take anything like the usual capacity with current restrictions and I can’t see how they will be any different by February. I doubt that any insurance company would cover for losses if the show was cancelled after arrangement had been made, deposits paid and commitments to expenditure made – no organisation in their right mind would risk that without insurance.
There is something strange about that page – it came up as an html listing and my anti-virus went bananas.
You don’t need to have the surfaces too far distant before the magnetic attraction becomes negligible. I doubt that flocked surfaces would work with any type of magnetic sheet backing, though it might work with the very strong single magnets.
I have a couple of boards covered in vinyl sheet impregnated with soft iron and they happily hold magnetised bases of 2-15mm figures while being turned vertically. These both have a paint coat over the vinyl sheet but I wouldn’t risk flocking them. The only issue is that the surfaces of the magnetic sheet on the bases and the iron filled sheet on the board are quite smooth so a knock can make heavier bases slide a bit when stored vertically so I have to be careful moving them. The painted surface helps a bit in that respect.
So it is easier to hit with a musket than an LMG ? Sounds very strange.
Here is how I do my bases for our modification of Irregular wars. A dieholder and a Ferrosheet strip at the rear of the base to take a Resolve die & a unit label.
Figures are Pendraken 10mm on 30mm square bases.
Tony of TTT10/07/2020 at 10:21 in reply to: Am I the only hobbyist who simply doesn’t believe in undercoat colours? #140070
If you put on a top coat of highly pigmented, opaque colour then the undercoat is irrelevant – that should be obvious. Using thin layers of semi-opaque paint with more layers in some areas than others (they way older artists used to do) then the undercoat will affect the final colour, though to a variable extent.
I do mostly 6-15mm and only occasional larger stuff. Block painting with opaque colours works best IMHO on smaller figures, then a wash (sometimes) and a few highlights.
What I want from a primer is a good surface for the paint to adhere to without it visually obscuring the detail. Both black & white make it more difficult to see the figure details so I add an undercoat to make details more visible. Dry brushed white over a dark primer & a black or dark brown wash or glaze over light primer.
The effect of both is to make the higher spots lighter than the lower parts and this can often let me manage with a single coat of colours that don’t cover too well because the undercoat gives me a bit of shading in low areas. The high areas then get hit with the highlight at the end, if they are too dull.
That is how I see primer, undercoat (or basecoat – same thing) & top coat working for me.
Personally I find the confusion of using incorrect terminology annoying and damaging. It isn’t easy for a beginner to get a good start if the community continually ignores those who misuse well accepted terminology and claim that it doesn’t matter. It does matter if you you’re just starting.09/07/2020 at 21:25 in reply to: Am I the only hobbyist who simply doesn’t believe in undercoat colours? #140051
Primer and undercoat are different in function. You can make one coat do both jobs but using an undercoat to affect the appearance of a following coat is not the purpose of primer.30/06/2020 at 09:26 in reply to: Any advice on WWI specialist troop employment please? #139185
That is a good bit of info Robert and confirms my thoughts.
British infantry had cycles as part of their normal equipment, not sure exactly how many per Bn but they were used for a variety of tasks as pictures & memoirs show them used by signallers, engineers and messengers as well as for Recce.25/06/2020 at 11:11 in reply to: Any advice on WWI specialist troop employment please? #138718
British engineer companies were usually spread out over the division but not usually attached to specific sub-units. They had a series of roles (demolition, road repair, minor bridging etc.) and also provided tools and expertise to the infantry for larger works that needed manpower. French & German engineers operated in a similar fashion though both tended to have more specialised engineering units as well (though more likely at Corps level). I’d expect an on-table engineer unit to be smaller than a company, often a lot smaller, but not always able to do all possible engineering tasks, just those it was specifically equipped for. British engineers certainly had some motor transport and motor cycles come up in the memoirs being used by engineers too but also lots of engineers in place to demolish but with no explosives or no detonators & such.
German Jaegers with cavalry divisions (I think they were technically Corps troops but not sure) added significant firepower to the small German cavalry divisions – they had 6 MG, the same as a full infantry regiment. Never quite sure how big the cyclist engineers were in reality as they don’t seem to get many mentions and are often absent from TOE.
British cycle troops were, as far as I can find out, mostly used as messengers and LoC troops in small parcels. Cavalry did the recce work.
French cyclists may have been similar but I think that they were intended more for a similar role to the German Jaegers but I’m not familiar with any evidence that would prove that.
Don’t forget Signal units & Bridging trains though these are more likely to be scenario specific units. I use some signaller bases to indicate observer links back to artillery and divisional command and I have bridge building bases but can’t find anyone that does bridging trains in 10mm.
Tony of TTT
Yes, I’ll miss Phalanx too. Not only is it my local show but a damn good one too. I missed last year as we’d booked a holiday before the date was announced and they clashed, first time I’d missed in many years.
We were in York for the weekend & Vapnartak when all this started and Phalanx would have been my next show. Joy of Six won’t be happening either and I’m not sure I’d go to Fiasco even if it happens – not the best venue in the current circumstances.
At least we have had most wargaming suppliers still producing & shipping so we shouldn’t complain too much.
Martin is right. German, French & British 2 MG per Bn BUT not necessarily all assigned to one Bn. British rarely shared their MG with another Bn or massed those from a brigade. French & Germans seem to vary quite a lot and it isn’t always clear from descriptions of actions how often all 6 MG were massed either in support of an attack or in defence. All that can be said, I think, is that both practices are possible.
Belgians didn’t have enough MMG to field as many as their big cousins but did have small numbers of a light MG which proved very effective.
Russians were short of MG and the training to use them effectively in supporting attacks but they did use them very effectively in defence. It is also said that German reserve regiments, particularly in the east, had less MG in the early days of the war.
I tried to name as many of my 6mm HotT armies as I could after B-movie titles or references.
Nomad Arabs were (obviously) Sons of the Desert, the cavemen & mammoths were the Tribe that time forgot & so forth.
It didn’t really work well as the joke got weaker the harder I tried to make it work.
If the cork has been coloured with paint (which is what I used) it will neither wash off nor soak up any water. Some were coloured with inks and they may still soak up water but, with the small grain size, I doubt that would be very much in practice. Larger particles would feel a bit spongy but the smaller stuff I used was mostly around 1 mm.
I can’t immediately think of a way of telling the difference between cork & softwood sawdust. Particle shape would be my guess – cork forms more spherical bits than wood, which would tend to have more longer bits due to the grain.
This may sound daft but try filing bits off a wine cork, a fairly fine file but not needle file fine, and see how that compares to what you have.
It is quite probably what they called ‘cork filings’ – much better than sawdust. You could buy it in various grades and it could be coloured with craft paints quite easily, either before applying it or after. I made tons of my own years ago but haven’t used flock for a while now, I switched to sand as it is more durable and doesn’t come off the bases like flock used to.
Some of the flock a pal uses is quite ‘gritty’ so it may be pulverised pumice or similar light rock.
That attitude stopped being funny over thirty years ago, now it’s just pathetic.
Craftsmen and their crafts were possibly the earliest specialists in human society. They were professional (in both modern meanings of the term – they earned a living at it and they were self-regulating) by medieval times and only really disappear as a common feature of life here in the UK after WW2.
As with most terminology, words change to mean what is done now that has some link (however vague or tenuous) to an older activity. With craft & craftsmen now being more akin to artists (and actually artists were merely a specialist form of interior decorator to begin with) and the ‘creative’ being very much in vogue (as if it ever went away) you get new vocabulary to cope. ‘Crafting’ is just another rather lame construct (at least it isn’t as bad as ‘primering’ – a REAL nonsense word) produced by advertisers, the crafts it refers to are rarely new and many have been around for millennia.
Just like modelling, some crafts are more difficult to master than others but none should be demeaned or assumed to be less than others because they are mostly practiced by one gender or other division of society.
Adding to my lead pile wouldn’t be a good idea (even though I’m looking at yet more DBA armies in 15mm when I still have 5 to paint) as I already have too much that I do want to get on the table.
If I was starting with £100 (assuming I’d got paints, brushes & basic tools already) then you could do both sides for almost any horse & musket period in 6mm for that – not large armies but enough to have a decent game with. I’d probably go for WSS.
If you held a gun to my head and made me spend it then probably books that are more that I’d usually be prepared to pay.
“This is probably a stupid question but how do you tell if you are buying good quality drill bits? Is price the only guide to this or is there a brand you would recommend?”
Good question and I’m not sure that the answer is simple.
Buying from a good retail source that you know or expect to only stock quality tools SHOULD be the simplest way but I’ve found that many these days stock inferior tools. I put that down to plastics and they assume you don’t need decent kit to work plastics – wrong, you do.
If buying over the ‘net you can get a set of the drills I described very cheap (less than £5) and that is what I did. They haven’t done bad service and after a quite reasonable amount of use the most used are now too blunt to use. I then searched out a specific manufacturer of drill bits (don’t ask, I don’t remember the name) and paid 10 times as much for packs of a few bits in my most used sizes & shared them with a mate.
I won’t retract the advice but, unless you buy tools regularly (and I used to), you might find identifying a good supplier a lot harder today than it was 30 years ago. I can’t complain about my cheap internet buy so I’d get a pack of those and see how they go for you. If I can find the purchase I’ll post the name of the supplier here when I do.
I find that using a pin vice is much easier to control if the figure is held in the other hand. Be gentle with pressure, trying to force the bit won’t help. Only increase the pressure a bit once it starts to cut and you can see dross coming out. If you have difficulty getting started then try using a smaller bit to make a pilot hole.
I’d advise getting one of the sets that run from about 0.5mm up to about 2mm but the ones around 1mm will get the most wear and may need replacing more often. Splash out on a good set of bits and they will last with careful use, poor quality sets blunt too soon and are impossible to work with after a short time. Surprisingly drilling plastic seems to be more affected that metal by the sharpness of the bit and it can be murder trying to start a hole on some curved surfaces.
The French are well known for inventing new colours. It started in the 15th century when some new ones were added to the simple heraldic palette and got ‘translated’ into other languages and then re-interpreted later to increase the confusion. By the 18th century it went quite silly with colours to match a princess’ dress and other daft ideas – all just for fashion. To make it worse people started using older names for familiar colours and some of those were still in use for a different colour. What can you expect from a nation that used a white cross on a white flag as a colonel’s colour !!!
The same happens with British facing colours though, even without inventing new colours. What exactly is Grass Green – look at grass and you’ll see it is a riot of different colours so which one do you choose ?
Not quite 2mm (but I did other periods in 2mm) but I did some WW2 stuff in 3mm (1/600th) and used the fine wire from an old cable as the wire – just coiled around a barbeque skewer. I didn’t bother with posts, just a few drops of superglue on the base along the line of the wire and hold the wire down for a few seconds until it sets enough to hold.
I know early WW1 wire was not laid in rolls line that but, if you want the linear entanglements you can drill the base and put in florist’s wire a few mm apart and then entangle the wires randomly through the maze of posts, trimming off any post that are too long afterwards. Fiddly but it works OK in 6mm.
Tony of TTT