Forum Replies Created
Wow, I like how it looks so far. Personally, I wouldn’t change a thing. I would use magnets on the bottoms, to remove them from forest bases as needed, but they look amazing right now.
Thanks but I would like to know what I should do to make the central metallic part appear brown instead of … metallic 😉
Do you have some pictures of the magnets I should glue on the bottom? I am curious to know what kind of magnet I would need.
Looks very Shermany — I can’t make out the rear deck, is this an M4 or and M4A3? I agree with Tony S that the tracks look mud-encrusted, and it is practically impossible to overdo the mud and crud that accumulates on AFV running gear. What has happened to the gunshield, though? All the best, John.
I am not a specialist so I can’t tell if it’s a M4 or a M4A3.
What do you mean about the gunshield?
Thanks everyone. I really appreciate all your comments and suggestions 🙂
A very nice job there StuG. Well done. 25/28mm I presume? I liked your Sherman too! Cheers and good gaming. Rod Robertson.
Thanks. It’s in 28mm for Bolt Action game.
Like the addition of the foliage. Looks quite realistic.
Thanks. The only thing is that the foliage was all in the same light green color. So I took my brush and tried to color leaves with burnt umber, dark green, light green and olive. And after that, I took all the package of foliage and did the same thing all at once. So next time, my leaves will already have different color variation.
I think it looks fantastic! You’re probably right that perhaps there’s a bit too much rust, but unless you look closely, it looks like lots of mud to me. And you can never have too much mud on tank tracks!
Ok next time, I will try to add lots of mud instead of rust 😉
When I made my 6mm African buildings a few years back, I believe that I used this Evergreen sheet for corrugated metal sheet roofing: https://evergreenscalemodels.com/collections/0401-0mm-opaque-white-polystyrene-corrugated-metal-siding/products/4526-040-x-040-opaque-white-polystyrene-corrugated-siding In this scale, I think it is a matter of creating the illusion of the corrugated sheeting, rather than actually making a scale representation of it. Here links to some pics of the buildings I made. Sorry that the photography doesn’t show the roof material better. http://irishserb.blogspot.com/2018/11/more-progress-on-modern-6mm-african.html http://irishserb.blogspot.com/2019/10/a-funny-thing-happened.html Here is a pic from one of my imagi-africa AARs, still not very helpful, but hopefully conveys some idea of the effect: The buildings were constructed from various sheet and strip styrene, solvent welded using a disposable syringe and fine tip to apply the solvent. A brush can be used as well. If you use a syringe, be sure to file down the tip, so that you don’t accidently inject yourself with solvent. Hope this might be of some help.
Thanks for the info. I really appreciate.
I use this style of Corrugated Card Rib, available at art shops. Either using black or brown and paint it with oily steel / metal and dry brush rust on.
Do you know if it’s small enough to use on a 6mm building?09/11/2022 at 23:33 in reply to: Searching for inspiration to make my own buildings #180033
Stugg for WW2 ruined buildings, no plans needed just some imagination. I use the “for sale” sign boards that estate agents use to make modern buildings. Also I base them on cheap cup coasters, I will get some photos to show the style.
What are cup coasters exactly? Sorry, my first language is french and I have never seen this world before.
I am really impressed by your buildings. I will keep the photos for inspiration. Thanks.09/11/2022 at 11:12 in reply to: Searching for inspiration to make my own buildings #180004
Lots of companies do WW2 buildings in a range of different scales. It won’t give you plans but browsing what’s out there should provide ideas. Off the top of my head, try Leven Miniatures, Battlescale, Pendraken, Tymeagain, Sarissa – that should get you started.
Thanks for the ideas. I will check that.
These are for 6mm, but of course can be scaled up and used as templates: https://www.ghqmodels.com/pages/modeling-guides-paper-buildings
Thanks for the link. I’m working in 6mm. This will be very helpful.
Stung sorry to hear your having a down period, glad to hear you are doing something about it. There are some good building plans over on Wargames Vault, https://www.wargamevault.com/product/109440/Secret-German-Base?src=hottest_filtered https://www.wargamevault.com/product/109050/Carentan?manufacturers_id=4957 The carentan is pay what you want. These are all by Matakishi Tea House. If you get stuck you can check them out on his excellent website. Have fun and may your dice roll favourably.
Thank you very much for your help. I really appreciate. If you also know of good Youtube videos that explain simple to build buildings, just let me know.
Where do I go to transform my 3mbs photos into a smaller format that could be added here? All the photos I take with my iPad are not under 3mbs.
Bizarre, I want to include photos but they always say they are too large and can’t download it. I always use my iPad and never had this issue before.
Do you know what should be the preferred dimensions for the photos?
Thanks everyone. You suggested to me that I play solo. Do you have tips to help me play solo and still have fun?
Just to agree with Willz, I’ve played some games. There are rule sets I like better but it’s not a bad set and we’ve had a lot of fun with it. You’ve got two sides in the box, I’d play some solo games. I don’t know about anybody else, but whilst I can read wargames rules, it’s only after I’ve tried playing a game that they come together and start making sense
You are like me. I need to play a few times to learn and understand all the rules.
I bought the band of brothers box set as I found it cheap in a shop in Lincoln, £40 unopened. I’ve build most of the miniatures but never played a game. I like the new starter set they have recently released.
One question for you. What kind of glue do you use to glue your Bolt Action miniatures? I have used Tamiya Extra Thin Cement but it’s not working.
Hi everyone. I am getting back at this hobby. My summer vacation sucks and I need a little project to focus on something positive because I am going downhill recently 🙁
I need more inspiration to create a World War II cloth terrain. What kind of tissue do you use, how to you create your terrain cloth, your roads, your buildings, your rivers, your hills and forests? If you can add a few photos, I will be very grateful.
Thanks for your help!07/06/2022 at 01:42 in reply to: How to completely remove acrylic paint from a metal miniature? #174188
How long do you keep your models in acetone?
Usually overnight, sometimes longer, scrub with a toothbrush, put them back in the jar if necessary. Like you, I’ve often had to use a toothpick for stubborn bits, I’m not sure, but the stubbornness seems to be dependant on how long the paint has been there. I’m not sure why you’re having such difficulty, you’re doing what I would.
Now my miniatures have been in 100% acetone for at least 55 hours. There is not much progress since.05/06/2022 at 14:30 in reply to: How to completely remove acrylic paint from a metal miniature? #174118
I’ve always used white spirits, white spirits alternatives or Paint remover from Wilko’s. Soak in chosen liquid for half hour minimum and brush well with a toothbrush. Guaranteed to work with a bit of effort and the right amount of patience. In a pinch nail polish remover can work. But can sometimes produce stringy leftover bits. Whatever happens don’t panic because an overnight bath in white spirits will tear anything off the model for sure. It might also melt glue joins. So keep an eye on that and let it dry thoroughly before washing with warm soap if you need to re paint or reassemble. Good luck
I use acetone, but I’m weird enough to like the smell of Detol, so I may change in future…
Finally, I think I will have to try another technique, maybe white spirit. A few weeks ago, I put some of my miniatures in a closed jar and added isopopylic alcohol. A lot of the paint disappeared after brushing my miniatures with a toothbrush but most of the black primer remained even after more than two weeks.
Yesterday, I tried a new technique and added some of my metal miniatures in a closed jar filled with 100% acetone. Twenty four hours later, most of the paint and the primer are still there. If I brush with a toothbrush, it removes a littble bit of the paint but not the primer. I have to use a toothpick to be able to remove the primer. And using a toothpick in the little cracks is very time consuming.
So acetone doesn’t work so far.
I use acetone, but I’m weird enough to like the smell of Detol, so I may change in future…
How long do you keep your models in acetone? It’s been twenty four hours and most of my paint and primer are still there even if I used 100% acetone.30/05/2022 at 23:49 in reply to: Creating a forum to replace a Facebook group. Is it possible? #173840
Would something like ‘GROUPS IO’ meet all your needs? Might be an easier path.
What is this exactly? Do you have a link?
As others have said, only when the Germans had air superiority, so it’s pretty much confined to early war and was going out of use completely by mid war, but it dies add an eye catching splash of colour to otherwise dull panzer grey vehicles
By early war, you are talking about which year precisely?22/05/2022 at 11:46 in reply to: How to completely remove acrylic paint from a metal miniature? #173463
Thanks everyone for your help. Finally, someone told me to use isopropyl alcohol. I already had a bottle of 99% of isopropyl alcohol so I made a try. My models are still in the bottle and the paint is removing fast since I added them about eight hours ago. I will let them for maybe one complete day to see the results.
A good effort, but I think that the red needs to be brighter. As to when & where you would see these ….. I haven’t made a study of their use, but from my memory of looking at gazillions of photos, you tend to see them mostly on AFVs in the early to mid war period, particularly on the Russian front. Probably North Africa too, but I don’t take much notice of that theatre. Once the Allies get air superiority, carrying a massive, brightly coloured swastika on your tank becomes somewhat counter-productive. Hence I wouldn’t expect to see them displayed on vehicles such as your Sturmtiger. When you apply them, remember not to cover up vital areas such as turret hatches etc. Engine decks and turret bins were common places to drape them.
Thanks for the info. I have just brighten the red a little bit.
What do you mean exactly by AFV?
I have been careful to not apply it on turret hatches.
As far as I’m aware, this is much more of an early war practice for the Germans. By the time the Sturmtiger was produced, Luftwaffe air superiority was a long-vanished memory, and wearing such a prominent symbol would have been saying “Here’s your target” to marauding Typhoons, Thunderbolts or Sturmoviks.
Thanks for the info. I didn’t know that. I will try not to put to many flags on my german vehicules.
Finally, I have repainted the four of them and, for the first time, I have been able to add the tiny decals. The vehicules appear glossy but that’s because I have just added a layer of matt varnish and it’s not dry yet.17/05/2022 at 10:40 in reply to: What are your favorite WWII wargaming blogs, podcasts and Youtube channels? #173110
Sorry, bit puzzled – are you asking for our favourite blogs, podcasts and whatnot? Or recommendations for those who are interested mainly in WW2? My lists for those questions are quite different, but the ones who make both are (although it is very possible I have missed a couple out inadvertently). There are lots of other ones I really like (e.g. Polemarch, Wargaming for Grown Ups, Wargames Miscellany and Battle Game of the Month) but they don’t cover WW2 all that much, or at all. I listen to Gods Own Scale and Henry Hyde’s podcasts regularly but they aren’t WW2 focused. I listen to other podcasts from time-to-time but I don’t have time to listen to them regularly. Anyway, recommended blogs for WW2 stuff: This. Plus this thread on TMP for Mark 1s stuff. The Games We Play. Shaun’s blog. Steve Jones’ blog. Just Jack’s Blogs (you have to follow the links to get to all the WW2 stuff, it tends to be scattered over several themed blogs). Wargaming Addict. Battlefields & Warriors
Thanks for your recommandations.
Sorry, I was not precise enough. I only wanted WWII related blogs, podcasts and Youtube channels. I changed my title and description.
I once took a one week technical course on colour for work. Not quite as boring as it sounds (I actually rather enjoyed it) but one could sum it up as “matching colours is fantastically difficult”. The first thing is that your photo in my screen looks quite fine to me. But obviously it looks somewhat different to you. Have a look at it under the type of lights you game under. Might help? Personally, I’d slop on a wash, maybe brown, probably black. It would help pick out all those gorgeous GHQ details, as well as darken the camo up a bit. By that time of the war, German colours weren’t very consistent between batches or factories. That may make things more palatable to you?
Tony, thanks for the tip about using a black wash. I have just done that on my model and it looks way better. I can see so much more details. It’s not dry yet but when it will be, I will give another two layers of matt varnish.
Very nicely done Stug! The star looks like a decal to me.
Thanks. A few weeks ago, I have ordered 6mm decals for the german and americans but after destroying a few, I decided to they were too small and that I wont use any. I think I will use the same technique with the germans.
Cool looking model.
Thank you. It’s not completely accurate because I should add a red star on each side of the tail and two red stars under the planes but I will let it like it is. With the lighter color under the plane, I think it will be more visible that it was painted by hand.
You mean the rounds sticks or the popsicle kind?
As somebody who has had to do a bit of walling, remember the stones aren’t normally as big as a vehicle wheel For scale, think of them as averaging about the size of a head of a figure at that scale But seriously it looks good. Go for it
Thanks for the info. Yes you are right. Next time, I should be more cautious about the size of the stones. It was just a test so I wont use this piece of wall finally.
Very good! The coulour of stones may depend on the area. In some places (as where I live) you could have stones of slightly different colours, some may be blue-ish, others red-ish, or almost yellow… It would not do good to exaggerate this, but some slight shades can help.
Thanks. Next time, I will add more color variation. I was thinking about adding also a bit of green to make it looks like mosses were growing between and on the stones.
Look up deep cut studio. I have a couple I bought from meeplemart in Toronto. Their stock is hit or miss but you could order from the manufacturer. You can also get different materials, including fabric.
Thanks for the link but I think I will make my own cloth.
I tart up flannel bedsheets with rattle cans and a light sprinkle of fine flock (sealed w/pva). A couple tables/examples*: I lay on roads (weedblock+caulk) for those 15mm games but plan to just sprinkle on ballast for the planned 6mm tables – similar to the paths/sunken roads in the photos. Specific areas are easy to delineate with groundcover/ballast.
I Want to build a cloth similar to yours because it’s simple and I really like how it looks.
1. What kind of flannel bedsheets did you use? Is it possible to show me some pictures or if you can find a link on amazon it would be great.
2. Do you have other photos of your cloth for inspiration?
Thanks for your help!
I have checked the two websites (tinywargames and geekvilains) and I can’t find one that fit what I want. I want a cloth with no road, rivers or villages printed. I just want a cloth with different color variations (green, brown) so I can use it for all my games and add my rivers and roads on top.
Your test looks pretty good. Assuming 1/285 scale, a three foot wall would be about .126″ or about 1/8″ tall, 6 foot is twice that, eight foot would be .336″. Thickness could be anything from about ten inches up to a couple of feet, or more. A ten inch thick wall would be under 1/16″ in scale and really hard to work with.
I might base them on strips of .03 or .04 inch sheet styrene plastic maybe 1/4 to 3/8 wide, sanding the edges of the plastic to blend into the base terrain. I would probably give the foam a coating of either an acrylic paste or matte medium to make it a little more resistent to damage;
The wall sections could be coated on the bottom with matte medium and then superglued to the bases, or glued with matte medium or white or tacky glue.
A problem with the foam walls is that they are very light weight, so can easily be diplaced with a light touch. I’d be looking for ways to add some weight to the sections, though at this scale, there isn’t a lot that can be done. Resin can be impregnated with metal powder, bases could be made of brass strips, etc.
Wow thanks for all the info. I am posting a new picture of my wall once cut to give an idea of its height compared to some of my vehicules.
I need to find some materials to create a base and also a way to add some weight to this base because, like you said, it’s very light. The base should be thin and add some weight. Maybe I could glue some dried clay on top of the base (see one of my earlier thread about using real soil to create terrain).
We don’t see as many color variation in the bricks as the photos I posted before because I used too many paint while drybrushing. So I shoul repaint my wall again because of my mistake. I also need to do the other side but first, lets find a proper base to glue my wall.
Thanks everyone for all the links and tips. I will check all of them but I think I will go with a clear rod.
Finally, after adding putty and two layers of black primer, we can’t see which of my aircrafts have been screwed 😉
I have little touch-ups to do because the paint on the edges of the wings is disappearing. I didn’t want to buy decals so I decided to paint the red star and I must say that from a few inches away, we can’t really tell it was painted.
Here is a picture of my russian Yak completed. I tried to match my painting with the picture below.
Far easier to buy a ready printed one(s).
Do you know of any companies that sell realistic cloth to use in my WWII wargames?
I want to see more WWII cloths for inspiration 🙂
Why would you be blocked?
Because it’s kind of a self-promotion for my group outside of this forum.
Finally, I have deleted my Facebook group and my Facebook account. I had three warnings just yesterday for petty things so adios Facebook.
Is it possible to delete this thread? Thanks for your help.
Anyone else interested in joining us?
6mm WW2 is one of my things. Saves space.
That’s exactly one of the reason I went with 6mm. It saves space, is less expensive and it will allow me to create bigger battles and terrains.
Why not join my group? The group is growing fast.
Thank you very much. I have put the link in the first post of this thread. I hope everything is ok.