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I really enjoyed reading your report, thanks for sharing.
I agree with Ootkust – non-skirmish rules are easily adapted/extrapolated to the level required. Combine with house rules if preferred, add to that well thought out scenarios and you will be fine. Hence my list. These rules can be adapted.
Battle Command (new set by Brent Oman – derived from Picquet)
Altar Of Freedom
Firebell In the Night
Guns At Gettysburg
Long Road South
A House Divided
Polemos ACW (from Baccus)
Apologies for the delay in coming back to you – I was on me ‘olidays. You were right to think it didn’t seem quite right – there was meant to be the mounted part in the rules.
I do indeed have Caucasian cavalry from Irregular Miniatures Caucasian range. There are some ready to be primed on the painting desk as I type this.
so Andrew is correct. There is a single pool of points for the force that is depleted rather than one pool per unit. So Fatigue would occur quickly. However what I have forgotten to include are cavalry rules. The Murids were master horsemen. Therefore, moving on horseback would cost 0 fatigue points. It’s only once they dismount.
It was a conscious choice. Murids historically always tried to keep the Russians at a distance. Think of them as light dragoons. Crack shots but brittle and avoided as much as possible closing with the Russians. The Murids did not fight from horseback I.e cavalry charges, they always dismounted to fight. Typically the Russians were master bayoneteers and once they were able to close with the Murids, would overwhelm them rather quickly. Therefore, once dismounted, the Murids would typically not move any closer to the Russians. This what I have tried to reflect. However, I think adding a rule like giving ground through a withdrawal movement will only cost 1 point of fatigue per turn regardless of how many groups moved. Movement towards the enemy is charged at 1 point per unit moving in a turn.
Thanns gif the feedback and discussion.
Hi Tony – thanks very much. The Russians are indeed from Irregular’s Crimean War range. I hope it goes well for you. Let us know how you get on. I find doing 10 at a time fairly bearable and you still feel like you have achieved something and it keeps you wanting to get the rest done.
The Murid artillery is complete. New post up on the blog.
An excellent and well thought out post. I am now following.
Kallistra are large 12mm scale and don’t blend well with Pendraken historicals. Though I don’t have any Pendraken fantasy figures to compare the two.
How do you paint your cream Eggs? New post up on the blog.
Yeah, I am definitely going to get Martinstaadt now, probably next month as I have other purchases that I would like (need for wargaming – not really a need but it is to me!) to make.
A review of Wargaming Campaigns by Henry Hyde now up on the blog.
Thanks Andrew – I am sure I’ve got some tufts that might be appropriate somewhere – just need to dig them out.
I am tempted to do a couple of artillery units, then a couple of cavalry units, then the C-in-C diorama base. The I’ve got one small army ready to field and I can get a small force of Russians done then and begin playing the campaign.
160 Murid musketeers now based and on the blog.
Thanks Andrew. The rules are slowly coming together in a coherent first draft after jotting down a lot of ideas in a Word document.
160 musketeers ready for basing. New post up on the blog.
Ha ha thanks Jim 😜
Ha ha its a great book – I hope you enjoy it as much as I did! Its not my fault if you end up with a load of Murids and Russians! Although if you buy from Irregular tell them its thanks to me 😉
New post up on the blog.
Thanks. Yes, I use Vallejo surface primer, which is great for plastic model kits, a bit less great for metal figures. I have an airbrush, but rather than airbrush the primer, which doesn’t work very well on the metal as it has to be quite thin to go through the airbrush, I brushed it on in two coats. The figure isn’t touched until the painting is finished. Mostly I use Coat D’arms paints and a few Foundry paints. These are decent thick paints and coat nicely on the whole, despite the untrustworthy paints reviews on YouTube of Coat D’arms paints. The figures in the photos are pre-varnish – they will soon receive a single coat of Vallejo Matte Varnish to finish. I have used this method a lot, on various scales of figures, with no signs of paint wear.
On my new project to paint two smallish forces for Imperial Russias war in the Caucasus against the Murids led by the Lion of Daghestan that occupied the highlands of the Daghestan and Chechnyan regions.
New post up on the blog that has a travel video showing what a mountain top settlement in the region looks like.
New post up on the blog. Making good progress.
Thanks Tony! It remains to be seen if they will stand. Traditionally they did, very well, as long as the odds were in their favour!
<p style=”text-align: left;”>Thirty more Murids painted up so far this week.
Ha ha John Carter of Mars springs to mind when you said sci-fi add on!
Thanks ☺️ yeah, we’ll see how it goes ha ha.
Looks awesome. Which rules do you prefer overall?
Thanks Tony. Yeah I’m trying formalise the rules so that you just visually check how the army is doing overall by the number of troops you have of each main colour left on the table.
yeah Irregular Miniatures do tend to paint up really nicely – I’m pleased with how they have cons out for a relatively quick paint job.
Thanks y’all. Much appreciated. I’ll hopefully get another post done over the weekend. First unit painted up tonight.
Awesome – the intention was to make it look as weird and creepy as possible. Thankyou for your comments!
These are absolutely amazing. Hats off to you!
It seems to work for me 🤔
I use Vallejo surface primer – no problems on any of the materials mentioned.