Home Forums Horse and Musket 18th Century In and Out of Scale

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  • #26258
    Avatar photorepiqueone
    Participant

    Carefully done, the mixing of manufacturers allows for added variety of troops, and the difference in proportions, if not extreme, allows a nice variability of human sizes and girth. This can be true even with relatively large variations if confined to specific units within an army, rather than mixed within units. An occasional fat major, or short sergeant can add real character to a unit.  It also adds a lot more choice and variety to periods that fewer companies provide figures for.

    My 25mm WSS forces have castings of infantry, cavalry, and artillery, as well as support elements from Ebor, Front Rank, Old Glory, Warfare, Reiver, Blue Moon, Dixon, and Redoubt ( in that order of numbers).

    I’ve also decided for reasons of scale and table area to use a mix of 10 and 15 mm structures, rather than 28mm!  The two scales, carefully chosen, and if kept consistent within a particular terrain element mix quite well, and allow the structures to be closer to matching actual ground scale, than when matching the figure scales.  They also store more readily, and do not appear too incongruent with the stand mounted figures.

    I’m experimenting with a Vauban Fort from Total Battle Miniatures in 15mm using 18mm figures and guns on the walls, the theory being “forced perspective” (they would look smaller at a distance from a besieging army) with the besiegers being my regular 28mm troops.

    I think mixing scales of terrain and figures, as well as manufacturers, allows for some creative battle staging, and the eye, and gamer’s perceptions, adapt quickly to any discrepancies. Even photos of battles using these scale-flexible techniques look every bit as good as those with a fixed terrain or figure scale.

    It also means that one set of 10-15 mm structures can be used with any scale from 10-28mm!   ( if I had my major armies in 15mm, and never played 28s, I might opt for 6mm terrain that could be used from 6-15mm.)

    Hills, trees, and walls can literally be of any scale vis a vis the figures.

    Anybody else using flexible scales?

    For more see:  http://www.repiquerules.com/page2/files/tag-wargames-terrain.html

     

     

    #26261
    Avatar photokyoteblue
    Participant

    I only game in 15mm any more so that is what all my terrain is. Shrug, works for me.

    #26263
    Avatar photoNorm S
    Participant

    I know that some players recommend dropping down to the next scale for terrain. A lot of the time it doesn’t seem to matter, unless you are close up and looking at doorways etc, but I think overall the brain is easily tricked into accepting the smaller terrain.

    #26355
    Avatar photowillz
    Participant

    I have just built 4 x 1/72 18th century buildings by Faller to use for my 25/28mm games, also they will be used for 20mm WWII.

    I am a firm believer that if done right smaller scales in buildings and terrain does work.

    With figures as we all know very few figure manufactures products match exactly, I use different figures by basing figures at different heights on the same base.  For example when gaming WWII Valiant figures are bigger in size that Revell, so I do not mix them in the same companies / battalions  but they work ok on a table together.

    #26356
    Avatar photoNorm S
    Participant

    That is a match-up that I have been thinking about lately. Does it work for you?

    #26357
    Avatar photowillz
    Participant

    Only finished the buildings about an hour ago Norm, will take some photos when I have done the bases.  However I think it works.

    The theory behind the smaller scale concept is that buildings take up more room than the figures, so one or two buildings are used to represent a village town, as we use figure scales 20 to 1, 30 to 1, 50 to 1.  I never hear anybody saying that a building is a scale of 33 to 1 or whatever and don’t lets get into the height debate.

    #26359
    Avatar photoNot Connard Sage
    Participant

    I’ve sized down buildings for years – 15mm for 25/28mm, 10mm for 15mm.

    A peasant’s hovel that is longer than an infantry battalion looks a bit silly, and given the ground scale of most rules, a 28mm cottage has the footprint of a large village when used with 28mm figures. A 15mm cottage with 28mm figures only has the footprint of a hamlet…

    It’s not so noticeable with 6mm figures, so I use 6mm buildings with them. I never claimed to be consistent 

     

     

     

    Obvious contrarian and passive aggressive old prat, who is taken far too seriously by some and not seriously enough by others.

    #26360
    Avatar photowillz
    Participant

    Here’s some WIP

    #26368
    Avatar photoSteve Johnson
    Participant

    For my Black Powder games, I’ve just bought some Leven Miniatures 6mm buildings for use with my 10mm miniatures. Side-by-side they look fine on the table top. A friend uses 15mm buildings for his 28mm figures, and again they just seem to work.

    #26370
    Avatar photoNorm S
    Participant

    William, that is a lovely piece.

    #26935
    Avatar photowillz
    Participant

    Here are some photos of finished 20mm buildings I am using for 25 / 28mm 18th century games

    There are more photos here  http://societyofgentlemengamers.org/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=10124

    x

    #26936
    Avatar photoNorm S
    Participant

    Wonderful detail. As for plastic soldiers talking while we sleep ….. shouldn’t they be too tired

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