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Thanks everyone. You suggested to me that I play solo. Do you have tips to help me play solo and still have fun?
Just to agree with Willz, I’ve played some games. There are rule sets I like better but it’s not a bad set and we’ve had a lot of fun with it. You’ve got two sides in the box, I’d play some solo games. I don’t know about anybody else, but whilst I can read wargames rules, it’s only after I’ve tried playing a game that they come together and start making sense
You are like me. I need to play a few times to learn and understand all the rules.
I bought the band of brothers box set as I found it cheap in a shop in Lincoln, £40 unopened. I’ve build most of the miniatures but never played a game. I like the new starter set they have recently released.
One question for you. What kind of glue do you use to glue your Bolt Action miniatures? I have used Tamiya Extra Thin Cement but it’s not working.
I’ve always used white spirits, white spirits alternatives or Paint remover from Wilko’s. Soak in chosen liquid for half hour minimum and brush well with a toothbrush. Guaranteed to work with a bit of effort and the right amount of patience. In a pinch nail polish remover can work. But can sometimes produce stringy leftover bits. Whatever happens don’t panic because an overnight bath in white spirits will tear anything off the model for sure. It might also melt glue joins. So keep an eye on that and let it dry thoroughly before washing with warm soap if you need to re paint or reassemble. Good luck
I use acetone, but I’m weird enough to like the smell of Detol, so I may change in future…
Finally, I think I will have to try another technique, maybe white spirit. A few weeks ago, I put some of my miniatures in a closed jar and added isopopylic alcohol. A lot of the paint disappeared after brushing my miniatures with a toothbrush but most of the black primer remained even after more than two weeks.
Yesterday, I tried a new technique and added some of my metal miniatures in a closed jar filled with 100% acetone. Twenty four hours later, most of the paint and the primer are still there. If I brush with a toothbrush, it removes a littble bit of the paint but not the primer. I have to use a toothpick to be able to remove the primer. And using a toothpick in the little cracks is very time consuming.
So acetone doesn’t work so far.
I use acetone, but I’m weird enough to like the smell of Detol, so I may change in future…
How long do you keep your models in acetone? It’s been twenty four hours and most of my paint and primer are still there even if I used 100% acetone.
Finally, I have repainted the four of them and, for the first time, I have been able to add the tiny decals. The vehicules appear glossy but that’s because I have just added a layer of matt varnish and it’s not dry yet.
Like this.
Ok I will try that next time. Thanks for the tip.
Lollipop sticks?
You mean the rounds sticks or the popsicle kind?
As somebody who has had to do a bit of walling, remember the stones aren’t normally as big as a vehicle wheel
For scale, think of them as averaging about the size of a head of a figure at that scale 
But seriously it looks good. Go for itThanks for the info. Yes you are right. Next time, I should be more cautious about the size of the stones. It was just a test so I wont use this piece of wall finally.
Very good! The coulour of stones may depend on the area. In some places (as where I live) you could have stones of slightly different colours, some may be blue-ish, others red-ish, or almost yellow… It would not do good to exaggerate this, but some slight shades can help.
Thanks. Next time, I will add more color variation. I was thinking about adding also a bit of green to make it looks like mosses were growing between and on the stones.
Look up deep cut studio. I have a couple I bought from meeplemart in Toronto. Their stock is hit or miss but you could order from the manufacturer. You can also get different materials, including fabric.
Thanks for the link but I think I will make my own cloth.
I tart up flannel bedsheets with rattle cans and a light sprinkle of fine flock (sealed w/pva). A couple tables/examples*:
I lay on roads (weedblock+caulk) for those 15mm games but plan to just sprinkle on ballast for the planned 6mm tables – similar to the paths/sunken roads in the photos. Specific areas are easy to delineate with groundcover/ballast.I Want to build a cloth similar to yours because it’s simple and I really like how it looks.
1. What kind of flannel bedsheets did you use? Is it possible to show me some pictures or if you can find a link on amazon it would be great.
2. Do you have other photos of your cloth for inspiration?
Thanks for your help!
Your test looks pretty good. Assuming 1/285 scale, a three foot wall would be about .126″ or about 1/8″ tall, 6 foot is twice that, eight foot would be .336″. Thickness could be anything from about ten inches up to a couple of feet, or more. A ten inch thick wall would be under 1/16″ in scale and really hard to work with.
I might base them on strips of .03 or .04 inch sheet styrene plastic maybe 1/4 to 3/8 wide, sanding the edges of the plastic to blend into the base terrain. I would probably give the foam a coating of either an acrylic paste or matte medium to make it a little more resistent to damage;
The wall sections could be coated on the bottom with matte medium and then superglued to the bases, or glued with matte medium or white or tacky glue.
A problem with the foam walls is that they are very light weight, so can easily be diplaced with a light touch. I’d be looking for ways to add some weight to the sections, though at this scale, there isn’t a lot that can be done. Resin can be impregnated with metal powder, bases could be made of brass strips, etc.
Wow thanks for all the info. I am posting a new picture of my wall once cut to give an idea of its height compared to some of my vehicules.
I need to find some materials to create a base and also a way to add some weight to this base because, like you said, it’s very light. The base should be thin and add some weight. Maybe I could glue some dried clay on top of the base (see one of my earlier thread about using real soil to create terrain).
We don’t see as many color variation in the bricks as the photos I posted before because I used too many paint while drybrushing. So I shoul repaint my wall again because of my mistake. I also need to do the other side but first, lets find a proper base to glue my wall.
Thanks everyone for all the links and tips. I will check all of them but I think I will go with a clear rod.
Finally, after adding putty and two layers of black primer, we can’t see which of my aircrafts have been screwed 😉
I have little touch-ups to do because the paint on the edges of the wings is disappearing. I didn’t want to buy decals so I decided to paint the red star and I must say that from a few inches away, we can’t really tell it was painted.
Here is a picture of my russian Yak completed. I tried to match my painting with the picture below.
Far easier to buy a ready printed one(s).
Do you know of any companies that sell realistic cloth to use in my WWII wargames?
