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  • in reply to: Modular Terrain for 3mm/2mm Scale Gaming #18211

    Can you give us a link where you got that base, Mathieu? I can’t seem to find it on the Spartan Games site.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: Modular Terrain for 3mm/2mm Scale Gaming #18209

    Arrrrrgh! Must have!

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    Javelin says he is sendingg me some of his new metal proofs tompaint up, so we might be getting stuff in metal soon. Still, supporting him now is a good idea.

    The Falchion stuff loks pretty good and everytime I have painted up Javelin’s stuff it has come out much nicer than I would have thought. The white strong and flexible material painted up fine, but I’d still go for the detailed material on these.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    A Revolutionary Army of Salvation column rolls across the high outback on Smade’s World, striking towards Organ Pipe Pass and the lowlands.

     

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    Thanks for the compliments, folks. Actually, Mathieu, I started thinking about my fictional planet of Smade’s World after seeing Restepro, so techno-Khorengal isn’t far off the mark.

    And Mike, you’re correct: terrain has to catch the eye in 3mm, but without completely drowning out the figures. I’m still working on getting the best balance here.

    The best thing about 3mm is that it is a “bonus” scale: you can get into it without distracting too much time, energy and money from other projects. 100 dollars will get you two immense armies or four smaller ones. You can store them all in a couple of cigar boxes with a couple others for terrain and stuff the whole kit in a backpack.

    I wouldn´t be able to play miniature games if I had to use other scales (although skirmishing in 6mm is increasingly a possibilty). Other people get this scale essentially for free, however.

    It thus allows you to do projects you wouldn´t do normally. Have you always wanted to do sci-fi, but couldn´t stand the thought of spending the cash on something you´ll only play now and again? 3mm is the answer. I’m finally getting into Napoleonic in the same way. I always wanted to play Napoleonics, but I couldn´t stomach the idea of spending boatloads of cash and years of my life painting only to have some numpty criticize the colors of the buttons on my figs. 3mm allows me to avoid all of that.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: Ever Played Blitzkrieg Commander? #18101

    That’s the beauty of 3mm! O8’s stuff is just gorgeous: much more detailed than 2mm and almost as detailed as 6mm. And a 3×2 playing space will do you fine.

    Here’s a link to a new topic I just started, showing some of my CWC and FWC games in 3mm, played on a variety of 3×2 and 2×2 spaces. I’ve started a new topic, because other people might be interested:

    http://www.thewargameswebsite.com/forums/topic/playing-future-war-blitzkrieg-cold-war-commander-in-3mm/

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: Ever Played Blitzkrieg Commander? #18068

    Here´s a Future War Commander AAR I did several years ago…

    http://leadnobleed.blogspot.com.br/2009/11/hellzapoppin-valley-future-war.html

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: Ever Played Blitzkrieg Commander? #17850

    In fact, if you don’t like the series’ buckets of dice mechanism for combat, you can fairly easily switch in any combat resolution procedure you like. I have even used Ogre/GEVs combat mechanisc with the Commander series’ everything else.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: Ever Played Blitzkrieg Commander? #17849

    Yep. Know one ruleset and you have a handle on them all.

    For FWC, I do away with HQs entirely for high tech forces. They get as many activations as they want, presuming a great communications net.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: Ever Played Blitzkrieg Commander? #17797

    I tend to play with half company stands and I find that works very well in the “suspension of disbelief” department when it comes to accumulating hits.

    Again, if you want to add more color, here’s a third option: give units morale ranging up to 10 for elite units. Throw a die at the end of the turn, and subtract the difference between the dr and morale in hits.

    It is a very easy system to tweak.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: Ever Played Blitzkrieg Commander? #17792

    Well, one can certainly make a case that a large swarm of Stuarts would unnerve a Tiger platoon. The cumulative hits thing is no show stopper.

    In game terms, however, what it does is push units to concentrate fire in hopes of eliminating an enemy unit before it “resets”.

    An easy way around that is to force units to fire on the closest, most appropriate target.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: Ever Played Blitzkrieg Commander? #17773

    A very easy rule to get around the accumulatibe hits thing, without slowing stuff down too much is this:

    At the end of your turn, roll against the. Number of hits on the unit. If you roll equal,or greater, remove all hits. If less, remove one hit.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: Ever Played Blitzkrieg Commander? #17768

    The Commander series is great fun and a worthwhile game to own. I particularly like it for solo play, as the command mechanism makes for unpredictable games and gives a wonderful narrative to play.

    In one game of Future Commander I played some years ago, for example, a mecha squadron was ordered to go over a ridge and attack an enemy position. As they crested the ridge, however, they got hit with an incredibly accurate volley of reaction fire, taking out half the mechas. They then rolled a fumble: 12. The failure table had them scurrying right back across the ridge. You could just see how it played out in “real life”: an attack into unexpectedky strong fire causes chaos and confusion. With the Captain down, a new lieutentant panics and orders  everyone to fall back. The ensuing retreat probably saves the company, but in the post battle analysis, the young lt. is courtmartialed for disobeying orders and perhaps even cowardice in the face of the enemy…

    The game is not for everyone, though. Because of luck-based activation, the improbable can happen, as Mike points out. That happens in real life too, so it doesn’t bother me. But it will some.

    More problematic, to me, is that the activation system means that multiplayer games take longer to play. Also, the cumulative hits in combat thing is annoying because A) you can rarely kill a unit outright and B) this means that a pack of Stuarts, say, can scrub down a Tiger.

    But the “recover all hits at the end of the turn” thing is easy to fix. Simply give your units a morale roll they need to make to recover.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: My Painted MRR (BMP) for 5Core Brigade Commander #17220

    I, too wouldn´t worry about O8. The lines are already very complete. Plus Khurasan is looking to do modern 3mm as well. Were O8 to somehow go belly-up, I´m sure someone would fill this niche rapidly!

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: Hold Until Relieved AAR #16854

    Nice AAR, but I have to admit, every time I see this game’s title, I append the following subtitle: “Waiting for a portajohn at Carnaval”.]

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: Modular Terrain for 3mm/2mm Scale Gaming #16060

    Save those scurrilous comments for Frothers, Mike. 😉

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: Modular Terrain for 3mm/2mm Scale Gaming #16053

    I think the roads look fine. I go for a narrower, whiter look myself, but that’s just personal taste. What is nice with your set up is that you will be able to use it for 6mm and even 10mm. Mine is restricted to 3mm and I am beginning to see the problems with that.

     

    You might want to make the roads a shade or two lighter, however.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: Outer colonies and other things #16009

    Oh baby, oh boy!

    Those are some kick-ass Marines, ‘Lex!

    How did you get that intense red? Or is that just fiddling around with photo software?

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: Modular Terrain for 3mm/2mm Scale Gaming #16007

    Actually, it IS pretty easy, Norm.

    I bought my first kit and was making really nice looking terrain that weekend.

    The most complicated part of it is getting your head around the cuts you need to make for geomorphic hills and rivers. But anyone who took industrial arts in middle school can manage that. GHQ gives you some very nice and clear instructions to follow, too.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: 3mm Sarissa Battle Armor and Light Missile Tank #15967

    They are that O8 German anti-tank vehicle from the 19802. The one built on old jagdpanzer hulls?

    I just added a greeblie-decorated piece of plastic beam in the back, as a launcher.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: Just pulled the trigger on 3mm #15872

     

    Well, I have tried pretty much everything, starting with precut 1mm plastic bases, moving to steel washers and then steel precut bases, then do-it-yourself plastic bases, moving back to painted (but not flocked) pre-made plastic bases before finally settling on my 1.5 mm posterboard scheme, which I love.

    Here are its pluses.

    1) Unlike steel and plastic, it takes and holds paint marvelously well and doesn’t chip, ever.

    2) It is much, much cheaper than pre-made bases.

    3) It is very light.

    4) It can be easily cut to any size and shape which you may desire.

    5) It can be easily picked up without touching the miniature.

    6) Unlike steel, it doesn’t rust.

    Its only drawback, as far as I can see, is that it isn’t magnetic. But that’s not an issue because 3mm is so small and light. Pack your figs in a plano box, stuff some foam above it, and Bobbie’s yer mamma’s bubba. Another potential benefit of steel bases is that they give some heft to 3mm figs. But I have never found that to be a problem.

    Note that my bases are, at most, 3omm x 15mm. Most are 20mm x 12,5mm. There is thus little chance they will warp. If you make 3 inch x 3 inch bases with posterboard, that might not be true. I would probably use plastic or steel in that case.

    Originally, I thought 1.5mm might be too thick for this scale, but I think it actually looks BETTER than thin metal because it further helps delineate the miniature on the board.

    The trick is to paint the base a dark soil color that combines with the backing color of your mat or terrain scheme. Then you flock a lighter color and paint your minis to contrast with the flock.

    For my sci-fi collection and 3mm Napoleonics, I paint the bases terracotta swirled when still wet with papaya. Then I partially flock the base with yellow flocking and — very sparsely — place a few clumps of light green corse flock as bushes, here and there. For the Napoleonics, I use this to distinguish battalions (i.e. First battalion stands get one big clump, second battalion gets two smaller, etc).

    I am entirely pleased with this scheme, which is more than I can say for they others.

    For woodlands/green/temperate, I think I’d go chocolate paint, swirled with tan, light green flocking and dark green bushes.

    Three things I can’t stress enough, however:

    1) Paint light and bright (never use black as a base — mid grey at most).

    2) Flock and base in contrast to your paint scheme.

    3) Use flocking sparingly! Too much or too many types and your figures will be lost in the basing noise.

    My favorite and most successfully based figures so far are my People’s Revolutionary Army figs, which are light green on yellow and terracotta bases. IMHO, these look a treat on the table:

     

    When doing moderns or WWII,  you obviously can’t go the “Circus wagon” route (as PhD Leadhead uncharitably calls it. You can and should, however, paint twice as light as you think you should. For olive green, I’d base white and WASH olive. This is the easy way to bring out the details on O8’s fantastic figs.

    Another way to go is to paint darker, but neon highlight. So you paint an olive green, but highlight the edges two shades lighter and yellower. This takes patience and a steady hand or it looks crap. Washing over white and dot and slashing details is the best way to go if you’re in a hurry, IMHO.

    If you are beginning, buy one pack extra of your favorite vehicle and practice on it until you get the scheme and touch you like. It’s cheap and will save you a lot of grief later. Please trust my experience on this one.

    If you fuck up, chant this mantra: “It’s only 3mm. A pack costs half of what one 28mm figure does. Fuck it.” Strip ’em or, hell, just toss them or give them to children to play with and start over.

     

     

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: Small scale basing, to base or not to base? #15875

    Well, I have tried pretty much everything, starting with precut 1mm plastic bases, moving to steel washers and then steel precut bases, then do-it-yourself plastic bases, moving back to painted (but not flocked) pre-made plastic bases before finally settling on my 1.5 mm posterboard scheme, which I love.

    Here are its pluses.

    1) Unlike steel and plastic, it takes and holds paint marvelously well and doesn’t chip, ever.

    2) It is much, much cheaper than pre-made bases.

    3) It is very light.

    4) It can be easily cut to any size and shape which you may desire.

    5) It can be easily picked up without touching the miniature.

    6) Unlike steel, it doesn’t rust.

    Its only drawback, as far as I can see, is that it isn’t magnetic. But that’s not an issue because 3mm is so small and light. Pack your figs in a plano box, stuff some foam above it, and Bobbie’s yer mamma’s bubba. Another potential benefit of steel bases is that they give some heft to 3mm figs. But I have never found that to be a problem.

    Note that my bases are, at most, 3omm x 15mm. Most are 20mm x 12,5mm. There is thus little chance they will warp. If you make 3 inch x 3 inch bases with posterboard, that might not be true. I would probably use plastic or steel in that case.

    Originally, I thought 1.5mm might be too thick for this scale, but I think it actually looks BETTER than thin metal because it further helps delineate the miniature on the board.

    The trick is to paint the base a dark soil color that combines with the backing color of your mat or terrain scheme. Then you flock a lighter color and paint your minis to contrast with the flock.

    For my sci-fi collection and 3mm Napoleonics, I paint the bases terracotta swirled when still wet with papaya. Then I partially flock the base with yellow flocking and — very sparsely — place a few clumps of light green corse flock as bushes, here and there. For the Napoleonics, I use this to distinguish battalions (i.e. First battalion stands get one big clump, second battalion gets two smaller, etc).

    I am entirely pleased with this scheme, which is more than I can say for they others.

    For woodlands/green/temperate, I think I’d go chocolate paint, swirled with tan, light green flocking and dark green bushes.

    Three things I can’t stress enough, however:

    1) Paint light and bright (never use black as a base — mid grey at most).

    2) Flock and base in contrast to your paint scheme.

    3) Use flocking sparingly! Too much or too many types and your figures will be lost in the basing noise.

    My favorite and most successfully based figures so far are my People’s Revolutionary Army figs, which are light green on yellow and terracotta bases. IMHO, these look a treat on the table:

    When doing moderns or WWII,  you obviously can’t go the “Circus wagon” route (as PhD Leadhead uncharitably calls it. You can and should, however, paint twice as light as you think you should. For olive green, I’d base white and WASH olive. This is the easy way to bring out the details on O8’s fantastic figs.

    Another way to go is to paint darker, but neon highlight. So you paint an olive green, but highlight the edges two shades lighter and yellower. This takes patience and a steady hand or it looks crap. Washing over white and dot and slashing details is the best way to go if you’re in a hurry, IMHO.

    If you are beginning, buy one pack extra of your favorite vehicle and practice on it until you get the scheme and touch you like. It’s cheap and will save you a lot of grief later. Please trust my experience on this one.

    If you f*** up, chant this mantra: “It’s only 3mm. A pack costs half of what one 28mm figure does. Fuck it.” Strip ’em or, hell, just toss them or give them to children to play with and start over.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: Modular Terrain for 3mm/2mm Scale Gaming #15860

    Great stuff, as always, Matt! I am really looking forward to seeing this project done!

    Meanwhile, I finished my second (and final, until I can get more Plasmablast hulls) Ogre conversion this week: a MkIIIb. I will try to get some picture up later.

    Years ago, I did Terrain Maker hexes for a 6mm sci-fi layout and found them to work just fine. If they were readily available in Brazil, I would cheerfully use them. As they are not, I went with my current artist canvas pinned to PVA backing system.

    but I, too, never had any alignment problems to speak of.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: Just pulled the trigger on 3mm #15785

    I use posterboard, Ivan, after having tried many other things. If you can afford to buy precut bases, go for it. But posterboard works very nicely, is cheap, takes paint like a charm and is very easy to work with. It also doesn’t seem to warp, but then again, I ise small bases. If you are going to be doing 3 inch bases, you might want something more rigid.

     

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: AB's 6mm sci-fi topic #15781

    I dunno yet. My inspiration would be Victorian Southern Africa, so probably RDF, Quar and Junkers would be at LEAST three different sides.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: AB's 6mm sci-fi topic #15771

    That is great stuff! Reminds me of Vaugh Bodé’s Junkwaffel. I am getting closer and closer to buying into this… I’m thinking a neo-colonial campaign with your stuff versus 6mm Quar.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: In Defence of Our Hobby #15747

    The only shocked commentary I have gotten lately is from a feminist colleague who couldn’t believe I paint little toy soldiers and game with them. How militarist and immature!

    I pointed out to her that her social circle was chock full of friends, many of them women, who were rabid football fans and that said crowd is hardly mature or sedate in their enthusiasm.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: Just pulled the trigger on 3mm #15673

    The main problem with O8 is that the figures are SO detailed that you can get lost in painting details nobody will ever see. Be careful about this: that way lies madness.

    Intense colors, light colors and basing that contrasts with your color scheme. Also, don’t use too much or too many different kinds of flock on the basing. In fact, you can get away with just painting your bases.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: In Defence of Our Hobby #15672

    Here’s a link to the essay I opened my  blog with. It is about this very topic:

    http://leadnobleed.blogspot.com.br/2009/11/10-introductory-rant-ethics-of.html

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: FiveCore Brigade Commander #15618

    Ranges seem a bit off, unless you’re using three inch wide stands. But that’s OK. I can easily cut everything by a factor of three for my own games.

    I’d also allow high tech tanks to fire harrasment up to 18 or 24 inches. I’d add only one K to high tech tanks for effective fire and one S for harassment fire.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: FiveCore Brigade Commander #15516

    Abstract the AAA. Have AAA be an HQ level attachment that’s rated as 1s or 1s 1k. Anything that flies in a turn gets shot at once. “Morale” results send it off the board for a set number of turns. Kills take it out. For helis, the shot takes place (once a turn) when it’s first spotted by an enemy unit.

    Also, air-to-air can be resolved in this fashion, with opposing assets.

    Recon can also be done in this fashion: let recon units breakdown into light stands, the way company commander currently lets infantry breakdown.  That way, your recon can fight as regular troops and deploy as a screen or recon force.

     

     

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: FiveCore Brigade Commander #15411

    Of course, there is not set frontage for a company that will work for the entire period. It depends on doctrine and tactical stance: attqcking troops mass much tighter than defenders.

    But as a general rule, I think 250 meters per inch or one millimeter per ten meters works pretty well. This will allow most gamers to base as they please and at least be in shouting distance of reality.

    Direct fire against infantry with 1k, 1s should be limited to two inches or five hundred meters. Out to four inches (or a kilometer), it should only be 1s, except for units that have a “heavy support” special ability, who will get an extra kill die. Beyond that, I’d say no direct fire attacks against infantry.

    Anti-tank fire should be 1k, 1s out to four inches. At under 2 inches, it gains an extra 1 s. At four to twelve inches, it  loses 1k. Superior gunnery special should give the attack an extra 1k at all ranges.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    So I’ve thought about it some more and to an extent, doesn’t the “What does it represent” question solve itself ? (or rather, the player solves it). At the most abstract, each infantry stand is a “unit”. Whether that unit is very specifically a company or it’s an amalgamation of force that corresponds to a company doesn’t really change the mechanics, that’s on the players end. In other words, if Jack has 5 stands and they represent 5 actual companies, and Thad has 5 stands that represent 8 actual companies (or whatever), the in-game effect is the same, right?

    Exactly. Which is why if you say it is “more or less a company”, you cover all bases. It allows you to fudge where necessary while still giving the bayonet counters their fix.

    For the record, I am deeply offended, Jack. 😉

    But anyhoo… This allows you to fudge the “roll your own”  table a bit. Bayonet counters can say “Ah hah! A battalion was in reserve!”  while guys like me can say “The units represent actual capacity, not numbers”.

    Stick a declaration to that effect in your designer’s notes and Robert’s yer daddy’s sibling.

    You c***s are going to make me buy a copy of Company Commander now, aren’t you?

    Well, Alex, your AAR just rang up a sale for Ivan! ChaCHING!

    I will read it and start tooling around with it ASAP. I have already been working on simple WWII company rules for some time, so I have an idea of what basic ranges and stuff should look like.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    Regarding the APC/infantry issue, IIRC, Spearhead just asumes that the unit adopts whatever formation is best for it as a target. So armored against small arms and shrapnel, soft against armored piercing.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    I make no claims to being an expert. But what I get out of reading military history is that most commanders at this level tend to think in terms of what’s needed to do the job versus what they have on hand.

    So yeah, Joe the brigade commander doesn’t count tanks, but he DOES (or should) have a notion of what he needs and what the units he’s ordering about have and can do. So if Captain Bob’s company is whittled down to half it’s normal size, Brigadier Joe or his immediate subordinate, battalion commander Major Steve, will attach a platoon from another company to it.

    It’s also a matter of what the relevant maneuver unit is. Armies that emulate the Germans (which would be mostly those of the West) think in terms of battalions at this scale while Pact-style armies think in terms of regiments.

    Plus, as I understand it, we want the rules to be generic enough to go from WWII to the future, so it might not be best to fix a rigid “1 stand = 1 company” scale. If you say “about one company of 10-15 vehicles”, the TO&E fetishists can happily assume it’s always a company, while the folks who are more abstract can think in terms of over all force.

    Given the way units get swapped about and used on the modern battlefield, I’m increasingly in favor of modeling TO&Es a level or two above the elements in play.

    For example, my WWII game has each stand set as a half-company of around 6-8 vehicles. Did such an element actually exist as a maneuver unit? No. It makes for better TO&E modeling at the battalion scale, however, and makes for easy modeling of mixed companies.

    It seems much more realistic, to me, to have a 1943 German tank battalion of, say, 7 tank stands, facing off against a Russian Brigade of 12 tank stands than have nine German platoons versus twenty four Russian. In other words, the battalion or regiment is treated as the TO&E organizational unit, but below that you have, basically, force markers.

     

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    Another thing: don’t make the units “companies”, per se, but company-like elements. Roughly a company. This is what I already do with my Blitkrieg and Future War Commander rules. This way, the more flexible, better equipped and better supplied and maintained armies get 3-4 stands per battalion while “mass has a quality of its own”  armies get 2 or even occasionally one stand per battalion.

    So my NATO-esque Blue Army has battalions that are 4 stands and my Pact-style Red army has 6-8 stand battalions.

    In other words, don’t try to make one stand EXACTLY one TO&E company.

    This way you get 6 stands of infantry (3 battalions) in your MRR along with 2-3 stands of tanks, depending on unit readiness and equipment and etc.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    I think you could cop an idea Spearhead if we go company-sized stands and simply have motorized-mechanized troops based with their vehicles. Don’t make it too complex!

    This could end up being the DBA of moderns if we do it right.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    This is a great AAR and I love your figs! I am now thinking of buying company commander myself.

    For my vote, make stands companies and call it Kampfgruppe Command or  Combat Command. There are very few brigade -division level hames on the marker.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: 3mm Mobile Infantry Battalion #14275

    Yeah. I like it much better than the first company`s paint scheme, which is just a tad TOO white. I’m trying to copy those nifty high-tech looking white vehicles in Dropzone Commander. I think this has come the closest so far.

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

    in reply to: 3mm Ogre Miniatures: New Project #14025

    Here’s a troop from the First Polish Lancer GEVs, placed next to a pound and a quarter for a size referent:

    We get slapped around, but we have a good time!

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