[paintpig]

I am an historical miniature gamer because I love history and this is just another activity which I learn more about it. I wish I had a degree

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[paintpig]

When can I move in?

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[paintpig]

irishserb wrote:

It occurred to me that my post above might be a little misleading. I mention that I’ve seen gamer snobbery in many forms, which might seem like I’m suggesting that it is a frequent thing. That hasn’t been the case. I find it to be a small minority within the hobby. Every now and then it pops up, but not often. I also think that over the years, the frequency of it has diminished. My hobby community is tremendously larger now, than in the 1980s, but I see it less often now.

I certainly agree with your observation Herb, my gamer circle is much increased over the last 30+ years, from good friends to casual internet/forum acquaintances, and the elitist element of that circle seems to be much smaller. Sure there is the odd one or two that pontificate over much but I find that this is more their nature in general and very few subjects, even outside of gaming, are beneath their sharing wise words to set us aright.

Lots of theirs there hope they’re used correctly… not making sense is a talent I possess in abundance

Anyways, as an afterthought Mike, maybe period, painting, rules or figure (brand) snobbery might still be a thing….. although I think it is more often than not lighthearted/piss take rather than a serious put down?

 

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[paintpig]

Angel Barracks wrote:

paintpig wrote:

Opinionated snobbery comes with the territory in all sorts of hobbies. I couldn’t give a fig about what they game, how they game or why…… people play war games, they derive enjoyment out of it doing it their way, let it be they sang.

I agree, which is why I was wondering about cross-genre/period elitism and snobbery, not if a game is a simulation or realistic. Just if people have had to endure other fellow gamers looking down on them as they play what is classed as fantasy (non historical.)

Dont play sci-fant myself so cant answer from that perspective although I have played with some pretty opinionated people on the subject you pose however that was some 25 odd years ago. Nice chaps but they had no time for the likes of GW and it’s ilk (it wasn’t a branding issue back then), really cannot recall much snobbery from historical gamers since those days, the lines are so blurred between fantasy-scifi-historical fact in popular culture (and war gaming) nowadays it would have to be a very particular species of Gaming Luddite that still harboured a them and us mentality….. I haven’t encountered one for many years Mike, I have no doubt they likely exist in the damp dark places, I suggest they best be left alone, gawd knows what spores they carry.

 

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[paintpig]

Personally I like war gaming because I enjoy history ‘n stuff, I enjoy history ‘n stuff because I like war gaming…. how does that work?

Opinionated snobbery comes with the territory in all sorts of hobbies. I couldn’t give a fig about what they game, how they game or why…… people play war games, they derive enjoyment out of it doing it their way, let it be they sang.

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[paintpig]

Lovely Patrice. Layout of the table is superb as are your little men, pity the Viking leader found his horse to late. Was he horse de combat?

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[paintpig]

I keep my own figures very simple as in the above, commission then I go overboard with 5-7 layers, glazes etc etc.

Keep the base coat flesh a fairly light tone, the flesh wash stage can be used to compensate if you think it is still too light after the first pass.

So for example if I use a light fair skin base coat and then make the “flesh wash” pass and think it is too light I will go ahead and do the first highlight  using the base, put in the cheek rose and lips ( exactly as described above) .  But before I go on to the second highlight I make an additional wash pass then go on to do the second highlight but this time using the base without lightening it up a notch.

Cost in time is a second pass of flesh wash between the first and second highlight, too easy!

Just muck around with the flesh paint and washes you have available until you have the right combo, it will work!

 

Used three wash passes with highlighting after each with the original basecoat, reduced the area of the highlighting on each stage. Final highlight was base coat with a tiny point of ivory as a final touch

 

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[paintpig]

Why does that mop look so surly, sort of like the Predator on a bad hair day.

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[paintpig]

Sane Max wrote:

<contrite look icon>

I should think so!

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[paintpig]

I wish my friends had 16yo daughters

My good wife thinks it is a hobby and people have hobbies and that is about it, she is keen on playing SAGA and I do paint her the odd sexy chick and/or ripped barbarian figures in little vignettes (ooooer missus). She does have to pull me up (I said up), when the spending gets out of hand but that is very likely a good thing.

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[paintpig]

So had some time to touch up the above while waiting for my green stuff to play nice tonight. I mixed in a bit more of the Bleached Bone into the Elf Flesh (seemed to work better and should have done the first time) to re high light the cheek bones, top lip and a nice little feature at the corner of the mouth, fixed up the bottom lip and dabbed a tiny bit of black wash into the eye sockets, a couple of minutes work.

If I was stuck using Elf Flesh another pass with the Ogryn Flesh wash thinned down would be the go for me, just to bring some warmth back into the face, it is a weird yellow flesh tone but hey I don’t know much about Elves.

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[paintpig]

Sounds like a plan Kyote, when your finished mucking around in the west take a look at Palestine, a more mobile war and from experience great fun to game and campaign.

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[paintpig]

Here you go Rod, did it real quick without touch ups to show how basic my Table Top face painting is, the Pig Method

Face Painting: quick and dirty

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[paintpig]

Mike wrote:

Very cool, also cool that the wood is not bright brown. Do you have a money shot of all these on the table?

Wood is only brown until it turns grey, people tend not to notice. We remember what we learned as little kids with colouring-in pencils and ignore what we see everyday, not relevant but fascinating all the same.

Another fine piece of kit Malc. If you have the notion, I would love to see some of the Boxer-Legation scenery again ol’boy, just thinking of it the other day with my card, balsa and glue laid out on the table

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[paintpig]

Hoots mon I cannea ken snails for me sup. Nice one George

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[paintpig]

Angel Barracks wrote:

Have you ever just gotten so fed up with a project that you jacked it in? 

Let me count the times, I just need to slip off my shoes!

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[paintpig]

Always have found this approach infinitely  for large figure ratios. For example for 28/25mm where one figure might equal anything from ten to sixty combatants (or civilians what have you) I personally would use 20mm buildings. For the most part it doesn’t affect the feel or look of the table top, even where a figure is adjacent to a doorway it doesn’t automatically out of place, looks a bit odd in a photo but that is to be expected when capturing/studying the moment. We are big fans of the relatively cheap card buildings in this case and down (or up) scaling is a simple exercise before printing.

In games where one figure represents one combatant then the scale for buildings and figures is best visually, naturally, and I can use my resin and scratch built.

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[paintpig]

Rod Robertson wrote:

Paintpig:

Those are lovely Norman foot and knights you have painted there. I really like the skin tones and shadowing that you have created on the faces. Beautiful work that, so well done. Also as others have pointed out fine shields and armour/helmets. Thank you for posting these and please post more. I can learn a lot from studying your work.

Cheers Rod, not so brilliant but they will do. I didn’t have any contemporaries to learn painting from but I did study what I saw in the magazines (MW and Mil Mod in those days) and although I didn’t know exactly how the painters did it I had the images engraved in my mind, so when I lucked across something that gave the right outcome I knew straight away what was going on, so I heartily recommend your approach. Unfortunately I still experiment every time I sit down to paint which slows me down and is a bit of a pain, but I just cant help myself.

The faces here are a very basic technique which gives a good outcome without tons of layering or jiggery pokery, it really is dead simple. I will take some photos next time and try and write a short tute to accompany them.

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[paintpig]

Lagartija Mike wrote:

Great work on the shield and helms! Did you ever finish your Great Heathen Army?

Ongoing, I have a shed load of Normans (2nd hand), I’m painting these up to sell so I have some jingle in my pocket (dont do much commission work any more). There are always a handful of Saxons on the edge of the table for a quick daub while waiting for paint to dry on the Norman thuggery.

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[paintpig]

Cheers chaps, it is about time I posted up some of the work that is pestering my painting table.

 

kyoteblue wrote:

Wrong size/scale for me, but damn fine painting !!!

No 15th Guards Motorized dismounted Norman Knights Division in 15mm?

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[paintpig]

I’m in, well I have a wordpress blog so wasn’t much effort

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[paintpig]

Wonderful, we dont need no stink’n arty

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[paintpig]

Good luck with your venture

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[paintpig]

Cheap and bloody effective looking bugs, nice work Allen I’m well impressed.

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[paintpig]

Well that was a visual feast that went down extremely well. Beautiful. And I love “my version of events” –

And he’s sticking to it come hell or high water, didn’t spot Jude Law anywhere?

Marvelous post ol’boy, top notch gaming.

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[paintpig]

Oh, so now that WGA has pinned down your smartphone IP address your going to skip the country, jolly unsporting of you old bean.

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[paintpig]

That’s weird, takes you to the blog which is what the link is for, the link doesn’t specify a page. It could be because I put the address into the text, I’ll put it stand alone below. Anyway the “plug logo” is in the top left corner of my blog. Simple enough to make this direct to TWW from the blogger layout page, easy peasy. I had to change the layout of the TWW logo to fit in the margin column so just lift the jpg from my blog if you want to add it to yours.

 

http://paintpigdave.blogspot.com.au/

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[paintpig]

What, for sub par…. I mean sub 25mm?

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[paintpig]

I’m tempted to hit the KS button a mix between board game, turn based tactical video game and Impetus….. my three favourite time wasting past times. Our group spends a couple of months a year ditching mini’s for board games so I might pick up a copy of ONUS.

Sorry Thaddeus,  apparently I’m not a dedicated bored gamer  …..I could forgo the temptation to be an arsehole

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[paintpig]

Any minute now Jozis is going to log on and have a WTF moment and go running back …….   Day ist crazee offa dair, crazee like der craquer biskit!

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[paintpig]

Bastard

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[paintpig]

Not Connard Sage wrote:

You’re not playing toy soldiers properly

I’ve got to meme up that photo NCS, we’re going to wear out the pipe smok’n baby

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[paintpig]

Mike wrote:

Thanks for posting. I think the forum software TWW uses is on many work blacklists, and as such quite a few people at work can’t access TWW. TMP for example does not have ‘recognised*’ forum software so escapes the block list. Or so I am told by an IT person… Anywho, please share your games

??P hasn’t been recognised as a wargame forum for ages Mike

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[paintpig]

Welcome Jozis, your not alone in your observation….. not by a long shot, I might pull up a settle and have a white russian with you if’n you dont mind. Perhaps we can talk playing with our toy soldiers.

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[paintpig]

Very nice, does he need a pick up from the airport…

 

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[paintpig]

malc johnston wrote:

MDF or Chipboard, but brace it underneath with wooden battens for support and strength, stop it from bowing, good luck with it.

Wot ‘e said, do remember to make sure the bracing is narrow side horizontal (against the chipboard) deep side vertical. It sounds obvious but my diy challenged mates have all fitted the bracing the wrong way round so basically reduced the effectiveness. If you can stretch the readies plump for 16 or 19mm ply, form ply has one decent surface and one rough so comes in cheaper than marine ply.

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[paintpig]

@ Katie I was going to say microspheres aren’t much chop being a pretty dull colour but I saw you were using white paint. I thought of fumed glass which is brilliant white but quite dangerous if inhaled, perfectly safe once mixed in any liquid. I’ll try the micro spheres next time I’m in a position to borrow some.

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[paintpig]

Well with all that to choose from Barks it sounds like your away.

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[paintpig]

Ebor figures are the ducks guts, quite delightful. They will match FR in height but due to the dwarvish proportions (wide as they are high) of FR they will look somewhat malnutritioned (it’s a word), so heft would be the thing to look out for.

Uniforms change pretty much continuously during the century at a pinch they will do for the WAS, but who cares? Your toys your games, if you had to buy a separate army for each time the French changed cut, buttons and facing you would need to reinforce the flooring, same goes for most other nations.

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[paintpig]

Carb soda with white glue rings a bell, white tile corking or gap filler would be my choice. Depends on how easily they can be applied for a particular situation, I think the (acrylic) gap filler should be easy enough for terrain if your dabbing a bit on the troops or vehicles then go for the carb (baking) soda.

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