Forum Replies Created
Seems to work. Does it do more options or just yes and no?
Trying to define genres/periods is a nightmare though! When I was compiling my Directory of 28mm manufacturers this was the hardest part. I eventually settled on a few fairly broad periods, as can be seen here…..
That is a great looking game! The photo with Jones and the prisoner should really be captioned “they don’t like it up ’em!”, though!
Who makes the Home Guard figures? Are they the ‘official’ Warlord ones?
The old tractor is brilliant, as well!
I would like more Italians in European uniform. Even more riflemen poses as it was a very rifle-heavy army. Also some support weapons, mortars and stuff!
Might be worth roughening the bottom of the figures’ bases with a bit of sandpaper. It would give the glue something to ‘key’ into. Plastic tends to be a lot smoother than metal.
Not that I have tried it, mind…….
Those are lovely! The big bases work really well.
Excellent news! I really like the Dark Age figures I have.
Looks like I will have to edit my review……!
Had a quick search and have found more details.
The action took place in April 1813 at the pass of Biar. Near a place called Castalla, I think?
28mm – Dark Ages, Napoleonic, WW2
6mm – Ancient Romans, Dark Ages, Napoleonic, WW1
I have to agree about the Sharpe books. I had never heard of them until I chanced on two or three in a bookshop many years ago. I think they were the only ones published at that time!
I thoroughly enjoyed them, although I found the later ones a bit too formulaic. He should have stopped with the Waterloo book, I think.
I never got into the TV series. They changed the stories too much, they didn’t have the budget for battle scenes, and I thought Sean Bean woefully mis-cast! Good job I am not a TV producer because plenty of people seemed to like ’em!
I’ve always thought it was a bit odd.
Yes, their Grenadier battalions fulfilled the same battlefield role. But the idea of a special body of troops to provide personal protection for the sovereign was fairly universal everywhere else. In one form or another!
Similar to what others have said.
Kid in the 70s. Played with Airfix soldiers and built Airfix kits like most other kids of the time. Always loads of old war films on telly to re-enact!
Went with a couple of mates to a big demo game put on by the local club in a church hall in the town. Saw rules! And dice!
These days I enjoy the collecting aspect just as much as actually playing.
My usual answer to this kind of question is: When I was a kid I liked playing with toy cars and toy soldiers. Now I am grown up I play with real cars, but playing with real soldiers is not quite the same thing!
Oh. And Grizzly? I’m first in line for your next game, mate…….
That is how an AAR should be done! Excellent!
About your Viking nomenclature dilemma……I find ‘Northmen’ is suitably vague and has period flavour.
My paints are about 60% Vallejo, 30% Decoart craft acrylics, and 10% other odds and ends.
I find the Vallejo paints are very good, with only the occasional dodgy pot! The Decoart stuff is much cheaper but still does the job, especially for larger areas. It is also stocked by quite a lot of art shops and in Hobbycraft, so is easier to get hold of.
My 6mm Austrian Cheveauxlegers all wear green as well. As you say, it helps to distinguish them on the table from all the cavalry wearing white.
Also, I painted up a couple of regiments before doing a lot of research and didn’t know which regiments wore white and which wore green!
As Mark has said, nobody really knows! Your best bet is to do either what you think looks best or most probable.
I have done a couple of Marion legions and have done all the tunics white, a different colour shield for each legion, and a different design on the shield for each cohort. It may not be historically accurate but nobody can prove it isn’t. And they look like Romans to me!
Yes! I focus ruthlessly on the job in h…….ooh cake!…..
Err, where was I? Yes. I do everything in either 6mm or 28mm. Or both.
I tend to do large armies in 6mm for big battles, and 28’s for big skirmishes. If I see some nice 28’s I often get a few even if I have no immediate use for them!11/09/2014 at 19:26 in reply to: Documentary about Napoleons invasion of Russia on TV tonight #8002
If I can prise the remote out of SWMBO’s hand I’ll have a look. Cheers!11/09/2014 at 07:42 in reply to: Rules that offer historically accurate movement rates – are there any? #7927
I am a big fan of diaries, memoirs, letters etc written by people who actually took part in the Napoleonic Wars. One of the things that really stands out is the massive unpredictability in movement. This can be due to terrain, enemy action, orders getting delayed or misinterpreted, getting lost or going the wrong way, or for reasons unknown.
As Connard says, this needs to be abstracted.
I have come to the conclusion that throwing a dice for movement is actually a good idea. It certainly makes for an interesting game because you cannot predict how long it will take troops to get somewhere. Both sides racing to occupy that village? With variable move rates, even if you are further away it is still worth giving it a go!
I have found average dice very useful for this. The spread of results is enough to simulate the uncertainty without being so wide that it gets frustrating!
The question of ammunition expenditure verses casualties caused is interesting.
Sir Richard Henegan was Ordnance Commissary in the Peninsula. In his memoirs he notes the ammunition used at Vittoria and complains of the amount of waste: “the almost incredible disproportion that exists between the number of shots fired, and the casualties they occasion”.
He calculates: “each infantry soldier, on entering the field, had sixty rounds of ball cartridges in his cartouch box, making a total of three million rounds.” In addition, during the engagement, “one million, three hundred and fifty thousand rounds of ball cartridges were issued by the Field Train”. Then there is the artillery “which, upon the average, fired, on that day, seventy-three rounds of shot and shell each, making a total of six thousand eight hundred and seventy rounds.” However, “the French lost in killed and wounded eight thousand out of ninety thousand combatants”.
“At every battle in the Peninsula, except Barossa, the author remarked the same undue expenditure of ammunition, in relation to the small extent of damage done; and, from whatever cause this immense waste of powder and shot may have proceeded……it is a subject well worthy the attention of commanding officers of regiments.”
Maybe wargames need a mechanism which deems troops to be firing at an empty space!
I think TWW has made an excellent start, ‘cos it is difficult to get a new thing off the ground!
It has been given a boost by having a lot of recognisable ‘names’ who are always worth reading.
A show calendar sounds like a great idea. Would it be a ‘wiki’ type thing where anyone can add one?
That looks good! I’m tempted to make the trip up to Leeds. I visited the Armouries a few years ago – what a great place for a wargames show!
I think that joke could be the wargamers’ equivalent of the Masons’ handshake……
I think the forums ‘list’ page showing the time of the last post is OK at the moment. It could become a bit clunky if many more boards are added, though.
A frontpage type of thing with the latest ‘X’ number of posts would be handy!
I can see Bandit’s case, but I still hold to the “More boards. Lovely” point of view!
I may have a look at Through The Mud And The Blood anyway…..
Very nice work! I really like the mail-and-surcoat look.
I am using 6mm figures, but have no problem adapting rules intended for other sizes!
All the First World War rules I’ve seen appear to be either one figure equals one man or each stand represents a company or battalion or other large-ish formation.
I was wondering about using Crossfire. Has anyone tried it for WW1?