[trenchfoot]

Hi Geof, a while back I did a rough guide to using texture skins on foam board. I forgot I previously posted this church as an intact building. the rubble is simply pollyfiller and cat litter with a few washes and highlighted

[trenchfoot]

I would try for a slight shade darker than the colour of the mat they are played on. If the felt is one particular colour try attaching some scatter to help the patch blend to the surrounding terrain while standing out enough to denote its purpose on the table.

[trenchfoot]

That is seriously beautiful workmanship. Making wargames terrain and scenery need not be expensive if you can see the potential in everyday items. Well done.

 

[trenchfoot]

Lovely to see figures of my local regiment (DLI), it’s a shame they closed the museum. Out of interest they had a carrier on display which I believe is now housed at the National Railway Museum in Shildon.

 

[trenchfoot]

I absolutely loved SL when I was younger and if I remember correctly either half of board 1 was weighted for a German win (factory half) and a Russian win for The Guards Counter Attack and when combined as a whole scenario it was a good old slogging match. The Factory half would be a very interesting game in miniature, especially with flamethrowers, smoke and demo charges. Out of interest here is an image I found http://depotdelaguerre.com/EN/1000th/1000th.htm . Your board is beautifully done, I would love to play again.

[trenchfoot]

Awesome, the faces actually look eastern european

 

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Hi Darkest Star, they will be four individual pieces with hedges around the perimeter of a field. Each piece will be movable to line up opposite or alongside each other, the height forming a ridgeline or a sunken road area…that’s the intention.

Kyoteblue, my intention is to coat the edges with brown acrylic caulk and then to sparsely flock so the brown shows through in areas as earth. I’m undecided whether to do the same on top (the field area) or stick the felt on.

[trenchfoot]

Thomaston, i think the format is a default PNG on PowerPoint. The recessed doors and windows can be done using the shadow tool in Powerpoint or cut out the windows and use that as a template on your foamboard, then cut the window shape and stick the window image on the inside of the building. my preference is to cut through the paper lining the foamboard and use a wooden stamp to flatten the foam within the window shape and then stick your window image on top.

[trenchfoot]

Thomaston, I tried it on a normal home printer and the print lost definition. A local printer in town printed copies quite cheaply on good quality paper and they came out like photographs. By the way i used PVA to stick them to the foamboard, the windows can be recessed too for extra effect.

 

[trenchfoot]

A good source are the 17th and 18th century classical art paintings, however the subject material is usually Greek/Roman ruins. Search on Google images “classical ruins painting” or “classical buildings paintings”. I’m sure there could be some inspiration from these especially as the artists inspiration often came from ruins they often visited during their tours of Italy.

hope this helps

[trenchfoot]

10 minutes to make. Woodfibre laminate floor underlay mixed with PVA and water to form a mache.

[trenchfoot]

Hi Noel, if you are in the UK near a Range store, have a look at my post,  it could be what you are looking for

 

[trenchfoot]

Hello, I made roads (15mm scale) using brown caulk on plasterers tape fixed to a bin liner. The tape is like a gauze and is adhesive, then spread the caulk in a thin layer over the top. Looking at your roads they may be too thick, also it may help making the roads in the middle of a small mat to overlay on your terrain board with fields or grassland either side of the road. My previous post shows my mats which are approx. 16″ square and the roads and junctions all link up.

 

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Thank you for the feedback. The hills were cut to use as hills coming in from the mat edge or as a whole feature running the width of the mat, I have another WIP and will add photos when I finish, hopefully as a whole battle mat complete with buildings, hedges and fields. It is indeed papier mache and becomes hard as iron when mixed with PVA and then coated with PVA and acrylic paint for the soil colour.

 

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