Home › Forums › Horse and Musket › 18th Century › In and Out of Scale
- This topic has 11 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 8 years, 10 months ago by Norm S.
-
AuthorPosts
-
17/06/2015 at 18:52 #26258repiqueoneParticipant
Carefully done, the mixing of manufacturers allows for added variety of troops, and the difference in proportions, if not extreme, allows a nice variability of human sizes and girth. This can be true even with relatively large variations if confined to specific units within an army, rather than mixed within units. An occasional fat major, or short sergeant can add real character to a unit. It also adds a lot more choice and variety to periods that fewer companies provide figures for.
My 25mm WSS forces have castings of infantry, cavalry, and artillery, as well as support elements from Ebor, Front Rank, Old Glory, Warfare, Reiver, Blue Moon, Dixon, and Redoubt ( in that order of numbers).
I’ve also decided for reasons of scale and table area to use a mix of 10 and 15 mm structures, rather than 28mm! The two scales, carefully chosen, and if kept consistent within a particular terrain element mix quite well, and allow the structures to be closer to matching actual ground scale, than when matching the figure scales. They also store more readily, and do not appear too incongruent with the stand mounted figures.
I’m experimenting with a Vauban Fort from Total Battle Miniatures in 15mm using 18mm figures and guns on the walls, the theory being “forced perspective” (they would look smaller at a distance from a besieging army) with the besiegers being my regular 28mm troops.
I think mixing scales of terrain and figures, as well as manufacturers, allows for some creative battle staging, and the eye, and gamer’s perceptions, adapt quickly to any discrepancies. Even photos of battles using these scale-flexible techniques look every bit as good as those with a fixed terrain or figure scale.
It also means that one set of 10-15 mm structures can be used with any scale from 10-28mm! ( if I had my major armies in 15mm, and never played 28s, I might opt for 6mm terrain that could be used from 6-15mm.)
Hills, trees, and walls can literally be of any scale vis a vis the figures.
Anybody else using flexible scales?
For more see: http://www.repiquerules.com/page2/files/tag-wargames-terrain.html
17/06/2015 at 20:56 #26261kyoteblueParticipantI only game in 15mm any more so that is what all my terrain is. Shrug, works for me.
17/06/2015 at 22:27 #26263Norm SParticipantI know that some players recommend dropping down to the next scale for terrain. A lot of the time it doesn’t seem to matter, unless you are close up and looking at doorways etc, but I think overall the brain is easily tricked into accepting the smaller terrain.
19/06/2015 at 15:55 #26355willzParticipantI have just built 4 x 1/72 18th century buildings by Faller to use for my 25/28mm games, also they will be used for 20mm WWII.
I am a firm believer that if done right smaller scales in buildings and terrain does work.
With figures as we all know very few figure manufactures products match exactly, I use different figures by basing figures at different heights on the same base. For example when gaming WWII Valiant figures are bigger in size that Revell, so I do not mix them in the same companies / battalions but they work ok on a table together.
19/06/2015 at 15:59 #26356Norm SParticipantThat is a match-up that I have been thinking about lately. Does it work for you?
19/06/2015 at 16:06 #26357willzParticipantOnly finished the buildings about an hour ago Norm, will take some photos when I have done the bases. However I think it works.
The theory behind the smaller scale concept is that buildings take up more room than the figures, so one or two buildings are used to represent a village town, as we use figure scales 20 to 1, 30 to 1, 50 to 1. I never hear anybody saying that a building is a scale of 33 to 1 or whatever and don’t lets get into the height debate.
19/06/2015 at 16:39 #26359Not Connard SageParticipantI’ve sized down buildings for years – 15mm for 25/28mm, 10mm for 15mm.
A peasant’s hovel that is longer than an infantry battalion looks a bit silly, and given the ground scale of most rules, a 28mm cottage has the footprint of a large village when used with 28mm figures. A 15mm cottage with 28mm figures only has the footprint of a hamlet…
It’s not so noticeable with 6mm figures, so I use 6mm buildings with them. I never claimed to be consistent
Obvious contrarian and passive aggressive old prat, who is taken far too seriously by some and not seriously enough by others.
19/06/2015 at 17:26 #26360willzParticipantHere’s some WIP
19/06/2015 at 19:58 #26368Steve JohnsonParticipantFor my Black Powder games, I’ve just bought some Leven Miniatures 6mm buildings for use with my 10mm miniatures. Side-by-side they look fine on the table top. A friend uses 15mm buildings for his 28mm figures, and again they just seem to work.
19/06/2015 at 20:55 #26370Norm SParticipantWilliam, that is a lovely piece.
30/06/2015 at 05:31 #26935willzParticipantHere are some photos of finished 20mm buildings I am using for 25 / 28mm 18th century games
There are more photos here http://societyofgentlemengamers.org/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=10124
x
30/06/2015 at 06:02 #26936Norm SParticipantWonderful detail. As for plastic soldiers talking while we sleep ….. shouldn’t they be too tired
-
AuthorPosts
- You must be logged in to reply to this topic.